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I did not have the warning back on again. The car is now at 127,000 miles. The spark plugs were changed at 85,000 miles.
I see your original post was almost a year ago. Evidently the new spark plugs fixed your alert message. I decided to look around for other causes for the check hybrid system alert.

1. press the display button so the MID will show the Energy Monitor. (battery and tire) Make sure the battery shows a 15% or higher charge. If it will charge to 80% this should show the traction battery is ok.

2. A low charged or weak 12 volt battery in the trunk can also activate the VSC and check hybrid system alerts. Best to let the car sit overnight, then using a dc voltmeter check across the terminals to see if it reads 12 volts. A cheap digital meter may read more accurate. With the engine running it should read about 14 volts dc or slightly above that.

The auto stores sell a power outlet indicator consisting of led colored lights showing basically if the 12 volt battery is good. Some may have the lights plus a voltage reading.

3. running out of gas can also activate these alerts. To reset, remove the negative terminal on the 12 volt battery to reset the hybrid system.
 

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Interesting.

While doing a project on my 08 this weekend, I disconnected the 12V battery for several hours. On my very next drive, I got several warnings at my first stop leaving my neighborhood (check hybrid system, red exclamation mark, check vsc, abs light and there may have been others). I returned home to check things out under the hood (found nothing), powered back up, and only the check hybrid system message remained. I cancelled it with my ultra-gauge and none have reappeared since. :dunno:
Your alerts when disconnecting and reconnecting the 12 volt battery may be normal as it resets the whole system.
 

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2007 TCH
2007 TCH
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2007 TCH "Check Hybrid System" HV Battery code P0A7F?

So yesterday I'm sitting in my 2007 TCH in the parking lot at work and 'ding', the "check engine" light comes on with a "Check Hybrid System" message. I immediately dive it to the dealer, it drives a bit sluggish but ok. Today the dealer says it has a code P0A7F. I may have misunderstood as I can't find anything on this code. They tell me it is the Hybrid Battery reporting a couple of cells not holding a charge completely, like 17V and 16.9V, and the Hybrid Battery needs to be replaced ($4,090.02 for the battery and $252 for labor). So much for the price of batteries ever coming down. Earlier this year they replaced the ABS Accumulator, code C1391, and water pump (>$3,000.00) and a few days ago the A/C Evap. Coil (>$2,000.00) followed by the A/C Blower Motor ($185.00, dealer felt sorry for me and paid the labor). The Hybrid Battery is on backorder and is expected in a couple of weeks. They cleared the message and I am able to drive it until the battery comes in.
Since it has 118,000 miles and no warranty I figure I'm toast. Then the service manager contacted Toyota and to their credit and my great relief they agreed to pay for the battery if I pay the installation (YES!).
Almost all of my driving is highway/tollway here in Houston where it gets pretty hot, so maybe that contributed to the problem(s). I'm the original owner and have serviced this car on schedule and only by the dealer where I bought it new. I'm guessing they will want to take a closer look at the battery failure and I'm considering switching to a basic Camry or even Corolla. My budget can't handle more maintenance surprises on this TCH and I need a car that will go 200k+ without breaking the bank on maintenance.
 

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Thanks for posting the info. I'm glad TMC is backing you up on the battery, but the other items concern me, too. You've spent more on this 5 yo car than I did on my 2002 Camry SE! It sounds like fixing anything on the hybrid is costly!
 

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I'm not happy to hear your report T. Not that it matters now but YES battery prices have come down:

http://www.mytoyotapartsstore.com/index.php?i=2&make=155&model=1376&year=2007&catid=10111&subcatid=20018&section=26&type=parts

I get the feeling your dealer has determined you're an "open wallet" from your previous repairs. For example, the actuator can be found on the same website above for $1700 (still stupid high IMO) so it seems they've been padding their profits with you.

Again, sorry to hear all this. I'm not trying to rub salt in an old wound.
 

