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Check the connectors that attach to the cluster harness (behind the glove box) and also the ones that go to the connectors by the fuse box near the battery. If they are the same as the manual harness you're good. You should go back and grab the tranny bracket and mount by the battery in fact grab all the brackets attached to the transmission. The front and rear mounts are usually shot you can use the auto mounts but they do move around too much I've tried. The rear mount I'm using a Celica one front from the auto transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Check the connectors that attach to the cluster harness (behind the glove box) and also the ones that go to the connectors by the fuse box near the battery. If they are the same as the manual harness you're good. You should go back and grab the tranny bracket and mount by the battery in fact grab all the brackets attached to the transmission. The front and rear mounts are usually shot you can use the auto mounts but they do move around too much I've tried. The rear mount I'm using a Celica one front from the auto transmission.
I'll have to check next time I clean my interior, since I have yet to vacuum in the covered areas.

And, the bracket meaning the one that supports the stuff that connects to the positive terminal on the battery? That was gone and held in by twist ties or something lol, that whole area was a mess so I was going to get it from another car.

But in terms of mounts is it just the rubber mount and not the bracket or whatever it goes into? Since if it's just the rubber piece, those are readily available online.

I'll have to wait for another car to come in though since the junkyard started clearing out inventory and bringing in new cars. I'll also have to bring some good penetrating fluid next time since so many bolts/ nuts were pretty frozen haha.
 

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I am talking about the 3 brackets that attach directly the transmission, well 4 if you count the LH one which is two pieces. They are all gen2 Camry specific. Aftermarket mounts are terrible all of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I am talking about the 3 brackets that attach directly the transmission, well 4 if you count the LH one which is two pieces. They are all gen2 Camry specific. Aftermarket mounts are terrible all of them.
Ah okay, I'll have to get the next time, besides being frozen on the car I was getting parts from there was also a puddle of water underneath the car from rain haha..

And I haven't had a bad experience from aftermarket mounts, yet at least. Replaced all but the passenger mount so far I think. Rubber was getting brittle and shredding on the old ones, new ones holding up decently so far.
Not sure what would be the problem with them, besides maybe not lasting as long?
 

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And I haven't had a bad experience from aftermarket mounts, yet at least. Replaced all but the passenger mount so far I think. Rubber was getting brittle and shredding on the old ones, new ones holding up decently so far.
Not sure what would be the problem with them, besides maybe not lasting as long?
Brand? Every one I've seen lasted 2-3 years then cracked and failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
And I haven't had a bad experience from aftermarket mounts, yet at least. Replaced all but the passenger mount so far I think. Rubber was getting brittle and shredding on the old ones, new ones holding up decently so far.
Not sure what would be the problem with them, besides maybe not lasting as long?
Brand? Every one I've seen lasted 2-3 years then cracked and failed.
Perhaps I haven't had mine for long enough yet then lol! Only been about a year and a half. I'll have to report back on them later on this year. The brand is the AutoZone brand, duralast, I think. Their stuff isn't amazing but it's gotten the job done so far.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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I've pulled parts from multiple 5-speed SV21's (and one VZV21) none had a starter relay so unless this is a U.S. only thing I don't think it exists.
Oh its there. It bypasses the starter solenoid current around the clutch start switch. No mention of any Canada/US differences in the diagrams, and it has been on both OEM manual trans Camrys I have owned - and the wiring was there for it on my Alltrac (originally auto). It sends the power to a different pin on on the K1 connector, and the manual transmission engine harness uses that to power the starter solenoid.

-Charlie
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Not sure what would be the problem with them, besides maybe not lasting as long?
Aftermarket rubber parts on the Camry are a bad choice... They generally last less than 1/10 as long as OEM stuff, and you only save about 50%. If available, always go OEM - unless you want your car to be suddenly as reliable as a Chrysler product... (for a number of other parts the aftermarket stuff basically never works right in the first place - thermostat, radiator cap, gaskets, etc.)

-Charlie
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Not in my '90 5-speed.
Then your car starts without the clutch pressed in? The clutch start switch is too small to handle the current required for the starter solenoid.

-Charlie
 

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Then your car starts without the clutch pressed in? The clutch start switch is too small to handle the current required for the starter solenoid.

-Charlie
I'll look at my silver car again when I get a chance, google tells me the relay looks like this, correct or no? Clutch switch (both) work properly.

 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Hmm, well for the shifter line hole is it possible to Dremel from the inside? I didn't have to much difficulty squeezing under the dash and felt pretty roomy under there for me <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Laugh out loud" class="inlineimg" />

Was also going to just grab a reman slave and master cylinder. It costs about the same for what I'd pay at the junkyard lol, that and the master was missing a few parts.

As for the harness, I already grabbed the manual one, but the car was an 89, mine is a 90. But i'm not super sure what the differences are. (Hoping I won't have too many problems, but idunno).
I'm not that great at custom wiring stuff either, so the option with less of that I have to do was better for me haha.

And the transmission will probably end up being whatever is more cost effective and available, since this is going to be a very slow project.

Couple minor questions about the transmission mounts I have also. I'm assuming I need the rear and side mounts? The whole metal bracket? But do I also need the front motor mount as well?
Didn't grab those because they were frozen and I didn't have a breaker/ cheater bar or power tools.

Many thanks for the pictures though, will be good additional references!
Don't cheap out on this stuff. You need a lot more parts that you are thinking at this point. When you are at the junkyard, always grab the 'extra' parts that are attached to things. When you pull a harness, grab 6"+ of 'extra' harness on the other side of every connector. Leave every bolt, nut, etc. in place or re-threaded into each hole/stud, grab all plastic clips, brackets, etc. The body is mostly the same between the manual and auto cars (minus shifter cable and clutch master holes, mostly) but many other parts are different. Anything that is near the transmission is/might be different... Heck, even the throttle body is different between the auto and manual cars...

