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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Afternoon everyone.. I'm new to this forum.. I am in the process of preparing to build a circle track toyota racer, either a camry or an avalon.


I live in Michigan and the local 3/8mile paved circle track has a new class called "Pure Stock" which is V6 FWD automatic tranny only.

Last year a Dodge Intrepid won the points championship.. racing mostly against other Intrepids, a Spirit, a Lumina and a Cutlass Supreme.

I think a Camry or Avalon would kick some serious tail.. but I'm new to the car and I'm hoping the legions of tuners, street racers and drag racing folks here will help me build a great circle track racer.
Anyone interested in giving me a hand ?
 

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Oh man, that sounds like something I should drive down to Michigan for. A FWD V6 auto only race...that would be a cakewalk in a Camry. Honestly, these cars handle amazing with some suspension upgrades. Tokico struts, H&R springs (or Eibach, Tein, many more), a front tower bar, and a TRD rear sway bar and you'll be eating that Intrepid.

I would recommend finding a 1994-1996 Coupe w/ the V6 obviously. The V6 comes with an auto transmission only, which is matched perfectly to the engine. They are hard to find, but are definately out there. Awesome, reliable cars. Not a ton of aftermarket support (no Accord or Civic here), but definately fun cars to own.

Shit, you can even buy mine! HAHA. (not really, I put it up for sale for a LOT of money to see what happens. Maybe some kid will see it and bite, I dunno?)

http://modifiedcartrader.com/findVehicle/listingDetail.asp?directID=6959&userZip=&numLat=&numLong=&txt=1994_Toyota_Camry_LE%20V6_FOR_SALE
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
An '00 + Avalon is probably going to cost too much money unless you know where there is one in a salvage yard.

Since we have to strip off all the glass, plastic, trim, interior -- I'm hoping to find a car which was in a not so bad front or rear accident, or soft roll over, where the powertrain is okay, but the glass, airbag, ect are no good and the car has been salvaged and doesn't have an easy rebuildable future.
 

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I'd get something with the 2grfe....it'd beat the pants off of any other stock v6 engine out there right now unless you pick up at VQ

if I had a choice of picking a "pure stock" car though, I'd get the 3.5 altima with the vq...the suspension on that thing, as far as stock goes, is hard to beat
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
94CoupeV6 said:
Plus an Avalon is going to heavier. I would really consider the 1994-1996 Camry like I mentioned before.
I'll post a full set of the rules below.. but all these cars when we get done stripping them down are generally under weight and we have to bring them back up to race minimum of 3000#

I would like the Altima a lot.. but they weren't "American Made" till the 02 model year and would cost a fortune..

-- full rules --


Notice # 1: The Pure Stock division is new for the 2006 season. It was added in an attempt to provide a more affordable option to racing. Due to the many makes and models available for use, restrictions and minor changes may need to take place during the season as we learn more about this new division.
Notice #2: Any interpretations of the rules are left to the officials, whose decisions are final. Just because it is not written, does not mean you can do it. The two words to remember in this class are STOCK ONLY. In the event a car is deemed to have illegal parts the car is subject to being banned from all future race events at Spartan and Springport Motor Speedways. The driver is subject to loss of points to date, all prize money for the night and suspension from property.
Notice #3: If you are considering building or purchasing a Pure Stock we highly recommend you receive pre-registration approval prior to doing so. There may be cars that have been permanently suspended Spartan because of rule infractions.
A. BODY AND CHASSIS:
Any American made FWD V-6 model (no convertibles, 2 seat coupes, super charged or turbo).
The vehicle must remain in its original form. No alterations are allowed unless specifically stated in these rules. (See notice #3)
a) Wheel base minimum: 104.5"
(NOTE: Small-bodied cars not allowed. If you're unsure, call first)
b) Weights: (post race with driver) 3000 lbs.
(3800, DOHC, multi-valve add 100 lbs.)
c) Bumpers must be stock appearing.
d) Tow hooks are required.
e) All doors must be welded shut.
f) Rub rails are allowed (no sharp edges).
g) Must be able to open trunk and hood without use of special tools. Hood pins required.
h) Rear and side glass must be removed. Windshield may stay or be replaced with 1/8" thick Lexan. All other glass must be removed including but not limited to taillights, headlights, turn signals, mirrors, plastic, upholstery, carpet, etc.
i) Any after market add ons must be removed. Ex: trailer hitch
j) The battery may remain in the original factory location provided it is in a safe location and securely mounted. If the battery is relocated, it may only be relocated to the trunk area. Batteries mounted in trunk must be secured by (2) two 1" metal straps. No batteries mounted in driver's compartment.
k) Fuel tank to be mounted in trunk and secured with (2) two 1" metal straps (made for racing for fuel cells are recommended). May run plastic gas tank if it is located in front of rear axle, under floor pan and is fully covered with a steel skid plate. Fuel lines must run below floor pan. Tanks that are mounted in the trunk must have protective hoop and 10" of ground clearance.
l) Front fender inner liners may be removed.
m) No frame alterations of any kind allowed.
n) No adjustable shocks or struts of any kind allowed.
o) Must have stock floor plan to rear axle and all holes in fire walls must be covered with sheetmetal.
p) Must have battery kill switch mounted on "A" pillar.

