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Compressor Magnetic Clutch Replacement

26866 Views 24 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  BonesandFeathers
13
TOOLS:



Procedure:

1) unplug the MG/CL connector



2) connect the red wire to the car (-) battery, connect the black wire to (+) of car battery



by connecting to battery the MG/CL will be activated so ;

3) you can easily loosen the bolt






4) remove this and o-ring washer



5) remove the snap ring





6) remove the pully



7) remove the MG/CL snap ring





8) remove MG/CL



NOTE:
when you want to assmble the MG/CL be sure to put the MG/CL in correct place.



by using digital multimeter the resistance of MG/CL should be almost 4 OHM.
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Looks good. Any particular problems with the removal/install? Where did you git yer new bearing from? ;)
Looks good. Any particular problems with the removal/install? Where did you git yer new bearing from? ;)
it is not difficult.for example: for pulley you do not need special tools like puller, you can take it out by hand.
i did not change the bearing, what i did, remove the part and clean it.
Bumping old thread to ask... is this on 5sfe?
Can this be done without removing the compressor from the car?

My A/C clutch started making a metallic scraping sound when not engaged, and when engaged, the pulley wobbles - I assume if the bearings are bad in the clutch, it allows the clutch to tilt a bit - causing the metal sound. And then when it engages, it is engaged cock-eyed causing the wobble?

Also whats with the clutch being $100+ at auto parts stores... but I can buy a whole new (rebuilt) clutch and compressor on eBay for $80?
One more...
Since it's coming on winter, I dont need the A/C anyway for awhile. However I don't want the clutch to go so bad that it throws, or eats the belt.

Could I get the non-A/C belt and put that on - just leaving the A/C out of the equation entirely? I could figure this one out for myself but I don't have the car here right now.
FYI usually you can get a junkyard one for 50bucks if you pull it yourself. They are easy to pull out unless you have a v6.
Yeah but for $30 more I'd take the Reman unit from eBay.

Anyone?
Well I ordered me a non-A/C belt. Didn't have any in stock. So Tuesday I'm going to put that on. And them I'm going to pull the clutch off/apart and see what's up.

IF it is just the bearing, I am going to try to find and install a new one. Have a place in town called "Arkansas Bearing" that claims to have or can get every manner of universal, CV, roller chain, bearings, ect. We shall see.

If not, then I am going to order one of the reman units from eBay, and take the clutch off and put it on mine. Then I'll have a shiny spare reman compressor for later if needed :lol:
I am wondering if you are replacing this due to a whining type noise? I have an ES300 with 1mzfe (94) and seem to have a whining noise consistently around 2000-3000 rpm only when AC is engaged. If while accelerating I turn the AC off, the whine disappears immediately. My mechanic says that the whole AC compressor should be replaced which will include a new clutch and all. New OEM compressor is 220 (I have a wholesaler) however I am thinking if it's only the clutch to just replace that? What type of noise are we talking here??

Thanks guys..didn't mean to hijack thread just wanted more input.
Going by the Factory Service Manual I have, it says

If A/C is ON when making noise, it's the compressor.

If A/C is OFF when making noise, its the clutch.

Mine only makes noise when off.

If I cant fix it myself, I'll be getting one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebu...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb9c75c31

But I need the car daily, and I don't want to run it anymore than necessary, that's why I'm going to get a belt just to run the Alternator for now, while I attempt to fix it, which might require days wait for a bearing (if at all on that) and probably almost a week if I have to get that reman unit.
^ judging by description of listing, forget about ANY warranty if you are planning to install it yourself. still it is a good price though :)
Yeah, I aint worried about warranty since for the time being I'm just going to use the clutch off it, and keep the compressor for "someday".
Well I can say one thing for sure.

If you have a Camry with A/C and you put the "non-A/C" belt on, it will work. But JUST barely. I'm talking probably less than a millimeter clearance between the back side of the belt and the A/C pulley. Though you may have a touch more clearance if your A/C clutch isnt cocked and flopping around.

I can say a 2nd thing. My clutch is not like OP's Though I don't remember if OP mentioned the year of his Camry. Mine isn't just going to come apart. Nah, mine requires a very dumb method for "pulling" the pressure plate. The dumb method is about 3 threads in it that your supposed to thread a special bolt into, which would pop the pressure plate off. Those threads are now stripped.

Here you can kinda get an idea of what I mean.



As it sits now, it's either going to come off in pieces, or it's not going to come off at all and I'm gonna need the whole compressor and clutch.
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Total bust. I finally managed to get that pressure plate off. I actually did not screw it up bad enough to make it un-usable.

No, it did that itself. The first thing I found when I got the pressure plate off was that the first snap ring was only 1/3rd there. And that 1/3rd was in two pieces. (the rest was metal dust) Upon further inspection, it looks to me as if the snap ring is what let loose first. This appears to have allowed the inner race of the bearing to spin on the shaft and/or catch in the groove that the snap ring was in - causing the groove to become unable to even hold another snap ring.

Also in the end, I busted part of said groove off. I figure because of the way it was worn.

And that makes the compressor no-good as well. Funny thing is - the bearing itself appears to be fine :lol:

Edit: Will post pictures at a later time.
5
Pictures.

Here is how it would be if you just put the non-A/C belt on, with the A/C all still in there.



Here is the pressure plate. Note the piece of snap ring in there. Also isn't there supposed to be like a clutch/brake type material on it? Dunno because havent seen any good pictures of one.



The actual pulley. Bearing was good. Yeah I screwed up that ring in the middle - once I found out that everything was toast.



Only other piece of the snap ring that I found.



Mounted back in the car for the time being.
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Total bust. I finally managed to get that pressure plate off. I actually did not screw it up bad enough to make it un-usable.

No, it did that itself. The first thing I found when I got the pressure plate off was that the first snap ring was only 1/3rd there. And that 1/3rd was in two pieces. (the rest was metal dust) Upon further inspection, it looks to me as if the snap ring is what let loose first. This appears to have allowed the inner race of the bearing to spin on the shaft and/or catch in the groove that the snap ring was in - causing the groove to become unable to even hold another snap ring.

Also in the end, I busted part of said groove off. I figure because of the way it was worn.

And that makes the compressor no-good as well. Funny thing is - the bearing itself appears to be fine :lol:

Edit: Will post pictures at a later time.
I am going through this same exact process right now because I believe the clutch bearing is gone. I have the non-ac belt on with probably less than a mm of clearance as well. The ac compressor is unmounted, but I can't seem to get the pressure plate off. Do you have any tips on how you got it off, did you buy or rent the sst, if so, where? Thanks.
I, too, just had my AC compressor clutch start making a metallic grinding noise (AC off). After reading this thread, I was encouraged to get the non-a/c belt (and run this way until next spring). All the previous posters are spot-on - the clearance between the back of the belt and the compressor pulley is almost non-existent (Gen 3). In fact, after running for a few minutes the back of the new belt had some faint score marks from rubbing against the AC pulley. My solution: I loosened the three mounting bolts that hold the compressor to the block and inserted two washers between the compressor and engine on the left two bolts (bottom left and upper middle). This gives a solid gap of clearance.
I did not buy or rent the SST but after looking at things, I made my own... but it didn't work because there is only about 3-4 threads for it to grab and they just stripped right out.

I ended up drilling 2 holes in the pressure plate and making a makeshift puller similar to a harmonic balance puller, and threading a bolt into the center to push against... again just like using a harmonic balance puller.

But as in the pictures I destroyed the whole thing. However I think had I not let it run so long with a bad bearing, I might have been able to save it even with drilling holes in the pressure plate.
In this picture you can see the holes I drilled.

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