- This information is for the 2S Fuel injected 8 valve 4 cylinder N/A engine, equipped in most 1st Generation Camry's - I'm not sure if I will ever cover the turbodiesels or carbureted 2S models.
After owning my 1st gen for quite a few years now, I thought I'd put together a short guide concerning ownership. This guide will be edited and revised as more information becomes available.
This will cover common problems, features, model trim options, parts replacement/sourcing and more.
Firstly, BUY AN FSM!!! They're cheap as dirt on ebay and will be more help than any Chiltons or Haynes book.
Important quick-facts before we get started
The oil pump for the 3S fits on the 2S (as it should) but the pulley must be changed to the original 2S pulley. Most reman'd/rebuilt come with the 3S pulley so exercise caution if you choose to buy a new one. All of the parts are available on RockAuto to rebuild the original pump.
1983 thru mid 1985 Camry have a cylinder head that is different than the rest of the heads produced for the remainder of 85 thru 86. Pictures and more information on this topic are included further down.
The top transmission mount for both Automatic and Manual are different even though they appear very similar - RockAuto are trying to pass the Auto mounts as Manual right now. - I found my PO (Original Owner) had an Auto mount on the car. Apparently this doesn't cause any real issues as I drove it for a couple of years that way, I'm sure he did too.
The cam gear has two separate marks on it (depending on year) indicating valve timing for both USA and Canadian valve timing. The US timing is indicated by an "E" under the hole on the cam gear, whereas the CAN timing is 180 out and has no "E". IIRC This must be taken into consideration when setting ignition timing, as the Canadian spec is different. I'll find a solid answer on this one day. These marks are not in the FSM.
Be nice to the fasteners! The highest torque spec on this car is 137ft-lbs and that's for the CV axle nut. The rest are relatively low spec compared to alot of newer cars. So don't overtighten and use plenty of penetrant when removing fasteners.
Use copper core spark plugs for the love of mike. These cars will run like garbage with anything else. I like the NGK V powers.
Tune-up and maintenance intro and part numbers:
Spark plugs: ND - W16EXR-U11 / NGK BPR5EA-L11 or BPR5EY11 gapped to 1.1mm (0.043in)
M/T Fluid: This is up for debate. Toyota calls for ATF Dexron II or equivalent. I ran Valvoline Maxxlife and ended up losing 3rd gear in my previous transmission in less than a year. So I took a page out of Ford's book and used MERCON V ATF in my new transmission. My only reason for doing this is because it is also called for in my 2000 Explorer with a Mazda M5OD 5spd. Time will tell how this works out, but so far it's been great. (3000mi). If I have to throw another transmission in it, so be it. It would be worth it to learn what fluids work and what don't.
PS Fluid: I have had good luck with Supertech High Mileage ATF. Nothing special but it does the job.
Antifreeze/Coolant: Ethylene Glycol based coolants only. I use PEAK Asian Vehicles (Green Color)
Oil: ZDDP (Zinc/Phosphorous) is a great additive for these engines to reduce wear. Modern oils do not provide this kind of protection. Inexpensive and safe to use. Otherwise Castrol GTX Hi-Mi is my go to. I use 10W-30 in the warmer weather and 5W-30 in the winter time.
Gas cap: Change it. Even if you think it's good, put a new one on and make sure it locks (clicks) into place. This solved many small issues on my 1st gen concerning starting and fuel economy.
Idle Speed: M/T is listed at 700RPM and A/T at 750RPM
Ignition Timing:
1983-1985 - 5deg BTDC @ Max 950 RPM. (Vacuum advancer disconnected and capped) Approx 16deg BTDC w/ advancer connected.
1986 - 5deg BTDC @ Max 950 RPM with diagnostic terminals E1 - T1 jumped. No vacuum advance on these units.
1. Common engine Problems
a. Hard-starting in cold/damp weather - Inspect and replace ignition coil if needed. (NGK Brand preferred). If starting problem persists, the next course of action is to inspect/test/clean your cold start injector.
b. Oil leaks - At this age, all main seals should be replaced and the oil pan re-sealed. Do NOT use a gasket for the oil pan. Instead use Toyota FIPG #103. One key design flaw of the 2S engine is that the head and cam-housing are separate pieces. There is NO gasket to go between the head and cam housing, it must be sealed with FIPG #103. This is one of the main places that these engines will leak, and there is little to be done except to reseal the cam housing. At that point you may want to consider re-doing the whole top end since you're in there.
The main seals are very easy to replace, neither of them requiring a fancy service tool. If doing the front seal, you may as well inspect/replace your oil pump. There is also a gasket behind the pump body that often leaks due to age of the vehicle. (More on that later.) The oil cap is also a common place to leak if you have an original cap. The top of the cap will separate from the threaded portion and spew out oil.
c. Vacuum / air leaks - Every single "old-style" hose clamp should be promptly replaced with the "new-style" worm screw hose clamps. The most common places for leaks are: PCV plumbing, air valve plumbing, intake plumbing and vacuum lines. Go over all of this with a fine-tooth comb to ensure it's not the culprit of a different symptom, as a vacuum leak will cause some funny things to happen to these engines. I will eventually go more in-depth with this topic and provide some pictures.
d. High-idle / No idle drop when warm - Assuming all tune-up maintenance has been done and the engine has been gone over for vacuum leaks, the only thing really left is the "Air valve" this is a rudimentary IACV to control idle speed in cold weather. It's a silly gizmo but very simple mechanically. It's operation can be tested by measuring the resistance between the two terminals on the part (40-60ohms with engine hot).
