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Discussion Starter #1
I was wiring up some neons and LED's to a switch the other day when I encountered a problem. I was drawing my positive 12V and ground from the cigarette lighter. I tapped it right at the copper leads that go into the lighter itself. I had everything wired up and I put the key in. I turned on the switch, and everything worked fine. I was thrilled, but then i heard a soft "pop" and all lights went out. They would not turn back on. I checked my connections, and everything seemed fine, except for one mysterious black wire on the back of the cigarette lighter that looked like it had melted. Could this be some kind of protective fillament or something? How can I fix this or get around it. I was thinking of running a wire where the filament had been, hopefully one that wouldnt melt. It would be great if I could get some help from some experienced members here, because I am pretty new to car electronics. Thanks!
 

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you might have sireed it wrong and sent a low volt power threw the ground,you didnt say what gen you have but if i was you i would wire it up to one of the emty fuse spots in the fuse panle
go from that to a switch and that to the lights. and the ground to the frame. as for your melted wire try and trace it back as far as the meld sec. is cut it off tack a volt meter and set it to ohm setting and find out if you are grounded,if so make shere that it is a ground not a power line. you can do this buy replaceing the fuse you may have blown and tern the power on take you volt meter and tern it to volts and see if there is power.if everything cheaks out you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
its a gen 4 i believe and the dome fuse is still intact. And what do you mean by making sure its a ground and not a power line? I only used the lines going to the cigarette lighter because i figured the lighter would need both + and ground power. Is that ok to do that? And I cant find any fuses that are blown minus the mystery melted wire. The dome light is definately working.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
ok well here are some pics of the project...

Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3

It shows the positive and negative wires that I have running to the cigarette lighter. The 1st pic is just the switch, the 2nd and 3rd pic show the melted wire, and where i tapped the contacts. Its not pretty, but it did work. Does this help explain it?

P.S. the melted wire is the thin black thing between the two tiny copper tabs
 

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sorry i dont have a manule for a gen4 but it loks to me like that is a ground. but is a small gauge. how many watts are your neons?
i think you will be okey if you trace out the fryde wire and replace,as for the neons move them to the fuse box.
are you shere you hook up the - to the - and the + to the + on your lights.most times thay will work that way for a short time but short out after a short time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the "neons" i have are actually cheap brand knock-offs that are really some LED's in series that give the effect of neons. I will have to get a voltometer and test the circuits. Do you think I just shorted the cheap neons? The thing that boggles me is that i actually heard an audible "pop" when they stopped working, and then that one wire is also melted? What do you suggest doing? I have a 3 day weekend coming up so I will try whatever you suggest? If you think a different setup is better, i may also try changing it. Suggestions are greatly apprectiated!
 

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the wir that is melted might be a fuseabul link witch means the the wire will pop like a fuse, but i dont know if that is the thing here but in some cases if i wire gets to hot and starts to melt. it will melt into 2 pices and the pop you hear is electrisity jumping from one end to the other but only happes once. i have only delt with this in high voltage such as 220 and 480 but it can happen in smaller form,like i said it is a small gauge wire looks like 16 oir 18. you might want something like a 10 or 12 gauge.run the tests and see how it goes. i will look for a book on the gen 4's just to cheak my self. good luck:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, well I did some work this weekend, and I figured a way around my origional problem of the melted filament. I simply plugged my wires into the harness that had origionally gone over the metal tabs of the cigarette lighter. This does mean that the cigarette lighter will not work, but I dont use it anyways :D I also installed an inline 20 amp fuse right after the + wire coming out of the cigarette lighter harness. Well, long story short, I hooked everything up, and flipped the switch. The "neons" turned on! But then I flipped the switch on and off a couple times to make sure it was working properly, and then they stopped working. Once again they only worked for a few seconds. So, I checked the fuse. Blown 15 amp cigarette ligher fuse. I replaced that with a 25 amp fuse. I turned everything on again, and it worked for a little, and then, nothing. I checked the fuses, and my inline 20 amp fuse blew. Im getting tired of replacing fuses, and I cant figure out what's wrong. I have my wires plugged into the right place, as I checked the current coming out of the cigarette lighter harness. How could these Neons that were working off of the cigarette lighter, and 3 blue LED's draw this many amps? How could this keep blowing fuses? Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I do have a phototransistor and a 3904 tansistor hooked up to my 3 blue LED's, but I still dont get how this could be drawing this much current? Does anyone have any ideas as to what is drawing all the current, enough to blow a 20 amp fuse???
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok i removed the LED's and transistor circuit from the loop, so it was only the "neons" attached. It still blew the 20 amp. Any ideas for what is causing this?
 
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