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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When I bought my truck the dealer told me that the previous owner used 5w-30 castor oil syn blend. I just changed my oil yesterday and was looking through the forum and couldnt find anyone else useing this type. Now nerves and posting if I need to change weight or go full synthetic (mobol 1) asap or what. 2007 58k 2.7l 2wd access cab 5 speed , put 5.5 liters in with filter believe it was a castol oil filter as well.
 

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Stupid is stupid does
2008 tundra
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5,554 Posts
you can use what ever oil you want tickman. Synth or regular Dino oil. This topic has been talked about many many times. :thumbsup:
 

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jpspartan09
08 Tacoma
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454 Posts
either go full synthetic (castrol syntec) or regular. CASTROL SYNTHETIC BLEND IS NOTHING MORE THAN REGULAR DINO OIL WITH 5% SYNTHETIC OIL MIXED IN. personally i recommend the castrol syntec 5w30. autozone just ran a sale on it too (5 quarts and a k&n oil filter for 28 bucks! saved almost 30 bucks!)
 

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Taco Lover
2007 Tacoma
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54 Posts
either go full synthetic (castrol syntec) or regular. CASTROL SYNTHETIC BLEND IS NOTHING MORE THAN REGULAR DINO OIL WITH 5% SYNTHETIC OIL MIXED IN. personally i recommend the castrol syntec 5w30. autozone just ran a sale on it too (5 quarts and a k&n oil filter for 28 bucks! saved almost 30 bucks!)
Is that sale still in effect? I'll be headed to autozone tomorrow...
 

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2009 Tacoma TRD Crew
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33 Posts
Is that sale still in effect? I'll be headed to autozone tomorrow...
I got in on this sale also and is a good deal. You save about $10.00 compared to Walmart's Mobile 1 Oil & Filter prices.

The sales guy at Autozone told me that the sale went through the whole month of April.

SOS
.
 

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08 Camry
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217 Posts
walmart sells Castrol Syntec for $23 for a 4 qt jug, 5w or 10w.

synthetic blends are a waste of money IMHO because the manufacturers will never tell you exactly what the ratio of synthetic to dino juice is in the oil, so you don't know what you're getting...

there has been some debate over Syntec though, as the govt changed the definition a few years back of what can be called synthetic oil. most of us think that synthetic means that the oil is not derived from petroleum products, but that is no longer the case. you can read more about this on the net at bobistheoilguy.com

my personal preference is Mobil 1 0w-30 or Valvoline 5w-30 both full synthetics in every sense of the word, coupled with a 10k oil change interval using a purolator oil filter changed at 5k.

Good Luck
 

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jpspartan09
08 Tacoma
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454 Posts
walmart sells Castrol Syntec for $23 for a 4 qt jug, 5w or 10w.

synthetic blends are a waste of money IMHO because the manufacturers will never tell you exactly what the ratio of synthetic to dino juice is in the oil, so you don't know what you're getting...

there has been some debate over Syntec though, as the govt changed the definition a few years back of what can be called synthetic oil. most of us think that synthetic means that the oil is not derived from petroleum products, but that is no longer the case. you can read more about this on the net at bobistheoilguy.com

my personal preference is Mobil 1 0w-30 or Valvoline 5w-30 both full synthetics in every sense of the word, coupled with a 10k oil change interval using a purolator oil filter changed at 5k.

Good Luck
I've been debating on doing the thole 2-3 filters before a complete oil change myself... tell me. how many miles do you have on your truck? and how would this affect sludge buildup?

*SORRY TO THREADJACK*
 

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GO KING'S GO!
05' Taco Pre-Runner
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2,250 Posts
walmart sells Castrol Syntec for $23 for a 4 qt jug, 5w or 10w.

synthetic blends are a waste of money IMHO because the manufacturers will never tell you exactly what the ratio of synthetic to dino juice is in the oil, so you don't know what you're getting...

there has been some debate over Syntec though, as the govt changed the definition a few years back of what can be called synthetic oil. most of us think that synthetic means that the oil is not derived from petroleum products, but that is no longer the case. you can read more about this on the net at bobistheoilguy.com

my personal preference is Mobil 1 0w-30 or Valvoline 5w-30 both full synthetics in every sense of the word, coupled with a 10k oil change interval using a purolator oil filter changed at 5k.

Good Luck

Bobistheoilguy.com is a awesome site. Those brands are good synthetics; however, I dig Redline, Amsoil, or Royal Purple. As for filters the Purolator makes a great over the counter. The Amsoil an K&N are my choices.

I've been debating on doing the thole 2-3 filters before a complete oil change myself... tell me. how many miles do you have on your truck? and how would this affect sludge buildup?

*SORRY TO THREADJACK*
I did this and I won't do it again. My mpg dropped, temp was higher, and the motor makes more noise. Call me preventive, but the 5k oil change that the manufacture says is fine by me.
 

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Native Oregonian
07 Tacoma DC LB TRD
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785 Posts
just started using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 here, its never done me wrong in any of my other vehicles.
 
