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'97t
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Discussion Starter #1
Cold starts are slow and sluggish but subsequent starts are near immediate. I replaced my fuel pump last month thinking it was a slowing pump but it has returned. I have searched and read about a check-valve on the rail that may be allowing drain back but cannot find the part. I have included the exploded for reference.

I will replace plugs next week, my only other guess is a leaky injector.
284943
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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The only thing else on the fuel rail besides the injectors would be the fuel pressure regulator. ;)

What engine do you have again? If you put yer vehicle specs in yer signature, it would really help. ;)
 

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1997 T100 RWD Auto
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70 Posts
Just adding this bit of info:

My truck experienced not only similar bad cold starts, but occasionally the starter would not engage at all (just a click when the key turned). It would take me a few tries to get it to engage.

The starter was an aftermarket one, so I bought a used OEM starter from eBay and used one of those rebuild kits on it. I also cleaned up all of my contacts and grounds.

The truck roars to life on every start now.

I have not changed my FPR, but during this summer I did track down and fix several cracked hoses causing vacuum leaks. I do not know if that helped the starting issues or not.
 

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'97t
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I hear you. If the starter isint the culprit now it will be soon regardless. Ill look into the repair kit, I believe I have a oem unit. I also just got out from under the beast(driveshafts, bushings, steering stabilizer and idler repair soon) and see a ground on the block near the oil filter that is coated in fluids...so Ill look into grounds too...

digio I have yet to have no starts. Did you have cold start issues and then no starts or were no starts always part of the mix?

Its baffling because its only on cold(engine) starts ie overnight or over 4 hrs

I also dont know what a failing fpr symptoms are. I assume the fpr limits the pressure and divert the rest back to tank so I could also, maybe, see how this could be an issue given time. I will hunt a good used one and test I presume.
 

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1997 T100 RWD Auto
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Its baffling because its only on cold(engine) starts ie overnight or over 4 hrs
That is exactly what mine would do. I would have to crank it over several times, as if it were not getting fuel. It was always in the morning or sitting for a long time.

Some mornings there would be a click, and my heart would sink, but a few tries would usually get it going. It started getting worse, and once or twice I had to whack the starter with a hammer and try again.

I new that starter was going to be re-done. Once I pulled it and saw it was a cheap after-market, I decided to go back to OEM. I think I paid $40 including shipping. The little kit was less than $10.00 and had the two contacts and a new plunger, but I did not use the plunger since the one in there looked ok and of better quality.

Once I had the new starter in, the difference in the strength of the cranking was noticeable.
 

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1997 T100 RWD Auto
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70 Posts
You probably already know this, but if your battery is old or worn it will have significantly less cranking power on a very cold morning.

I used to work in the mountains, and during winter-times there were always people who thought they needed new starters. A new battery was more often than not the cure.
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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'97t
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Discussion Starter #11
I stumbled across leaky injectors while researching and will try sea foam first. My van has leaky injectors and if the problem persists I have a place I will send them all!!

digio: is the retrofit just for the solinoid? I see a kit with plunger and four pieces....I also see that I can just get oem "L" shaped pieces from dealer too? Did you replace armature brushes too?

Looking to get all i need so no down time.

285102
519ekdGMvgL.jpg
 

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1997 T100 RWD Auto
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70 Posts
I stumbled across leaky injectors while researching and will try sea foam first. My van has leaky injectors and if the problem persists I have a place I will send them all!!

digio: is the retrofit just for the solinoid? I see a kit with plunger and four pieces....I also see that I can just get oem "L" shaped pieces from dealer too? Did you replace armature brushes too?

Looking to get all i need so no down time.

View attachment 285102 View attachment 285101

That looks similar to what I got. I did not use the plunger, but the copper bits were certainly in need of replacing. I did not replace the brushes (this time).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I went ahead and rebuilt the starter today. The copper deals were worn from the plunger and pitted. Amazingly the starter appears to be original at 280k. I bought a dorman kit that had all the little doodads but I wish I would have got the kit with the plunger as the back side of mine was worn and pitted. I sanded it smoothish. The main lug in the dorman kit is to small so i reused the oem one. The 4 gauge wire had no insulation so I re-insulated.

Definitely starts quicker and winter is coming so that is good. I still think it may be a leaky injector.


Will update
 
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