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Gearhead User
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49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey!

I've been battling this code 52 thing for a while now, and it would be no problem except that I have done everything I can possibly think of to solve it with no success.

-Both sensors are showing infinate ohms, not shorted inside. Should be good as far as the research I have done.

-The circuit going back to the ECU tests out at 0 ohms resistance to ground on all 4 wires.

-If I unplug the wires at the ECU the pins are all 0 ohms to ground.

What is this cars problem, or what is my problem here, I cant see anything wrong with the system except perhaps the ECU is fried.

Please post your educated advise.

Terry.
 

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MCH Engineer in training
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532 Posts
^5-2 is knock sensor if i remember correctly.....i could be wrong, if it is i feel your pain....i have either 5-2 or 5-3 which ever knock is related to and a 5-5 also a knock sensor problem...i have same exact problem as you, both wires read 0 ohms but i still get the code..in fact both sensors are brand new...never worked since installed, pisses me off but im too lazy and too poor to pay for new gaskets and go through all that work to see whats wrong with them. The worst part is im losing TUNZ of power with the mods ive done because it sticks in open loop mode...argh...i have yet to figure out a solution w/o cracking open the intake manifold
 

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Gearhead User
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49 Posts
It makes no sense.
Like I said, it could be the ECU, but I'm too cheap to go and buy another one to try it out. I hotwired the sensor wires into one known good sensor, and still trips code 52. What's up with that?!?!?!
If it was the actual sensors that were blown it would trip a 53 or 55(Bank1 or bank2 I think) Code 52 is knock sensor signal. What that means, who knows.

Maybe it is the ECU.

Somebody got a spare good ECU kicking around that I can borrow?? :) Hah!

Terry.


Actually, if someone does, all they would need to do is test the knock sensor pins at the ECU for continuity to ground, and that should solve the prob.
 

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Mad Scientist-In-Training
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918 Posts
I had a Knock Sensor code on my Gen 2 V6.

A large bottle of Chevron Techtron with a full tank of Sunoco 94 premium did the job.

On an empty tank; I disconnected the battery, poured in the Techtron, filled with Sunoco 94, then reconnected the battery.

After 5-10 miles of driving, the ECU took new air/fuel readings and the problem never came back.
 

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engineer in training
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1,586 Posts

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JUST RE ENGINEER IT
98 Prizum
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2,983 Posts
ok, get a timing lite on it, get it running and bring it up to 3 grand, shine the lite on the crank pulley and look for the notch, now bounce an extension on the motor somewhere near the knock sensor on the block itself and the timing should back down then go back up
 

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Gearhead User
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It wont work that way, the sensor is piezoelectric and is tuned to only pick up frequencies in the 7,000Hz range, unless you can hit your engine with that extension 7000 times in one minute that is.
 

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Camry / 2WD Pickup
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601 Posts
drducttape said:
It wont work that way, the sensor is piezoelectric and is tuned to only pick up frequencies in the 7,000Hz range, unless you can hit your engine with that extension 7000 times in one minute that is.
Or instead of hitting it 7000 times per second, you would just need to hit it in a place where it will set up a 7000 Hz vibration in the engine block. Good luck getting that to happen!
 

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Gearhead User
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49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The old Ford and Chev knock sensors worked on a piezoresistor type that resists a signal current fed to it by the computer, and they were not selective about the frequencies they would pick up, so anything loud (extension hitting block) and alter the timing accordingly whether it was detonation, or a loose valvetraiin, or whatever.
 
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