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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #1
The clutch on my 89 pickup won't disengage. Shifting became more and more difficult and finally reached the point where I couldn't get it in gear at all with the engine running. Replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder and bled the system. No improvement. Any suggestions?
 

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Bob, I'm a shade tree mechanic at best, but I'll make a SWAG. Could it be inside the trans itself, i.e. shift fork, throw out bearing, etc. As I say, I'm just throwing out things. Good luck.
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm coming to the same conclusion myself. My son and I replaced the clutch plate last fall and I don't recall replacing the throw out bearing. Not sure I have the energy to pull the tyranny again! Anyway to tell if it's the bearing before pulling it?
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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I'm coming to the same conclusion myself. My son and I replaced the clutch plate last fall and I don't recall replacing the throw out bearing. Not sure I have the energy to pull the tyranny again! Anyway to tell if it's the bearing before pulling it?

If you can get in gear while running either safely on jack stands or on a quite road you can usually hear a bad throw out bearing. Possible the fork came off or broke the pivot ball in the bell housing. I've see some diaphragm clutch plates fail or get weak and not disengage but not to common.
 

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I'm coming to the same conclusion myself. My son and I replaced the clutch plate last fall and I don't recall replacing the throw out bearing. Not sure I have the energy to pull the tyranny again! Anyway to tell if it's the bearing before pulling it?
I get it my Tar Heel brother. As I get more mature the heavy stuff is left to someone with the tools, and lift to get to that kind of stuff. Now I just stick to brake pads (not shoes), and and occasional shock absorber, etc. But, as of the last shock I installed it may very be the last one of those I mess with. :smile:
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip! I can't get it in gear with the engine running, but I can start the engine with it already in gear. If I ran it up the driveway or up the street, do you think I would hear a bad bearing?
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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Thanks for the tip! I can't get it in gear with the engine running, but I can start the engine with it already in gear. If I ran it up the driveway or up the street, do you think I would hear a bad bearing?
You should be able too hear it. The strange thing about throw-out bearings unless they totally separate even an extremely bad noisey one will work well enough for a long time.
I think the pivot ball or the fork itself failed.
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tip. If I slide the boot out of the way, can I see the pivot ball? If I remove the slave cylinder, can I replace the picot ball without pulling the transmission? The fork seems pretty hefty. Do they fail often?
 

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Thanks for the tip. If I slide the boot out of the way, can I see the pivot ball? If I remove the slave cylinder, can I replace the picot ball without pulling the transmission? The fork seems pretty hefty. Do they fail often?
With the boot off you maybe able to see "something" with perhaps the right combo of light and mirrors or with no pressure being applied to the fork by the slave move it with your hands or pliers.You won't be able to actually depress the clutch that way but it might give you an idea if the fork is sloppy on the pivot due to wear on both parts.
Usually if that"s the case the slop takes up all the travel the slave can produce and the clutch won't disengage.
I used to put V8's in those trucks and we machined an adapter to keep the Toyota transmission. I might have seen one fork fail at the attachment point on to the pivot. Did see some throw-out bearings that were never installed properly that damaged a fork and eventually the bearing. None of the parts we're talking about can be replaced without pulling the transmission down, can't recall if on your truck weather you could just take the drive shaft out and remove the shifter and slide it backwards enough to do those types of repairs At 200k miles I put a clutch assembly in my T100, in my I considered it preventive since I was having no issues. Only thing I found was the throw-out bearing was on it's last leg but not making any noise yet. Pivot and fork were fine
 

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With the boot off you maybe able to see "something" with perhaps the right combo of light and mirrors or with no pressure being applied to the fork by the slave move it with your hands or pliers.You won't be able to actually depress the clutch that way but it might give you an idea if the fork is sloppy on the pivot due to wear on both parts.
Usually if that"s the case the slop takes up all the travel the slave can produce and the clutch won't disengage.
I used to put V8's in those trucks and we machined an adapter to keep the Toyota transmission. I might have seen one fork fail at the attachment point on to the pivot. Did see some throw-out bearings that were never installed properly that damaged a fork and eventually the bearing. None of the parts we're talking about can be replaced without pulling the transmission down, can't recall if on your truck weather you could just take the drive shaft out and remove the shifter and slide it backwards enough to do those types of repairs At 200k miles I put a clutch assembly in my T100, in my I considered it preventive since I was having no issues. Only thing I found was the throw-out bearing was on it's last leg but not making any noise yet. Pivot and fork were fine
Which transmission G or W series, 2wd or 4x4? How many miles without issues since you did the last clutch job.
Keep looking but the pressure plate and the wear on the parts you don't recall replacing may have wore to the point that the slave can't push the fork far enough. Did you have the flywheel resurfaced back then?

Just throwing things out there since I'm not in your driveway:)
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #11
My son and I are planning to pull the transmission this weekend. My truck has a welded cross member, so you can't "drop" the transmission, but when we replaced the clutch, we were able to remove the shifter and rear mount and slide the transmission back far enough to replace the disk. I'm assuming we can get it back far enough to work on the the bearing, fork and pivot.
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the post. My truck is 2wd. Don't know the transmission series. Replaced the clutch disk last fall. The problem is just as you describe it: Slave pushes the fork, just not far enough to completely disengage the clutch.



