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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone.

Probably going to replace my Cat eventually, but need to see which one to get. Got a P0420 code. Previous owner had it checked out and shop told him the Cat was bad. I replace the O2 downstream sensor with a denso one. with same code popping up. Car runs fine, just has a smelly exhaust.

I wanted to go with a walker, but Amazon doesn't do prime shipping for it to Hawaii. Only one I can do is the Bosal. Anyone had experience with this brand?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1080893&cc=1317493&jsn=456




I believe this part is for federal emissions for the Automatic Camry (v6). My Camry is not California emission.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY5D8W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Plus the seals

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...t_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER(x2) for exhaust manifolds

https://www.amazon.com/Bosal-256-28...e=UTF8&qid=1469315257&sr=1-1&keywords=256-287 (x1) to exhaust


Possible to do with mostly hand tools, 4 jacks, and a decent beaker bar?


Thank you!
 

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2016 Rav4
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might also want to use some pb blaster and a torch if necessary. hopefully, the po(s) dint weld anything together.
does the rubber on the hangers look ok? if so, put some spray lube on them to keep them supple. if not, might have to replace them too if they are dried out and break.
good you don't have to worry about cali specs.
haven't used bosal but haven't heard or seen anything bad about that brand that i can recollect.
you could also try rockauto.com and/or parts.olathetoyota.com too.
(hopefully you're using jackstands with those jacks) ;-)
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
might also want to use some pb blaster and a torch if necessary. hopefully, the po(s) dint weld anything together.
does the rubber on the hangers look ok? if so, put some spray lube on them to keep them supple. if not, might have to replace them too if they are dried out and break.
good you don't have to worry about cali specs.
haven't used bosal but haven't heard or seen anything bad about that brand that i can recollect.
you could also try rockauto.com and/or parts.olathetoyota.com too.
(hopefully you're using jackstands with those jacks) ;-)
tony
The entire cat system is original. Only thing aftermarket on the exhaust is the muffler, which was wielded on. Car has about 211K, owner had the cat been bad from at lease for a few years.

Shipping from Rockauto is kinda pricy. It's about $40-50 bucks. That toyota part site is very pricey.

174100A080

Priced at 1,456.59, shipping is 306.08 lol.



And yes, I got jackstands 4x and jacks lol.
 

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98 1MZ 98 5SE
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Does Rockauto.com ship to Hawaii? If so their prices are a little better but not sure with shipping.


I have a 98 4cyl and a 6cyl.


Just did the 4cyl with the Walker part last week. It went well. I have been under the car with flex pipe issues before with the 6cyl so familiar with it.


As far as the brand....not sure. I read reviews on amazon and steered away from some because people said some brands did not fit well. So, see if any reviews.


I just did it with 2 standard ramps on the front tires and chocks behinds the wheels. Go slow be safe. emergency brake etc. With jack stands I double up or use the 2 regular jacks in addition so if it goes wrong I don't get flattened into a pancake.


I went to car wash and sprayed underside of car and engine clean. Put it on front ramps. Chocks to back wheels. Double check parking brake. Cardboard underneath for padding and helps you slide easier. I used a wire brush to get thicker rust off. Used goggle as you will get stuff in your eyes when under a car. PB plaster the cat to resonator section bolts a few hours then wipe off. PB blaster the upstream bolts.


Start with the downstream section as its more floppy and moves as you try to un bolt(upper section is more stable since attached to engine) Take advantage of the stability of the hangers holding pipe more steady.


Used wrench for bolt head(not enough room for 2nd socket on mine, if yours has room 2nd socket would be easier) I used a small piece of galvanized pipe over the socket to make a longer socket handle as my breaker bar was too long. Loosen up but do not remove bolts yet so it holds the pipe and cat in place for when you work upstream.


For upstream bolts I used deep sockets and socket extension to get the socket back to a good movable space. Used the galvanized pipe for a breaker bar too.


Took upstream off first and then down stream. Soaked downstream bolts in PB blaster for awhile and re used them. re used upstream bolts.


In addition to new gaskets I also used permatex high temp gasket maker red 650 farinheight sealant as an outer ring to gaskets. Its messy so have some paper towels.


I put some vasaline on rubber piece that holds hanger and on the hanger itself. Put gasket and sealant on and started by sliding hanger into rubber holder. made some mess with sealant getting upper bolts aligned and put a nut on upper part then went downstream and put bolts on loose and then tightened everything up and put more sealant on joining edges and cleaned up mess.


Sealant says wait 24 hours. after 6 it felt solid and I started and drove car.


6cyl has to be harder because of 2 pipes-connections upstream compared to 1 with 4cyl but this the basic idea.


I thought once bolts loose I would have to pry and pull to get pipes apart but they just came apart and I live in rust area with 260,000 miles.


I did take a screwdriver and tried to remove as much rust as I could on inner pipe but in your area rust should not be a big issue.






