[CorollaCharlie]

I had my original rotors up to 260k. I replaced mind with ones from the dealer.

 

[grant2]

I assume by now you've done the work. I thought I'd put in my experience with removing rotors: hammer and hammer/wood block was unsuccessful for me (also loud as heck). 3 lb dead blow hammer, 2 whacks on the rotor face at the front (just below where the caliper sits) and it was off.

This is what my mechanic did also. A bigger hammer, striking the hub portion of the rotor directly. He would strike, spin the wheel hub so he'd hit a different part of the rotor, and hitting again until it broke free. The rust dust could be seen falling off with every strike.

I think using a wood block absorbs too much force for it to be effective.

Even if you are keeping your rotors, marring the hub portion won't affect the braking.

 

[ukrkoz]

I found exactly same - hard hitting rotor HAT between the studs releases rotor in few strokes.

Things to be very careful about is - it is rather awkward to do - so do not hit studs. As the least, you damage thread edge as the worst, you bend stud.

Also, from a guy who did countless rotor replacements and turning. Strictly speaking, rotor warp does not exist. What does exist is uneven brake pad friction material build up on rotors. Some manufacturers, like Honda, have rotor metal very prone to this.
That said, plan your brake job and rotor install. As what you want to do is to bed rotors IMMEDIATELY after install. I witness to this wholeheartedly. I had 04 CR-V that I had to turn rotors every about 15 000 miles. Until I found about bedding. Replaced rotors, bedded once - was done for 75 000 miles more, until I sold her.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

 

[3puttjay]

You can get your rotors turned at oreillys for $25 for the pair of rotors. I've gotten good rotors from rockauto along with the pads for around $100. I tend to use sil-glyde from napa for the pins the caliper slides on. Since you are replacing the rotors and pads, might as well replace the brake fluid as well. I use valvoline dot 4 synthetic (not much more expensive than generic dot 3). Now all this (if you've done it before) shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. The drum brakes take longer (at least for me) because of all those springs in the drum.

 

[bgmbgmbgm]

Get rotors with a black e-coating to deter rust, such as the popular Centric Premium