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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
-One month update-

No more additional problems so far, about 500 miles driven on both freeway and street, long and short trips.
Checked as much of the grounds as I could and had my uncle take a look too and everything seemed to be in order.

-Things I've done since-
-Change intake snorkel/ hose and applied rtv silicone to each end as a precaution (the old one cracked bad on the intake manifold side)
-Changed fuel filter
-install trans cooler for summer Cali weather
-ran a bottle of gumout regane
-acquired 7 (yes 7) Beretta mesh alloys (looking to sell the 3 that aren't in the best condition)
-jerry rigged the stock heat shield to cover headers (mostly to insulate some of the rubber hoses from heat)

So far everything is ok code wise, but the biggest problem I still have is the hesitation when the car hasnt been driven for at least 5 mins (transmission fluid not warmed up or too viscous?).

Unfortunately went to a diff smog place and although I passed the smog check (nox went from 700 to 300!!) I failed the visual...
Old place didn't care so I'll probably go back.

New place didn't pass since my engine bay looks like this (image attached).

Hopefully after smog I can focus on the hesitation problem. Thinking of switching to synthetic trans fluid? (Royal purple maybe?)
 

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Toyota Collector
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That probably looks 10 times better than most of the heaps they see at their shop. RP ATF is damn good stuff, another consideration is Amsoil I'm going to try some next maintenance.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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You can just remove that catch can to pass... though it also looks like your main cat is replaced with a straight pipe? What did you fail visual for?

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Yeah my uncle said his team was surprised it was not crusty as heck when I went for a tune-up lol!
Not sure when I should change my a/t fluid since it's only half a year old ATM. My tranny whines a little bit too but I'm assuming it's all related.

As for the catch can I made it since the pcv hose broke and I was too lazy to buy one (making a catch can is probably significantly more effort tho...)
The exhaust manifold is the obx ss header for the celica, so there's no primary cat.
I failed the visual because of the color of the hosing going to the catch can, the silver tape on my intake hose and maybe the header.
The place seemed like they would be lenient though, but the old place didn't care so I might go back there since I know I'll pass the smog portion now.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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I'm not sure how you thought you would *EVER* pass a smog check with a header there - visual or tailpipe. If you have a CA emissions Camry, there is a secondary O2 sensor that has to be in place AFTER a cat (or have a simulator in place, but that's a whole different deal). If that isn't plugged in and happy, you will never get the check engine to stay off. These are kind of things that need to be reported in the post so that we can actually help you...

As for the catch can... just run any old black hose in place of the crankcase vent hose. There is no PCV valve on the (Camry) 3s-fe anyway.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
I'm not sure how you thought you would *EVER* pass a smog check with a header there - visual or tailpipe. If you have a CA emissions Camry, there is a secondary O2 sensor that has to be in place AFTER a cat (or have a simulator in place, but that's a whole different deal). If that isn't plugged in and happy, you will never get the check engine to stay off. These are kind of things that need to be reported in the post so that we can actually help you...

As for the catch can... just run any old black hose in place of the crankcase vent hose. There is no PCV valve on the (Camry) 3s-fe anyway.

-Charlie
Some of the smog places I went to didn't care really about the header as long as it was one of the only things done (what they actually told me and it really surprised me). As for the CA stuff I replaced the secondary cat with a larger one since I deleted the primary cat, as well as I moved the downstream O2 sensor further down. So I still have both my sensors.
Me trying to pass emissions was really to just see if it's possible and ATM it looks doable.

I know there isn't a pcv valve, my bad if I said, it's just I haven't bought black tube yet and it was a fun project to make the catch can. Most places didn't care about the catch can though.

At this point I'm not too concerned about any of that though since I know the places that will pass me visually and I know now that I can pass the emissions part as well.
The most concerning thing is my transmission whine to be honest but that's taking the back burner til I redo smog check.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Some of the people didn't care really about the header but I replaced the secondary cat with a larger one, as well as moved the O2 sensor further down. So I still have both my sensors.
I know there isn't a pcv valve, my bad if I said, it's just I haven't bought black tube yet
Those shops that don't care about that stuff are the ones that will get you flagged as a gross polluter (if they get caught passing illegal cars), requiring much more difficult smog checks in the future... just an FYI. It has happened to multiple friends of mine.

