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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mine is leaking from here and I can't find a replacement o-ring (red arrow) that will fit this pipe. This is for an avalon but the size should be the same for the 1MZ-FE.

 

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You did not tell us what year your Avalon is. If I assume it is a 2002 (and you determine if it is not, is a 2002 model virtually identical to yours), then the Toyota part number for that o-ring is 96761-35031.
 

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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks JohnGD, I ran across that originally as well.

It seems rockauto only sells the grooved gaskets for the thermostat but not the o-ring for the inlet pipe. I purchased a new oem thermostat off of someone which included the grooved gasket that fits over the thermostat rim. It's a little larger than the inlet o-ring.

I'm going back to the dealer to see if they have it in stock. Amazon sells it for $6, dealer price is $3 so we'll see... [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Radiator-And-Water-Outlet-Ring/dp/B00IEJDD0S[/ame]



thanks for the help fellas
 

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イリジウム
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Ok, I picked out the wrong part then. My bad. Rockauto did list thermostat/"housing"/water outlet seal, and I picked the Dorman thermostat gasket along with the outlet o-ring (Fel-Pro).

Check out the Fel-Pro 35654 one I also listed, your local parts store should have one for $1.50 or so. The water outlet seal is a true o-ring w/o a groove, and your local Autozone should have one in stock (check their web page). This should be the o-ring that's slightly smaller than the stainless tube that connects to the lower hose.

 

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I also have a 2000 Avalon that is leaking from this general area. So where exactly is your coolant dripping down from? Is it toward the front of the motor, or more toward the back, dripping down onto the exhaust below the firewall? I cannot tell yet exactly where mine is leaking from yet, but my leak runs(not squirts) down the engine and onto the tranny bellhousing and then down onto the exhaust, and leaves a puddle underneath when idling.
 

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イリジウム
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For the V6, you use a thermostat with a jiggle valve, such as the Stant 48128 on rockauto.com. It comes with a gasket around the thermostat.

There is also a stainless steel pipe that connects to the thermostat housing. There's an o-ring on there (red arrow in the first picture above), use Fel-Pro 35654, about $0.50 on rockauto. (verify your exact application)

You might as well change both so you don't have to go back again later, for 50-cents.

STANT Part # 48128 OE Exact seal included; 180° Bottom By-Pass (2 13/64" x 57/64" x 1 53/64" x 1 7/64") w/Jiggle Pin $14.61




So to change out the 'Stat, you need the thermostat gasket, and the O-ring right? that's it. Or are there two O-rings?
 

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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #13
I emailed rockauto to correct their listing. They are usually responsive but we will see.

So I went to the dealer and showed the guy the part in the FSM picture. I just wanted to test whether he knew which part it was and he actually picked out the wrong part and got me the grooved thermostat gasket. After I gave him the part number, he managed to get the right part. The online price from the dealer was about $2.65 for the o-ring, but when I showed up at the dealer, they charged $6.70 for it.

Just FYI: The part is something that they just pull from their grab-box of o-rings. It does not come in any oem bag w/part # or anything like all the other parts.

Thanks guys, I'll post up some photos later so other folks don't get confused.
 

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Thanks! Good to know. The Felpro should also suffice right? So how common is it for these to "give out"? I mean what happens to them that they just give way like that? Is it the coolant? Is it defective manufacturing materials? Sorry but I am not a mechanic, but I'm not a dumb arse either an I want to gather as much info about these failings as I can to help me understand what's going on with these parts. I assume the same thing could happen to any O-ring in the cooling system or the Oil system for that matter correct? I know that it's probably a good idea to change out any and all O-rings one will encounter in any type of job such as a thermostat change while you are in there just to freshen things up a bit. I know some of these questions have some of you mechanics rolling your eyes.:D However please realize that not all of us out here possess your gift so please bear with those of us who are ignorant to the automotive arts. Now ask me anything computer related and I'll be able to hold my own. :rockon: My hope is that somebody with the exact same problem will one day read these threads and know what to do next as a result.
 

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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #15
They generally don't fail. Only when they are disturbed by maintenance like changing the thermostat that they do break when the stainless inlet pipe is removed. These o-rings over time stick or create a bond which additionally seals the system. Removing it would break this seal. I thought about exposing the seal to some chemicals that would swell the o-ring but for a part this cheap, there's no point to ghetto rigging anything if an emergency isn't needed.

