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· DILLIGAF
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Removed battery and tray
Removed air intake and filter
disconnected lower ball joints
Bought a new 30mm socket
removed both axles
removed starter
removed the plastic shields
disconnected sway bar
disconnected hydraulic lines to rack & Pinion
drained lube oil
unplugged wires
disconnected shifter cables

Quit for the evening
 

· DILLIGAF
Joined
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Removed the remaining items
supported engine from above using chain, cables and 4x4s
pulled the lower bellhousing bolts except for one
removed the two upper bellhousing bolts, removed the motor mount and brackets for clearance.
Put transmission jack under transaxle and removed the last bellhousing bolt.
Pulled tranny and lowered.
removed clutch and pressure plate, cleaned flywheel and inspected. It's in very good shape, checked for flatness, looks good
Cleaned inner bellhousing, removed throwout bearing, pulled fork cleaned all and inspected.
Greased pivot ball, installed fork and new throwout bearing, greased input sleeve and splines (lightly).
installed new clutch and pressure plate with centering tool and torqued to 14 ftlbs.

Break for lunch
 

· DILLIGAF
Joined
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After lunch, installed the transaxle.
Installed the drivers side axle, bolted up the lower ball joint.
Installed the hosed to the rack & Pinion
Installed the big bolts that hold the lower cross member in place and also installed the front cross brace.
Installed the three motor mounts that were removed.
removed all the chains and cables holding the engine in place.
Installed the passenger side axle and ball joint.
connected both tie rods, and connected both sway bar rods.
Installed the tires, lowered the vehicle
Installed the shifter cables and lubed them
Installed the hydraulic slave cylinder for the clutch
Installed the wires, installed the air box and hoses and wires
Installed the battery box and battery
tried to start the car, no luck
Remembered need to install the starter and wires
Started the car, checked clutch, works fine
Topped off power steering, went for ride
Everything good!!!:banana:
 

· DILLIGAF
Joined
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In Hindsight, I think the Haynes manual gave me too much to do. I think I could have taken the Transaxle out without disconnecting the:
Tie Rods 2 nuts and cotter pins
Large K cross member 4 very large bolts
Steering hose from rack and Pinion steering gear.
and sway bar arms

I could have saved myself some time and a mess.
 

· Registered
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50 Posts
a few questions about clutch job

I'm in the middle of this very job - taking my time though. It's for a friend and we both have wheels so no rush. My question is: Why do all the motor mounts need to be removed and the engine supported if the engine isn't being moved? Did you have to lower it, tilt it, etc.? I understand supporting the engine with no support coming from the transaxle motor mount, but why the others? I'm new at this and don't get that part. Also, that starter confuses me a bit. I removed one big bolt but that metal to metal isn't prying off at all. Not sure about it.

Old post I know, but this is a huge job. Thx
 

· DILLIGAF
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
mox, dude, did you remove the lower engine cross member support? the curved one that runs under the engine and tranny that basically holds the front engine mount as well as the rear one?
Yes I did. Re-read my posts again. It tells what I pulled (mostly) and tells what I put back. At the end I told what I probably didn't need to do. I used a Haynes manual too. Good luck.
 

· Registered
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35 Posts
I've pulled my tranny three times, 2 for clutch and 1 for tranny replacement, the Haynes manual people are idiots. there is no need to remove the Transaxle, ive done it both times leaving it in, also there is no need to remove anything on the Suspension other then the ball joint, simply unbolt the ball joint from the bottom ( 1 bolt and 2 nuts ) once unbolted pull the entire assembly to the side, at this point the Axles should also pull from the transmission, turn wheel to move Axle out of way and tie off somewhere. though remember you will have to remove the Passenger side Axle input on the transmission otherwise it will catch on the engine. anyways there are so many tips i could give on cutting time while being safe, another is to simply take a jack and 2x4 to support the engine from below, works great.
 

· DILLIGAF
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The reason to support the engine from above, is you may have it on a vehicle lift like I did. That is why there is a metal jig that sits above the engine with chains and adjustable threaded rod to tighten and hold the engine.

The above post says, there is no need to remove the transaxle??? Maybe your definition of a transaxle is something different than mine. A transmission with axles is a transaxle, and it has to be removed to get at the clutch......
 

· Registered
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50 Posts
Well I trust both ways have worked. And while some of us take more time and do more steps, we always will just because it feels better I suppose. Either way. I opted to take off the crossmember after speaking with a local guy. I busted off the bolt that runs up through the passenger side of the rear engine mount. Crap!!!!! I'll have to punch it out - the head is flat, no bolt head. whereas, the other bolt on the other side of the mount (which does not run down through the crossmember) has a bolt head.
 
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