[white90dx]

If the outer half of the oil pump came loose, you could have:

- Loosened timing belt (the slack you see at the top)
- Giant oil leak (internally or externally) that is causing low/no oil pressure

Seems like you found your culprit.

-Charlie

 

[Temeku]

Finally off work today so I drained the oil out of the pan. Looking closely, I see at least two very tiny pieces of shiny metal in the oil, but it was clean otherwise. I began work on getting the drive belts off as well, but one of the bolts holding the power steering pump to its mounting bracket was apparently tightened by Godzilla (trying to loosen it with my 14mm wrench lifts the entire engine up) so give me more time on that one.

They really never wanted me to drop the oil pan, it seems. There is just so much in the way (exhaust pipe, crossmember) and some of the bolts appear impossible to get to. I'm contemplating just paying the shop $500 to do it...

 

[dem2757]

Finally off work today so I drained the oil out of the pan. Looking closely, I see at least two very tiny pieces of shiny metal in the oil, but it was clean otherwise. I began work on getting the drive belts off as well, but one of the bolts holding the power steering pump to its mounting bracket was apparently tightened by Godzilla (trying to loosen it with my 14mm wrench lifts the entire engine up) so give me more time on that one.

They really never wanted me to drop the oil pan, it seems. There is just so much in the way (exhaust pipe, crossmember) and some of the bolts appear impossible to get to. I'm contemplating just paying the shop $500 to do it...

A word of experience here...if the job looks involved on an older car, it usually means things will break, strip, shear etc. If a shop wants 500 for the pan, and starts adding up what else they broke on a normal removal, it may very quickly kill the car for good. There's no rush to fixing this now correct? Just baby it in small pieces and attack it slowly but confidently. 500$ could be a rare junkyard engine find IMO.

 

[Temeku]

A word of experience here...if the job looks involved on an older car, it usually means things will break, strip, shear etc. If a shop wants 500 for the pan, and starts adding up what else they broke on a normal removal, it may very quickly kill the car for good. There's no rush to fixing this now correct? Just baby it in small pieces and attack it slowly but confidently. 500$ could be a rare junkyard engine find IMO.

Actually $550 for the whole job - oil pump replacement and all else involved with it (including reinstalling timing belt, oil pan, etc). I'm actually rather optimistic about this engine's survival now, unlike earlier. I think she may live through this, just needs a new oil pump.

 

[dem2757]

Actually $550 for the whole job - oil pump replacement and all else involved with it (including reinstalling timing belt, oil pan, etc). I'm actually rather optimistic about this engine's survival now, unlike earlier. I think she may live through this, just needs a new oil pump.

In that case that is a DAMN good price haha

 

[Temeku]

A few nice 2nd gen Camry's for reasonable prices...

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/6062955941.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/6110295677.html
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/6107300195.html

Tell me what you guys think.

 

[TigerHeli]

Tell me what you guys think.

You tend to have a better eye for this, than I do, but ....

White one - pretty leery of - where and why is the oil leaking? If the blower motor is really a $45 fix, why not spend $45 and sell it for $300 or so more? (If the blower motor is broken, you can't tell if the compressor works or not ...

Maroon one - I like this probably the best of the three. Salvage title so maybe have it checked for frame damage. Damage to right rear doesn't look too bad in pictures, but it wouldn't take much to total out an 1989 car.

Silver one - ripped seats would bother me - could be expensive to fix? Maybe seat covers, but hard to find for the rear.

Also - https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/6094401227.html - Some damage to Right Front, but might be worth considering also.

Other thoughts - the 1986 and up Camry had fuel injection so that is a plus. If you liked the Cressida's, to me, this body style is similar, so that is a plus also.

 

[David Nichols]

Finally off work today so I drained the oil out of the pan. Looking closely, I see at least two very tiny pieces of shiny metal in the oil, but it was clean otherwise. I began work on getting the drive belts off as well, but one of the bolts holding the power steering pump to its mounting bracket was apparently tightened by Godzilla (trying to loosen it with my 14mm wrench lifts the entire engine up) so give me more time on that one.

They really never wanted me to drop the oil pan, it seems. There is just so much in the way (exhaust pipe, crossmember) and some of the bolts appear impossible to get to. I'm contemplating just paying the shop $500 to do it...

Try tightening it, before you loosen it. Works a lot of the time.

Also, just plain force can end up stripping while a higher-instantaneous force may slowly get it unstuck. Meaning. Put a breaker bar on it and hit it with a hammer or something.

Penetrating oil works awesome. Make your own with acetone and transmission fluid. Or buy the mixed result: Kroil.

 

[David Nichols]

You saw metal in the engine...

... I've been waiting to share some friend's advice:

You see, Briansmobile1 DOESN'T, HASN'T advised using additives UNTIL now. I've known him, not personally, but I've followed his channel for a number of years. I was surprised. In the comments under the video he explained the issues of tons of other additives. But this is none of those things.

He's seen oil analyses showing engines having metal in the oil, using this additive, and then the metal in the oil according to independent labs, has reduced.

So, once you do get it's known issues put back together. Get it running again with this to give the car it's best chance.

 

[David Nichols]

... I've been waiting to share some friend's advice:

https://youtu.be/fk0GDsmgSsY

You see, Briansmobile1 DOESN'T, HASN'T advised using additives UNTIL now. I've known him, not personally, but I've followed his channel for a number of years. I was surprised. In the comments under the video he explained the issues of tons of other additives. But this is none of those things.