I would give the o-rings 20+ years of life at a minimum if they are not disturbed. I have a 2000 Avy w/200k which has all original parts. My thermostat did not close all the way so I had it changed since I took out the air box to clean the MAF sensor. I figured I "might as well" because I got an OEM thermostat with gaskets for cheap and it was sitting on the shelf for some years.
 

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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Most of these seals and o-rings come from the same factory so the Fel-Pro o-rings should suffice. I ordered some fel-pro cam seals a while back, and even though there was a retail box, they came from the same factory the no-name brands you can get on ebay. I suspect this also from the o-ring I got today from Toyota since there was no oem packaging whatsoever.

When this o-ring gave out, I had minor leak enough to smell the coolant and see a very slow drip after running the car while parked. It wasn't burning but I have a pretty good nose. I don't think the coolant system is a high pressure system so you can still go some miles before your coolant tank runs low. The pipe sits pretty high up on the cooling system so it helps to deter excessive leaks.

It's not likely that the seal will completely give way. Let say if does, then you have about a mile or two before you see your temp gauge spike.

For general oil seals and coolant seals, if they leak, they are gradual leaks. My main crank seal has been leaking oil but it is nominal. I can do 5000 miles without seeing any appreciable drop in oil level. Suffice to say, you can ignore the slow leaks until you do bigger jobs like changing the timing belt.
 

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イリジウム
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$6.70 for an o-ring that Autozone will sell in a bag for $1.50 is ridiculous.

BTW, Fel-Pro o-rings should come in a Fel-Pro genuine plastic bag. Most likely with a paper card in there identifying the o-ring too. So I don't know why they're pulling out unpacked o-rings.

(To be fair, Rockauto's catalog actually lumped a few things under that category, but they did state so.)
 

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Like Avalonshoe mentioned, if it's disturbed, like when you take out the old thermostat, then that o-ring should be changed. If you're getting the thermostat with gasket, and the pipe o-ring, then just order from rockauto and use the 5% discount code: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/360084-rockauto-discount-code-10.html#post6728946

It's a good time to order Gates upper and lower radiator hoses (22306, 22309, about $11 or so each) too and replace them while the system's drained. The heart symbols show these are popular items on rockauto. Replace the rad cap too (Stant 10233 $4.88).


Thanks! Good to know. The Felpro should also suffice right? So how common is it for these to "give out"? I mean what happens to them that they just give way like that? Is it the coolant? Is it defective manufacturing materials? Sorry but I am not a mechanic, but I'm not a dumb arse either an I want to gather as much info about these failings as I can to help me understand what's going on with these parts. I assume the same thing could happen to any O-ring in the cooling system or the Oil system for that matter correct? I know that it's probably a good idea to change out any and all O-rings one will encounter in any type of job such as a thermostat change while you are in there just to freshen things up a bit. I know some of these questions have some of you mechanics rolling your eyes.:D However please realize that not all of us out here possess your gift so please bear with those of us who are ignorant to the automotive arts. Now ask me anything computer related and I'll be able to hold my own. :rockon: My hope is that somebody with the exact same problem will one day read these threads and know what to do next as a result.
 

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The online price from the dealer was about $2.65 for the o-ring, but when I showed up at the dealer, they charged $6.70 for it.
WHAT? The Toyota dealer list price for this part is $3.68. Many Toyota parts centers sell if for about $2.70, especially if they discount prices for vehicles having over 100,000 miles on them (many do). This dealer ripped you off. At least we are talking a very, very low cost item here. Wouldn't buy a $100 part for that dealer though.
 

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The Spirited Driver
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Discussion Starter #20
My hope is that somebody with the exact same problem will one day read these threads and know what to do next as a result.
This is for hypermikem, I said I would post photos for you. I replaced my 2000 avalon radiator but i have photos of the inlet pipe and the o-rings for the thermostat and the inlet pipe. You'll see the photos if you scroll down on the thread. Camrys and Avalons share this same part.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/155-2nd-generation-2000-2004/752346-pics-oem-new-old-radiator-thermostat-comparison-other-custom-mods.html#post6848682
 
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