Since your cat is so far from the engine, do not turn off your car at the smog shop. You need to keep the exhaust HOT to keep the cat working to pass the tailpipe tests. This is the issue my Alltrac has (single cat about where the shifter is). And yes, I understand the irony of telling you about how to pass smog when my car is the way it is... :hi:

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Some of the people didn't care really about the header but I replaced the secondary cat with a larger one, as well as moved the O2 sensor further down. So I still have both my sensors.
I know there isn't a pcv valve, my bad if I said, it's just I haven't bought black tube yet
Those shops that don't care about that stuff are the ones that will get you flagged as a gross polluter (if they get caught passing illegal cars), requiring much more difficult smog checks in the future... just an FYI. It has happened to multiple friends of mine.

Since your cat is so far from the engine, do not turn off your car at the smog shop. You need to keep the exhaust HOT to keep the cat working to pass the tailpipe tests. This is the issue my Alltrac has (single cat about where the shifter is). And yes, I understand the irony of telling you about how to pass smog when my car is the way it is... <img src="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wave.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Hi" class="inlineimg" />

-Charlie
Oh that's good info to have, I didn't know that.
I made some edits to my post too since I'm simultaneously playing video games haha.

It's all good though I'm just being nuts trying to pass smog in the first place with this stuff lol!
 

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Good job on finding intake leak! Some tips for smog testing:

1. Really warm up cat, drive at least 15-minutes. Then last block before shop, left-foot brake so you can floor it that final block to really heat it up!

2. Make appointment so you can just drive in without any waiting. Do not turn off engjne! If you do have to wait, leave engine running!

3. Use 4:1 gas:denatured alcohol mix. The alcohol carries along its own oxygen supply, so it burns cleaner. It also burns cooler, thus lowering NOx even more. Probably will lower your readings down to 150.

4. Pull out some ignition timing. In CA, you're allowed +/- 3-degree variation from stock. So if base-timing is 10-dregrees, set it to 7-degrees. This lowers combustion temps even more and will lower you NOx readings down to 100

BTW - what brand/model ignition coil is in your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Passed smog woohoo.
Now that that's out of the way I have a lingering question.
Could a loose or bad gas cap also cause the codes to be thrown? One of the causes for the codes was listed as fuel line pressure. So I'm wondering if that's a possibility.
I also get a whiff of a gasoline smell every once in a while, though it doesn't seem to be from the gas cap area..corroded fuel line maybe?


Also the ignition coil is Toyota brand, not sure on the model, I'd have to check. But I got it replaced at Toyota so it should be their on stuff..
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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A loose/bad gas cap won't cause any check engine lights. Fuel line pressure is referencing the fuel pressure at the injectors - so that would be a bad fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
A loose/bad gas cap won't cause any check engine lights. Fuel line pressure is referencing the fuel pressure at the injectors - so that would be a bad fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

-Charlie
Ah ok I misinterpreted then, thanks for the clarification.
Wondering if I should it looked at eventually then..

The gas smell still bothers me a little, but it could be one of the various old gas run lawn care stuff that's sitting around to haha...

For now everything (regarding my CEL & smog) is okay...
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....Though I do have some issues with my current muffler setup but I'll probably make a separate post for that eventually xD
 

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No because code comes from up-stream O2-sensor detecting AFR isn't correct. Primarily determined by temp, TPS & flow sensors and fuel-pressure. Everything else makes minor or no contributions to AFR.

If you're still getting -0.1v from O2-sensor, then wiring-problem still exists and ECU is getting erroneous data.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Well it's been off for a while and when it went on last, it went away on its own, but i'll have everything double checked in case.
I'm significantly less concerned at the moment since smog is done with and when I being my car in for tune ups or tire alignments etc I have the luxury of a full service being done for free heh heh..I'm scheduled to have my tires aligned soon is why.
Got me some new Beretta wheels but still deciding on tire size.

