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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Have searched forum posts but answer not found. I have a 2000 Camry getting painted, (clear peeling) wanted something added to car. I decided to put a stock OE spoiler with led. Found one from a 97 camry got it off same color (led didnt work repaired it). So it has 4 10mm and harness, it also had 2 square clips. I know I can easily drill and bolt the 10mm. The question is do I need to cut square for the square clips? If I remove the square clip the spoiler has a hose barb plastic tube. By the way I have everything else, silicone to seal water 3M tape and touch up paint to prevent rust. Any one ever install a stock spoiler on a non stock of this generation?

Thanks any help appreciated.
 

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I have not, but on a recent trip to the junk yard I saw some stock spoilers and want to do the same thing. was looking at them and figured I could attach it fine but not sure about the wiring(can I get the light to work)....does a non spoiler car have the hooks up already available etc. I am interested in this subject too so interested if anyone has any input. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not, but on a recent trip to the junk yard I saw some stock spoilers and want to do the same thing. was looking at them and figured I could attach it fine but not sure about the wiring(can I get the light to work)....does a non spoiler car have the hooks up already available etc. I am interested in this subject too so interested if anyone has any input. Thanks!
That's where I was, I pulled the whole harness wire, followed to the connection to the rear deck brake light wires right up. If not worst case scenario I was looking at would be splice the to any brake wire. Well now I'm wondering If I can cut the tube in picture off use 4 10 mm and 3m tape base. I have seen other wings both aftermarket and OE with just 2 bolts on other brand cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anybody on the install?:frown: DLW as far as wiring it wires to the third brake light. If you don't want to cut splice or missing connector harness use quick splice connectors. Spoiler light only has 2 wires positive and negative.
 

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For install, ideally you'd want to use a template that would be supplied with a new spoiler - that's how OEM spoilers are installed on a Camry if you were buying it new and adding that option. Finding a template for a 2000 Camry is not gonna be easy.

The 4 bolts will hold the spoiler just fine - it's not like you're pushing hundreds of points of down force through there. Besides, the glue alone offers a LOT of support. I believe the square cutouts are there to aid with alignment more than provide support. If you really don't want to deal with it, just make sure you align all the bolts before tightening everything.

As for wiring, factory wiring runs the harness to the 3rd brake light inside the car and plugs into the existing harness replacing the 3rd brake bulb socket. An interior color flat cover then covers the hole in lieu of the 3rd brake light w/ housing you'd be removing. In your case, I'm assuming you're missing the said cover and will be keeping the 3rd light in addition to the spoiler light. You have two options in this case:
-Keep both lights. Looks kinda weird if you ask me, but it's a matter of personal taste
-Disable the stock light. You'll have to replace the brake light breakage sensor if you do this (blue box on D side in the trunk behind covering), or you'll have the idiot light on every time you hit the brakes. The sensor relies on detecting bulb resistance, and since the spoiler LED bulbs offer much less resistance, the sensor thinks your light is out. There was a different sensor for cars with spoilers that accounted for this.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I pulled the Lamp failure sensor of donor car. It is according to other threads and the one I pulled TOYOTA LAMP FAILURE 004SP-32970 (27Wx2, 8WX4) YAZAKI I checked for damage when pulled, board looks fine no corrosion or burn marks. However dash light comes on when braking. What are the chances the brake light box is bad. Is there something else I'm missing? BTW no problems with old light sensor box, only when plugging in spoiler light which is a given.

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LEDs can cause problems for the bad bulb sensor boxes. Did you keep the old high-mount brake light wired up?... Or replace it with the spoiler lighting? If the old incandescent brake light isn't wired up, that's most likely the problem.
 

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LEDs can cause problems for the bad bulb sensor boxes. Did you keep the old high-mount brake light wired up?... Or replace it with the spoiler lighting? If the old incandescent brake light isn't wired up, that's most likely the problem.
Come to think about it, I've seen cars (not just Camry) who has a factory OEM spoiler on with their high-mount brake light still wired up - I assume it was dealer add on. Maybe they just got to keep it like that if it hasn't come from factory?
 

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Come to think about it, I've seen cars (not just Camry) who has a factory OEM spoiler on with their high-mount brake light still wired up - I assume it was dealer add on. Maybe they just got to keep it like that if it hasn't come from factory?
Yep. Spoilers were a dealer-installed option, and every one I've ever seen still had the standard high-mount brake light still wired up and working.
 
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OP, at this point, it is possible that the idiot light sensor you've got is defective. They do fail from time to time.

