i read somewhere if you drive in 1st to about 2500-3000rpm and u put it in third or fourth and pound it, if your clutch is bad itll slip like a motha....
Clutch Question
When the clutch pedal is pressed it makes a hissing sound, only when pressed. Also, it has been revving up while in gear if I push hard into the gas. I'd have to let off the gas to stop the rev and get it going again.
What are these signs pointing to, clutch replacement, flywheel, or anything else? The master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced.
Are there any write ups on replacing the clutch, as this is my "learning truck" for the more indepth mechanical stuff.
What are these signs pointing to, clutch replacement, flywheel, or anything else? The master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced.
Are there any write ups on replacing the clutch, as this is my "learning truck" for the more indepth mechanical stuff.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
its slipping every gear
Anyone?
If it's slipping you need a new clutch. Mine needs one, but it only slips when I'm pushing it hard in 3rd or 4th. While you are in there, you should resurface the flywheel, and replace the rear main seal. There's lots of threads if you search a little bit.
I've searched just never found anything specific to replacing the clutch
Is it slipping or are you having trouble shifting into 3rd and 4th?
If you, or anyone else, is experiencing the hard shift around 3rd and 4th, there is a rubber bushing at the bottom of the big ball of the shifter #33505-35020 that can be replaced. It may or may not be shown in any parts schematic, or someone will tell you to replace the whole housing. What happens, is that this rubber bushing splits apart into two pieces and eventually just plain falls apart to the point where it does no good. I also recommend replacing the small nylon bushing at the end of the small ball on the shifter where it goes into the shift lever housing. I would also recommend replacing these two items if you are going to be replacing the clutch.
I have seen these two small pieces be discounted and drive people crazy until they finally take me word for it and try it because they have tried everything else and have nothing to lose, and it fixes their problem.
I pass this along as informational purposes. I don't know if this is applicable to any of your current situations, but may want to be aware of it for the future.
As always, if any of you have any questions, feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to assist in any way I can.
If you, or anyone else, is experiencing the hard shift around 3rd and 4th, there is a rubber bushing at the bottom of the big ball of the shifter #33505-35020 that can be replaced. It may or may not be shown in any parts schematic, or someone will tell you to replace the whole housing. What happens, is that this rubber bushing splits apart into two pieces and eventually just plain falls apart to the point where it does no good. I also recommend replacing the small nylon bushing at the end of the small ball on the shifter where it goes into the shift lever housing. I would also recommend replacing these two items if you are going to be replacing the clutch.
I have seen these two small pieces be discounted and drive people crazy until they finally take me word for it and try it because they have tried everything else and have nothing to lose, and it fixes their problem.
I pass this along as informational purposes. I don't know if this is applicable to any of your current situations, but may want to be aware of it for the future.
As always, if any of you have any questions, feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to assist in any way I can.
If it's slipping you need a new clutch. Mine needs one, but it only slips when I'm pushing it hard in 3rd or 4th. While you are in there, you should resurface the flywheel, and replace the rear main seal. There's lots of threads if you search a little bit.
Is it slipping or are you having trouble shifting into 3rd and 4th?
If you, or anyone else, is experiencing the hard shift around 3rd and 4th, there is a rubber bushing at the bottom of the big ball of the shifter #33505-35020 that can be replaced. It may or may not be shown in any parts schematic, or someone will tell you to replace the whole housing. What happens, is that this rubber bushing splits apart into two pieces and eventually just plain falls apart to the point where it does no good. I also recommend replacing the small nylon bushing at the end of the small ball on the shifter where it goes into the shift lever housing. I would also recommend replacing these two items if you are going to be replacing the clutch.
I have seen these two small pieces be discounted and drive people crazy until they finally take me word for it and try it because they have tried everything else and have nothing to lose, and it fixes their problem.
I pass this along as informational purposes. I don't know if this is applicable to any of your current situations, but may want to be aware of it for the future.
As always, if any of you have any questions, feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to assist in any way I can.
I had trouble getting into gear until I replaced those this spring. I haven't seen a good writeup on replacing the clutch, but I hear it's a bit of a project.
It is if you are not doing it with a lift and a trans stand. As someone mentioned, if you are going to do the clutch, have the flywheel turned(2 step) replace the rear main seal, and the front trans seal. I suggest using a good quality aftermarket clutch if you are not going to go OEM. My recommendation when doing a clutch would be as follows:
Pressure Plate
Disc
T/O Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Rear Main
Front Trans Seal and gasket
Both Bushings in the Shifter
Flywheel Resurfaced (2 stage)
Pressure Plate
Disc
T/O Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Rear Main
Front Trans Seal and gasket
Both Bushings in the Shifter
Flywheel Resurfaced (2 stage)
It is if you are not doing it with a lift and a trans stand. As someone mentioned, if you are going to do the clutch, have the flywheel turned(2 step) replace the rear main seal, and the front trans seal. I suggest using a good quality aftermarket clutch if you are not going to go OEM. My recommendation when doing a clutch would be as follows:
Pressure Plate
Disc
T/O Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Rear Main
Front Trans Seal and gasket
Both Bushings in the Shifter
Flywheel Resurfaced (2 stage)
I've looked at the HD 1,600 clutch at marlin. That covers everything except for the Seals and flywheel, correct?
Yes, Everything except the seals, gasket, bushings, and flywheel.
I've looked at the HD 1,600 clutch at marlin. That covers everything except for the Seals and flywheel, correct?
What year is your 4X4 and can you by chance email or PM me your VIN#
?
?
While your here Toyotapartsman, would you be able to get this shifter boot? The PO mangled it and the floor while installing the body lift.
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Rockauto has new flywheels for $50-100 before shipping. A stepped cut of the flywheel could cost you $50. not saying you have to get a new one at all but if you don't know a good machine shop (emphasize the stepped cut to them too, some will just do a flat cut which will cause the clutch to slip horribly, I've tried it (be careful buying used parts lol)) or it's some distance away, it's another option.
If you had a 2WD I'd say it's actually not bad without a lift other than the pilot bearing. I just did mine and wedged the trans between the crossmember and cab.... less work than taking the bellhousing off to get it down and back up again. I have no idea if that trick would work with a t-case attatched.
If you had a 2WD I'd say it's actually not bad without a lift other than the pilot bearing. I just did mine and wedged the trans between the crossmember and cab.... less work than taking the bellhousing off to get it down and back up again. I have no idea if that trick would work with a t-case attatched.
I think I'll just end up getting a new one so theres no delay when putting the new clutch in.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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