B. ENGINES:
a) Stock only in stock location. No aftermarket parts.
b) Single exhaust only. Maximum 2.0" OD. Last 6" of exhaust must exit behind driver and be fully visible. No exhaust leaks allowed.

C. DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS:
a) Stock automatic only. Cooler are allowed.
b) Stock diameter working torque converter only.
c) No aluminum wheels. Steel wheels only, stock for that year, make and model.
d) 1" Lug nuts are required.
e) D.O.T. Street radials only. No bias ply, made for racing tires. Maximum width 235. No less than 60 series (no 55, 50, 40). Minimum tread wear rating of 300. All 4 tires and wheels must be the same size.

D. BRAKES:
a) Must have 4 wheel hydraulic brakes in working order.
E. SAFETY:
a) A four point cage with four driver's side door bars, three right side door bars and a 1/8" steel plate on driver's side door bars from front upright to rear upright and from top door bar to frame rail is mandatory. A front hoop may extend into the engine bay area. Tubing must be .095 gauge, 1.75" O.D. and must be padded around driver.
b) Made for racing aluminum seat, properly mounted is required.
c) A 5 point harness, properly mounted with a 3 year maximum date is required.
d) Driver's side window net with quick release is required.
e) A 2 lb. currently dated B or C type dry chemical fire extinguisher is required within driver's reach.
f) Fuel injected vehicles are required to have fuel pumps wired to stop any fuel from being pumped when engine is not running. g) Steering wheel center must be padded. Quick release steering wheel optional.
 

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wait a minute isn't the 3rd gen camry's wheelbase smaller than their minimum of 104.5" I think it's something like 103 or so. Also the camry with v6 have the stock exhaust at 2.25" so it goes against their maximum of 2.0". But I see you have to modify the exhaust anyways so thats nothing. Also I see that you can't have adjustable struts or shocks so that rules out having coilovers so it has to be tokicos struts. Too bad no coupes allowed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
felonyr301 said:
wait a minute isn't the 3rd gen camry's wheelbase smaller than their minimum of 104.5" I think it's something like 103 or so. Also the camry with v6 have the stock exhaust at 2.25" so it goes against their maximum of 2.0". But I see you have to modify the exhaust anyways so thats nothing. Also I see that you can't have adjustable struts or shocks so that rules out having coilovers so it has to be tokicos struts. Too bad no coupes allowed.
Camry from 97-02 was 105.2 and grew to 107.1 in 02. Avalon (also a legal option) was 107.1 starting in 95. The exhaust only has to be 2" for the last 6 inches.. so you can run stock exhaust, yank out the Cat and the Muffler, and then taper down to 2" for the last 6". It says they have to be stock.. doesn't say we can't cut them, put dampers on them or add rubbers to them to stiffen, shorten and lower.
 

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I would own this class so mother fucking hardcore...

Get a 92-93 Camry/ES 300. Remove any weight you can get away with. Which is alot. ES is alittle heavier, but more aerodynamic. ES isn't from kentucky, but lie & say it's a Toyota Camry with a Lexus badge. Who the hell is going to dispute you? Me!?

Besides. It won't matter. You need 3100lbs since you're DOHC. You'll easily find 100lbs of weight to ditch.











Like always... Cheat. There is no such thing as stock lmao.

Get rid of the resonator in the fender well.
Set the ignition base timing & AFM cog for peak power. For that matter grab an SMT6 & install it.
Clean Everything, especially the ports.
3-angle valve job, unshroud the valves PORT THE MOTHER FUCKING HEADS. (Spend your time actuall porting. Not gasket matching.)
Slip the timing belt & cam sub-gears to trade-off very, very few horsepower from where you don't need it, to the rpm range you find youself racing at.
If you've got a cat... Gut it & submerge the threads of the nuts & bolts in water so they rust shut & are difficult to remove.
Oughta be well on your way to 230-240hp at that point.
TRD Rear sway bar.
TRD springs.



Hawk HPS pads, Brembo blank rotors, dot 4 brake fluid.
Stock tires are 205/65 R15, but you might be able to stuff some 215's on there.
Take the differential out & have a shopmake some custom gears lmao.

Stock diameter torque convertor doesn't mean you can't run a rebuild!






Get weasy to make you some reground cams without cleaning them up first. Unless someone pulls them out & degrees them at the track. Noone will ever know after they've been driven long enough to wear the coating off the lobes.