If your air valve is operational and everything else is good to go but you still have a high idle, you can then adjust your idle via the screw on the TB. The screw is pretty sensitive, I went in 1/8th turn increments. If you do not have a tachometer in your cluster, you can find a timing light with an inductive tach or buy the type used for small engines. I use one on my garden tractor, it seems to work just fine.
e. Sudden no-crank, no lights, dead battery symptom - These cars will get an attitude every once in a blue moon where you'll hop in and turn the key with no joy. Simply disconnect and reconnect the battery. Be sure to test the battery first! The starting circuit is very simple so there's not much else to go wrong.
f. Blue puff of smoke after acceleration from a stop - 90% of the time it's going to be valve seals. Pretty easy job for anyone who's been under a valve cover a couple times.
g. Misfire or "Subaru" sound at idle/cold start - Recheck ignition timing and valve timing. These are tough engines that will run well on some pretty funny timing. I would say it's your discretion to change or keep the timing but I've ran my car this way for 4 years with no real issues. Not even poor MPG. I will get some numbers on where my timing is at exactly to post in this thread, I know of a few other 1st gen owners with this timing, and one even complaining of less power when he changed to stock timing. Just something I've never taken a harder look at given the car runs so well.
List is subject to change at any moment__
2. Parts sourcing
a. You won't be able to find everything you need at Autozone or Rockauto. For this I suggest searching eBay or my personal favorite www.hollanderparts.com otherwise it's off to the junkyard with you! Or better yet find a part's car!
b. Some parts will seem to be impossible to find, that's because they are. You're working on a reliable car that didn't sell in massive numbers for it's 1st generation. Every 1st gen out there either runs and drives or is already compressed into a giant steel cube, so if you find a parts car, or something off of another 1st gen that you want I highly suggest you go after it.
c. Nippon Denso or NGK should be your preferred brand when it comes to electrical parts. More power to anyone else who has good luck with other mfg's. Just stating what works best for me.
__
I'm going to cut this off for now (12-17-21) while I compile some more information about the rest of my topics. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask, or if you want me to cover something in particular let me know.
After owning my 1st gen for quite a few years now, I thought I'd put together a short guide concerning ownership. This guide will be edited and revised as more information becomes available.
This will cover common problems, features, model trim options, parts replacement/sourcing and more.
Firstly, BUY AN FSM!!! They're cheap as dirt on ebay and will be more help than any Chiltons or Haynes book.
Important quick-facts before we get started
The oil pump for the 3S fits on the 2S (as it should) but the pulley must be changed to the original 2S pulley. Most reman'd/rebuilt come with the 3S pulley so exercise caution if you choose to buy a new one. All of the parts are available on RockAuto to rebuild the original pump.
1983 thru mid 1985 Camry have a cylinder head that is different than the rest of the heads produced for the remainder of 85 thru 86. Pictures and more information on this topic are included further down.
The top transmission mount for both Automatic and Manual are different even though they appear very similar - RockAuto are trying to pass the Auto mounts as Manual right now. - I found my PO (Original Owner) had an Auto mount on the car. Apparently this doesn't cause any real issues as I drove it for a couple of years that way, I'm sure he did too.
The cam gear has two separate marks on it (depending on year) indicating valve timing for both USA and Canadian valve timing. The US timing is indicated by an "E" under the hole on the cam gear, whereas the CAN timing is 180 out and has no "E". IIRC This must be taken into consideration when setting ignition timing, as the Canadian spec is different. I'll find a solid answer on this one day. These marks are not in the FSM.
Be nice to the fasteners! The highest torque spec on this car is 137ft-lbs and that's for the CV axle nut. The rest are relatively low spec compared to alot of newer cars. So don't overtighten and use plenty of penetrant when removing fasteners.
Use copper core spark plugs for the love of mike. These cars will run like garbage with anything else. I like the NGK V powers.
Tune-up and maintenance intro and part numbers:
Spark plugs: ND - W16EXR-U11 / NGK BPR5EA-L11 or BPR5EY11 gapped to 1.1mm (0.043in)
M/T Fluid: This is up for debate. Toyota calls for ATF Dexron II or equivalent. I ran Valvoline Maxxlife and ended up losing 3rd gear in my previous transmission in less than a year. So I took a page out of Ford's book and used MERCON V ATF in my new transmission. My only reason for doing this is because it is also called for in my 2000 Explorer with a Mazda M5OD 5spd. Time will tell how this works out, but so far it's been great. (3000mi). If I have to throw another transmission in it, so be it. It would be worth it to learn what fluids work and what don't.