Good luck!
 

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98 1MZ 98 5SE
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If the car runs fine and you are only replacing the cat because you have to pass emissions testing then look on the forum under 420 code. I believe there are some recent threads of how this code can go away with adding a O2 sensor extension for 5-10 bucks and the code goes away. It might be worth a try since if you already replace the downstream sensor you are already familiar with the area on car.
Go to first new post New 99 1MZ TB/ PO420?
 

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king, i'd like to echo something dlw sed...i too use the jacks front and rear centers in addition to the 4 jackstands.
never had a jackstand give way but my 2 trusty craftsman 1 1/2 ton jacks under it too, i know it's not going nowhere.
good luck. and i know you know this but sometimes i forget to use the 5% discount code. on that purchase it's about 70 bucks savings so worth pasting it in...
tony
 

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Weak upstream O2 or AF sensors can also give P0420, also exhaust leak. Its the difference between the upstream and downstream that says "cat efficiency" and a minor 5% drop red flags this (with a couple million VW TDIes putting out 40X this...)

Replacing the upstream O2 (Fed) or AF (Cal) sensors is pretty much due at 200k, again Densos being the best choice.

Of course as DLW says the Dorman Help! 420009 non-fouler trick can also silence the P0420, for about $4, just drill one through with 1/2" bit and mount the downstream O2 like so

ex pipe---undrilled 420---drilled 420---O2 sensor

from that far away the exhaust O2 looks real low...:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Does Rockauto.com ship to Hawaii? If so their prices are a little better but not sure with shipping.


I have a 98 4cyl and a 6cyl.


Just did the 4cyl with the Walker part last week. It went well. I have been under the car with flex pipe issues before with the 6cyl so familiar with it.


As far as the brand....not sure. I read reviews on amazon and steered away from some because people said some brands did not fit well. So, see if any reviews.


I just did it with 2 standard ramps on the front tires and chocks behinds the wheels. Go slow be safe. emergency brake etc. With jack stands I double up or use the 2 regular jacks in addition so if it goes wrong I don't get flattened into a pancake.


I went to car wash and sprayed underside of car and engine clean. Put it on front ramps. Chocks to back wheels. Double check parking brake. Cardboard underneath for padding and helps you slide easier. I used a wire brush to get thicker rust off. Used goggle as you will get stuff in your eyes when under a car. PB plaster the cat to resonator section bolts a few hours then wipe off. PB blaster the upstream bolts.


Start with the downstream section as its more floppy and moves as you try to un bolt(upper section is more stable since attached to engine) Take advantage of the stability of the hangers holding pipe more steady.


Used wrench for bolt head(not enough room for 2nd socket on mine, if yours has room 2nd socket would be easier) I used a small piece of galvanized pipe over the socket to make a longer socket handle as my breaker bar was too long. Loosen up but do not remove bolts yet so it holds the pipe and cat in place for when you work upstream.


For upstream bolts I used deep sockets and socket extension to get the socket back to a good movable space. Used the galvanized pipe for a breaker bar too.


Took upstream off first and then down stream. Soaked downstream bolts in PB blaster for awhile and re used them. re used upstream bolts.


In addition to new gaskets I also used permatex high temp gasket maker red 650 farinheight sealant as an outer ring to gaskets. Its messy so have some paper towels.


I put some vasaline on rubber piece that holds hanger and on the hanger itself. Put gasket and sealant on and started by sliding hanger into rubber holder. made some mess with sealant getting upper bolts aligned and put a nut on upper part then went downstream and put bolts on loose and then tightened everything up and put more sealant on joining edges and cleaned up mess.


Sealant says wait 24 hours. after 6 it felt solid and I started and drove car.


6cyl has to be harder because of 2 pipes-connections upstream compared to 1 with 4cyl but this the basic idea.


I thought once bolts loose I would have to pry and pull to get pipes apart but they just came apart and I live in rust area with 260,000 miles.


I did take a screwdriver and tried to remove as much rust as I could on inner pipe but in your area rust should not be a big issue.






Good luck!
Nice write up. Thank you for this. It will help me!

Rockauto prices are usually cheaper, but when factor in shipping, it is alittle bit more than Amazon. The good part about rockauto is that they have better selection of parts than Amazon.


If the car runs fine and you are only replacing the cat because you have to pass emissions testing then look on the forum under 420 code. I believe there are some recent threads of how this code can go away with adding a O2 sensor extension for 5-10 bucks and the code goes away. It might be worth a try since if you already replace the downstream sensor you are already familiar with the area on car.
Go to first new post New 99 1MZ TB/ PO420?
king, i'd like to echo something dlw sed...i too use the jacks front and rear centers in addition to the 4 jackstands.
never had a jackstand give way but my 2 trusty craftsman 1 1/2 ton jacks under it too, i know it's not going nowhere.
good luck. and i know you know this but sometimes i forget to use the 5% discount code. on that purchase it's about 70 bucks savings so worth pasting it in...
tony
Just want to get rid of the light to make the car run better but mostly to get rid of the check engine light.

