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Cold Start Temp Switch

2K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  Corrolla clone 
#1 · (Edited)
I’m going to be replacing the Cold Start Temp Switch 89462-20030 and the instructions I can find online call for thread sealant. Any recommendations for a sensor/coolant safe thread sealer?

Thanks, Eugene
 
#2 ·
Do you have the Toyota Repair Manual? It will list a part number for the sealant, then you can search for an equivalent.

The coolant safe is more important than the sensor safe part because the electronics are sealed inside metal. Permatex probably has something that will work.
 
#5 ·
I don't have my repair manual with me, so I can't look up torque values. I know the fan switch doesn't need sealant nor does the block drain plug. I'd just make it about as tight as the original, and check if the original had a washer. If it's going into aluminum be careful not to overtighten. Fill with coolant and check that it's not leaking and it should be fine. I don't think there's too much risk of it loosening by itself if it's not tight enough, it's just that it will leak/weep a very small smount of coolant. Check it again for leaking after a bit of driving if you can.
 
#7 ·
I'm not sure about the coolant types. You'd have to look up what is compatible. I've always used the regular Prestone green stuff in my 1990.
 
#9 ·
DexCool isn't the same as Toyota Red or Pink. I know there have been a lot of problems with DexCool turning to gel if it's mixed with other coolants or maybe with too much air trapped in the system.
 
#11 ·
I don't think you should bother changing it. It shouldn't be losing coolant, so there shouldn't be a need to top it up frequently. If it is losing coolant then figure out why. There shouldn't be a need for her to buy a whole jug of coolant. If there is then there's some sort of big problem.

If it does lose a little coolant over time then distilled water can be used without affecting the coolant/water ratio too much. Even a lot of water can be used temporarily if it's not freezing outside. Or you could leave a small container of red coolant with her if she were to need it and she can safely store it.
 
#13 ·
All the common coolants use ethylene glycol. The only real difference between the colors is the corrosion inhibitors. Phosphates, silicates, etc. And some of those are not compatible with certain metals or seals used by various manufactures. Then there's the universally compatible coolants that say they can be mixed with anything.

From what I gather mixing stuff with DexCool caused problems. Now everyone is afraid to mix any different coolants together, but that fear may be overblow. I haven't heard any stories where mixing coolants other than DexCool caused major problems. (Of course now someone will probably post something to prove me wrong!)
 
#17 ·
I've wondered how hard it is to start if the cold start switch or injector isn't working. It never gets super cold in Phoenix, so I can't test it. Mine does take a few seconds of cranking to first start whether it's 50F or 100F outside.
 
#18 ·
She said it had been taking longer to start over time. Tested it with the meter and definitely tested bad. Should have been between 20-40 ohms cold. Between 40-60 ohms if it’s warm. It started right up the first try after install and her face lit right up with a big smile.

I did read that the switch fails more than the CSI.
 
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