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Considering buying a 2nd gen...

45461 Views 914 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Kingdom934
Hello. I've owned two cars in the past; a used 2008 Toyota Yaris (that I only owned for five months before totaling it in a car crash), then a new 2011 Mazda2, which I totally loved every day until it was repossessed and immediately auctioned due to financial troubles on my part earlier this year. I've been without a car now for three months in the most car-dependent state on the planet, and yeah, it sucks.

So now that I'm steadily employed and relatively financially stable again, I need another car, and fast. I absolutely do not want to deal with monthly payments, aside from auto insurance and regular maintenance/gas. At first, I was looking at 4th generation Camrys, since they're still everywhere and those were the last generation of said reliable car before all the cars started getting really fat and bloated (high beltines, anyone?). But the average price of those Camrys is too high for me to save up for at the moment ($2300-$3300). I also looked at used 2000s cars to buy outright, but most under $2500 are full of problems. So I opted for pre-1997 cars for less than $2000.

That's where the 2nd generation Camry comes in. Here in Southern California, especially in L.A. and vicinity, there are still quite a few of these 1987-1991 Camrys zipping around, and with no rust. In my city alone, there are probably a dozen or so of them on the roads (white seems to be the popular color of choice). I see enough of them daily to where I feel they have proven themselves to be sturdy, reliable vehicles for their age. I see just as many 1986-89 and 1990-93 Honda Accords and Civics here, but those are stolen even more, and I don't need that. I also could have opted for the just-as-good-if-not-better 3rd generation Camrys (1992-1996), but they're too round and ordinary-looking for my taste. The 2nd gen Camrys got it right IMO, not too boxy but not too round either.

So I've been doing extensive research on these 2nd gen Camrys every single day for the past month now, and there are over 100 of them for sale locally on craigslist. Many have between 100K and 200k miles; I've even seen some with 300,000+ miles on them (!!!). So I'm currently saving up about $1500 for one, that seems like a reasonable price to me. Now I am not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically inclined with cars (the most I've done is change the air filter on my 2011 Mazda2), however I'm willing to learn what is needed to keep the car running smoothly. In fact, it kinda seems like it would make me feel more personally attached to the car, thus making it even more special. I would not typically drive long distances in the car, I just need to get to my job and college (all within a few miles) and occasionally my friend's house and stuff like that. Local driving, mostly. However I should mention that the roads here are pretty crappy in general. We also have many, many curvy & twisty roads, often with long, gradual as well as very steep grades/inclines. I hope the Camry can handle it.

I do love listening to music, oh man do I love me some good tunes. So I've already looked into Pioneer audio systems for the car just in case, as I don't believe the stock stereo/speakers will do the bass any real justice.

As for safety, to be honest, I'm not all that concerned. Post-1985 cars I'm not worried about. It has just enough for me, I'm fairly minimal in my preferences in a car. All I need is a good sound system, A/C and the typical power steering/etc and I'm set. I'm 23, by the way.

So tl;dr - are these good cars? Is $1500 worth it? Any advice/tips/recommendations/etc? Thank you.
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I didn't notice it was a V6 until you pointed it out. At any rate, I'll be contacting a seller about four weeks from now.

This one is strange. If he put all that work into it, why is he selling it for just $300 (and apparently expecting it to be sold as a parts car)? The seller even states that a new tranny will get it up and running again just fine. Some of the new parts he put into it are probably worth more than $300 individually. Maybe I'm missing something...?
That's first one won't be available in 4 weeks. There will be something else though, don't worry.

As for the last one, it isn't worth much without a good transmission. The interior is probably trashed. $300 is about what you'd get sending it to a junkyard...

-Charlie
Do you already have the $$$ in hand to buy one of these $1500 cars? If not, you shouldn't be calling anyone yet, or even checking VINs on CarFax... Its just wasting your time and the sellers time. There will be multiple Camrys for sale in the price range that will be just fine whenever you are ready to buy.

Also, don't fall for the 'It'll pass smog' thing - it is the seller's responsibility in California to have a valid smog certificate in hand before selling the car. You don't want to risk an immediate expensive repair (say, catalytic converter!) before you can even drive the car you just bought.

-Charlie
Gray primer spot on the hood - maybe just bird poo, though.

Seats look like they are gray, but rest of interior looks blue - seats may have been replaced.
Those seats are DX blue, but faded and dirty.

-Charlie
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I also just noticed the lack of an odometer reading mentioned anywhere in the ad or visible in the pictures. I've emailed the seller, asking for it.

I do my best to avoid vehicles with over 200,000 miles on them. It's nice to know they are capable of lasting that long, however I don't want to buy one that is already that "aged"...
They are all aged at this point. Ha!

Its just whether you get a fine wine or vinegar.

-Charlie
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Shifting might be a sensor but I'm not positive on that.

To me, it is a good sign that he uses a steering wheel lock on a 28-year-old car with over 166K miles.

Either he really thinks a lot of the car (which is a good thing), or he lives in a really bad part of town (which is a bad thing ...)
That's a pretty bad area...

It could be a sticking solenoid for the transmission, but no guarantees.

-Charlie
Don't know how I didn't notice the hood. I guess I had just assumed that the angle and shade was making it look that way...hm.
The right headlight is also mis-aligned. Looks like a junkyard buy with a primered hood and nose panel installed.

-Charlie
Why not something like these?

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5366403362.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/5341209585.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5366203015.html

I have a good replacement cat for this one:
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5321844063.html

Actually, it looks like a ton of good options up in the San Fernando and San Gabriel valleys...