I've always go crazy on jack stand and other stuff to try keep me from becoming a pancake. I tend to use all 4 when I get deep under there. OCD I guess.

Weak upstream O2 or AF sensors can also give P0420, also exhaust leak. Its the difference between the upstream and downstream that says "cat efficiency" and a minor 5% drop red flags this (with a couple million VW TDIes putting out 40X this...)

Replacing the upstream O2 (Fed) or AF (Cal) sensors is pretty much due at 200k, again Densos being the best choice.

Of course as DLW says the Dorman Help! 420009 non-fouler trick can also silence the P0420, for about $4, just drill one through with 1/2" bit and mount the downstream O2 like so

ex pipe---undrilled 420---drilled 420---O2 sensor

from that far away the exhaust O2 looks real low...:grin:
Hmm... I will that in mind.

We don't have any emission testing thankfully.

I looked at my notes. Previous owner had the Bank 1 sensor 1, bank 2 Sensor 1 replaced at 161K on 1/23/2012. I think it was then when he was told the cat was bad. I do have the android app 'Torque', but not sure what data to look at or how to check the O2 Sensors via the app.

Going to also be replacing the two knock sensors and wire harness down there (one of the knock sensors is also on the CEL list)....and doing valve covers, plug seals, and spark plugs. Hopefully by end of this year after I replace the PS high pressure hose in the next two weeks.

Just trying to make this car run 100% better :)
 

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no emissions and you're sweating the cat and sensors? You may get better MPG but don't expect it to run much better after all the $$; these cars run fine with tired old sensors and cat IME. Aren't the islands still powered by diesel generators wafting liberally into the trade winds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no emissions and you're sweating the cat and sensors? You may get better MPG but don't expect it to run much better after all the $$; these cars run fine with tired old sensors and cat IME. Aren't the islands still powered by diesel generators wafting liberally into the trade winds?
Not really sweating it because of emissions. It's been like this for about 2 years, but been meaning to get it fix properly because I would like to get the CEL light off. MPG's are kind of low, around 21 at the highest.
 

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you're getting 21 on a v6? dunno bout your gen but gen3 avg is 19, all the way from 16-23, so unless you're in a tailwind, with the a/c off and properly inflated tires and cruise control on, on level ground, not sure how you're gonna get much more. heck, if i get 20 i'm tickled and my car is in tip top shape.
on the torque app, assuming you have o2 sensors and not a/f sensors, pick the bank1/sensor 1, bank2/sensor 1, and the bank2 sensor2 (if i'm not mistaken - doing this from memory) and display them as graphs small enough to fit on the same screen so you can watch all 3 sensors at the same time.
both sensor 1's will move in unision almost and pretty fast through zero going from .1 - .9 volts and sensor 2 should move about half as much but still swing between the 2 voltages - more or less.
if you got a/f's, then i believe they are supposed to stay pretty steady around .3 if i remember correctly but someone will correct me if i'm wrong as I only have 1 of those on the 06 and don't watch it much.
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you're getting 21 on a v6? dunno bout your gen but gen3 avg is 19, all the way from 16-23, so unless you're in a tailwind, with the a/c off and properly inflated tires and cruise control on, on level ground, not sure how you're gonna get much more. heck, if i get 20 i'm tickled and my car is in tip top shape.
on the torque app, assuming you have o2 sensors and not a/f sensors, pick the bank1/sensor 1, bank2/sensor 1, and the bank2 sensor2 (if i'm not mistaken - doing this from memory) and display them as graphs small enough to fit on the same screen so you can watch all 3 sensors at the same time.
both sensor 1's will move in unision almost and pretty fast through zero going from .1 - .9 volts and sensor 2 should move about half as much but still swing between the 2 voltages - more or less.
if you got a/f's, then i believe they are supposed to stay pretty steady around .3 if i remember correctly but someone will correct me if i'm wrong as I only have 1 of those on the 06 and don't watch it much.
tony
Sounds good, thank for for that information. I'll refer to them in the future. I'll spend more time with my 98 when I can - I currently am driving my 04 XLE V6 as daily b/c the 98 is leaking quite a bit of power steering fluid from the high pressure line. Planning to work on it next week for that.

Most of my driving is usually 65/45 freeway/city but lately it's been more of 40/60 feels like it. We don't really have long 1hr stretch of roads where you just drive 60. There is so much traffic here most of the days. I am getting 22.1MPG so far over 7896 miles traveled. My 2004 XLE V6 also averages around 22.9MPG over 29,408. My 2004 SE I4 spd achieves about 27.4 MPG over 1,216miles.

My friend's 95 somehow she gets about 25mpg in her 95 V6 LE w/ 312K....she tends to avoid all traffic as much as possible though and drives with a light foot.
 
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