[Buildings23]

Hello everyone, I have never posted on a forum before but I really need some help with this problem.

The Story:
I have a 2005 Toyota 3.3L SLE coupe that I got about 3 years ago. I got it low mileage and it runs great but recently I noticed that when accelerating from about 25-55mph the car vibrates a lot more than it used to but it stops after I reach highway speeds. I also noticed that a few weeks ago that when the car is cold it starts to make this high pitched squeaking sound when driving or turning at low speeds. I took into Les Schwab today for a free inspection and they told me that both my right and left side CV Axles need to be replaced as well as both of my lower control arms. The quote they gave me states it would be more than $1500 for parts and labor.

The issue with that is I actually had the CV Axles, tire rods, and control arms replaced when I first got the car. I took it to a family friend who is a mechanic to look over the new car I just got and they recommended replacing the exact same things. Back then, the only issue with the car was that it was pulling slightly left and the family friend/mechanic replaced all those parts and also got the car aligned. Now, three years later t looks like the exact same parts are going bad and one of my questions is, other than the possibility that they were replaced/installed wrong, what can cause CV axles, tire rods and control arms to go bad so fast? I don't drive like a maniac and the roads where I live in Utah are bumpy and have potholes but this is bizarre that the only problems I have ever had with this car after 40k miles is the control arms, tire rods and CV Axles. Has anyone ever encountered a similar situation?

My second question is how hard would it to replace these items myself? I am a very very amateur mechanic, but I do have a friend who knows way more about cars than I do and they work on their own cars and have way more tools than I do. How hard would it be for us to replace these components, and is it safe to do so or is this one of those things that you should just leave to a shop to do. If that is the case then I think I will just buy the parts cheaper myself and find a shop to install them and that way I'd only have to pay about a few hundred for labor and not $1500 as Les Schwab.

I wish I had pictures but I have not had a chance to jack up my car and see for myself but as soon as I get the chance I will post some, however the mechanic I was talking to did say that it was pretty bad and that the boot or (bushing?) had a 1.5 - 2 inch tear in it already. I don't notice any problems with the steering or handling other than the vibrations when speeding up fast to get on the highway and my tires do not show any signs of abnormal wear if that helps.

Any insight, comments, advice or just anything really would help a ton because I am just a college student and really do not have the ability to pay $1500 dollars right now.

 

[Thatotherguy88]

it depends on the quality of the installed parts. if there cheap they can fail after a couple years if there good parts they will last longer

 

[Chuy]

The vibrations do appear to be related to CV shafts. It’s the passenger hat usually goes first, Thus, I would replace that first. That is also potentially the most difficult to remove because the center support bearing race can become corroded and seize in place. May not be an issue for you since that shaft was replaced three years ago.

The squealing diagnosis is a bit more unclear. It can be a bad wheel bearing or strut bearing but I trust the shop was able to isolate the noise to the LCA. If it was replaced with cheap aftermarket parts, that could explain why they are failing already.

 

[Buildings23]

Thank you for the insight I appreciate it a ton!

 

[JohnGD]

The first question is are you sure Les Schwab made the correct diagnosis? Why not have the family friend look over it again. Does the vibration happen as you rev the engine in Park? (apply parking brake in a safe area in case of sudden vehicle movement)

The cold start squeal can often be the drive belt slipping. The belt tensioner is a known problem, so have the mechanic look over those.

If I don't reboot factory axles then I use "new" aftermarket axles, not reman. Many aftermarket axles (new or reman) carry lifetime warranty and shouldn't go bad in 3 years. Reman axles can be a crapshoot, but you'd know that early on.

Control arms often carry 3-year warranty. If the bushings are still good then no need to replace. So check to see if those are still covered under warranty first.

How long ago was the transmission fluid and filter changed? I would try that first, and make sure the fluid level is correct. Another area could be transmission differential, if the inner cv joint keeps going bad. But I'd look at the easier problems first.

 

[Bitter]

How are the engine mounts?

 

[Buildings23]

The first question is are you sure Les Schwab made the correct diagnosis? Why not have the family friend look over it again. Does the vibration happen as you rev the engine in Park? (apply parking brake in a safe area in case of sudden vehicle movement)

The cold start squeal can often be the drive belt slipping. The belt tensioner is a known problem, so have the mechanic look over those.

If I don't reboot factory axles then I use "new" aftermarket axles, not reman. Many aftermarket axles (new or reman) carry lifetime warranty and shouldn't go bad in 3 years. Reman axles can be a crapshoot, but you'd know that early on.

Control arms often carry 3-year warranty. If the bushings are still good then no need to replace. So check to see if those are still covered under warranty first.

How long ago was the transmission fluid and filter changed? I would try that first, and make sure the fluid level is correct. Another area could be transmission differential, if the inner cv joint keeps going bad. But I'd look at the easier problems first.

