A quick summary of where I'm at. I picked up a used 2000 Toyota Camry 2.2L 5S-FE with a little over 124k on it. Runs great, but the waterpump went out completely. The weephole is streaming more than weeping and the bearings have a wobble chewing the inside of my timing belt all to hell. Easy R&R a WB and TB should be a weekend job right? Not quite and I know some of you are laughing already. I have big arms, hands, and fingers making it even rougher. I got the top timing belt cover off no problem, although I did completely take the engine mount off, big hands = in my dang way! Removed the battery / battery tray, breather box, and slid the cruise control box over to remove the starter so I could jam the flywheel from there. Here comes my first major roadblock of the whole ordeal. My father in law and I are pretty strong fella's, but the crank pulley bolt is completely kicking our asses! I was lifting myself off the ground on a 15" breakerbar, my FIN had the same results. Stupid question #1: The conventional righty-tighty lefty-loosey applies to this bolt correct? I'm almost 100% certain it does. If so any advice on how to break this thing short of renting an impact wrench? I believe my local parts house only rents the electric ones, will they provide ample torque to pop it loose? Any advice you guys can share will be greatly appreciated. I gave it a good dose of WD-40 right before I shut-down for the evening, with a little luck that may play out for me.
Crank pulley nightmare!
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Read "sticky" topics!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220549
You can find there descriptions of DIY timing belt change (no matter gen3 or gen4 Camry, 2,2 liter engines are the same as long as we talk about timing belt job).
You can try "bump start" method or get yourself a gun (electric or air impact wrench).
You will also need some "ghetto-tool" that will hold crank pulley wheel during unscrewing this devil bolt.
Liquids like "WD-40" (or "PB Blaster") will help, but just a little bit.
Instead this you can also use kerosene, brake fluid, ATF (alone or mixed with acetone solvent).
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220549
You can find there descriptions of DIY timing belt change (no matter gen3 or gen4 Camry, 2,2 liter engines are the same as long as we talk about timing belt job).
You can try "bump start" method or get yourself a gun (electric or air impact wrench).
You will also need some "ghetto-tool" that will hold crank pulley wheel during unscrewing this devil bolt.
Liquids like "WD-40" (or "PB Blaster") will help, but just a little bit.
Instead this you can also use kerosene, brake fluid, ATF (alone or mixed with acetone solvent).
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2,943 Posts
im 135 pounds sopping wet and couldnt get mine crank bolt to budge so i resorted to doing the starter bump method. worked like a charm!
That would make a great YouTube video.
Two guys working on their car. And LeRoy is heard to say, "I can't get the bolt loose, Bubba." To which Bubba replies, well wait a minute, I'll hold the timing belt with my teeth, while you turn the big breaker bar. After many attempts, and a couple of loose teeth, they are about to give up.
Then along comes Mr. HelpingHand who calmly inquires what the problem is. Of course Bubba and LeRoy are not impressed, but tell their story anyway. Mr. HelpingHand calmly takes the breaker bar from Bubba, places it on the nut, wedges it against the pavement, and then proceedes to remove the EFI fuse, and bumps the starter. Sure enough the nut comes loose and Mr. HelpingHand gives the bolt and breaker bar to the bewildered pair, and turns and walks away.
Both Bubba and LeRoy shout, "Hey Thanks" as Mr. HelpingHand calmly walks down the street, and with a grin on his face he pulls the EFI fuse from his pocket, and throws it in the field along side of the road.
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Two guys working on their car. And LeRoy is heard to say, "I can't get the bolt loose, Bubba." To which Bubba replies, well wait a minute, I'll hold the timing belt with my teeth, while you turn the big breaker bar. After many attempts, and a couple of loose teeth, they are about to give up.
Then along comes Mr. HelpingHand who calmly inquires what the problem is. Of course Bubba and LeRoy are not impressed, but tell their story anyway. Mr. HelpingHand calmly takes the breaker bar from Bubba, places it on the nut, wedges it against the pavement, and then proceedes to remove the EFI fuse, and bumps the starter. Sure enough the nut comes loose and Mr. HelpingHand gives the bolt and breaker bar to the bewildered pair, and turns and walks away.
Both Bubba and LeRoy shout, "Hey Thanks" as Mr. HelpingHand calmly walks down the street, and with a grin on his face he pulls the EFI fuse from his pocket, and throws it in the field along side of the road.