He's seen oil analyses showing engines having metal in the oil, using this additive, and then the metal in the oil according to independent labs, has reduced.

So, once you do get it's known issues put back together. Get it running again with this to give the car it's best chance.

I thought I'd send you one of the best quotes to hear about the science side of it.

First the doubtful question:

sigmundfloyder
sigmundfloyder 1 month ago
so you are saying that this magical fluid will increase the lubrication quality of convention oil 6X? BS,
Reply 7
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briansmobile1
briansmobile1 1 month ago
I would be saying the same thing had I not seen it in person.

My first edit was four hours long. I spent three days testing this stuff and was freaking out after the first half day. That first half day I was completely cynical and throwing up objections left and right trying to find a loop hole or trick so I wouldn't have to present this stuff. I know the uphill battle to defend it. I know it looks crazy.

They weren't defensive, they humored me, answered my questions, they gave me unfettered access, I learned all about the old tech of chlorinated parafins, short chain solvents, zinc carriers, Zinc dialkl dithiophosphates (ZDDP) and PTFE train wreck products that turned into plastic in oil galleries etc. I also watched products I've bought in the past make oil worse not better. You're doubting. I totally get that. I was too.

The big thing for me was seeing oil spectrum analysis report after analysis report from CAT, black stone, and other independent labs showing ppm's of wear metals in failing engines go from the 400's down to the low double digits and single digits. I was looking for any excuse to not have to present it, but once I saw it work so well. I wanted to use it, share it, and then the trick became how?

How do I make a video less than 20 minutes that's convincing and at the same time doesn't get me shot by firing squad by 1. armchair critics, 2. petrochemical engineers. 3. not send people directly to the commercial side. 4. not get shot and burried in the dessert by inferior companies that are better established that I watched completely fail and even make the oil they're added to worse? Hence the month delay in posting.
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Reply 6
DE Nichols
DE Nichols 1 month ago
You're article here, Brian, reminds me of why it took me a year to review Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant. I was waiting for my catalytic converters to fail. I was waiting for my spark plugs or O2 sensors have issues, but no, all parts behaved as long as they were supposed to. My spark plugs got weak on their normal schedule, etc. Then, despite TREMENDOUS testing...how long did I talk about it? For 5 minutes, because I didn't know how to take the time to make it deeper, despite tremendous testing behind the scenes.
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Reply 1
briansmobile1
briansmobile1 1 month ago
I hear ya man.

I'm DE Nichols in response to briansmboile1.

 

[Temeku]

Well I put everything back together and had the Accord towed to my local auto repair. I told them not to start it since I drained the oil (which, after more thorough examination - had more metal fragments in it than I previously thought, they had just sunk to the bottom). There might be hope, but we will see in a couple of days.

I'm likely going to buy either a Cressida or Camry in about three weeks when I have the money together.

1983-91 Toyota Camrys on craigslist
1981-88 Toyota Cressidas on craigslist

 

[Temeku]

I was on the phone with the auto shop multiple times today. This morning they told me that they found the oil pump had literally broken in half. They put a new one in, primed it, added the right oil (they asked me which type I used for the car).

Got a call from them this afternoon. They did everything and finally started the car. No engine noise. No knocking. No tapping. Sounded normal and healthy according to them. Has good oil pressure again and everything works as it did before.

Mechanic told me I dodged another bullet. I'm picking the car up tomorrow after I pay. Needless to say, I'm in a pretty good mood.

This engine is bulletproof. Everything that should have killed it, just won't. It won't die. No doubt that the engine's life has been shortened by this ordeal, though. I can't wait to drive her again.

I'm still moving forward with plans to buy another car in a few weeks, however. Fortunately, this old Accord's time isn't up yet.

 

[Phil_Bleach]

Haha pheww! You're a lucky guy, no doubt about it. So I guess the metal chunks you found in the oil came from the pump?

 

[David Nichols]

Haha pheww! You're a lucky guy, no doubt about it. So I guess the metal chunks you found in the oil came from the pump?

I am so happy for you! That is a heck of a bullet you dodged! By the way, when bullets are aimed right you can't dodge, but in this case you did!

So...turning it off ASAP and pulling over saved you.

Ya know...I've driven over a mile when I lost all the oil in my car once. Never had an issue. It was brief, and the oil already in the engine kept it lubed enough...it was a very bad part of town and I didn't want to lose my first car, a 1989 Nissan Pulsar to that spot!

That said, that metal can't go into your engine to damage it when there's no oil pump to car the oil into the engine, so you probably had more time than you thought, but you still played it super safe.

And in the case of my dodged bullet, the oil trail went mostly to my friend's house so I had oil longer than I thought. That was 15 years ago.

Here raises a glass to our dodged bullets! :drinky: I'm not an alcohol drinker, but these emoticons don't have any actual alcohol in them, so it's safe, right? :wink:

(I was hoping for a more classy beer raising and foam, but I guess that's in the Nissan Forum I frequent for my Frontier.)

 

[Kingdom934]

I love this thread.

But yes, A Cressida would be a great car. The engine is otherwise bullet proof minus the oil.leaks.everywhere. If you can get it cheap, at least you'll have a backup car.

Your accord got like 9 lives. Is it a cat? :longcat: