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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to everyone! As the title says, my cruise cuts out on my 2003 Corolla. It can be fine for half hour, then bang cuts off. I can reset it, but doesn't seem to last as long as the first session. Anyone have this issue or have any insight on it? Thanks Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The cruise acts as if the brake was tapped to shut it off, if that makes sense. You don't have to push the cruise button to go again, just pull the lever to set cruise speed again.
 

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That's strange. It could be a bad switch. Or the actuator could be faulty since yours has the throttle cable system which I'm not familiar with. Are all the cables intact?
 

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MildlyModded
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Have you checked the fuses? Thats all my manual recommends and if any further diagnosis beyond a scan tool is needed you should take it to a mechanic.
 

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I just had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM on my 2003 Corolla! Works for 10-20 minutes, then disengages. It turned out to be a bad cruise control module (part 88240-02050). {I had first replaced the cruise control actuator with used one which ended up not being it.} I just got a used one off eBay for $29.40 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cruise-Control-Module-P-N-88240-02050-Fit-03-04-Toyota-Corolla-Thru-4-04-R281508/312051925814?hash=item48a7be8336:g:jq0AAOSwgeBaZ78X:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!55104!US!-1&vxp=mtr) which works fine. You have to remove the dash instrument cluster (has speedo, etc) to get at the cruise control module (it's right behind it).
 

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The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
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The car is now 15yrs old, I think that's pretty much end of life for the actuator and Cruise system as a whole now.

I used to have the same problem in my 91 Corolla, then same thing in my 84 Celica Supra... just basically wrote it off as being too old to work properly due to age. I'm more comfortable using no Cruise as I'm not one to sit at the same speed for long periods of time.
 

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$20000 new and car can't even last 15 years! And mine was actually made in Japan - not some shoddy work quality assembly plant in the USA (which are EXTREMELY well known for their poor quality assembly). WOW. So the Japanese have now degraded to the American poor quality car designs? And after all the decades of hype and world wide top quality/design boasting (which IMHO it WAS top quality and top design). Of course it's still ions above where the American cars still are.
 

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$20000 new and car can't even last 15 years! And mine was actually made in Japan - not some shoddy work quality assembly plant in the USA (which are EXTREMELY well known for their poor quality assembly). WOW. So the Japanese have now degraded to the American poor quality car designs? And after all the decades of hype and world wide top quality/design boasting (which IMHO it WAS top quality and top design). Of course it's still ions above where the American cars still are.

Your only issue is the Cruise control, quitting, and not anything else?
 

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No. There's been things over the years. It's the wife's car and she's the original owner but I do all my own work on it (I've worked on cars for 50 years and know what I'm doing). I just replaced a rusted through fuel tank yesterday (fuming up the garage). Before that there was the cruise control ECU, timing chain and it's tensioner, all valve lifters adjustment (which is replacing them all with correct measured thickness new ones - have to remove camshafts to do), all wheel bearing hubs twice, catalytic converter (warranty after just 2 years of buying the car new), both O2 sensors, thermostat, brake wheel cylinder, spark plugs, accessory drive belt and tensioner both twice, battery 3 times, seat belt ECU (recall), starter, fix rust at body shop in front of rear wheels, water pump, flush cooling system 3 times to try to get passenger side heat (which didn't help and we've never had heat there in the last 10 years), air bag clock spring, air bag inflator (recall), front door glass bolt (recall), new brake rotors (turned them until couldn't anymore), new headlight assemblies (glass yellowed/scratched too much), stop light switch, spiral cable clock spring again to fix horn this time, fog light hole covers which got destroyed and then fell off by normal highway driving, and wheel cover which keeps falling off (finally gave up and just left it off). And of course the normal maintenance stuff of oil changes, tires, light bulbs, wipers, brake pads, waxing, filters, etc. I keep detail records of everything I do on all my vehicles.

