Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. So just last week I had my CVT replaced with a remanufactured CVT at my local Toyota Dealer. I was hearing a high pitched whine which has been covered in the forum before (it’s part of a TSB) and when they tried changing the valve body, the issue persisted and they got an check engine light instead. Soooooo they gave me a new transmission. I’m considering going back for a number of a reasons but I would like the insight of those perhaps more experienced. These are issues I’m having:
1. When in drive, but stopped at a light idling, sometimes the revs will drop practically to 500 and the car shakes a little then it picks the revs up and it’s fine. I had this happen before the repair and it turned out to be some bad gas from Wawa (do not recommend their gas ever) and I had to get my throttle body cleaned. Ever since I’ve only used Mobil gas. But after the repair I’m noticing that too. The service advisor who I actually do trust, told me that I should drive it around and see if it fixes itself. Since the battery was disconnected for the repair, the car lost all of its driving parameters and it needs to go through a relearn phase. I have noticed it getting better and actually I haven’t noticed it at all recently.
2. my gear selector is much much stiffer than before. Not to the point where it can’t be used, but definitely harder. The weird part is is that it’ll be hard, but then I’ll put it back in park and it’s soft again. Or softer rather. I want to assume that it’s because the transmission is new so all bearings are new and whatnot, and with time it’ll loosen up. I switched from a 40,000 mile CVT to a new one so perhaps that why I’m noticing this. But I’m not sure.
3. For some reason I feel as though the issue with 1 and 2 could be because they didn’t fill the transmission with enough CVT fluid. Could I be wrong? I know the car has a test mode to check the fluid levels and they can do that.
4. Sometimes in reverse, while applying the brakes I’ll hear a click and I can actually hear it through the center console too, leading me to believe that it could be the tranny.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks to everyone in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Hey everyone. So just last week I had my CVT replaced with a remanufactured CVT at my local Toyota Dealer. I was hearing a high pitched whine which has been covered in the forum before (it’s part of a TSB) and when they tried changing the valve body, the issue persisted and they got an check engine light instead. Soooooo they gave me a new transmission. I’m considering going back for a number of a reasons but I would like the insight of those perhaps more experienced. These are issues I’m having:
1. When in drive, but stopped at a light idling, sometimes the revs will drop practically to 500 and the car shakes a little then it picks the revs up and it’s fine. I had this happen before the repair and it turned out to be some bad gas from Wawa (do not recommend their gas ever) and I had to get my throttle body cleaned. Ever since I’ve only used Mobil gas. But after the repair I’m noticing that too. The service advisor who I actually do trust, told me that I should drive it around and see if it fixes itself. Since the battery was disconnected for the repair, the car lost all of its driving parameters and it needs to go through a relearn phase. I have noticed it getting better and actually I haven’t noticed it at all recently.
2. my gear selector is much much stiffer than before. Not to the point where it can’t be used, but definitely harder. The weird part is is that it’ll be hard, but then I’ll put it back in park and it’s soft again. Or softer rather. I want to assume that it’s because the transmission is new so all bearings are new and whatnot, and with time it’ll loosen up. I switched from a 40,000 mile CVT to a new one so perhaps that why I’m noticing this. But I’m not sure.
3. For some reason I feel as though the issue with 1 and 2 could be because they didn’t fill the transmission with enough CVT fluid. Could I be wrong? I know the car has a test mode to check the fluid levels and they can do that.
4. Sometimes in reverse, while applying the brakes I’ll hear a click and I can actually hear it through the center console too, leading me to believe that it could be the tranny.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks to everyone in advance!
I also had the TSB “hiss” done for my car at 31k miles valve body replaced. After they got it done, the whine is still there and the dealer did not put enough fluid on my car. But I don’t have your other symptoms.. car shifting really smooth since I redid the transmission fluid on it myself the right way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I also had the TSB “hiss” done for my car at 31k miles valve body replaced. After they got it done, the whine is still there and the dealer did not put enough fluid on my car. But I don’t have your other symptoms.. car shifting really smooth since I redid the transmission fluid on it myself the right way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for insight. Yeah the whine for sure is still there so I feel like I did this for no reason. They tried doing the valve body but I think they did a crappy job because afterwards it was throwing a check engine light code that said that the valve body was clogged. So they changed the tranny. The actual tranny shifts fine. I can’t complain about it. It isn’t jerky or anything. It’s just the actual shifter. It’s like there is some resistance almost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I’m at 43k miles now. CVT still good. “Noise” still there haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m curious on the level of expertise that you would say is required to do the fluid job on your own? I’m always down to try and do it myself, but I’m just worried about how to check the fluids since there isn’t a dip stick. My understanding is that you can tap two connections in the OBD2 port to put the car in test mode and have it electronically test the fluid levels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
I’m curious on the level of expertise that you would say is required to do the fluid job on your own? I’m always down to try and do it myself, but I’m just worried about how to check the fluids since there isn’t a dip stick. My understanding is that you can tap two connections in the OBD2 port to put the car in test mode and have it electronically test the fluid levels.