While it was getting harder and harder to shift and get in reverse, it actually failed suddenly in a parking lot as I tried to start it. After that it wouldn't even turn over and I had it towed home. Turns out the clutch peddle no longer pushed the starter switch far enough and I've had to duct-tape it "on". Do you think there's any possibility that something happened to the peddle and/or linkage? It's hard to get a perfect view up under the dash, but, aside from the starter issue, everything appears OK.
 

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Thanks for the post. My truck is 2wd. Don't know the transmission series. Replaced the clutch disk last fall. The problem is just as you describe it: Slave pushes the fork, just not far enough to completely disengage the clutch.



While it was getting harder and harder to shift and get in reverse, it actually failed suddenly in a parking lot as I tried to start it. After that it wouldn't even turn over and I had it towed home. Turns out the clutch peddle no longer pushed the starter switch far enough and I've had to duct-tape it "on". Do you think there's any possibility that something happened to the peddle and/or linkage? It's hard to get a perfect view up under the dash, but, aside from the starter issue, everything appears OK.
On the T100's the pedal bracket itself would fail, on my 1995 the bracket side tore from one edge on the side almost to the center of that side of the bracket. Truck did just what yours did. I replaced the MC and Slave, no change but while under the dash saw the tear in the bracket. When I pushed on the pedal the bracket lost it's leverage and basically pulled apart enough that the clutch wouldn't disengage. Cheap and easy fix once I found it. Have your son crawl in there from the passenger side with a good light and then you can depress the pedal and see if it's solid or things are flexing. Another failure point is the firewall where the MC bolts on, fine cracks radiate out and then the firewall flexs enough that the MC doesn't push enough fluid to force the slave out enough to disengage. Type of transmission should be on the sticker on the driver's door jam. I.E w56 or possibly even a r151, don't think the 2wd had a G model. I was looking at some diagrams and was thinking maybe the mounting tabs on the throw-out bearing failing, just another guess!
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #14
OK, I removed the lower dash cowling to get a better view (still not great!). Peddle seems pretty solid. Next time my son is here we'll do what you suggest. What should I look for? Is there a diagram of the peddle assembly? You said it was a simple fix. What's involved? Thank you so much for your help (and patience!)
 

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OK, I removed the lower dash cowling to get a better view (still not great!). Peddle seems pretty solid. Next time my son is here we'll do what you suggest. What should I look for? Is there a diagram of the peddle assembly? You said it was a simple fix. What's involved? Thank you so much for your help (and patience!)
Not sure if your truck had this issue. In the T100 the original one was usually a grayish color an dthe replacement part from Toyota was black. When mine failed it tore almost in the center of one of the sides.When ya pushed on the pedal the entire bracket would twist not allowing enough travel to force the MC to do all it could to disengage the clutch. Thing is as you mentioned when I looked under the dash the tear was closed up and not notice-able until someone depressed the pedal. 4 bolts and the bracket and pedal drops out so you can take it apart on a bench. The MC has to be pulled back but I didn't have to take the lines off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=55107-34030+"Support+sub-Assy"&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=2he9UxLcxt6yRM%3A%2CsMErvJsLsg-zeM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQkmWbX9E6npXVl7_p-TyCkfCusHw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjJtNSD0r7jAhXPIzQIHWhkBs8Q9QEwCXoECAYQDg#imgrc=2he9UxLcxt6yRM:&vet=1
 

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My grandsons '94 had the ol' pedal bracket crack which apparently was a very common issue, causes insufficient travel at the throwout lever due to all the flexing at the pedal. Should be pretty easy to see when the clutch pedal is worked. The crack at the left side of the bracket will open up as you push the pedal. Make sure the pedal has full travel also, that there's no mats or bunched carpet hindering it's push to the floor.
 

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1989 Pickup
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Discussion Starter #17
Finally had my son look up at the bracket with a strong light. Sure enough, large crack! (see picture). Thanks so much for your post. Saved us pulling the transmission for no reason. Removed the bracket (watched the YouTube video "1990 Toyota pickup, cracked clutch pedal bracket" on how to pull the bracket which really help, especial indicating the steering column had to be lowered.) Bracket now in the shop being welded!
 

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Finally had my son look up at the bracket with a strong light. Sure enough, large crack! (see picture). Thanks so much for your post. Saved us pulling the transmission for no reason. Removed the bracket (watched the YouTube video "1990 Toyota pickup, cracked clutch pedal bracket" on how to pull the bracket which really help, especial indicating the steering column had to be lowered.) Bracket now in the shop being welded!
Beats yanking the tranny again! Let us know the final outcome.Thanks for the Pic!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, Had the bracket welded at the local radiator shop. It's now back in and the truck is on the road! Thanks to everyone for their posts. One caution to anyone else doing this: the two clutch cylinder studs that go through the firewall got spread somewhat during the weld. Save yourself some time by making sure the cylinder bracket slides overover the studs BEFORE you put the clutch bracket back in the truck! Also, I'm concerned that something strong enough to tear the original bracket could tear the weld just as easily. At least if it happens again, I'll know what to look for and how to fix it.
 
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