Hopefully though at some point I can move the bung on my header (or mill the flange at an angle) and use a better O2 sensor than the cheap Bosch one (hopefully use an oem one next), which seems to be a bit fragile and may be part of my problems..
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Bringing this back from the dead, but I hit a bump (wasn't particularly bad) and the CEL came back on, sure enough, code 26 lol. Should I just get a new new o2 sensor at this point, or should I be looking for loose connections? I havent had a CEL since my last post on here, so it's bugging me a little bit.

I'm getting good continuity, voltage, etc readings as well...but I've driven through LAs crap roads a bunch of times no problem..starting to doubt my prior thoughts lol.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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You can try unplugging and re-plugging the O2 sensor connector(s) and the ECU connectors. Also, check the harness below the throttle body where it passes by the EGR tube - sometimes that can burn a hole in the insulation and cause problems.

-Charlie
 

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When was the last time the plugs were changed, or checked? The color of the plugs will tell you if it is lean, normal, rich for any given cylinder.


Although you changed the EGR, did you check to see if the EGR tube wasn't blocked within the pipe whilest doing the EGR work?


As for the bouncing idle speed, the throttle body should be taken apart and cleaned so the plate is clean and not sticking or blocking flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
When was the last time the plugs were changed, or checked? The color of the plugs will tell you if it is lean, normal, rich for any given cylinder.


Although you changed the EGR, did you check to see if the EGR tube wasn't blocked within the pipe whilest doing the EGR work?


As for the bouncing idle speed, the throttle body should be taken apart and cleaned so the plate is clean and not sticking or blocking flow.
Hello, late reply sorry! My plugs were changed last service (last year) with ngk iridiums, and wires/ distributor were changed with oem Toyota parts.
Egr tube was cleaned, and all ports checked.
Throttle plate was cleaned when I had to change throttle body gasket.

Most everything was ok until recently when I threw a code 27 (CA emissions only).
I'm assuming it's because I took off the catalytic converter, though I did do the 90° bend spark plug no fouler trick. Just hoping it isn't the o2 sensor wire that's just kinda dangling under my car...
I think the code 26 is from my main o2 sensor having a bad connection. I hate Bosch stuff now lol.
 

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If hitting bump caused code to come back, that's just confirmation you've got wiring problem somewhere. Nothing to do with the parts. It's wiring in between. We already know that from the -0.1v output from O2-sensor. Replacing O2-sensor won't do thing (don't kill messenger). There's a frayed wire somewhere that's touching something that it shouldn't be. With all previous wrangling, the short may have been moved away, but bump just moved it back into contact.

Many failures occur at where wire goes into connector. This causes stress-riser and any movement of wire (bumps, wind, etc.) will eventually cause wire to break internally where it goes into connector. If you've got a coax cable, this causes inner signal wire to short out on outer braid. Again, not visible to eye, but can be detected and measured with multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
If hitting bump caused code to come back, that's just confirmation you've got wiring problem somewhere. Nothing to do with the parts. It's wiring in between. We already know that from the -0.1v output from O2-sensor. Replacing O2-sensor won't do thing (don't kill messenger). There's a frayed wire somewhere that's touching something that it shouldn't be. With all previous wrangling, the short may have been moved away, but bump just moved it back into contact.

Many failures occur at where wire goes into connector. This causes stress-riser and any movement of wire (bumps, wind, etc.) will eventually cause wire to break internally where it goes into connector. If you've got a coax cable, this causes inner signal wire to short out on outer braid. Again, not visible to eye, but can be detected and measured with multimeter.
Actually I think I didn't tighten my manifold flange good, I saw a tiny bit of smoke on startup. So it might be throwing off my o2 sensor readings lol! I have to re tighten the bolts.
Do you happen to know the torque for the exhaust manifold to down pipe bolts? On the tri bolt flange
 
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