3.0L-3.5L maxima's will easily run away with it. I don't see how the USDM cars that get's tomped on the street by the japanese iron would fare any better on a track. They've got worse handling, they've got worse brakes & only a few have good engines.




SHO Taurus with it's Yamaha engine would be a good choice too. Those are cheap & 220hp, but the torque curve isn't as nice.




















Anbd yeah, I've seen this around local tracks too. But nobody really does it down here... It's still all your typical good old boys racing their rwd v8 cars. :\
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The 92/93 Camry wasn't from Kentucky either.. so any G2 car is going to get bounced... also, the Gen3 car had too short of wheel base, at 103.1 inches. So 86 that idea.

Now... the rest of your post.. does any of that apply to the G4 ?
 

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What you think they're gunna measure it?
Call them up... Tell them what you've got. Tell them Camry/ES's are made in kentucky.
Just like the first person that takes a Maxima to those races & claims it's made in Smyrna, Tn is going to win.




Keep in mind because of participation. if you act serious about doing it... They're most likely going to be alittle lax for you. Tracks get to make their own rule set. It's not NASCAR, or ARCA, or whatever where things are set in stone. These are meant to be entry level, BEGINNER races. Normally you'll have a rule saying you only get 2-3 seasons in fwd v6 before they ask you to move on.






keep in mind when they say american made, the generally mean the big 3. Not jsut from an american plant lmao.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Toys.. I've raced this track for awhile in the FWD 4-Cyl division and am moving up to the Pure Stock class. The FWD V6's actually run with the RWD V8's... its "Pure Stock" meaning not many changes are allowed, but as you are inferring... you can generally get away with more then the rules themselves say. HOWEVER, anything I "stretch" I want to be something I can go back on.. If I put in more then 8 degree camber, if I put on Koni Struts, if I use a heavier sway bar.. I can always go back to stock part in stock location.. but if prep an illegal car and get caught, there is no path backwards. Since the rules require stock dash, the VIN is there for all to see.. they can run the VIN, get the year, make, model and then know where it came from. I'm not inclined to dip my toes into that shark infested water.. THAT BEING SAID, I think that a 4G Camry or 95+ Avalon.. with maybe a motor/tranny from a 3G or a 5G would be something I could get away with. Will a 5G motor drop into a 4G car ?
 

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By the time you get to wheel to wheel racing with race seats and roll cages, you're usually far past racing in the stock category. On the other hand, wheel to wheel racing takes guts, money, and a whole lot of experience, so I guess running a stock class makes it somewhat cheaper.

Anyway, I like Toysrmes advice. There are a LOT of things you can tweak thats borderline illegal in a stock class. As far as the cat converter, I don't even think you need to gut it and hide it, it look like its legal to run a straight pipe right down and out to the side. I also don't think it said you couldn't port and polish the head either, yeah, like you said, theres no such thing as stock, especially when the doors are welded shut!

On a circle track, I think your biggest goal is going to be raw power and possibly tire traction, which is why most racers run american cars on a track like that. Suspension is nice, but you're not going to be tossing the car from side to side. It says stock suspension and no aftermarket parts, but you might get away with cutting the springs to get lower to the ground.

If the max tire size is 235, I don't see why you can't run a 235/60 tire on a 16" rim, I don't see any restrictions on ripping the fenders up.

Anyone out there running a 32V V8 caddy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The RWD guys get a bit more leeway then we do.. most are running the GM Metric Frame cars... I posted their rules below... just as an FYI. No one ran a 32V Caddy though.

Again.. cost is a consideration here.. I don't think anyone is going to spend $10,000+ on a car in a $250 to win race.

I found a car last weekend at the salvage auction which I was going to use to start my project..



But I'm torn between a Toyota and a Honda ( I realize I'm probably going to get flamed for this ) but I thought this would be a good place to start..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
RWD Rules:

A. BODY AND CHASSIS:
Any American made RWD, 2 DR, 4 DR, Station Wagon, full-size 2WD P/U, S-series GM, Ford Ranger, or Dodge Dakota (No Camaro, Firebird, Mustang, Convertible or 2 seat coupes).
The vehicle must remain in its original form. No alterations are allowed unless specifically stated in these rules. (See notice #3)
a) Stock core support only, in stock location- 50 lb. penalty for replacement.
b) Wheel Base Minimums: Car 108" P/U 108"
c) Weights: (Post race with driver) 3200 lbs. for all V6 3400 lbs. for all others
d) All added weight must be secured with two, ½" bolts. Weight must be painted white with car number on it.
e) Bumpers must be stock appearing - no sharp corners. Rounded corners only.
f) After market, stock-appearing nose and tail pieces may be used.
g) Tow hooks are required.
h) All doors must be welded shut, including tailgates.
i) Rub rails are allowed (no sharp edges).
j) Must be able to open hood and trunk with out the use of special tools. P/U's may have bed enclosed with aluminum or sheet metal but are required to have a 3' x 4' opening panel at the rear. Hood pins are required.
k) Rear and side glass must be removed. Windshield may stay or be replaced with 1/8" thick Lexan. All other glass must be removed including but not limited to taillights, headlights,turn signals, mirrors, plastic, upholstery, carpet, etc.
l) Any after market add-ons must be removed. Ex: trailer hitch
m) The battery may remain in the original factory location provided it is in a safe location and securely mounted. If the battery is relocated, it may only be relocated to the trunk area. Batteries mounted in trunk must be secured by (2) two 1" metal straps. No batteries mounted in driver's compartment.
n) Fuel tank to be mounted in trunk and secured by (2) two 1" metal straps (made for racing fuel cells are recommended). Tanks that protrude below frame rail are required to have a protective hoop. Minimum fuel cell ground clearance is 10". Fuel line must run below floor pan.
o) Front fender inner liners may be removed.
p) No frame alterations of any kind, except the rear frame rail may be replaced with square tubing if rusted out or bent from spring pocket back (at the discretion of the officials).
q) Stock appearing springs allowed, front and rear must be the same on both sides and equal. No spacer or cup adjustments of any kind allowed.
r) Must have stock floor pan from front firewall to rear of seat, in the event the floor pan is removed behind the seat a 50 lbs. weight penalty will be assessed.
s) All holes in rear firewalls must be covered with sheet metal.
t) Must have stock front firewall and in stock location.
B. ENGINES
a) Stock only to that make and model. No after market add on parts. Stock air cleaner. May use after market valve covers. No turbocharged or supercharged.
b) Engine location: forward most spark plug hole in line or ahead of the upper Ball joint checked on drivers side.
c) Engine may be rebuilt to stock specs; no more than .030 clean up allowed with OEM style pistons. No made for racing pistons allowed.
d) Engine must maintain 15 lbs. of vacuum at idle, in gear, with foot on brake.
e) Single exhaust only with max O.D. 2.5", stock mufflers with a single inlet and single outlet. Last 6" of exhaust must exit behind driver and be fully visible. No exhaust leaks allowed. No headers.
f) Carburetors must bolt on stock manifold (no spacers).
C. DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS:
a) Transmission must be stock automatic, no power glides. Must have an overflow can mounted outside of driver's compartment and be connected to the transmission vent. Must have locking style dip stick. Transmission coolers are allowed.
b) Stock diameter working torque converter, OEM only, with a 1" inspection hole.
c) Drive shaft loop required and to be mounted 1/3 of the way from the front of the shaft.
d) No welded or posi-traction rear ends.
e) No aluminum wheels allowed. Standard wagon wheels or steel racing wheels are ok. 8" maximum width.
f) 1" Lug nuts are required, 5/8" wheel studs recommended.
g) D.O.T. street radial tires only. No bias ply or made for racing. Maximum width 235. No less than 70 series (no 65, 60, 50, etc.). Minimum tread wear rating of 300.
D. BRAKES:
a) Must have 4 wheel hydraulic brakes in working order. (OEM ONLY)
b) No aftermarket rear Disc Brakes.
c) No cockpit brake adjusters.
E. SAFETY:
a) A four point cage with four driver'e door bars, three right side door bars and a 1/8" steel plate on driver'e door bars from front upright to rear upright and from top door bar to frame rail is mandatory. A front hoop may extend into the engine bay area. Tubing must be .095 gauge, 1.75" O.D. and must be padded around driver.
b) Made for racing aluminum seat, properly mounted is required.
c) A 5 point harness, properly mounted with a 3 year maximum date is required.
d) Driver'e window net with quick release is required.
e) A 2 lb., currently dated B or C type dry chemical fire extinguisher is required within driver'ch.
f) Fuel injected vehicles are required to have fuel pumps wired to stop any fuel from being pumped when engine is not running.
g) A collapsible after market steering column and disconnect steering wheel is okay.
h) Steering wheel center must be padded.
i) Master shut off switch to main battery cable, placed near "A" pillar for easy access by driver and safety crew is mandatory. j) Refer to section 4 for additional safety requirements.
 

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Hmm seing that Honda is more of a 4 cylinder company, I would suggest runnin' a Toyota. A V6 Camry is going to be better and faster than a V6 Accord. If you do go with a Honda, I would try an Acura TL and/or a Legend. I think Toys was right, as always. I would definately go with an ES300. Great Camry engine, and more aerodynamic...and since weight obviously won't be a problem this will be your best bet as far as a Toyota. Just stay away from anything American. I think the competitors who have something that's not a GM or Chrysler or Ford have an instant advantage.
 
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