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2010 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #1
Help! I am changing the timing belt on our 2003 Highlander 1MZ-FE V6 and was taking pictures along the way as so many of you recommend, but forgot when I took off the camshaft sprockets. Problem is that one side of the sprockets has a flange and the Haynes manual says the flange side goes on the outside (away from the engine), but when I tried to do that, the sprocket won't catch the pin on the camshaft and the sprocket seems to rub on the metal rear timing belt cover.

I have been using a three-part YouTube video by Schrodingers Box and noticed he only took off the front (bank 2) cam sprocket. When he shows the rear (bank 1) sprocket, the flange is on the outside, but he installed the sprocket on bank 2 with the flange to the inside! He was working on a Sienna and the video is for a 1997-2010 Sienna, Camry and Highlander and the timing belt tensioner was a significantly different design so I doubt it was a 1MZ-FE engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The two pulleys go on differently. Rear has the flange point away from the engine and the front has the flange towards the engine. The two flanges on opposite sides act as guardrails to keep the timing belt from walking off either side. They are alignment features.

P1050138.JPG


PS - Man... This is the first time I've posted since the site upgrade. Boy does it suck.
 

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2010 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #3
The two pulleys go on differently. Rear has the flange point away from the engine and the front has the flange towards the engine. The two flanges on opposite sides act as guardrails to keep the timing belt from walking off either side. They are alignment features.

View attachment 287593

PS - Man... This is the first time I've posted since the site upgrade. Boy does it suck.
Oveur Engineer, thanks so much for posting your photo! I looked at your response yesterday, but my computer wouldn't show the photo. Please don't think I didn't believe you, but I did subscribe to TIS for the first time last night and saw a drawing exactly as you described. Besides, I wanted to get some other documents for other projects.

So based on what you said, I went and turned the bank 1 sprocket around and it DID go on and didn't contact the rear cover. I was just too lazy to reach way back there to get it on correctly.

Again, thank you.
 

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Glad to help and good luck with the rest of the job. I know it's too late now, but just for reference in case there's a next time... If you're just doing a timing belt, you don't have to remove either camshaft pulley. You can leave both pulleys in place. It was designed so there's enough slack elsewhere.

So, did your new belt come with inked on timing marks? Makes it easier to get the new belt on with everything timed properly.
 

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Glad to help and good luck with the rest of the job. I know it's too late now, but just for reference in case there's a next time... If you're just doing a timing belt, you don't have to remove either camshaft pulley. You can leave both pulleys in place. It was designed so there's enough slack elsewhere.

So, did your new belt come with inked on timing marks? Makes it easier to get the new belt on with everything timed properly.
Oveur Engineer, my OCD made me take off the sprockets so I could clean between the engine and rear TB cover. Your advice and photo really set my mind at ease.

Yes, I got the Aisin TKT026 kit which had the timing marks on the belt for the cam sprockets and the crank gear. After aligning the cams to the alignment marks, the crank mark wasn't very close to the mark on the back of the crank gear. I checked to make sure the arrows on the belt were pointed out (away from engine) and figured it should still be OK as long as the mark at the top of the crank gear pointed to the mark on the engine when I released the tensioner and it was. Put it back together and it started right up.

Thanks again to you and all the other experts here. I never would have attempted it without you all.
 
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