There were differences in the dash to engine harness connections between my '90 base FWD (US built, California emissions) and my '89 LE Alltrac (Japan built, also California emissions I think). I had to completely re-wire at least one connector (the details are fuzzy in my memory at this point). At least the wire colors didn't change... Worst case, you can use your MT harness for reference and the reverse light plug... (though, you could have just cut that off the vehicle you were going to get the trans from...)

For everyone else reading this: I will say it again... the right way to do this is to buy a complete donor car. It *will* be cheaper and easier.

-Charlie

edit: PS... there are 4 manual transmission Camrys up for auction in the near future within 500 miles of me. Probably can be had for <$500. Non-running cars are *perfect* for a transmissions swap. Otherwise worthless, great for other parts.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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I'll look at my silver car again when I get a chance, google tells me the relay looks like this, correct or no? Clutch switch (both) work properly.

Yup. Just visible if you stick your head up in the footwell area. Top right side.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Hmm, well when the next one rolls around I'll have to grab a bunch of stuff, or would it be more worth to save up for a donor car? This project is going to be very very slow (a year or longer potentially), since I don't have a second car and the Camry is my daily currently.. I'm mostly part and information gathering at the moment. That, and I don't have quite enough room in my garage for storing big parts like the transmission (I also don't have space for a donor car, small house problems lol!)

I'm hoping the parts I grabbed and my car don't differ too much, since it was a us built 89, Cali emissions, and mine is a us built 90, Cali emissions.

But, now I have a better understanding of what I should be looking out for, etc. I may have missed the window on grabbing the extra stuff on the one car, but lkq was having a 40% off sale so it didn't cost all too much either <img src="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Laugh out loud" class="inlineimg" />


As for the OEM vs aftermarket, I usually grab oem stuff but aftermarket is sometimes more available, etc. Usually I only grab aftermarket parts if it's urgent, even then I try to go with the one that has the best reputation.


Also, is there a website or something to keep an eye out for car auctions? I'm not too sure what people use.

Editing after re-reading the a/t > m/t thread from 2012 again. Is this the relay you are referring to? The k1. Screenshot below.

Not sure how to properly link stuff, but that thread is pretty much going to be the bulk of my guide whenever I get to this. I just made this thread for a few lingering questions and clarifications.
To anyone reading, if you havent already, you should check it out. It's nogard's "1990 Camry Auto to Manual transmission project picture documentation" thread from 2012 I think.
 

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Toyota Collector
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Yup. Just visible if you stick your head up in the footwell area. Top right side.

-Charlie
You are correct this in from my 1987 I thought the green relay was for something else, and I don't remember putting it in there. :ughcool: On the plus side I don't have to do the starter relay mod.


Hmm, well when the next one rolls around I'll have to grab a bunch of stuff, or would it be more worth to save up for a donor car?.
Donor car is the way to go you're guaranteed to have everything you need. Also you can make a template for where to cut the firewall otherwise you're making a best guess. If you don't find a donor then a couple other things you'll need that come to mind of course the starter relay and also the TPS is different. So is the throttle body like Charlie said but I see no reason you can't use the auto one.

1987-88 auto/manual use the same ECU after that the manual got a specific ECU. I did run the auto ECU for awhile then put in a 1989 ECU and engine harness car runs better the auto ECU was a bit harsh at very light throttle like the computer didn't know how much fuel to supply.

One thing I regret is not using 5S injectors supposedly the higher flow makes the engine run a bit better.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ah ok, so it is that. I thought the starter mod involved splicing, why didn't you have to do that?

I'll probably wait up for a donor car. Saving up the few hundred for one wouldn't be all that difficult. Just being patient and waiting for one will be the hard part..

And do the injectors use the same connection? (Or is there a standard connector for injectors?)
 

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Ah ok, so it is that. I thought the starter mod involved splicing, why didn't you have to do that?
I did swap the cowl harness because my '87 did not come with power locks or windows no provision to add the door lock box and relay the connectors are not there. So maybe I swapped that fuse block in as well don't remember. I can check some part numbers later on.
And do the injectors use the same connection? (Or is there a standard connector for injectors?)
Same connector. Using the 5S injectors may help or may do nothing or the engine could run worse not sure.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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You are correct this in from my 1987 I thought the green relay was for something else, and I don't remember putting it in there. :ughcool: On the plus side I don't have to do the starter relay mod.
Blammo! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. :)

But no, the starter relay mod still helps. The stock starter relay on the manual transmission cars just bypasses current around the clutch start switch - all the starter solenoid current still passes through the key switch, 10+ feet of wires, etc. (it actually has MORE connections to go through on the manual trans cars...)

-Charlie
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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1987-88 auto/manual use the same ECU after that the manual got a specific ECU. I did run the auto ECU for awhile then put in a 1989 ECU and engine harness car runs better the auto ECU was a bit harsh at very light throttle like the computer didn't know how much fuel to supply.
Maybe I should go through my 3s-fe parts pile and see what stuff I can offer. I have a few ECUs (I think mostly auto though...) alternators, AFMs, etc. that I don't think I'll ever need. I just can't bring myself to throw them away but I am too lazy to eBay them.

-Charlie
 

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Blammo! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. :)

-Charlie
I might be. Took a look at some part numbers the relay block LH kick panel is the same auto/manual (for a 1987 didn't check other years) I couldn't find any differences in the various harness part numbers except for the engine.
 
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