[piller97]

Hey everyone,
Just looking for some information about changing the brake rotors on a 2008 LE

I changed my brake pads this weekend and discovered that my rotors should be changed.
I dont have any quarrels doing this, as changing the pads was really easy.

Am I correct in assuming that all that is required to remove the rotors is the removal of calliper from the rotor?

As far as how to take the rotor off of the axel(not sure if its the axel.....whatever the wheel mounts too),
the two methods I've found so far are either using a two by four and hammering from behind or by inserting bolts into the smaller bolt holes(not sure if present on my car) on the rotor and screw them in until they force the rotor off(this is my preferred method if possible).
Are there other methods?


Any comments are appreciated.

thanks!



btw
I can't find any very good guides or videos on how to change the rotors specifically, so if you know of any id really appreciate you sharing.

 

[dweaver2015]

Hey everyone,
Just looking for some information about changing the brake rotors on a 2008 LE

I changed my brake pads this weekend and discovered that my rotors should be changed.
I dont have any quarrels doing this, as changing the pads was really easy.

Am I correct in assuming that all that is required to remove the rotors is the removal of calliper from the rotor?

As far as how to take the rotor off of the axel(not sure if its the axel.....whatever the wheel mounts too),
the two methods I've found so far are either using a two by four and hammering from behind or by inserting bolts into the smaller bolt holes(not sure if present on my car) on the rotor and screw them in until they force the rotor off(this is my preferred method if possible).
Are there other methods?


Any comments are appreciated.

thanks!



btw
I can't find any very good guides or videos on how to change the rotors specifically, so if you know of any id really appreciate you sharing.

When you change the brake pads you really should put new rotors on or get the old ones turned if you can and put back on before you put new pads on. If you noticed when you put the new pads on, your rotors probably had some slight grooves and ridges in them. For your new pads to completely contact the rotor in this condition, they will have to wear down and mate up to the grooves and ridges in the rotors, thus shortening the life span of your new pads. If you have new pads with new or turned rotors, they both have flat surfaces and are matched up nicely. Your braking ability will be better improved this way as well.

Another thing to watch for is when you push the caliper piston back into the caliper, make sure you take the cap off of your master cylinder reservoir so the brake fluid can move back without any pressure build up. You can use a c-clamp and one of your old pads to accomplish this easily or buy a tool for about $5 or $10, but you will still need to use an old pad pushed up against the caliper piston.

To swap out or take your rotors off is fairly easy. I just did mine yesterday, new pads and new rotors, with the rotors that I took off that will be going to the shop to get turned. Unbolt the caliper from the caliper mount and take the old pads off. Before you do this though you may want to spray a little WD40 around the hub to loosen the rotor from the hub if it has become "frozen" to the hub. Then unbolt the caliper mount by undoing the two larger bolts from the backside of the mount. Use a 2x4 flat against the rotor and smack the 2x4 with a hammer a couple of times to help loosen the rotor. You don't want to beat it too hard though, give the WD40 a chance to work. You may get the lucky and the rotor may "fall" right off and you won't have to beat on it. My left side rotor was frozen but the right side came off no problem.

Now all you have to do is put the new rotors on or the old ones after they have been turned. Before you put the rotors on though, spray the surface with some brake parts cleaner to remove any dirt, oil, and/or grease that may be on the surface where the new pads will make contact. Then just reverse the order of the parts and put everything back together. Make sure you don't over torque your lug buts when you put the wheels back on though... 76 to 80 ft pounds of torque is all you need. Anymore than that and you risk stretching the lugs, or breaking them, or have them break while your driving.

Here is a link for a video that may help a bit. The guys likes to talk but he shows how everything goes back together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOjmEjSgUiw

Whatever you do, DO NOT use a screw driver to pry against the rotors. The calipers should lift right off without too much trouble.

 

[piller97]

When you change the brake pads you really should put new rotors on or get the old ones turned if you can and put back on before you put new pads on. If you noticed when you put the new pads on, your rotors probably had some slight grooves and ridges in them. For your new pads to completely contact the rotor in this condition, they will have to wear down and mate up to the grooves and ridges in the rotors, thus shortening the life span of your new pads. If you have new pads with new or turned rotors, they both have flat surfaces and are matched up nicely. Your braking ability will be better improved this way as well.

I didn't know that my rotors were in need of replacement until after i was already started on the pad replacement. I wanted to go out and get new rotors immediately, but only had one vehicle. I assumed putting the new pads on worn rotors would cause some damage, but my old pads were so far gone that i decided it was worth the risk.



Thanks for the detailed explanation, it helps a lot.

Thanks for the video aswell.

As far as torquing the lug nuts, i was wondering if you could sort something out for me.......
Does that mean that 76-80lb/ft must be applied to EACH lug nut?
or in total to all of the lug nuts 80/5lb/ft per nut?
Im sort of new to this :roll eyes:



Thanks for all your help

 

[dweaver2015]

As far as torquing the lug nuts, i was wondering if you could sort something out for me.......
Does that mean that 76-80lb/ft must be applied to EACH lug nut?
or in total to all of the lug nuts 80/5lb/ft per nut?
Im sort of new to this :roll eyes:



Thanks for all your help

76-80 ft pounds per each lug nut. I wouldn't go too much over that and this info I got right from ToyotaNation yesterday. You can get a fairly good torque wrench at http://www.harborfreight.com/ for a good price... http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html. It's the one I have and it works just fine and has been tested against other more expensive name brand torque wrenches and matches the settings.

