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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
91 camry le v6 firing off:

code 25/26: air fuel ration lean/rich

code 51: ac signal on; dl signal off (in tray shifter with diagnostic connector jumped)

code 52: knock sensor fault

code 71: EGR system malfunction

looking for input/advice. this past week i've have all 3 belts replaced (timing belt includes idler and tensioner pulley, and belt hydraulic), thermostat and hose replaced, water pump and anti freeze replaced. was driving fine up until water pump was badly leaking, then everything was worked on. now, the check engine light has come one, and then went off on it's own, but i got the codes listed above. ii'm wondering if something is loose or not clamped on all the way. it's driving fine, although shifting from park to drive, etc is lagging a little bit.

i'm assuming 1) o2 sensor needs to be replaced or 2) there's a lot of carbon build up that i need to clean out.

do these seem like logical solutions without having to take the car to the shop again?
 

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Toyota Collector
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12,105 Posts
With that many codes I would suspect but not limited to things like:

timing belt installed wrong
connectors damaged/not plugged in
damaged/pinched wiring
broken temperature/vacuum sensors
loose battery cables
ignition timing

Did you have any codes before doing the work?
 

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☻Black Member
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1,423 Posts
knock sensor fault means the 25 year old knock sensor is toast..
the egr fault means the 25 year old components are worn/carbon filled
the lean/rich codes may be related to the above..
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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no, no codes before the work. the light only came one once since i've had it back, and has not returned.
You should also reset the ECU (pull the EFI fuse for a little while) to clear all the codes. If the problem comes back, you want all the old codes cleared so you can solve only the 'real' issue.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE: no check engine lights, no problem driving. however, two days ago i overheated (*note thermostat has been replaced) and i checked my coolant reservoir which was empty. imagine my surprise as it is not a week out of the shop. this morning i wipe everything down, take off splash shields, and find a very steady leak coming from what i believe to be the lower radiator hose. i assume it just needs to be tightened or replaced, which should be easy but i've never dealt with any metal hose on this car.

can anyone confirm this i.d. and/or have instructions on how to fix this?


thanks for everyone's feedback and advice thus far. this forum/website has been a great help to this new toyota owner.
*note attached photo part, circled are leaking points with the first/above circle being the most excessive leak*
 

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Toyota Collector
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12,105 Posts
The pipe to housing is sealed with an O-ring not something that normally leaks I'm wonder if RTV was used instead.
Lower rad hose
Hose clamp (better than screw clamp)
Lower rad hose (Rockauto)

The price difference between OEM and aftermarket is not enough to make buying aftermarket worth it IMO. Once the alternator is removed replacing the O-ring and hose is straight forward, the bottom hose clamp you'll probably have to access from under the car. Best practice to clean the aluminum surfaces with a Scotch-Brite pad.

 

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Civic Hatch
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Let the shop know of their mistake! It could cost you an engine! And they would be liable!
 
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