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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Camry, 94, v6, 175K, plugs fairly new and engine well maintained.

All of a sudden the car has a miss, when you hit the gas fairly hard it wants to die unless you let off quick, and the light came on-(Codes p1300 & p0303). I got it home by being very easy on the accelerator pulled the codes and did a search...

Which cylinder is #3, I want to switch the coil pack and see if the code changes...

Any other ideas, not sure about the p1300 and why it would show up with the P0303..Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks
Doug
 

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#3 is the middle cylinder in the rear bank. And I agree with your thought; try swapping the coil and see if the misfire goes with it. Coil failures are pretty common.

 

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The P1300 can be caused by a bad coil, and it usually is. The igniters rarely go bad. So I'd try the coil swap first, expecting the misfire to move with it. 1994 - that has a coil pack on top of every cylinder, right? Can you swap the #3 without removing the intake plenum?
 

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#3 is the middle cylinder in the rear bank. And I agree with your thought; try swapping the coil and see if the misfire goes with it. Coil failures are pretty common.

My car must be special, it still has the original coil covers lol.
 

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:lol: My Avalon still has all three original coils as well!

Actually the ignition system seems to be pretty good, judging by the posts I've read here over the last 4 years. But when there is a problem, it seems more often than not, it's a coil gone bad. I'd bet less than one in ten "help me fix my car" posts here involve ignition systems. Suspension & emission problems top the list, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just for jollies, last night I cleared the codes and went around the block, in my case that is about 6-7 miles, it threw a p1300 but not the p0303. So, today I switched the #3 & #6 coils, reseated the igniter connections and cleared the code. Went for the exact same ride and it threw a P1300 a couple hundred yards past where it did last night. Almost the same distance and the P0303 did not come back either. It seems to be temperature related, a definate miss and after it throws the code any kind of hard acceleration kills the motor unless you let off quick.

Any ideas?

Doug..

BTW: The igniter was hot so I took some freeze spray and cooled it down, did not change anything...
 

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I had a '94 V6 Camry last Dec that came from another shop. They threw in the towel and wanted a pro to take a stab at it. So I did.
They also gave me a known good ignitor that they tried, and I did the same. No luck there. Also, an ECM, but the part number was from a previous 1MZ.
What I really needed was an ecm that ended with the number 350, and known good one!!
Anyway, time and money ran out for this diagnosis and I had to throw in the towel also. I even posted here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...001/402239-1994-camry-1mz-no-start-stall.html
I'm willing to bet what would have fixed that car was a new ECM because I believe the drivers for the ignitor circuit in the ecm are the culprit.
I've seen this before and the 1994 model year Lexus and Toyota have ecm's that just get old and die out.
Sometimes you can open them up and see the melted capacitors, and circuit boards.
I bet it's your ecm alright if your parts swap doesn't work. Can you borrow one somewhere??

I just want to edit something here. If you can get the bottom timing cover off and get a good look at it for a wallowed out key way and missing teeth on the crank sprocket, (reluctor wheel that the crank sensor sees)) that would explain the p0300 with the p1300.
If that all looks 100%, then I'd try a ecm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tech,

Thanks, I saw your thread while I searched and read through it and you may very well be correct. I don't think it's wireing, seems temperature related and elecctronic boards can and do have thermal issues. I'm going to pursue normal troubleshooting and try to narrow it down befor I get to the bigger items.

see below,,

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK,

The jury is still out on this one but I must be one of the worlds greatest car mechanics, ..LOL...not really but here is what I did...

1) Swapped the 3 plugs and coils from the rear to the front, plugs looked pretty uniform but did have some deposits on the electrode ground, they have less than 10K on them. I did the whole job in 1 Hr/40min, including getting tools out and putting away..I think that's a good time considering where those back coils and plugs are...

2) Took it for a ride, could not get it to throw a code and it ran like a top. I even beat it up a little, purred like a kitten...This scares me because unless it had a loose connection, I didn't fix anything...hmm...Yout thoughts???

Also, On the coil packs, the screw that holds them down goes through some metal inside the coil pack..Is that a ground???? Or is the only electrics involved comming through the 2 wire connector.

Thanks
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: not good...

Car worked for a couple weeks then died again, p1300 only, I no longer get an individual coil code. Sometimes it dies like it is turned off, sometimes it misses a little first. To get it going I unplug the igniter and restart, sometimes it will die fairly quick, other times I can get 10+miles..The Igniter gets too hot to touch when there is an issue.

Got another igniter from fleabay, it did the same thing and I noticed that after 3-4 failures last night it was unbelievably hot, then I reset it again and ran the car. Ran for half an hour and the igniter cooled down as the car ran...

What can be causing the igniter to heat up? And what is my next step in troubleshooting?

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bamzip,

Thanks for the link, mine is the engine with six coils but it did give me some ideas on where to start, my battery ground is good-(new).

The car is now running-(not sure for how long), I think it is a bad connection. The other night a buddy and myself took it for a ride till it died, checked a bunch of things and reset it. We repeated this a few times, each time the igniter was too hot to touch. Last time I unpluged both sides of the igniter and reconnected, car ran fine, igniter cooled down, ran for half an hour. Last night I ran it for an hour, highway, round town, idle, air on/off, no issues and igniter got only slightly warm to the touch.

I have a set of igniter connectors that came with the igniter I bought so I'm going to splice them in-I have to try something because I know it's going to stop working again. I'm also thinking about putting a heat sink and fan on the ignitor, I'm in IT and get old computers all the time, it would be simple to do..What do you think??

DS
 
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