And the new rotor thing... don't worry. Even knowing what I know about doing brakes, I had to replace only the pads once or twice because I didn't have the money to get new rotors and the brakes were awful and needed some help. It was either replace the pads and have them wear quick till I could get new ones and new rotors or not be able to stop at all. We all do what we have to at times. I was just trying to relay to you what I've learned about doing them and hopefully save you some harder times later on down the road. It's all good.

I don't know nearly what I should about working on cars, which is why I find these forums a big help. And if I can help someone in turn, then it's well worth it.

 

[dweaver2015]

... and don't forget to criss-cross when you tighten the lugs...

 

[bionictony]

rotors usually come with holes for a m8 bolt to push the rotor off. the corolla didn't come with that threaded hole so it's hard because it seems welded to the axle. i tried the hammering method and the screw/nut on the caliper mounting area. the process below does the least amount of damage to the rotor.

with the car jacked up, on jackstands, and wheels removed, turn on the car and put it in drive with your foot on the brake. let go ever so slightly and brake again. this will break the rotor from the hub.

to take the rotors off, loosen the bottom sliding pin so you can take out the brake pads. take out the 2 brake caliper bolts and take the rotor off. be sure to support the caliper so it does not strain the brake line.

 

[MD1032]

Let's do this the easy way. Watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCoqnkh9FFU

edit: never mind, found a better video. It's an 8th gen with 4 lugs, but same concept.

 

[mjohnson]

I assume by now you've done the work. I thought I'd put in my experience with removing rotors: hammer and hammer/wood block was unsuccessful for me (also loud as heck). 3 lb dead blow hammer, 2 whacks on the rotor face at the front (just below where the caliper sits) and it was off.

 

[PICKLEBOY]

Does anyone know the torque specs on the caliper brackets? the bolts that hold the caliper in place?

 

[CorollaCharlie]

Does anyone know the torque specs on the caliper brackets? the bolts that hold the caliper in place?

I think it's like 79 ft. LBS.

 

[PICKLEBOY]

Can anyone confirm? I want to take my calipers off to remove some paint on them, but want them installed at the proper torque spec

 

[invader]

Does anyone know the torque specs on the caliper brackets? the bolts that hold the caliper in place?

Front brake caliper to guide pins bolts: 25 ft-lbs

Caliper mount to steering knuckle bolts: 79 ft-lbs

 

[CorollaCharlie]

FSM says 79 Ft. Lbs for caliper mounting bracket bolts.

 

[PICKLEBOY]

Cool, thanks guys, Just to be clear the steering knuckle bolts (or caliper mounting bracket bolts) are the 2 behind the hub correct?

 

[CorollaCharlie]

Cool, thanks guys, Just to be clear the steering knuckle bolts (or caliper mounting bracket bolts) are the 2 behind the hub correct?

Yes.

 

[surgeon0]

DIY from hardtopte72
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...matrix-pontiac-vibe-front-brake-job-pics.html

Caliper bolts 79 lbf, slider bolts 25 lbf

As far as videos, check youtube for EricTheCarGuy, Scotty Kilmer. As for the DIYs here, they are as good as it gets with pics, tips, etc. In order to change rotors you have to go through removing calipers... so if you search using the function, you will get many.

Hope this helps.

 

[invader]

Caliper mounting bracket bolts on steering knuckle: 79 ft-lbs

Caliper mount bolts on guide pins: 25 ft-lbs

 

[BlasterMaster555]

76 ft-lbs on the wheel nuts, and the provided OEM spare tire kit wrench will get you that amount if you put your back into it (I have a torque wrench and checked).

Corolla has "throwaway rotors" which are just thick enough to last through a set of brake pads. You do not turn these, you replace with pads. They are dirt cheap for a reason.

It's my only gripe with the car, the brakes are engineered to be "adequate" and not a millimeter more, and when you ask the brakes to be used a lot, they warp (out of round) easy and wear quick.

 

[hardtopte72]

Corolla has "throwaway rotors" which are just thick enough to last through a set of brake pads. You do not turn these, you replace with pads. They are dirt cheap for a reason.

It's my only gripe with the car, the brakes are engineered to be "adequate" and not a millimeter more, and when you ask the brakes to be used a lot, they warp (out of round) easy and wear quick.

I disagree as my 2005 Corolla has 134K miles on original rotors that have been turned twice. The original front pads lasted over 120K miles thanks to regular checks of the slides to make sure they don't dry up.

 

[invader]

I replaced my original rotors at 140,000 miles (9 years), mostly because they were well rusted up and after chipping it all off a few times with a pick hammer, but never had to resurface them... They do last longer if driven regularly.