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08 Camry
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217 Posts
changing the filter at half the oil change interval is something i learned from Amsoil. they recommend 1year/25k OCI with filters replaced at 6mo/12.5k. i just adopted this to my OCI. changing the filter IMO will increase the life of the oil as the combustion byproducts sitting in the filter have less of a chance of getting back out and affecting the oil's ph and other vitals. also, the addition of the extra 1/4 quart of new oil added to correct the oil level with the new filter will give the oil's TBN a slight boost to tide it over till the oil change.

as for sludge formation, i don't have any hard and fast facts. just my past experience with using synthetics in a 92 corolla which is now clocking close to 400k on the original engine, my sold Taco with 160k, and my sold 97 Acura CL pushing 200k; all of which were maintained with the 10k oil and 5k filter. i had occasion to inspect the valves, cams, lifters etc in the corolla when i replaced a leaking valve cover gasket at 200k, and that portion of the engine looked considerably cleaner than other engines i have seen at half it's mileage. there was very minimal sludge formation noted, and none of it was in the oil passages. that is my rationale for my OCI recommendations.

DKTACO mentioned that his engine was a bit noisier, ran hotter, and his MPG decreased. of these three i have only experienced a slight decrease in MPG, maybe 5%, and this stands to reason as the esters in the oil that maintain it's ability to go from a 0weight or 5weight when cold to a 30weight when hot will wear out as time and mileage progress. this of course is true of any multi viscosity oil, and you will obviously notice this more and more as the miles add up. so you may go from a 0W-30 to a 10W-40 at the end of 25k, if you leave your oil in there that long and do a Uniform Oil Analysis at 25k drain.

i have selected my intervals because i think the finite life of the oil addative and detergent packages are most likely exhausted around that time judging from what i have seen and read from others' UOA results of different oils. obvoiusly, to each his own...

on a side note, since true synthetics are not petroleum based (except for the addative packages) i feel good that i am not increasing our dependance on foreign oil by using synthetics (small as my contribution may be.)

God Bless
 

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Or just be a dumbass like me and buy Royal Purple for $7.99 a quart. LOL :headbang:
I hear ya on that dude. Been using Royal Purple since 5,000 miles at about $7.99/quart. Thinking about maybe using something different but everytime I go to buy oil, the purple bottle catches my attention again.
 

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GO KING'S GO!
05' Taco Pre-Runner
Joined
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2,250 Posts
changing the filter at half the oil change interval is something i learned from Amsoil. they recommend 1year/25k OCI with filters replaced at 6mo/12.5k. i just adopted this to my OCI. changing the filter IMO will increase the life of the oil as the combustion byproducts sitting in the filter have less of a chance of getting back out and affecting the oil's ph and other vitals. also, the addition of the extra 1/4 quart of new oil added to correct the oil level with the new filter will give the oil's TBN a slight boost to tide it over till the oil change.

as for sludge formation, i don't have any hard and fast facts. just my past experience with using synthetics in a 92 corolla which is now clocking close to 400k on the original engine, my sold Taco with 160k, and my sold 97 Acura CL pushing 200k; all of which were maintained with the 10k oil and 5k filter. i had occasion to inspect the valves, cams, lifters etc in the corolla when i replaced a leaking valve cover gasket at 200k, and that portion of the engine looked considerably cleaner than other engines i have seen at half it's mileage. there was very minimal sludge formation noted, and none of it was in the oil passages. that is my rationale for my OCI recommendations.

DKTACO mentioned that his engine was a bit noisier, ran hotter, and his MPG decreased. of these three i have only experienced a slight decrease in MPG, maybe 5%, and this stands to reason as the esters in the oil that maintain it's ability to go from a 0weight or 5weight when cold to a 30weight when hot will wear out as time and mileage progress. this of course is true of any multi viscosity oil, and you will obviously notice this more and more as the miles add up. so you may go from a 0W-30 to a 10W-40 at the end of 25k, if you leave your oil in there that long and do a Uniform Oil Analysis at 25k drain.

i have selected my intervals because i think the finite life of the oil addative and detergent packages are most likely exhausted around that time judging from what i have seen and read from others' UOA results of different oils. obvoiusly, to each his own...

on a side note, since true synthetics are not petroleum based (except for the addative packages) i feel good that i am not increasing our dependance on foreign oil by using synthetics (small as my contribution may be.)

God Bless
Very informative! Most of our oil does come from foreign oil, because we can't use our own damn resources per the Hippies, Congress, and Dear Leader! I have buddies who work at refineries and they get all the oil from everywhere which is then mixed and broke down per what it is needed for.

I hear ya on that dude. Been using Royal Purple since 5,000 miles at about $7.99/quart. Thinking about maybe using something different but everytime I go to buy oil, the purple bottle catches my attention again.
$7.99 a qt ain't bad. Redline and Amsoil is usually $9.99 and up!
 

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GO KING'S GO!
05' Taco Pre-Runner
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2,250 Posts
You are already getting screwed, why not make it hurt even more. :lol:
Says you? :gfy: You can't find it for any cheaper. I know that is it is top notch stuff and have done plenty of research. My motor and trans. thanks me! So who cares what people use. ;)
 

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Stupid is stupid does
2008 tundra
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5,554 Posts
the end.. sorry it seems every OIL question here ends like this.
 
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