All in all I'm not real dissatisfied with the car considering most of these things on any 15 year old car go out. And it's a lot more reliable than any other car we've had. Toyota's have always had a reputation for quality and reliable cars. However, I get a little miffed that IN THIS DAY IN AGE, NO ONE CAN MAKE ANY CAR LAST EVEN 10 YEARS WITHOUT EITHER MAJOR OR TOO, TOO, TOO MANY ENDLESS SMALLER THINGS GOING WRONG (can you tell I'm over 60?). And the fuel tank should never rust out (it rusted around the breather hose spout). And the engine doesn't even have hydraulic lifters! It has solid valve lifters which, with no gap adjustment, will ALWAYS wear down and you must measure and buy new ones of the correct new thickness (which only a mechanic or someone extremely knowledgeable on engines can do). That's the design. When the engine starts making the unmistakable constant clack, clacking noise after 80k-100k miles, you know it's lifter time. For curiosity I asked a Toyota mechanic about it and what they would charge. He told me they never ever do it and they can't even get the lifters. I had to order them from a special national Toyota warehouse that ordered them from Japan and wait 3 weeks to get them.
 

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Surely you can understand that the strategic plan is for the few old people like you (us) to just die off and go away.

Just get a 36 month lease and before it is even up, convince yourself that you cannot afford to be driving an unreliable car after the lease period (and the new cars have more safety features); so go renew your lease on that new model. The salesperson will be real nice to you too.
 

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ha, ha :). But then I'd be like everyone else - tee, hee. Can't have that!

Plus I always like to keep a car for a long time so ends up costing way less to purchase it in that case than lease it. And of course I like to change things like suspension, etc which you can't do on a lease. Leasing a car also always costs around 3 times more than buying since you're depreciating 5 cars each to 1/2 their value instead of just one to 1/5th it's value. Plus it requires full coverage on all of them the entire time. Plus up front down payment and contract service/other fees which you never get back (thus dealers love you leasing as it's all pure profit for them taking all this money from you). Plus paying for extra mileage on the car at re-lease time than their minimum (which is always a ridiculously low figure you'll go over). Yes, dealers hate me when they find out I purchase instead of lease (so tons of money over the lease period they won't get). And there's no trade in value since you never purchased it (don't own it). And you still have to pay for repairing the car and all maintenance yourself (except for warranty items and sometimes oil changes which is leasing's only advantage). But think about it - what brand new car is going to have a major repair in the first 3 years? People are so snowed into leases, paying SO much more than purchasing, because why - you just said it - they are convinced cars are too unreliable after just 3-5 years (and nearly all leases are 3 years so dealers get manufacturers warranty so they don't have to pay anything for your car repair - so you're then forced into a new lease, and 1/2 depreciation every 3 years). And dealers cash in BIG TIME on peoples belief of this unreliability. What a beautiful scam - I should have been a car dealer!

I buy and enjoy driving a car for it's handling (aka sports car enthusiast). I compete in sports car rallies just for this purpose of enjoying the car. It's not something to just get me from here to there and bring home groceries like it is for most people. So in that regard I may be a unique case. My car is a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo which I bought new and of course maintain. I have to admit it's nowhere as reliable as the wife's Corolla! {You could easily say it needs someone like me to keep it running all these 19 years! I've rebuilt the M/T 3 times. I'm actually a Wiseman on the DSMTuners web site and give repair advice to Eclipse owners.}
 

