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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. My name is Kamal and I recently moved to Beiruit Lebanon and shipped over a 2015 Toyota Corolla with 75k Miles. This country is a third world country in the Middle East and has limited to no auto diagnostic resources.
I have 2 DTC codes that I need assistance with symptoms = trouble going uphill

-( P0101 mass or volume air flow A circuit range/ Performance)
-(P0172 system too rich Bank 1)

Pictures of LIVE DATA scan tool below of engine at idle and at operating temp
I already tried replacing MAF sensor without any luck.
333290
 

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Your LTFT is way too negative at -37% meaning your ECU is leaning your trim because there’s too much fuel or restricted air going in.

Your ETC engine temp looks fine at 88 Celsius or 190 Fahrenheit.

First check your air filter if it’s old. Check anything restricting air from goin in.

Then check your MAF. You already have an MAF code so I’d suspect this. If it’s not reading the right amount of air then it’s going to mess up your LTFT. You could just clean it with an MAF cleaner - it has to say MAF cleaner.

Does your LTFT go up in value (less negative) if you rev the engine to 1,500 and 2,500 rpm? If so, the MAF may be the problem.

Or, you could also have leaky fuel injectors in addition to the MAF issue.

Do the cheapest fix first.


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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Your LTFT is way too negative at -37% meaning your ECU is leaning your trim because there’s too much fuel or restricted air going in.

Your ETC engine temp looks fine at 88 Celsius or 190 Fahrenheit.

First check your air filter if it’s old. Check anything restricting air from goin in.

Then check your MAF. You already have an MAF code so I’d suspect this. If it’s not reading the right amount of air then it’s going to mess up your LTFT. You could just clean it with an MAF cleaner - it has to say MAF cleaner.

Does your LTFT go up in value (less negative) if you rev the engine to 1,500 and 2,500 rpm? If so, the MAF may be the problem.

Or, you could also have leaky fuel injectors in addition to the MAF issue.

Do the cheapest fix first.


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In Neutral with engine at running temp and rpms at 2500 or LTFT still reads -35
ONLY at the moment I press the accelerator does it show -5 for only a mili second OR when I WOT under LOAD it shows -5 until the moment I release the accelerator pedal.
ALSO NOTE in neutral at WOT AND REDLINE banging the rev limiter reads -5 on LTFT
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Here is the video I uploaded
Sorry about my faulty mic
I also sprayed starting fluid on and near all the hoses vacuum lines manifold throttle body and sensors without any spike in RPM
 

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CVT or manual?

Your LTFT relies on both your O2 sensor and MAF sensor to determine how much air and fuel goes to your cylinder when engine is at normal operating temp (180-200 F).

For some reason you are getting too much fuel or not enough air in your combustion that’s why it’s reading rich and your LTFT is compensating -35% to lean your mixture.

Before you spend money on replacing the MAF sensor, O2 sensor, or fuel injectors, try a $7 can of MAF cleaner to spray on your unplugged MAF sensor. Best to remove it from the air filter housing and spray it.

Also, don’t bounce your RPM up the rev limiter. Just test your LTFT reading by just keeping the rpm steady at 1500 and 2500 to see any changes.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CVT or manual?

Your LTFT relies on both your O2 sensor and MAF sensor to determine how much air and fuel goes to your cylinder when engine is at normal operating temp (180-200 F).

For some reason you are getting too much fuel or not enough air in your combustion that’s why it’s reading rich and your LTFT is compensating -35% to lean your mixture.

Before you spend money on replacing the MAF sensor, O2 sensor, or fuel injectors, try a $7 can of MAF cleaner to spray on your unplugged MAF sensor. Best to remove it from the air filter housing and spray it.

Also, don’t bounce your RPM up the rev limiter. Just test your LTFT reading by just keeping the rpm steady at 1500 and 2500 to see any changes.


