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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

about a month ago i bought my first car, a Celica T20. It drove very well and i was quite happy with it. But i ran into a problem yesterday.
after I had driven 40 km on the highway, I took the exit and came to a traffic light. so i pressed the clutch so i could let the car role towards the traffic light. but while pressing the clutch i saw the rpm rapidly dropping to 0 rpm and then the car turned of. since then the car doesn't want to work stationary anymore.

i went to the toyota dealer and asked if they could have a quick look if the car gave any error messages back but they couldn't find any and told me i probably had to clean and check some of the ignition parts, starting with the ignition distributor.

So with that advice i wanted to do the checks myself, but i can't find any manuals and i don't want to pull of random things and later notice that the car stopped working at all.

So what do you guys think the problem is?
Do you know if there are any online pdf's manuals available?

car: Toyota celica T20 1.8i
engine: 7A-FE
ignition distributor: 4A-FE

thanks in advance :)
Toon
 

· Senior TN Member
Porsche
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Hi and welcome!

Did you have any recent maintenance or service done recently? Sounds like you may have electronic issues, particular with distributor and its internal components.

Ignition coil - measure primary and secondary impedance - https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800b8b92#

G & NE sensors - measure impedance of sensors - https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528006ef7b


If you have non-OEM non-Denso brand distributor or parts within, that is most likely problem. Used junkyard OEM disfributor and parts will work better than brand-new 3rd-party parts from auto-stores. Please review these threads https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...-list-confirmed-distributor-fault-issues.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

There hasn't been done any real maintenance. The only thing that was done that month was switch out one of the xenon head lights because it was broken.

Today my neighbour came by and he helpt me a bit.
We checked the bougies and noticed they did not have they same colour (2 where white like snow and the other 2 where grey).
We also had a look at the distributer, but only took the cap of onder which the rotor sits. We noticed that the rotor was missing a bit of metal.
The distributer is from denso.

Tomorrow i Will be driving to a Toyota garage that handles in 3rd party party.
And in the evening i might have time to try your solutions DannoXYZ.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DacR7HjCoS3ZLLjK6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y4AfgTvuHkioGJ277
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XUqRx7uFrCRtN5dPA
 

· Senior TN Member
Porsche
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#1 and #2 look OK. #3 has oil-burning and #4 is too lean (clogged injector?).



Clean your bougies:
OK​
better​
best​

Yes, rotor is in bad shape, distributor cap looks ok. Perhaps start with new rotor.
 

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It could be low fuel pressure. As the engine warms up, the air is less dense. The computer should send less fuel pressure to the injectors. With the already low pressure and the computer leaning the fuel already; the air/fuel ratio maybe too low to keep the engine running. Replace fuel filter and test fuel pressure. If it’s too low, the fuel pump could be weak or pressure regulator maybe going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@DannoXYZ
I drove to 3 different garage that sell 3rd party parts, but not a single one had the rotor. So i'm gonna order a new one online that might be here tomorrow or on wednesday.
I already cleaned the sparkplugs the way they did in the "ok" video, so once i change the rotor i will also have a look at the sparkplugs again and at the injector.
@Scottcc, @Bitter
How do i check the fuel pressure? because i know the dashboard meter works fine.
 

· Senior TN Member
Porsche
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@Scottcc, @Bitter
How do i check the fuel pressure? because i know the dashboard meter works fine.
That's your fuel-level gauge showing how much fuel is in tank in back. Fuel-pressure is how hard pump is pushing fuel in your fuel-rail towards the fuel-injectors at front of car. To measure fuel-pressure you need to tap into fuel-rail with gauge. Kind of combine these two videos.

First guy's rambling is in correct direction. Except he never connected pressure-gauge to rail to measure actual fuel-pressure.


So combine that 1st video with this second one where he actually measures the fuel-pressure:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well the parts were finally delivered to my house. i switched the distributer cap and the distributer rotor. the car still turns off when i press the clutch, i have the feeling he does a bit better now. so i'm now going to look at the fuel pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This threw me off too.....

Does the car have an after market alarm?

Did you only press the clutch and the car turns off?
like i said, when i press the clutch the rpm drops to 0 and the engine turns off, the same happens if i don't push the throttle while starting the car. so as long as it isn't in a gear it drops back to 0 rpm and turns off.

it does have an after market alarm, but it should be disconnected and not working.
 

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85 camry 5spd dlx
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like i said, when i press the clutch the rpm drops to 0 and the engine turns off, the same happens if i don't push the throttle while starting the car. so as long as it isn't in a gear it drops back to 0 rpm and turns off.

it does have an after market alarm, but it should be disconnected and not working.
The aftermarket alarm could have a anti-theft device causing it to turn off.

Are you sure it's disconnected properly?

Is the intake tube connected to the throttle body?

What work has been done to the car recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The aftermarket alarm could have a anti-theft device causing it to turn off.

Are you sure it's disconnected properly?

Is the intake tube connected to the throttle body?

What work has been done to the car recently?
if you read post #3, you can see that there hasn't been done any maintenance before the problem started.

concerning the aftermarket anti-theft device, i will look where all the wires go and if it is really disconnected.

i will have a look at the intake tube tomorrow.
 

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85 camry 5spd dlx
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if you read post #3, you can see that there hasn't been done any maintenance before the problem started.

concerning the aftermarket anti-theft device, i will look where all the wires go and if it is really disconnected.

i will have a look at the intake tube tomorrow.
Do you have a multi meter?
Test the coil.

If the intake tube is broken or has a hole the car wouldn't get the proper signal for the fuel pump, if large enough you'll notice acceleration problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Do you have a multi meter?
Test the coil.

If the intake tube is broken or has a hole the car wouldn't get the proper signal for the fuel pump, if large enough you'll notice acceleration problems.
i will try to test the coil as soon as possible ( i won't have any time this weekend, because of exams)
i don't think there are any holes in the intake tube (didn't see any). also, as long as the car is in gear there is no problem driving. it accelerates perfect.
 

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Porsche
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Sounds more like intake-air issue, not enough getting in when throttle let up. Check:

1. throttle-butterfly opening angle. Should be a stopper-screw that adjust the stopping position.

2. TPS, measure it electronically and verify that idle-switch is ON when throttle released

3. IAC - idle valve is underneath throttle body. ECU only controls it to manage idle when it detects throttle is released via idle-switch. If idle-switch not working, ECU will not manage idle-speed

4. IAC- remove and clean.
 
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