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No. There's been things over the years. It's the wife's car and she's the original owner but I do all my own work on it (I've worked on cars for 50 years and know what I'm doing). I just replaced a rusted through fuel tank yesterday (fuming up the garage). Before that there was the cruise control ECU, timing chain and it's tensioner, all valve lifters adjustment (which is replacing them all with correct measured thickness new ones - have to remove camshafts to do), all wheel bearing hubs twice, catalytic converter (warranty after just 2 years of buying the car new), both O2 sensors, thermostat, brake wheel cylinder, spark plugs, accessory drive belt and tensioner both twice, battery 3 times, seat belt ECU (recall), starter, fix rust at body shop in front of rear wheels, water pump, flush cooling system 3 times to try to get passenger side heat (which didn't help and we've never had heat there in the last 10 years), air bag clock spring, air bag inflator (recall), front door glass bolt (recall), new brake rotors (turned them until couldn't anymore), new headlight assemblies (glass yellowed/scratched too much), stop light switch, spiral cable clock spring again to fix horn this time, fog light hole covers which got destroyed and then fell off by normal highway driving, and wheel cover which keeps falling off (finally gave up and just left it off). And of course the normal maintenance stuff of oil changes, tires, light bulbs, wipers, brake pads, waxing, filters, etc. I keep detail records of everything I do on all my vehicles.

All in all I'm not real dissatisfied with the car considering most of these things on any 15 year old car go out. And it's a lot more reliable than any other car we've had. Toyota's have always had a reputation for quality and reliable cars. However, I get a little miffed that IN THIS DAY IN AGE, NO ONE CAN MAKE ANY CAR LAST EVEN 10 YEARS WITHOUT EITHER MAJOR OR TOO, TOO, TOO MANY ENDLESS SMALLER THINGS GOING WRONG (can you tell I'm over 60?). And the fuel tank should never rust out (it rusted around the breather hose spout). And the engine doesn't even have hydraulic lifters! It has solid valve lifters which, with no gap adjustment, will ALWAYS wear down and you must measure and buy new ones of the correct new thickness (which only a mechanic or someone extremely knowledgeable on engines can do). That's the design. When the engine starts making the unmistakable constant clack, clacking noise after 80k-100k miles, you know it's lifter time. For curiosity I asked a Toyota mechanic about it and what they would charge. He told me they never ever do it and they can't even get the lifters. I had to order them from a special national Toyota warehouse that ordered them from Japan and wait 3 weeks to get them.

I see. The valve adjustment on the 1.8 and a few other Toyota engines, did give pause of whether it would be wise to buy one used. Ironically, or not, it is easier to check valve clearance and make any adjustments on the 2ZZ engine. Taking out the camshafts to do any adjustments looks like a lot of work and a big pain, so I can understand the mechanic's hesitation on doing this.The later 2ZR-FE does not need this adjustment, but may have excessive oil consumption issues(?). That being said the days of many cars lasting a long long time, have passed. It would not be economically advantageous for automakers if many people did not buy a new car.
 

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Well im
Having the exact issue. I realize this is an old thread....but was there ever a fix (too many getting off topic talking about the general opinion of the car etc)? Was it the module?
 

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Also possibly brake light switch under the brake pedal. Fixed this for me and the part was like 15 bucks new
 

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Toyota Corolla LE 2003 (140k miles) - Cruise control automatically disengages. Just started having this problem. The cruise is engaged on the highway, been driving for 30 minutes, car is warm, suddenly it disengages cruise. The moment it does this, the Cruise indicator light blinks for a split second (1/10 second), but it does stay on. Hence, the cruise button doesn't need to be pushed, and just pulling the cruise lever re-enables cruise again. This happens when the car is warm and hits a pothole or a bump in the road, and once it starts to happen it keeps happening and keeps getting worse and the cruise wont stay engaged. Does anyone know if this requires a Cruise control module replacement or is there a loose contact or relay that might be causing this? Thanks for your help.
 

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2006 Corolla XRS
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Might be the switch going out. The stalk will get bumped into when climbing in or out of the driver's seat.

The connector is behind the air bag and is routed through the spiral cable.
 

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My exact same problem I've been trying to diagnose. Ice grabbed several control modules from junkyards. Hooefukly one is good. I have a 04 xrs 2zz (cable) and I've grabbed one from an 03 Vibe GT. Also one from an XR and they seem to be different. Assuming the one from the gt will be just like my xrs. I don't recall which is which in this pic but just inna use whichever matches mine upon removal.
 

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