PS Fluid: I have had good luck with Supertech High Mileage ATF. Nothing special but it does the job.
Antifreeze/Coolant: Ethylene Glycol based coolants only. I use PEAK Asian Vehicles (Green Color)
Oil: ZDDP (Zinc/Phosphorous) is a great additive for these engines to reduce wear. Modern oils do not provide this kind of protection. Inexpensive and safe to use. Otherwise Castrol GTX Hi-Mi is my go to. I use 10W-30 in the warmer weather and 5W-30 in the winter time.
Gas cap: Change it. Even if you think it's good, put a new one on and make sure it locks (clicks) into place. This solved many small issues on my 1st gen concerning starting and fuel economy.
Idle Speed: M/T is listed at 700RPM and A/T at 750RPM
Ignition Timing:
1983-1985 - 5deg BTDC @ Max 950 RPM. (Vacuum advancer disconnected and capped) Approx 16deg BTDC w/ advancer connected.
1986 - 5deg BTDC @ Max 950 RPM with diagnostic terminals E1 - T1 jumped. No vacuum advance on these units.
1. Common engine Problems
a. Hard-starting in cold/damp weather - Inspect and replace ignition coil if needed. (NGK Brand preferred). If starting problem persists, the next course of action is to inspect/test/clean your cold start injector.
b. Oil leaks - At this age, all main seals should be replaced and the oil pan re-sealed. Do NOT use a gasket for the oil pan. Instead use Toyota FIPG #103. One key design flaw of the 2S engine is that the head and cam-housing are separate pieces. There is NO gasket to go between the head and cam housing, it must be sealed with FIPG #103. This is one of the main places that these engines will leak, and there is little to be done except to reseal the cam housing. At that point you may want to consider re-doing the whole top end since you're in there.
The main seals are very easy to replace, neither of them requiring a fancy service tool. If doing the front seal, you may as well inspect/replace your oil pump. There is also a gasket behind the pump body that often leaks due to age of the vehicle. (More on that later.) The oil cap is also a common place to leak if you have an original cap. The top of the cap will separate from the threaded portion and spew out oil.
c. Vacuum / air leaks - Every single "old-style" hose clamp should be promptly replaced with the "new-style" worm screw hose clamps. The most common places for leaks are: PCV plumbing, air valve plumbing, intake plumbing and vacuum lines. Go over all of this with a fine-tooth comb to ensure it's not the culprit of a different symptom, as a vacuum leak will cause some funny things to happen to these engines. I will eventually go more in-depth with this topic and provide some pictures.
d. High-idle / No idle drop when warm - Assuming all tune-up maintenance has been done and the engine has been gone over for vacuum leaks, the only thing really left is the "Air valve" this is a rudimentary IACV to control idle speed in cold weather. It's a silly gizmo but very simple mechanically. It's operation can be tested by measuring the resistance between the two terminals on the part (40-60ohms with engine hot).
If your air valve is operational and everything else is good to go but you still have a high idle, you can then adjust your idle via the screw on the TB. The screw is pretty sensitive, I went in 1/8th turn increments. If you do not have a tachometer in your cluster, you can find a timing light with an inductive tach or buy the type used for small engines. I use one on my garden tractor, it seems to work just fine.
e. Sudden no-crank, no lights, dead battery symptom - These cars will get an attitude every once in a blue moon where you'll hop in and turn the key with no joy. Simply disconnect and reconnect the battery. Be sure to test the battery first! The starting circuit is very simple so there's not much else to go wrong.
f. Blue puff of smoke after acceleration from a stop - 90% of the time it's going to be valve seals. Pretty easy job for anyone who's been under a valve cover a couple times.
g. Misfire or "Subaru" sound at idle/cold start - Recheck ignition timing and valve timing. These are tough engines that will run well on some pretty funny timing. I would say it's your discretion to change or keep the timing but I've ran my car this way for 4 years with no real issues. Not even poor MPG. I will get some numbers on where my timing is at exactly to post in this thread, I know of a few other 1st gen owners with this timing, and one even complaining of less power when he changed to stock timing. Just something I've never taken a harder look at given the car runs so well.
List is subject to change at any moment__
2. Parts sourcing
a. You won't be able to find everything you need at Autozone or Rockauto. For this I suggest searching eBay or my personal favorite www.hollanderparts.com otherwise it's off to the junkyard with you! Or better yet find a part's car!
b. Some parts will seem to be impossible to find, that's because they are. You're working on a reliable car that didn't sell in massive numbers for it's 1st generation. Every 1st gen out there either runs and drives or is already compressed into a giant steel cube, so if you find a parts car, or something off of another 1st gen that you want I highly suggest you go after it.
c. Nippon Denso or NGK should be your preferred brand when it comes to electrical parts. More power to anyone else who has good luck with other mfg's. Just stating what works best for me.
__
I'm going to cut this off for now (12-17-21) while I compile some more information about the rest of my topics. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask, or if you want me to cover something in particular let me know.