There's a chance that one of your bulbs is about to give out and has lower resistance, and it may be on the threshold of light activation, which would explain why your previous sensor worked fine.

There's a diagnostic procedure in the factory manual, and you can follow that to determine whether the circuit works correctly. Or measure the resistance of all the brake bulbs to see if there are any outliers..

Be prepared to diagnose and replace the sensor though.

Yep. Spoilers were a dealer-installed option, and every one I've ever seen still had the standard high-mount brake light still wired up and working.
That's only because the dealers are lazy or cheap. To make it look totally factory all you need is the factory available 3rd brake delete cover and the different idiot light sensor. Alas, many dealers skipped installing these...
 

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Yep. Spoilers were a dealer-installed option, and every one I've ever seen still had the standard high-mount brake light still wired up and working.
This I assume was more applicable for the Gen4? My Gen5 SE came from factory with the spoiler, but it is an SE trim though as to the Gen4 never had a SE trim and spoilers were not standard.
 

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This I assume was more applicable for the Gen4? My Gen5 SE came from factory with the spoiler, but it is an SE trim though as to the Gen4 never had a SE trim and spoilers were not standard.
Sorry. I was thinking Gen3 when I wrote that. Gen4's might've been different.
 

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Sorry. I was thinking Gen3 when I wrote that. Gen4's might've been different.
Oh no lol no worry.

I know the SE trim Gen3 came with spoilers...but not factory install? I know Gen4's doesn't come with the spoiler factory (At lease I never seen them). SE trim Gen5 came with spoilers AFAIK
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OP, at this point, it is possible that the idiot light sensor you've got is defective. They do fail from time to time.

There's a chance that one of your bulbs is about to give out and has lower resistance, and it may be on the threshold of light activation, which would explain why your previous sensor worked fine.

There's a diagnostic procedure in the factory manual, and you can follow that to determine whether the circuit works correctly. Or measure the resistance of all the brake bulbs to see if there are any outliers..

Be prepared to diagnose and replace the sensor though.



That's only because the dealers are lazy or cheap. To make it look totally factory all you need is the factory available 3rd brake delete cover and the different idiot light sensor. Alas, many dealers skipped installing these...
Yeah I thought it may be extra sensitive on the bulb failure. My 3Rd brake light wire is red and white with black, wondering if Toyota switched harness sensor connections on 00-01 as the trunk lI'd stype is different . As far as wiring the light I pulled the entire factory spoiler harness that's routed through the trunk liner and connects to (was connected when pulled) 3rd high mount deck brake light stock connector. I will try checking resistance for bad bulbs, off the bat there are 2 that look burnt on glass but still light up. Will replace and see how it goes. I'm not sweating the lamp sensor can pick and pull one for a $1 it's just a matter of finding the same model.

Thank you all will report back....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So still looking for the specific Lamp failure box. I have noticed that there is something to the numbers listed on boxes ex. 97 Camry spoiler 27Wx2, 8WX4 ) my stock sensor box has an 18W number which is the 3rd brake light 921 bulb wattage also 27Wx4 thinking it's the 3157 http://www.bulbs.com/product/3157 27w when braking. I'm using my stock box now with 3rd brake light connector going to spoiler harness it's not setting off the sensor, what I did was buy a ceramic resistor to run as a load it's a 15w12ohm resistor. Anybody know anything on relation to the numbers of the resistor I posted as far as heat eg lower wattag lower ohms less heat?? I have used resistors before but just common ones to prevent blowing LEDs ex pre-package solder kits running in series. I'm curious about the resistor I'm using (was able to hold in palm of hand for 5 mins while active before getting hot. Didn't even melt plastic zip lock....... I know just testing) BTW a 921 bulb is 9ohms 18W

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I have a spare lamp failure box. Actually have one stock and one for spoiler

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Yep. Spoilers were a dealer-installed option, and every one I've ever seen still had the standard high-mount brake light still wired up and working.
This is an counter example.
 

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I see. I was thinking about this a while back and was debating whether it is aesthetically prudent to have two high mount brake lights. In the end it is a moot point b/c I could not find a color-matched trunk lid. But to anyone thinking about this, my view is that it is a lot easier and cleaner to replace the whole trunk lid, than to find template, drill holes and apply sealant. The whole thing is about $60 in PnP if you are lucky to find a matching one. So it could be cheaper as well.
 

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What color cover do you need? I have an oak and grey one i think. I also have 2 replacement light failure assemblies for the spoiler

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