I haven't had a chance to get under the vehicle but I really hope that Les Schwab misdiagnosed the issue and its something else! The vibration only happens when I am accelerating like 25-60 mph and no other times, even when im parked and revving the engine. And yes I definitely have to replace the serpentine belt and timing chain soon as my car has almost 85k miles on it and the maintenance schedule calls for those to be replaced. However, the high pitched squealing comes from the rear of the vehicle which is strange and its definitely not the serpentine belt, could be the rotors?

Also thanks for reminding me to change the transmission fluid, I will definitely try to get that done ASAP because it has never been done before as far as I know. I got the car when it had 46k miles and its approaching 85k. Thank you for all the tips I will try everything out.

 

[Buildings23]

How are the engine mounts?

I haven't changed the engine mounts but I see that come up often when I try to diagnose the problem in the past. The car is at about 85k miles so I guess it's about that time and so I will see about getting the engine mounts replaced because from what I read online it might be what's causing the CV axle to go bad or cause the vibrations that happen in the car.

Thank you!

 

[JohnGD]

+1 check the engine mounts, but at 85K? Not likely but you never know.

If the problem is indeed the mounts, I suggest only genuine mounts. You can check online dealers, such as:

Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

Genuine Factory OEM Toyota parts online at McGeorge Toyota Online Parts. Online prices to 50% Off complete catalog of Toyota online Parts.

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[retiredat444]

something might be misaligned, the problem is that our eyeballs can't see it. If the mount don't fix it try a frame shop. They are not as expensive as you think.

 

[BillDurham]

Is the steering wheel shaking side to side when you accelerate? Do you hear the axles going clickity clack are a corner? It's really rare for CV axle to vibrate in a straight line, or is it only when accelerating out of a corner? PS old mechanic here. I have chased many vehicles for what described and the fix was a tuneup. Toyota has a really handy misfire count page in data. Weak coil/worn out plugs are common.

 

[fjguercio]

I have a 2005 Toyota 3.3L SLE coupe that I got about 3 years ago. I got it low mileage ???????
mechanic said that the boot or (bushing?) had a 1.5 - 2 inch tear
car vibrates...............stops after I reach highway speeds

few weeks ago high pitched squeaking sound when driving or turning at low speeds.

got the car when it had 46k miles
its approaching 85k

These are the important points... my opinion

Want more knowledge... go to the TheCarCareNut on youtube and watch his videos. He also has a few where he reviews the car from top side and bottom side to see what needs to be done.

Usually the control arms, motor mounts, CV axles are good for around 200k miles or so. THE BUT, is you have nearly a 20 year old car with low miles. POT HOLES are another big thing mentioned. Not all parts are equal and the TCCN said to use only Toyota for these parts... they last much longer and ride better. The guys are right some of the after market will have a warranty, some of them are lifetime.

Your Solutions ... and repairs....
Once the CV boot is torn and a 1.5" tear is a big one. They spin and dump all the grease and allow all the road gime, salt, sand into the CV ball joint... This causes accelerated wear and failure. The grease and oil on the ground was the first thing to notice and take action then. Too late to repair the axles with CV Boot. Boot was torn by road debree, running over branches, similar, or just cheaper rubber and got hard and failed.. So you can feel it hard or was torn by physical hit of some kind.

CV Grease got on your accessory belts... and makes them slip. That is the cold noise you hear and when turning the wheel makes the power steering pump work a bit more... so it slips on the belt. When you do your work, change the belt and wipe the pullies off with brake clean on a rag to clean off the oil and grease.

Now would be a good time to get toyota parts and fix this for the long term. Also run the right tire pressure because hard tires will be rather jaring to the car and passengers. Learn to drive around the pot holes. Run a dash cam, if you hit a large pot hole the city or county can be responsible for your car damage if you can prove it and show it on video. Tooo late for any claim now, but just a idea for thought.

ToyoDIY.com will show your parts and you can internet search for 40-45% discounts off toyota list prices. The axles and control arms are expen. I would not thing your motor mounts have issue at 90K.... there are tests.

The TCCN does have video on changing the CV Axles with out a full tear apart. It is very very very good and even taught a motor head like me how to do toyota and I have done the job a few times myself. If you cannot locate the TCCN video (s) mentioned let me know and can go look. I save a lot of his stuff to my "LIKE" and that makes it easier to find and gives him more views. Toyota Master Mechanic showing us how to do toyota.

After watching the Camry CV Axle change and the CAR REVIEW you will have better knowledge.
Yes these are DIY

 

[fjguercio]

did you loose a wheel weight?
2nd car can drive next to your car.... often can see the car tire vibration, looks like tire is jumping a bit.
Pot holes and shocks can knock off tire weights