Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
On my '89 wagon, w/duh 2.0... A month or so ago when it was quite cold out...say 15 degrees, when the motor just sucking in ambient air is enough to cool it, almost, I noticed that the cooling fans were on. I unplugged the pass-side, but couldn't get the driver's disconnected. Last week, I attacked it again and it shut off. Additionally, the temp needle bounced like crazy.

Fast forward to last night...I looked at the temp switch. and the wire came right off...as in the plug stayed on the motor, and the wire came off. So, dat is why the fan was on continuously.

I went to the boneyard today...man did I make some "Finds." For 2 dif cars, a hitch, door handle, D-cap, and 2 sensors and the plugs....35 buckeroos (the hitch is $115 new, w/o shipping).

I put the plug on, and the pass side fan stops. When I touch the bare end of the wire to the motor it shuts off the fans (I think), and removed, it runs. I do not get any juice to the driver's side plug, either wire.

As it stands now, the pass-side cycles on and off at somewhere around 140 degree w/my [email protected]@ IR thermometer on the lower rad hose...nothing on the D-side.

Also, nothing when I turn the AC on. The compressor comes on. But, shouldn't both fans come on automatically w/the AC. OH...BTW, it is about 40 degrees out.

I put the temp. gage sending unit in...and the needle still bounces. I guess my gage is still bad.

I am not gonna worry about it to much, until it warms up.
 

·
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
Joined
·
8,370 Posts
For the gauge - see if you can pick up another gauge cluster and swap in the temp gauge section to your cluster. You might also have bad connection in the wiring between the temp sender and the cluster. Also note - the fan switch on the water inlet has nothing to do with the gauge. Also, the temp sender for the cluster is a single-wire sensor that is only for the gauge, and the ECU uses a 2-wire sensor on the water outlet neck near the sender for the gauge.

For the fans - you are generally on the right track here. Grounding the temp switch wire should keep both fans off unless the AC is on. Unplugging the fan temp switch (or the AC high-pressure switch under the battery) should turn both fans on high.

Toyota labels one fan the Condenser Fan and one the Radiator fan. The radiator fan is closest to the battery. They should always work together though...

When the AC compressor clutch is getting power, both fans should operate in series (low speed). If there is a problem with one fan, it can cause both to stay off.

Check the 30A RDI FAN and CDS FAN fuses, make sure both fans are plugged in. There are 3 relays that control the 3 operation modes of the fans - off, series, parallel. You'll also want to check the operation of those relays (I think the coil connections are marked on them, apply 12V and check if they click).

-Charlie
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top