Toyota Nation Forum banner

21 - 40 of 82 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
The freeways are always jam packed loool, i always see a huge line to go to the 710 as well as the 10 depending where I'm going.

Small question, can a high idle result from cleaning the throttle body? I'm still struggling to find the cause of my above average idle. I tested all the hoses I could individually as well as altogether (soap water individually and propane for altogether) for vacuum leaks and all seemed good..
Could fixing my exhaust leak + cleaning my slightly gunked TB cause the idle to jump like 200rpm in park/ neutral?

I'll keep testing in the mean time and hopefully all ends well haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Still failed low speed NOx though, not sure why the levels are so absurdly high.

Update
EGR vacuum modulator was no good so I replaced that and it helped with my idle a bit. I wonder if that was giving me the high nox on the 15mph test...the absurd high nox wouldn't be a catalytic converter issue no? Since it's so low on the 25mph test.
Any ideas would be appreciated aha..
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
EGR reduces combustion temperatures which will cut NOx production - I could definitely see that making a difference.

The cat affects NOx emissions as well, but I'd imagine you'd have elevated levels of all three types of emissions if you had problems with your cat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.
 

·
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
Joined
·
8,254 Posts
Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.
EGR is there SPECIFICALLY to lower NOx emissions. That very well could be the issue there.

For the hesitation, it is probably the ignition coil. It is inside the distributor and often cracks, causing a weak spark.

-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Yeah so I'm hoping the vacuum modulator being faulty was affecting in some way, but I can't see it affecting it by a factor of 500..maybe though.
I'm just trying to find a cheaper smog place that also gives free retesting on failure lol..so far only Culver City.

Might try changing the fuel filter since I have some weird hesitation/ hunting and bogging occurring in low rpm in 1st and second gear when accelerating. Probably about time too since I think it's the factory fuel filter.

Sometimes I wish California emissions laws were just a tad bit more lenient though.
EGR is there SPECIFICALLY to lower NOx emissions. That very well could be the issue there.

For the hesitation, it is probably the ignition coil. It is inside the distributor and often cracks, causing a weak spark.

-Charlie
Oh okay hopefully all is good then as far as emissions.

As for the coil I actually had it replaced about a month ago when I had brought my car in for annual tune-up. My uncle said it was broken and was surprised my car started lol! But I had it replaced with along with my distributor, plugs and wires, main seals and t-belt.
If it was an ignition coil I'd be very surprised as it's been only a month since it's been replaced.

I should mention its not bad hesitation (usually when engine is cold and only in low/ first) and the hunting/ surging is more common, which occurs when accelerating and the car is in second usually.
The rpms jump around by about 200 or so. This is when the engine is still not fully warmed up, when it is warm it's still there but less noticeable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Changed the fuel filter for good measure but haven't driven it yet. I cracked the top bolt with the longest thing I had (an old torque wrench) and it came off easy peasy.

The bottom fitting was a whole different monster. Lord have mercy. I soaked that sucker in penetrating fluid and struggled for an hour whilst stripping the crap out of it lol. Finally got it off with vice grips, wish I tried that first. Had to cut a small portion of the fuel line (just where it's flared) and replace the fitting, then reflare. I'm guessing the fuel filter was the original one since it was so dang stuck.

The last thing that gave me that much trouble was the manifold bolts about a year ago...rust is terrible..

Now going to hopefully give smog another shot this weekend when there's time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Went for a drive finally, and there is still some hesitation/ surging but a lot less than before. It's mostly when pushing the pedal around 30 - 40% and I haven't experienced it from 50% - wot. Mostly it's when the car is from a cold start (and first maybe 5 minutes of driving) and in 1st & 2nd.
I'll keep the ignition coil in mind but it's only a 2 month old oem so I'd still be surprised.

Besides that could it be a small air leak on the intake hose/ snorkel?

I think everything is in fairly optimal condition seeing as a fair amount of parts have been replaced/ serviced recently and I've both used seafoamed and fuel cleaner semi recently. But Im fairly satisfied with the results from changing the fuel filter (my idle fixed surprisingly, and less hesitation/ surging), and the problems left are things I can live with but I'd still like to get to them eventually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Well today was up and down lol. CEL came back on after about 500-600 miles and threw a code 26 again. I'll clean the tps a little better again and I noticed cracks in the intake snorkel forming so I'll probably ghetto patch those for now until I get a new one.
Checked the voltages for the O2 sensor and I got readings all over the place.
Using the dlc1 port I got .040 v
Checking o2 sensor connector to battery ground I got .125 v
And checking the ecu side wire I got -.1v
These are prob just saying the car is running rich though.
Not sure what else to do at this point.
I'm not super mechanically inclined (I'm an artist lol) but I feel like I've checked and fixed as much as I could.
-cleaned TB 3(?) Times
-lightly cleaned tps
-checked for vac leaks (tho the new big crack on intake snorkel is a concern now)
-cleaned egr valve
-replaced EGR modulator
-replaced broken O2 sensor (I've been using universal ones due to space but I'm confident the wires are connected good)
-lastly I did run a bottle of gumout regane recently

Not sure what my options are, just thinking about taking it for a tune up when I get my tires aligned to see if the techs can figure it out since the tool access is much broader than mine.

Thanks for all the help everyone though it's been quite a good learning process. Any further help would still be appreciated 🙂
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
Well today was up and down lol. CEL came back on after about 500-600 miles and threw a code 26 again. I'll clean the tps a little better again and I noticed cracks in the intake snorkel forming so I'll probably ghetto patch those for now until I get a new one.
Checked the voltages for the O2 sensor and I got readings all over the place.
Using the dlc1 port I got .040 v
Checking o2 sensor connector to battery ground I got .125 v
And checking the ecu side wire I got -.1v
These are prob just saying the car is running rich though.
Not sure what else to do at this point.
I'm not super mechanically inclined (I'm an artist lol) but I feel like I've checked and fixed as much as I could.
-cleaned TB 3(?) Times
-lightly cleaned tps
-checked for vac leaks (tho the new big crack on intake snorkel is a concern now)
-cleaned egr valve
-replaced EGR modulator
-replaced broken O2 sensor (I've been using universal ones due to space but I'm confident the wires are connected good)
-lastly I did run a bottle of gumout regane recently

Not sure what my options are, just thinking about taking it for a tune up when I get my tires aligned to see if the techs can figure it out since the tool access is much broader than mine.

Thanks for all the help everyone though it's been quite a good learning process. Any further help would still be appreciated 🙂
Well since you noticed the intake tube cracks that could be a portion of it, but the universal O2 and the connection I believe is the issue. My 4afe I had threw 25, 26 but someone had cut the harness and twisted the wires together for the o2. Now it makes me wonder if it was a universal one.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Well since you noticed the intake tube cracks that could be a portion of it, but the universal O2 and the connection I believe is the issue. My 4afe I had threw 25, 26 but someone had cut the harness and twisted the wires together for the o2. Now it makes me wonder if it was a universal one.....
I could try replacing and actually soldering the wires perhaps but it's a crimp style connector and it seemed solid but it probably wouldn't hurt to double check.
Hopefully when I get some time I can take a look at it again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
I could try replacing and actually soldering the wires perhaps but it's a crimp style connector and it seemed solid but it probably wouldn't hurt to double check.
Hopefully when I get some time I can take a look at it again!
Soldering is better any day over crimping, IMO.

You could always grab a used one from the yard and the connector and see if that changes anything

And I've taken HVAC ducting tape (not the grey stuff everyone is thinking of) and wrapped the intake tube, cool thing is once the engine bay got to temp it shrunk the tape to the tube. Never got a new one, you couldn't tell it had the tape on it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Soldering is better any day over crimping, IMO.

You could always grab a used one from the yard and the connector and see if that changes anything

And I've taken HVAC ducting tape (not the grey stuff everyone is thinking of) and wrapped the intake tube, cool thing is once the engine bay got to temp it shrunk the tape to the tube. Never got a new one, you couldn't tell it had the tape on it
I'll prolly give it a whirl then, it'll let me practice my terrible soldering skills haha. I've thought of nabbing a connector, maybe if all else fails I will since its extra cheap.

As for the HVAC tape, your not talking about the aluminum type I take it? What other kinds are there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
I'll prolly give it a whirl then, it'll let me practice my terrible soldering skills haha. I've thought of nabbing a connector, maybe if all else fails I will since its extra cheap.

As for the HVAC tape, your not talking about the aluminum type I take it? What other kinds are there?
It's been at least a decade since I had it. I swear it was like electrical tape, black, but about 4.5in wide. I said like electrical tape, this stuff didn't get gooey and sticky. I lost that roll at one point, never have found anything like it.

I use a small pencil torch to solder most wires, it's a tad faster than an iron/gun
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
It's been at least a decade since I had it. I swear it was like electrical tape, black, but about 4.5in wide. I said like electrical tape, this stuff didn't get gooey and sticky. I lost that roll at one point, never have found anything like it.

I use a small pencil torch to solder most wires, it's a tad faster than an iron/gun
Hmm I've seen some stuff at home Depot called hvac duct tape and it's black, but not sure if it's the same stuff haha. It's only like 9$ per roll if you remember the price, I might consider some of that just because it seems handy for stuff around the home too.

I actually found a pencil torch while helping clear out a warehouse (along with a ton of old domestic shop manuals and stuff). Though I'm fairly clumsy so I'm not sure if I would trust myself not to light something on fire lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
Hmm I've seen some stuff at home Depot called hvac duct tape and it's black, but not sure if it's the same stuff haha. It's only like 9$ per roll if you remember the price, I might consider some of that just because it seems handy for stuff around the home too.

I actually found a pencil torch while helping clear out a warehouse (along with a ton of old domestic shop manuals and stuff). Though I'm fairly clumsy so I'm not sure if I would trust myself not to light something on fire lol!
I honestly couldn't tell you the price, I got whatever was left on the roll. The home depot stuff could do it but I wouldn't depend on the tape to permanently fix it.

Time and patience is how I learned to solder, I use an iron when needed but most wires I just use the flame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
I honestly couldn't tell you the price, I got whatever was left on the roll. The home depot stuff could do it but I wouldn't depend on the tape to permanently fix it.

Time and patience is how I learned to solder, I use an iron when needed but most wires I just use the flame
Hmm okay, I wouldn't be using it for a permanent fix either, just until I got a new hose replacement haha.

As for soldering it's more a combination of my carpal tunnel and wrist injuries that give me the shakes, mix that with my sometimes clumsiness and it's quite a chore lol!
 

·
Senior TN Member
Joined
·
7,508 Posts
No, you cannot solder O2-sensor wire! Use crimp only because the sensor uses the air-gap between wire strands to sample outside air as reference signal.

The -0.1v at ECU shows a ground loop problem. Check all grounds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
No, you cannot solder O2-sensor wire! Use crimp only because the sensor uses the air-gap between wire strands to sample outside air as reference signal.

The -0.1v at ECU shows a ground loop problem. Check all grounds
Great info, sucks tho, I hate crimp connectors.
 
21 - 40 of 82 Posts
Top