1. Bottle of brake cleaner
2. Apropriate wrenches-- both Socket and open ended combination
3. Clamp or it's special tool to force the pads/push the piston back for room
4. Decent set of pads like BJ meantioned.
5. Anti squeel stuff/ gel/ spray
6. Not so coarse sand paper to degloss/ scratch up the pads and discs a bit.
7. Haynes, equivalent or the manufacturer's book.
I guess everything is typical exept for that clamp/ special tool you'll need. I've seen it sell for five bucks at the most *the piston depressor.* C-clamp at HomeDepot goes for 2 bucks?
Replacing pads are a peice of cake. I use something like a turkey baster to remover brake fluid prior to retracting caliper pistons. Don't retract the pistons on the 4 piston style caliper while it is unbolted from bracket (like when you are changing rotors).....One of the pistons will on the opposing side will certainly try to jump out. Derpess the pistons on 4 piston calipers when they are bolted up and insert the new pads one at a time. Top off the master cylinder. Invest in some hi-temp silicone caliper grease. KO
Dude, remember please, OPEN THE VALVE BEHIND THE PISTON BEFORE PUSHING IT BACK. Please dont just push it back. ABS systems are too f'ing sensitive. You push to much, too fast and you'll be changing a master cylinder too or the ABS sensors. I dont know how many times people tell me that their brake pedal feels spongy or travels too far down. I know, I did it before too. Ask any mechanic that knows their stuff, that really knows their stuff.
Yeah, thats exactly how. Attach the tube and open it enough to let the fluid out while pushing the piston back in. The problem is that your "trusty" ASE mechanics dont want to take the time to do this. That is why labor on brakes is so expensive. I think their stupid reference book that they use to charge you, tells them that it is a 2 hour job @ 30-45 dollars an hour. So they do it in 30 minutes. AND, AND, AND, if they have to cut your rotors forget it, add $50. Just remember enough to let the fluid out, not all the way. And keep filling the reservoir at the master cylinder as you do all the work. You dont want air going in there, then you have to bleed the whole system. Good Luck :thumbsup:
Thanks lollanais! I truly appreciate the information.
I have done pads on many other cars/motorcycles/dirtbikes and for the most part it is a very simple affair, sometimes calipers need to come off sometimes not. Some pistons need a tool to get back in the caliper, some need to be screwed in. I'll make sure I crack the bleed valve and even put a knot in the tubing so that air cannot get back in to caliper. This should be a very simple job as Toyota almost goes out of their way to make things easy for anyone to do the maintenance.
I have the factory manual I bought off ebay for $125 for both manuals so I'll refer to that as well. THanks again, this has been a very helpful thread all.