Disclaimer: i take no responsibilities for your fuck-ups, do at own risk.
So it was time to change the oil in the coupe and I was hesitant to dish out 35 bucks to the local jiffy lube to get my oil done, or 75 bucks if i wanted synthetic. So I went to Kragens, picked up a case of Mobil 7500 Synthetic blend oil for 20 bucks, a fram oil filter for 4 bucks and figured i'd do it myself. I did half the body work on my car and a full suspension set-up so i thought i could tackle this too.
Parts required :
oil filter wrench
oil (5W30 Mobil 7500 synthetic)
containers for old oil
a socket to take the drain plug off with (i think it was a 14mm)
time to get to work!
Step 1 : warm car up to a warm state (just above the low mark so that the oil is fairly liquidy) and raise the car up on jackstands. In my case, i secured my hood with an old broom handle simply because i don't trust the hood struts.
Step 2: remove and inspect oil cap for sludge or for symptoms of a blown headgasket. (mine was gunky and old, but no noticable sludge or headgasket problems)
Step 3: Locate drain plug. On the bottom-side of the car near the passenger wheel. Should be easy to spot.
(I have no clue what that small leaf on it was :lol: )
Step 4: place catch container below the drain plug, unscrew it and let 'er rip. The key is to yank the plug as fast as you can so you don't have hot oil going down your hand as you turn the final few threads and decide to pull it out. Once you feel it is almost out, spin fast and yank it away, making sure the stream of oil goes into the catch container.
I used a total of two Gallon containers. Filled up one and a half.
Step 5: clean off the drain plug and place a new washer on it if the old one is worn out. Mine was a bronze one that was good as new. I'll replace it on the next oil change.
Step 6: now is a good time to take off the oil filter (do it only once all of your oil is drained. Grab your wrench and spin counter clockwise. Once it is loose, you want to take it off as fast as you can and don't turn it over! the filter is full of oil (in my case hot oil) that will want to go everywhere. The filter is essentially a cup on the inside so you want to make sure it is in the right orientation when you take it off so that there is no major spillage everywhere.
What the block looks like without the filter.
Step 7: (I may have lost count =P ) Now is a good time to reinstall the drain plug. Put it back in and tighten it but not too much. By hand first and then via socket. Don't overtighten as it may cause the threads to wear. Use your own judgement. Tighten to the point where it feels tight and then move on. Clean off random oil residue along the pan so that once you start putting oil in, spills and drips will be easy to spot.
Step 8: Take your new filter, unpackage it, oil up the rubber washer and the surface that will touch the block with the new oil and tighten it on. tighten by hand and once the rubber washer contacts the block, do a 3/4 turn more and then it'll be fine. Check to make sure it is securely tigthened.
(filter in place)
Last step : fill your car up with oil. After each quart, inspect for visual leaks. I put in 5 quarts. Turn the car on, pray it doesn't explode, and let it run, observing for any leaks. I let mine run for about 15 minutes with no visible leakeage.
You're done. Go have a cookie and take your car for a spin around the block. Congrats as you just did your own oil change!
p.s. make sure to properly dispose of old oil at an oil recycling center.
As the coupe stands now, 6k miles after massive front-end collision
thanks alot, i plan on doing my first the first do it myself oil change on the camry in about 3-4 weeks, and never saw a diy for camry yet alone the v-6
the oil leaks i'm not worried about. i lose less than a quarter of a quart between oil changes...so maybe one day i'll do it, just not now :lol:
in regards to the jack stand positions, i don't have photos but i'll try to explain to the best of my abilities. near both front wheels below the door is the little thing where you jack the car up with. i think they're called pinch welds. directly along the same perpedicular path of the car (i.e. more to the center of the vehicle) is the frame of the car. my jack stands fit perfectly under that frame.
front
_______
|-------|
|-------|
0------0
j-x---x-j
|-------|
|-------|
0------0
|-------|
|______|
rear
0 ->wheels j -> piece along car where you jack it up with x-> the frame (subframe, maybe) where i placed the jack stands
Nice write up, i plan on doing an oil change in a couple weeks since im low on money and synthetic oil is expensive plus the 40 bucks for an oil change. I'd rather do it myself for less.
hey, great write up. i did my oil change today, i got a 94 v6 and it sucked getting the oil filter out i kept burning myself on the headers lol but got em out eventually. :thumbup:
Just before you install the new filter, hold it upright, fill it with as much new oil as it will hold, and smear some of the excess around the gasket seal. The filter material will hold the oil and not let it spill out, kind of like a sponge, even when the filter is inverted. By the time that you are ready to install the filter, the oil inside it will be completely absorbed. ... Just don't fill it up again, since that would be more than could be absorbed, and it would spill when turned upside down.
