[visionist]

I've run into a bit of a problem. The bolt that connects the tensioner to the engine doesn't want to come out. It just seems to endlessly turn to the left without moving any further out of the hole. What can I do?
It is the bolt on the bottom right of this picture.

 

[hardtopte72]

I can almost guarantee it's moving. That bolt is like 9 inches long. You will do a lot of turning. This is why I said to just loosen it and then remove it in the DIY.

 

[visionist]

If that is the case then that really makes me feel a lot better. I would think it would be pretty hard to strip it.

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[visionist]

I can almost guarantee it's moving. That bolt is like 9 inches long. You will do a lot of turning. This is why I said to just loosen it and then remove it in the DIY.

Where is the DIY thread for this? I can't seem to find it.

 

[ajm2881]

link
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...lla-serpentine-belt-question.html#post3112625

 

[hardtopte72]

I wrote the DIY in your last post where you showed the broken bolt.

 

[invader]

I just saw the video in your "Where is the tensioner?" thread which I just checked out now... You were turning the tensioner mount bolt clockwise to tighten it, and it is most likely stripped in the aluminum engine cylinder head. You'll need to have it removed at a repair shop so that they can fix the stripped bolt bore with a helicoil, to be able to install the new tensioner... The old belt can simply be cut to remove it.
If the mount bolt doesn't get tighter as you rotate it clockwise all the way in, then the threads in the aluminum bore are stripped. It should normally be torqued to 51 ft-lbs.

 

[MasterTecInSTL]

Yes I completely agree with invader. After watching that video I think it's safe to conclude that the bolt is either broken or the threads are stripped. It needs to see a professional who can extract the broken bolt and/or helicoil the threads. There is no way that bolt would be able to be turned clockwise that much if this wasn't the case.

And what I'm referencing is between 0:50 and 0:60 in the video:

 

[hardtopte72]

X3. I just looked at it and cringed a bit. The biggest problem I see is the length and location of that bolt to be repaired. Having done several tensioners it is more likely the hole stripped than the bolt.

If there is any gap between the bolt and head at all you can try to shove a screwdriver or pry bar in the gap and loosen the bolt(lefty loosy righty tighty) and see if it comes out. The only with that is if you cut the belt that almost guarantees you can't drive the car. It may be best to check out a repair shop after all. But I wouldnt be surprised if they want to remove the engine to repair that.

 

[invader]

Yeah, they would cut the belt at repair shop to remove it... Then they'll be able to install the new belt once the new tensioner is installed, after the stripped bore is repaired with a HeliCoil insert. They should be able to remove it with engine jacked up a bit, as required to remove and install that bolt.

 

[visionist]

X3. I just looked at it and cringed a bit. The biggest problem I see is the length and location of that bolt to be repaired. Having done several tensioners it is more likely the hole stripped than the bolt.

If there is any gap between the bolt and head at all you can try to shove a screwdriver or pry bar in the gap and loosen the bolt(lefty loosy righty tighty) and see if it comes out. The only with that is if you cut the belt that almost guarantees you can't drive the car. It may be best to check out a repair shop after all. But I wouldnt be surprised if they want to remove the engine to repair that.

Any idea what something like that might cost... ?
I didn't over torque the bolt, it was like that when I bought the car.

 

[invader]

Any idea what something like that might cost... ?
I didn't over torque the bolt, it was like that when I bought the car.

I assumed it was already stripped, seeing you could turn it so easily, and from the previously broken tension release nut.
A good well experienced mechanic should be able to do it all in about an hour or two.

 

[invader]

Also, I see some oily crud buildup down around your crankshaft pulley. It may be leaking engine oil at the front main crankshaft oil seal. Mechanic could confirm the leak and easily remove crankshaft pulley to replace seal while he's in there... I did fix an oil leak at the crankshaft position sensor just in front of said crank seal, by adding a second larger O-ring in available groove and with RTV sealant.

If you have easier access to a GMC dealership, you can get the same front crankshaft main seal as listed for a Pontiac Vibe with 'LV6' (1ZZ-FE) engine for about $10.

 

[hardtopte72]

The thing you will notice is that there is like 4-5 inches of bolt before you hit any threads if I remember correct. That is where the difficulty comes from.

Take it down to an experienced technician and see what they can do. Hopefully it does only take an hour or so.

 

[Guest]

I am going to be doing this on my vibe.......does anyone know of a good DIY......I have seen one before. I know on mine i need to support the engine and loosen the motor mounts to access the bolt(s).....

 

[hardtopte72]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-generation-2003-2008/410009-where-tensioner.html

Last post

 

[Guest]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-generation-2003-2008/410009-where-tensioner.html

Last post

thanks.................anyone have any recommendation on the best part.........rockatuo has an AC delco? does the new part come with new bolts?

the writeup did not mention anti-seize..........should I put anti-seize on the bolt since it is going into an aluminum block?

 

[invader]

Dayco's # 89356 is very good. I have about 125,000 miles on mine.
Tensioner and pulley assembly does not come with the mount bolt. Although I didn't use anything on it, a tad of anti-seize compound would help prevent oxidation buildup on both the bolt and on the aluminum threads, although its lubrication would make it easier to overtorque the bolt.

 

[hardtopte72]

I would not use anti seize. The repair procedure doesn't call for it and on a bolt like that it doesn't seem like a good idea. Just make sure you loosen it and don't tighten when removing. I have done like 10 and we did well over 100 at my dealer and never used antiSeize or stripped a bolt.

 

[visionist]

My friend who is a mechanic currently has the car. He just sent me this message:

heres the situation..the bolt is not stripped out its broke off(past flush
)it may be able to be removed . ..not much room...I have a 90 degree drill at work, I may be able to drill it out and then us an easy out to extract it. may . .it looks like someone tried to change it because the bearing is noisey on the tensioner . I'll keep you posted.

I will give an update when he gives me my next update. I am hoping that maybe the bolt is just broken and the internal threads remain usable.