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2007 TCH
2007 TCH
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Thanks for the links fotomoto. That is the best list of OBD codes I have seen and the parts prices are very good too. You may be right that the dealer sees me as an "open wallet", no offense taken. One of the few concerns I had buying a 1st gen TCH was that repairs pretty much had to be done at the dealer. I don't mind doing traditional mechanical repairs but trying to diagnose and properly repair a hybrid is another thing. I'm sure the situation has changed since '06 when I bought this car. I will be leaving this dealer as soon as the HV Battery is in. Oh, and yes, my TCH is still on the original 12V Auxillary Battery.
 

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dealer will not install parts from outside. neither shop will.

you welcome. was "nice" of fotomoto to NOT credit me for that post with DTC codes. and it took me several days to pull it all together.

what I was trying to say was - traction batteries are not that expensive. you can get them off salvage yards, has to be front end damage, for around $400. then, any friendly car electrician should be able to drop it in for you. the way it is, you need to rid of that car asap. it's blood sucker. I ran quick summary of your expenses, it's equeal to market car value and closing on exceeding it in repairs. that car IS NOT A KEEPER.
 

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dealer will not install parts from outside. neither shop will.

you welcome. was "nice" of fotomoto to NOT credit me for that post with DTC codes. and it took me several days to pull it all together.
Thanks for the comment about the dealer and outside parts. But if they won't install outside parts, then they have the right to charger you whatever they wish. And apparently they wish to milk their customers. I wonder if / what the warranty is for a replacement battery? Probably 90 days or some similar BS.

Are the codes at that site valid for the 2012 TCH too? I would think so since the post is dated this month. Also, is the port just under the dash like it was on my 2002?
 

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you welcome. was "nice" of fotomoto to NOT credit me for that post with DTC codes. and it took me several days to pull it all together.

Huh? I specifically linked YOUR thread and YOUR specific post. It's not like I did a copy/paste of it here as mine or something. Sheesh. That time of the month?

THANKS! for posting it here too. :thumbsup:
 

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New taillights -> check VSC light

I have a 2009 TCH and after needing to replace a tail light I decided to replace the tail lights with lights from a 2010-2011 TCH. It was completely plug and play and everything fit and worked just fine. However I now intermittently have a problem with the CHECK VSC warning, and the ABS / trac lights coming on. I had Toyota scan the codes and it came back as a tail light problem. My question is: is there anything I can do to keep this warning from coming on? Anyone know how a change in tail lights could cause this? Is it a better idea to just switch back to the original tails? I don't see how this could make the engine throw codes, as they're both LED tails with the same wiring harness. Thanks!
 

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The wiring all looks good. Toyota didn't give me the codes when I asked. They said there were like 8 false codes, and that they needed to order a tail lamp switch or
Something of the sort. I've searched this and found this pretty common when switching to LED lights on scions, and that a resistor is needed, but since I'm going from LED to LED I wouldn't think
That was necessary.
 

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I had a front side marker light go out in the '94 Corolla I had. I replaced it with a bulb from Autozone. I would turn on the parking lights and I found sometimes it would work and other times it wouldn't.

I bought a bulb from the toyota dealer and it worked from then on.

About your tail lights, could be one led bulb pulls more or less current than the one for your year model camry. I would try a exact replacement part from the toyota dealer or some oem toyota online parts supply.
 

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to whitesands point. wife has RX300 that keeps throwing "bad light" warning on the dash. little yellow car with one light "shining".
I have ALL lights working fine. as in - ALL - checked multiple times. had ECM reset. yet, light's still there. but indeed, I bought replacement bulbs from O'Reilly. there might be some point to it.
 

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to whitesands point. wife has RX300 that keeps throwing "bad light" warning on the dash. little yellow car with one light "shining".
I have ALL lights working fine. as in - ALL - checked multiple times. had ECM reset. yet, light's still there. but indeed, I bought replacement bulbs from O'Reilly. there might be some point to it.
When I had my TV shop when I was young, I found some brands of TV's had to have their oem tubes in some circuits and if not, it would not work right. Aftermarket parts and not always the same as the OEM's. I have found that out more then once on replacing car bulbs.
 
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