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cost to replace timing belt and waterpump

131K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  BigD66 
#1 ·
Can anybody tell me what would be reasonable to pay to have my timing belt and waterpump replaced?
Thanks :)
 
#3 ·
I had mine replaced on my 2005 and I got estimates for $100 less than dealer at local shops. Dealer charged me $ 850 for pump and timing belt. You can have it done by local shop of $ 750 or less. For a job like that you should take it to a certified shop , its not like changing oil or brake pads. You are only spending that money once every 100000 miles.
 
#11 ·
I just got my '06 (76k mi.) inspected (gas station) and they told me my drive belt was "really bad - not just a little bad." I suspect they were fishing for some work, so I'll have it checked out with the shop I normally use. A couple of questions: 1) Are "drive belt" and "serpentine belt" interchangeable terms? I want to make sure I getting quotes on the right job. 2) Is it necessary, or simply a good idea, to get the water pump replaced at the same time?
 
#12 ·
Yes, the drive belt and serpentine belt can be used as naming the same thing. It is however not the timing belt. The timing belt is not visible, it is located behind the plastic cover on the front of the engine and it turns the water pump. The serpentine belt or "drive" belt is the one you can see and turns the A/C compressor, alternator, P/S pump, etc. So, yes get it looked at by a mechanic you can trust, or just replace the serpentine belt yourself, it is not very hard.
 
#13 ·
I also want to add that the timing belt's job is to turn the camshafts and keep them in "time" with the pistons going up and down in the cylinder, that is why it is important to not let the belt break or stretch and jump a tooth as it will wreck your engine by allowing the valves to crash into the pistons. I believe that Toyota's recomended interval for the timing belt replacement is at 90k miles, so I wouldn't worry about it for now.
 
#14 ·
$500-$600 is reasonable for a timing belt replacement at a non-dealer shop on most cars - not sure if some Toyota's are more difficult or easier than others.

as it will wreck your engine by allowing the valves to crash into the pistons.
This varies also. Some engines are referred to as Interference Engines and some engines are Non-Interference engines.

I suspect Toyota has both types of engines, but don't know for sure.

On an Interference engine - you are absolutely correct. If the timing belt breaks with the engine running (which is probable), it is unlikely that you would NOT bend valves and/or damage the cylinder head, so you are looking most likely at a head replacement and several thousand dollars - probably more than the car is worth. If the belt breaks with the car not running, probably the car just won't start and you are extremely lucky.

On a Non-Interference engine - really if the belt breaks the engine will either stop running or not start - no real damage. It's not a great idea to run a non-interference engine until the belt breaks, but it is much safer than doing so with an interference engine.
 
#18 ·
Well we were inspired by the video, and did it ourselves. Actually my 16 year old son is interested in car work so I let him at it with iPad in hand and the video. We were kind of held up by the harmonic balancer and had to buy a new impact tool..both mine and the borrowed neighbours were gutless..likely needed new seals or something... Only other hang up was the upper gasket for the radiator didn't fit. Went to Toyota, and showed them the gasket that came in my kit and asked for the correct one pointing on their parts diagram, and they listed the same gasket....didn't fit.... Frustrating...I ended up getting my son to pickup an instant form a gasket tube from CanadianTire (national hardware store like Aces Hardware), I accident key told him to pickup a gasket Sealant, so on my madden voyage, it leaked like a sieve after hot. But I was able to top it up and get to Napa and got the expensive instant gasket spray stuff that seals in 5 minutes. Had it fixed in about 10 minutes, and there have been no leaks since.

Engine was running great but has started to intermittently stumble when idling at stop and in gear with the ac on, and occasionally stall. Changed the oil,and ran some Shell premium cleaning gas through and it helped, but I still get the occasional in-gear at stop stumble, with intermittent stalling...no prob when in motion, and plenty of power...any tips would be appreciated..

Locally in Peterborough Ontario, dealer wanted $1700 for timing belt, water pump, and idlers. Called Lindsay Race Toyota, and they wanted $1350 for the same job.....got the parts for $350, also changing the hoses to the rad, +30 for the seal a gasket, and $60 for a new impact gun... Great learning experience for my son.




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#20 ·
timing belt

I usually do my own work if I can. looking at youtube videos, this looked a little complicated so I had it done at 134k. Shop said $450 labor plus parts. Went ahead with the complete kit, belt, serpentine, water pump, thermostat, and timing belt tensioner. $1000 total parts and labor.
I did an old 89 Pathfinder and it was fairly easy by comparison.
 
#21 ·
The Cost depends on a few factors - are they using all Toyota Genuine OEM parts, or after-market parts? What are you having done - the water pump, the seals and the timing belt, or the drive belts too plus the tensioner and pulleys? I am about to take my 2007 Highlander Limited to the Dealer, but I purchased all my own parts and literally save 50% PLUS the sales tax. It's easy to do if you ID the Toyota part #s you need (I have my dealer write them down, but you can also find them online) and I ONLY purchase genuine Toyota parts. E-bay is awesome and they also have "kits" that include the various components if you don't want to spend the time locating and purchasing them individually (I think its a little cheaper if you buy them all individually but it does take more time).

Since the car will have 180K, I am doing the timing belt, both drive belts, the water pump and the seals. When I asked about the auto tensioner, they told me they don't recommend replacing it because its spring-loaded. Anyone else heard of this?
 
#22 ·
Replace the tensioner. It'd not spring loaded, but hydraulic.

If you are doing a complete timing belt job, I recommend replacing everything. That includes the timing belt, water pump, front seals (2 cam and 1 crank), upper idler bearing, tensioner idler, tensioner, drive belts, and thermostat.

When doing that I buy the ebay kits that have OEM parts only. Some of the kits come in all Toyota parts bags, while some come in mixed OEM manufacturer or OEM Toyota bags/boxes.

I have used the below kit extensively and the parts are identical to factory parts. Here is the kit I use and recommend:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS-...t%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D958346710365

While the 1MZFE/3MZFE thermostat is not required with a timing belt, I always replace it for good measure. It's on the opposite side of the engine and can be a pain to access too. I only use OEM thermostat or OEM thermostat manufacturers (Kuzeh, Tama) found on Toyota engines.

When I did my Sequoia, I did the exact same thing.
 
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#23 ·
I just did a friend's 2008 Camry, 3.0v6. I did complete job including seals and waterpump... What a pain in the ass. I have a Hyundai Sonata with a v6 and it was way easier. I am a pretty experienced mechanic and it took me 8 hours total. I will say one thing for sure, don't get a knock off Toyota seal puller, they are junk, and just bend! I was able to remove the crank seal with it, but got nowhere with the cam seals. Ended up using a combination of small flathead and picks. Also it seemed like every other bolt I was switching between sockets and extensions. I only charged $140 cause it was a friend, but I would never do it again for under 200 labor. If you are patient and have time you can do it, but leave your whole day open. I couldn't get the crank bolt off with my impact, so I wedged a breaker bar against the control arm and had someone tap the started, works like a charm. Just be sure to pull the injection relay so it won't start! An air ratchet would be very beneficial, as it seems all the bolts have a ton of threads, and taking your arm in tight places and working a ratchet really gets old. It looks a lot simpler on YouTube than what your likely to experience. Again, it's not rocket science, but it takes a lot of time and patience. Also, there is no need to spend money on a seal press if you don't have one. If you grease them well, you can press them in by hand easily with a piece of inch and a half PVC pipe. Hope this helps anyone considering the job.
 
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