[Granddaddy]

U.S.A. model, July/1988 PLAIN AS CAN BE Pickup, 22RE F.I, automatic, 2WD, A/C, regular cab, manual windows/locks.
New alternator, new alternator connector, P.S. deleted including brackets.
Checked all fuses and fusible links.
Serious problem here. I have read approximately 11 web forums all about the Charge Light/Lamp Relay cuz my red Charge and Brake cluster lights are staying on. I've tried every suggestion............except for the Charge Light/Lamp Relay because I CAN'T FIND IT! And I can prove it's not at the driver's side kick-panel or the passenger-side kick-panel cuz I took photos!




















I thought I had this thing licked because I found out about the diode fix and I read about the green relay connector and the relay having "Charge Lamp Relay" printed on it, it being grey and about the size it is, but then when I started pulling stuff apart to find it, it's not there! How the friggy-diggy is this possible???!! Wouldn't the relay have to be there somewhere in order to set off the cluster lights?? Please help!

 

[fourwd1]

I just looked through my 1988 FSM and there is no charge light relay in the wiring diagram.

 

[Granddaddy]

I just looked through my 1988 FSM and there is no charge light relay in the wiring diagram.

Ok so I paid a visit to my buddies at the local Toyota dealership, Parts Manager, and head-honcho mechanic.
Basically your statement is confirmed, and thanks.
The following is strictly in regards to my Pickup; I am not making any references to any other model. For whatever reason, other's situation may be different.
For my Pickup they said there is no Charge Light/Lamp Relay and it just so happens that this started in my year Pickup, 1988. Prior years did have the Charge Light/Lamp Relay. Just for shifts & giggles, I asked Parts buddy to check 1989 and sure enough there still was no Charge Light/Lamp Relay.
Someone had mentioned a diode, so I asked Parts buddy to check that. The only one that came up was somewhere in the middle of the dash. So armed with all this new info, I went to talk to Mechanic buddy. He said very quickly that it's a bad diode attached directly onto the back of the instrument cluster, and he has dealt with dozens of them and that one had just been in the other day. He said most customers just live with it because the dealership's remedy is they have to replace the instrument cluster/gauge assembly box and that it's too expensive in most customer's eyes. The dealership won't just R&R the diode.
But that doesn't mean I won't try! If I feel like I can de-solder the old one off and solder in something that will work, I'll do it.
Then again I don't need babysitting by some idiot lights. I keep a close eye on my brake-fluid reservoir and I know when my emergency-brake handle is drawn (DUH) so I can do without that brake warning bulb. I can install a voltage meter on/under the dash or with an A-pillar mount and know what's going on with my charging-system so I don't need that bulb either.
And screw you, Toyota, for making customers buy a whole new instrument cluster just because of a little goldang diode!
I just might sell this thing!

 

[fourwd1]

Yes, the wiring diagram did show a Diode in series with the Charge Light.
There are other diodes as well, so make sure you get the right one .
Any Diode rated at 25 volts or more and 1 amp or more will do.

 

[Granddaddy]

Yes, the wiring diagram did show a Diode in series with the Charge Light.
There are other diodes as well, so make sure you get the right one .
Any Diode rated at 25 volts or more and 1 amp or more will do.

I've studied the pathways on the "contact paper" (what the heck is the correct term for that stuff?) on the back of the instrument cluster and there is indeed more than one diode, and the pathways show how both the brake light and the charge light are involved. I tested the diodes with them still soldered into the "contact paper" with my multi-meter and the reading on one was "668" and the other was "680." The reverse connection on both was null, so the diodes appear to be functioning, but I'm wondering if those numbers are a little high(??) which could be why the lights are on(??) This is getting to be more hassle than it's worth........I think. I'm not sure I want to bother with replacing both diodes and all that soldering, etc. I'm going to take the instrument cluster assembly box to a couple of places today and let them look at it and see what they think about replacing the diodes versus the age of the "contact paper" and other variables. If it's just too much risk, I think I'll just remove the bulbs and get a nice voltage meter. Thanks again!