.
use the starter blip method. just get a breaker bar (long one), attach it to 19mm crank bolt with a 1/2'' 6-point deep socket (to avoid rounding which can happen with a shallow 12-point socket) and lock it against the ground (engine turns clockwise, remember that!), then simply unplug spark plug wires (and/or remove the EFI fuse, read below), re-connect the battery temporarily and "blip" the starter for 1-2 seconds. crank bolt WILL get loosened, guaranteed.
you should also remove the 15A blue EFI fuse from Main Fuse Box as mentioned above, it disables the fuel pump and whole EFI circuit, so no fuel will get pumped into cylinders while turning engine with starter blip method.
use the Harmonic Balancer puller on the crank pulley itself to separate it from shaft. mine was rusted as hell to the shaft and I'm not a weak guy either, for the life of me I couldn't even budge it off a little until I used the puller (you will also need a pair of M6x1.00 bolts 50mm long and big 3/4'' wide M6 washers for it to work with autozone HB puller).
Autozone loans this puller for free (refundable deposit required), I would get also a 1/2'' breaker bar (24'' long)
you should also remove the 15A blue EFI fuse from Main Fuse Box as mentioned above, it disables the fuel pump and whole EFI circuit, so no fuel will get pumped into cylinders while turning engine with starter blip method.
use the Harmonic Balancer puller on the crank pulley itself to separate it from shaft. mine was rusted as hell to the shaft and I'm not a weak guy either, for the life of me I couldn't even budge it off a little until I used the puller (you will also need a pair of M6x1.00 bolts 50mm long and big 3/4'' wide M6 washers for it to work with autozone HB puller).
Autozone loans this puller for free (refundable deposit required), I would get also a 1/2'' breaker bar (24'' long)
I LOLed at that 
it would make a nice cartoon
hey, you actually recorded a video on how breaker bar is attached to crank bolt and you blip the starter why not post it here
surely there will be no Bubba, LeRoy and Mr. HelpingHand, but always something hehe :thumbsup:
it would make a nice cartoon
hey, you actually recorded a video on how breaker bar is attached to crank bolt and you blip the starter
why not post it here surely there will be no Bubba, LeRoy and Mr. HelpingHand, but always something hehe :thumbsup:
Well, I can't take any credit for this. It was posted in another thread on doing the timing belt. I think either by dz63 or maybe mark780 but I can't remember for sure. Anyway, here it is.hey, you actually recorded a video on how breaker bar is attached to crank bolt and you blip the starter
.
ah, gotcha! I thought it's yours
anyways, it's a good video showing how the starter blip works :thumbsup:
anyways, it's a good video showing how the starter blip works :thumbsup:
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12,549 Posts
In that video, I'm amazed at how tight that crank bolt was, took a few tries to finally free it. That happened to me once, stopped the engine dead, so I left the breaker bar a few inches away from the concrete floor so it would get up to speed before it stopped. Came right off. Best method ever.
it worked like a charm for me too, the easiest & fastest method to loosen that bolt. worked right the first time for me.
Amazing group of folks
I just have to say first off I am duly impressed by you guys, quick and knowledgeable responses! Also, I farmed the stickys, speaking of the 2part TB WP and seals DIY was amazing and I need to go back and give thumbs up! I took the day off to coat it with some PB Blaster and plan on smacking it with a hammer some in the morning to try and break loose some of the rust tension. The starter bump method seems to be held in high regards around here, just curious but has anyone broken a crank doing this? I dont want anybody to feel insulted or anything. Its just new things seem suspicious to me no matter how great they sound. It serious does sound like a solid idea, Mister_Perkins suggested the same thing to me also. HUGE thanks for the video btw, I would deffinently block mine up similar to this if I cant get it to budge after the pb blaster soak. A few quick questions on the bump method though.
1. ONLY bump the starter enough to throw the starter gear out and engage the flywheel long enough to as the name implies "blip" the crank?
2. What is the risk of breaking the crank doing this? (I will have an assistant to watch my progress)
I have a feeling the nail in the coffin here is the fact that the 90-100k maintenance got skipped and the crank bolt more or less just rust ceased in position :facepalm: lol As always guys thank you all so much for the friendly advice to a fellow shade tree mechanic lol
I just have to say first off I am duly impressed by you guys, quick and knowledgeable responses! Also, I farmed the stickys, speaking of the 2part TB WP and seals DIY was amazing and I need to go back and give thumbs up! I took the day off to coat it with some PB Blaster and plan on smacking it with a hammer some in the morning to try and break loose some of the rust tension. The starter bump method seems to be held in high regards around here, just curious but has anyone broken a crank doing this? I dont want anybody to feel insulted or anything.