-Charlie
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It is the sellers responsibility to provide a valid smog check on the car before selling. No matter what, even if the tags are valid for a while, you will need a valid smog check to transfer ownership of the vehicle. Remember that you will also be paying a transfer tax of ~10% of the purchase price (indicated on the title that you send to the DMV).

Those are sunshades - they are on both rear windows, goes along with the little pads on the rear shoulder belts... Can't tell if it a base optioned up or a DX from the pictures (full vinyl doors = base, upper fabric insert = DX, upper and lower fabric = LE).

-Charlie
Last I recall in California if the car has been smogged within 90 days than the new owner doesn't need to get the car smogged. In my experience, although the seller is responible for smogging, it is the buyer who ends up doing it.
As a buyer, you can waive the right... its just not a good idea if you don't know exactly what you are getting into (like, I bought my white Alltrac with no smog certification, because well, the car didn't run!).

-Charlie
If it was me I would be patient and find an LE model or a DX model if 1991.
Good point - it shouldn't cost much extra at all. The DX's and LE's are much nicer cars to be in. You'll appreciate power windows and door locks, fold-down rear seats, etc. You'll want the AC to work if possible (make sure you check it on the test drive even though its cold out!).

-Charlie
What's weird is that the car I chose does not appear to be a DX nor an LE, yet the pictures show it has power windows at least. I've seen a few other listings like that too. And if it doesn't have power locks, at some point I'll install them in the future if I do end up buying it.
Many options were available on the base model - you could make it very close to a DX. Power windows and locks (and AC) were still optional on the DX. The interior finish is the easiest way to tell the difference between trims. If you are going to add a feature (like power locks), you might as well try to get it for 'free' now.

It also depends on what kind of feeling you want when you drive the car. More features = more things to break. But, more features = a much nicer place to be.

I have owned a base model, a DX and two LE's - I personally wouldn't want a base model again, but a reasonably optioned DX would be fine. The LE interior is much nicer though... (until you have to repair the HVAC controls or power antenna...)

-Charlie
I've noticed that all listings for the LE models indicated lower MPG than the other ones.
The (FWD) LE models all had automatic transmissions, the base and DX models it was optional. What you are seeing is the difference between the auto and manual transmission ratings.

-Charlie
Nice Lexus. Still, I'd like to know what I can do with the speaker setup in the 2nd gens. Do you think I'll have to carve spaces for speakers to fit in the doors?
You can essentially replace the bottom of the door panels with MDF and mount the speakers there. There is enough clearance at that point for anything reasonable you'd want to put there. Standard stuff for highly modified stereos.

-Charlie
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I noticed you mention that the LE (FWD) had automatic. The only way to get a 5spd manual for the LE was the All-trac, right?
Yes, and then only in '88 and '89. '88 Alltracs were manual only, by '91, the Alltrac was auto only, whether DX or LE.

-Charlie
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Bad news:
Unfortunately it looks like I won't have enough money to have the car inspected by a mechanic before buying it. I don't know for sure yet, but between buying the car, registration/dmv fees, gas money and getting me through the next two weeks until I'm paid again - doesn't look like there will be enough for an inspection. I'm still trying to get price quotes from auto mechanics in the area though, so I don't know.

Let's hope the car doesn't need any immediate fixes within the next two weeks....of course, that's IF I'm satisfied with the test drive and end up buying it.

Anyway, I might as well start getting all the necessary documents for transferring the vehicle ready.
Sounds like you aren't quite ready to buy then. Sorry to be harsh, but if buying a vehicle means you might not have $$$ leftover by the next paycheck, you probably shouldn't get a car yet.

Gas, registration, insurance and repairs (if you can't do them yourself) can and will cost you more than you are anticipating. That, and the new found freedom will get you to do things like go out and spend money on other stuff...

-Charlie
Meanwhile I'm trying to think of a reasonable excuse to offer $1400 instead of $1500 for the car, that would be enough to keep me pretty secure until my next paycheck - but it's a risk I'm going to take. I'm pretty good with not spending money on anything not absolutely necessary (years of training/experience) and fortunately most things I like to do, cost very little or nothing at all. Money will be tight, but I'm used to that.

If I do end up buying that car and something does go wrong with it, at least I have you guys to offer help. All I can do is give the car a once-over with my untrained eye and common sense.
No need for an excuse. All you need is to be willing to walk away. Then you can offer whatever you want. No explanation or excuse needed.

I'm waiting for the news... did you get it? Did it make the drive home?

-Charlie
<$1400 cars will go quick. Like, call and see if the car is available and drive there 10 minutes after the call quick. Any cheap car that is available for more than a week or so probably isn't one you actually want to buy.

I don't really see it as the buyers flaking - if you wait days to go see a car, they will likely take any other offers that come in before that point. It isn't like you gave them a deposit or something...

-Charlie
Well somebody still beat me to another one this morning.

I'm starting to think this is impossible.
I almost want to go buy one to show you it is. :Bruce:

Really though, in this price range, you just have to go as soon as you see it on Craigslist.

-Charlie
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Are you checking the inland empire and orange county craigslist too?

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...y=camry&srchType=T&max_price=1800&is_paid=all

There seems to be plenty of options. Borrow a car, get the new one paid and come back for it in a day or two when you can arrange a ride.

Its too bad you can do any work on the car for yourself. There's a good looking V6 3rd gen for $400 that needs a timing belt...

-Charlie
Do you think the OP made a mistake buying this car?
I'm not who you asked, but I'd say yes...

If you can't do the work yourself, this car needs about $1500 of work to be safe and reasonably reliable. If you can do the work yourself, it needs a few weekends and about $200-400 of work... That makes it not much of a $1500 car.

-Charlie
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