The advantage of this technique is that when the engine is started, the filter will be partially filled with oil, and allow the oil pressure to build up ... a fraction of a second sooner than it would with a completely empty filter. It might even extend the life of your bearings and rings by a small amount, over the life of the vehicle.
if your car is like mine, the pinch welds may bend ... in which case, you can place the jackstands on the frame rails
DO THIS IN THE FRONT ONLY (if for some reason you need jack stands in the rear for another project, the frame rails will not support them in the rear)
here's a pic of where they would go in the front [red circle = good, blue circle = bad!]
of course, most people use the pinch welds (little strip that goes in the factory scissor jack) ... im not sure why mine bend and nobody else has that problem :lol:
the pinch weld is the little strip on the far left of the picture, in case you dont know
use E-brake and make sure it's in Park or First (manual)
use wheel chocks
use jack stands or ramps + jack stands
use a socket, never vice grips or open end wrenches for the plug
inspect the old filter for water, gas, metal shavings. (its a sign of things to come)
inspect the old oil for water, gas, metal shavings (ditto)
check the belts, hoses, coolant level, PS level, brake level, etc.
wipe everything with a shop cloth to prevent oil making a stink
always write down the mileage and date of the oil change. (i'm dealing with this now...)
always use the recommended oil for your climate
always always always check the oil at each and every refuel. (see my thread about my mother in law's camry)
always let someone know you're outside messing with the car (shit happens, cars= heavy)
check for leaks, run the oil to autozone, check for leaks, check oil level.
Nice write up. Just don't try to do it fast or you'll miss something, and that co$t$ money.
my fleet:
1998 suzuki gs500 (20,000 trouble free miles)
1989 toyota pickup ext cab (164,000 trouble free miles after timing chain replacement)
1997 honda accord wagon (vtec, 220,000 trouble free miles)
1998 camry 22re (140,000 miles, and at the dealer after being run low on oil. it's the mother in laws, and i still feel terrible about it)
Dude, everyones bends. That part is made out of carboard metal. I remember when it first happened I was like "OH NO!!!!" Now; through experience I have learned Apathy.
Dude, everyones bends. That part is made out of carboard metal. I remember when it first happened I was like "OH NO!!!!" Now; through experience I have learned Apathy.
yeah, well i had to stop using them because they are bent pretty bad - i talked to a few other guys online while i was working, and they said they dont have that problem
good thread! With my I-4 I dont even use a jack. Idk if that's possible with the V6, but I just loosen the pan bolt till it starts weeping. slide the collection pan under the oil pan and with little effort release the pan bolt, which just falls in my collection pan. On the I-4 the oil filter is very easy to take off and there's no need at all for a jack there.
Obviously using a jack is easier, but I have a dirt driveway and I'd rather not risk getting crushed. Again not everyone can go without the jack, especially if the car's lowered.
Ok new here so I have a question I have a 93 Camry v6 exl and on my dash board there is a little light it orange it’s with little lights and a bumper showing I’ve checked all my lights and there all good. Can someone help and figure out what it can be. Thanks
Got this idea from this thread: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=337177 Just to keep things a little neater.
Like the title says...
Just putting this up for those of you that didn't really do anything that significant to start a new thread for..... so just add it to the list...
Hello, I have a 1996 4-cylinder with a bad passenger side rear strut. When I was at a salvage yard earlier today, there was a 1999 camry 4-cylinder with what looked to replacement struts in good shape. They look to be the same design as mine, but Monroe uses different part numbers so I assume...
I can't for the life of me find these "step/courtesy light" location in a 97 Camry LE 2.2 L auto. I bought the car and it had 0 interior lights so I've been switching them out. I see a website that says the step lights are 3057 but I can't locate them. Any advice would be great.
Also what is...