Its just new things seem suspicious to me no matter how great they sound. It serious does sound like a solid idea, Mister_Perkins suggested the same thing to me also. HUGE thanks for the video btw, I would deffinently block mine up similar to this if I cant get it to budge after the pb blaster soak. A few quick questions on the bump method though.1. ONLY bump the starter enough to throw the starter gear out and engage the flywheel long enough to as the name implies "blip" the crank?
2. What is the risk of breaking the crank doing this? (I will have an assistant to watch my progress)
I have a feeling the nail in the coffin here is the fact that the 90-100k maintenance got skipped and the crank bolt more or less just rust ceased in position :facepalm: lol As always guys thank you all so much for the friendly advice to a fellow shade tree mechanic lol
I used PB Blaster too initially (5 mins before I "blipped" it).
never heard of anyone braking the bolt head off by this ... but I know how it feels, kinda like scary to block the bolt against floor (with a bar) and turn the engine right?
no worries, even if it is rusted after more than 90k miles, it shouldn't break off (it's a 19mm head bolt, it's big and thick stud, so should be easily able to withstand hundreds ft-lbs of torque, especially when turning it counter clock wise), so quick blip or two will break it free from rust. PB Blaster soak will surely help on this.
I'd say, unless it's welded in, it will safely break free (and not off)
never heard of anyone braking the bolt head off by this ... but I know how it feels, kinda like scary to block the bolt against floor (with a bar) and turn the engine right?
no worries, even if it is rusted after more than 90k miles, it shouldn't break off (it's a 19mm head bolt, it's big and thick stud, so should be easily able to withstand hundreds ft-lbs of torque, especially when turning it counter clock wise), so quick blip or two will break it free from rust. PB Blaster soak will surely help on this.
I'd say, unless it's welded in, it will safely break free (and not off)
Thanks
Well since you guys told me how to snap the head off the bolt, who wants to volunteer on helping me tap and remove the stud! lol Naw just kidding around guys, I'm in a great mood today. I finally broke down and switched out for the 2' breaker bar and tried out the starter bump method. I was having some trouble getting that sucker to stick since I recently moved and I have next to nothing in the way of SST's (wood blocks, lengths of pipe, ect) So I imprivised and used the rim to hold it square and brace from left or right shifting. Actual pressure was only applied to the cement so no worries on bending the rim. Just like in the video 1st bump nada, 2nd bump nada, 3rd bump my ol' lady freaked out "IT WORKED IT WORKED!" and acted like I was the single most brilliant man she had ever met lol Surprisingly the crank pulley actually came right off, so easily in fact I busted my thumb on the back of the fender well. It's all downhill from here it would seem. Just figured I'd give you guys a head up and say thanks. And add a thanks to Mister_Perkins for some added help he provided me before I popped this thread. :chug:
Well since you guys told me how to snap the head off the bolt, who wants to volunteer on helping me tap and remove the stud! lol Naw just kidding around guys, I'm in a great mood today. I finally broke down and switched out for the 2' breaker bar and tried out the starter bump method. I was having some trouble getting that sucker to stick since I recently moved and I have next to nothing in the way of SST's (wood blocks, lengths of pipe, ect) So I imprivised and used the rim to hold it square and brace from left or right shifting. Actual pressure was only applied to the cement so no worries on bending the rim. Just like in the video 1st bump nada, 2nd bump nada, 3rd bump my ol' lady freaked out "IT WORKED IT WORKED!" and acted like I was the single most brilliant man she had ever met lol Surprisingly the crank pulley actually came right off, so easily in fact I busted my thumb on the back of the fender well. It's all downhill from here it would seem. Just figured I'd give you guys a head up and say thanks. And add a thanks to Mister_Perkins for some added help he provided me before I popped this thread. :chug:
It's going like cake so far, cept for the fact I totally forgot the WP housing is more or less free floating when the pump is out. I thought my metal gasket had slipped and was blocking the holes but it was the housing being off by a 1/4". easy fix for easy times lol just a few parts left to bolt up and shes done for!:chug:
Hey, didn't even realize there was a posting on here. lol :thumbsup:
Glad it worked out for ya. Maybe this should be stickied in the DIY Articles because the Starter blip does work for those who cant get the stubborn bolts off!
Best of luck to you in the future bud
Glad it worked out for ya. Maybe this should be stickied in the DIY Articles because the Starter blip does work for those who cant get the stubborn bolts off!
Best of luck to you in the future bud
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