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Cleaned the sensor with the crc maf cleaner without any changes
2500 steady reads the same -35 result
I believe it’s a automatic because I can feel the engine shifting through what feels like gears
Can it be a bad fuel regulator ?
I also want to sincerely thank you for your help and support, it’s greatly appreciated
 

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Like Mercron said, did you check the air filter….? Did this problem occur right after you first drove the car after shipping?
you had the car 'shipped over'..do you have fresh gas in the tank ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I purchased the car from the auction
Car was involved in a front left collision prior to being repaired and shipped. The only time I ever drive the car is when it arrived here and I’ve already been through multiple tanks of fuel from different fueling stations.
——I just realized the air box on the car is wrong and from a earlier model Toyota Corolla and seems to be rigged along with the MAF sensor —-
I will take a photo and upload it shortly
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is definitely the wrong airbox and doesn’t belong on this year model Corolla and has been modified with silicone to somewhat fit
This must be the culprit ?
 

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This is definitely the wrong airbox and doesn’t belong on this year model Corolla and has been modified with silicone to somewhat fit
This must be the culprit ?
Here are pics of my 2014 L 6MT air filter box and MAF with part numbers.










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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
UPDATE
I replaced the air box with the correct model year and received the same codes
After wiggling the O2 sensor wire and applying pressure to all fuses in fuse box resulted in these codes and LIVE DATA
PLEASE HELP ME IM DESPERATE. I purchased a Toyota Corolla purposely and shipped this car overseas because of the excellent reliability reputation to avoid issues abroad and I’m now stumped and at a loss.
333652
 

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Please chime in to my above post as you are informative in your prior responses to my issue
What happened to the MAF and rich codes you got before?

You must’ve disturbed the O2 sensor circuit when you wiggled the wires. Make sure the cables are connected properly to the sensor. These P0031 & 37 codes has to do with the voltage of the heating element in the sensor. Try researching how this works.

Also, your STFT and LTFT numbers are still off the charts. There may still be an MAF sensor problem. I noticed that your CATTEMP readings are way too high as well given that you are seeing Celsius. It should be in the 600-800 F temp. This may have to do to with your O2 sensor cables.

Again, make sure that the cables to the O2 sensors are getting voltage and that they are connected.


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Did you check your air filter? Something your engine is either under-breathing or over-fuelling. Make sure you have no restrictions in the intake, if all is good there then maybe injectors are sticking open?

I would first clear codes for the O2 sensors and see if they come back. IF they do then something is wrong with the heater circuits on both sensors (unlikely they both went bad at the same time but possible). If you clear codes, check fuel trims again as they won't change as long as you have the CEL for the O2 sensors (car is running in open loop).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What happened to the MAF and rich codes you got before?

You must’ve disturbed the O2 sensor circuit when you wiggled the wires. Make sure the cables are connected properly to the sensor. These P0031 & 37 codes has to do with the voltage of the heating element in the sensor. Try researching how this works.

Also, your STFT and LTFT numbers are still off the charts. There may still be an MAF sensor problem. I noticed that your CATTEMP readings are way too high as well given that you are seeing Celsius. It should be in the 600-800 F temp. This may have to do to with your O2 sensor cables.

Again, make sure that the cables to the O2 sensors are getting voltage and that they are connected.


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I’ll check your above suggestions and report back with my findings .

With the engine OFF and ignition in the ON position the LTFT still reads -39. Is this an indicator the a/f sensor / o2 sensor is faulty ?
 

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I’ll check your above suggestions and report back with my findings .

With the engine OFF and ignition in the ON position the LTFT still reads -39. Is this an indicator the a/f sensor / o2 sensor is faulty ?
No, the long term fuel trim will stay at the previous value until it is re-learned by the ECU (which it won't do while you have O2 sensor codes), or until the memory is reset (I can't remember if clearing OBD codes will reset the memory on this. Disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes probably would if clearing codes doesn't).
 

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I’ll check your above suggestions and report back with my findings .

With the engine OFF and ignition in the ON position the LTFT still reads -39. Is this an indicator the a/f sensor / o2 sensor is faulty ?
That’s normal for the LTFT to keep previous reading with engine off and ignition on.

Clear all codes, check it they come back again, then check wiring first before replacing parts.

Your O2 sensor readings were fine in your original posting.


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