[sintox]

Hi all,

I am buying tomorrow a used set of aluminum rims but I'm not sure if I will have problem with the bore size (center hole).

I have a 1994 Camry LE, 4cyl., with only 14inch steel rims and want to have aluminum rims now (because I have one set of 15inch summer tires).

I saw a used set of Mazda 626 rim (15inch) forsale:
with the following specs (5x114.3mm / 12x1.5 Lugnut / 59.60mm Bore)

My Camry specs: (5x114.3mm / 12x1.5 Lugnut / 60.06mm Bore)

So the Mazda626 has a slightly smaller bore (59.60mm).

Will this smaller bore too tight for my camry's bore ? (I think slightly BIGGER would be fine, but NOT slightly SMALLER) ?

Thank you so much for your guidance.

 

[Frodo65]

Hi all,

I am buying tomorrow a used set of aluminum rims but I'm not sure if I will have problem with the bore size (center hole).

I have a 1994 Camry LE, 4cyl., with only 14inch steel rims and want to have aluminum rims now (because I have one set of 15inch summer tires).

I saw a used set of Mazda 626 rim (15inch) forsale:
with the following specs (5x114.3mm / 12x1.5 Lugnut / 59.60mm Bore)

My Camry specs: (5x114.3mm / 12x1.5 Lugnut / 60.06mm Bore)

So the Mazda626 has a slightly smaller bore (59.60mm).

Will this smaller bore too tight for my camry's bore ? (I think slightly BIGGER would be fine, but NOT slightly SMALLER) ?

Thank you so much for your guidance.

Actually, neither - the wheel is hub-centric, which requires the center of the wheel to fit over the hub with a good deal of precision. The too-small center won't allow the wheel to fit over the hub, and won't allow proper contact with rotor/drum surface. Too-large center will go 'sloppy' and cause vibration due to radial run-out from the wheel center not being at center of rotation.

The wheels could be machined - lot of trouble, though, and costly. Also kind of hard to get just right.

 

[sintox]

Thanks Frodo

I had hoped that I can get away with 0.46mm difference (I'm looking at a ruler now and 0.46mm is about the thickness of an adult's finger nail).

I have not bought the used set I saw yet. The hardest thing that I will have to do it to check if the Rims is in firm contact with the hub-surface where the 5 studs sticking out. (As you said, this is critical).

Other measurements (including if there's enough clearance for the caliper; and the width of the rims within reasonable range) can be measured by direct measurement without mounting.

Actually, neither - the wheel is hub-centric, which requires the center of the wheel to fit over the hub with a good deal of precision. The too-small center won't allow the wheel to fit over the hub, and won't allow proper contact with rotor/drum surface. Too-large center will go 'sloppy' and cause vibration due to radial run-out from the wheel center not being at center of rotation.

The wheels could be machined - lot of trouble, though, and costly. Also kind of hard to get just right.

 

[Tony the Tiger]

You can grind the wheel bores out yourself with a die grinder or something... As long as the wheels accept conical seat lugnuts, you can get the wheels to centre perfectly even though the wheel isn't hubcentric.

It's not ideal, but it will work... As you install the wheels onto the car, make sure you tighten up each lug with alternating pattern, and torque up the lug nuts slowly one by one... Start with 10 lbft on all 5 lugs, and then work your way up to factory specs (78lbft). This will ensure the wheel being fully centered.

 

[sintox]

Since I don't have a die grinder, I think the set that I saw for sale would be a good deal at all.

Thank you for your input Tony.