You need to Level the car, connect the two connections 4,13 and do sequencing shifts for the car to be in atf fluid temp mode. Super easy. Just need to be leveled. I have the official manual file from Toyota on how to do it. There are specific ways how to will it. And specific amount. Lemme know if u need it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You need to Level the car, connect the two connections 4,13 and do sequencing shifts for the car to be in atf fluid temp mode. Super easy. Just need to be leveled. I have the official manual file from Toyota on how to do it. There are specific ways how to will it. And specific amount. Lemme know if u need it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you don’t mind I’d be extremely appreciative if you can dm it to me. Since I’m assuming you have access to TIS, would you also happen to have access to the manual for the transmission replacement. Would like to plop that on my service advisor’s desk when I go tomorrow haha. You’re the best man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
If you don’t mind I’d be extremely appreciative if you can dm it to me. Since I’m assuming you have access to TIS, would you also happen to have access to the manual for the transmission replacement. Would like to plop that on my service advisor’s desk when I go tomorrow haha. You’re the best man
Lol I bought a 2 day TIS and only got the files regarding CVt fluid. And the TSB for hiss.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Diehard Rams Fan
Joined
·
20,630 Posts
Hey everyone. So just last week I had my CVT replaced with a remanufactured CVT at my local Toyota Dealer. I was hearing a high pitched whine which has been covered in the forum before (it’s part of a TSB) and when they tried changing the valve body, the issue persisted and they got an check engine light instead. Soooooo they gave me a new transmission. I’m considering going back for a number of a reasons but I would like the insight of those perhaps more experienced. These are issues I’m having:
1. When in drive, but stopped at a light idling, sometimes the revs will drop practically to 500 and the car shakes a little then it picks the revs up and it’s fine. I had this happen before the repair and it turned out to be some bad gas from Wawa (do not recommend their gas ever) and I had to get my throttle body cleaned. Ever since I’ve only used Mobil gas. But after the repair I’m noticing that too. The service advisor who I actually do trust, told me that I should drive it around and see if it fixes itself. Since the battery was disconnected for the repair, the car lost all of its driving parameters and it needs to go through a relearn phase. I have noticed it getting better and actually I haven’t noticed it at all recently.
2. my gear selector is much much stiffer than before. Not to the point where it can’t be used, but definitely harder. The weird part is is that it’ll be hard, but then I’ll put it back in park and it’s soft again. Or softer rather. I want to assume that it’s because the transmission is new so all bearings are new and whatnot, and with time it’ll loosen up. I switched from a 40,000 mile CVT to a new one so perhaps that why I’m noticing this. But I’m not sure.
3. For some reason I feel as though the issue with 1 and 2 could be because they didn’t fill the transmission with enough CVT fluid. Could I be wrong? I know the car has a test mode to check the fluid levels and they can do that.
4. Sometimes in reverse, while applying the brakes I’ll hear a click and I can actually hear it through the center console too, leading me to believe that it could be the tranny.
Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks to everyone in advance!
1. This can be a normal issue that won't hurt the car. It sounds like it might be gone though as your ECU relearns after the battery being disconnected.
2. Hard to say but if it feels okay and does move just fine I would think that it's okay. After a repair like this your mind will think many things are different, even if the difference is small.
3. You have 2 choices here. Take it back and have the dealer check the level or do it yourself. I would do it myself.
4. That sounds like the brakes, the parking brake, adjusting its self. Do you have rear drum brakes? They are usually a little louder when self-adjusting during reverse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
1. This can be a normal issue that won't hurt the car. It sounds like it might be gone though as your ECU relearns after the battery being disconnected.
2. Hard to say but if it feels okay and does move just fine I would think that it's okay. After a repair like this your mind will think many things are different, even if the difference is small.
3. You have 2 choices here. Take it back and have the dealer check the level or do it yourself. I would do it myself.
4. That sounds like the brakes, the parking brake, adjusting its self. Do you have rear drum brakes? They are usually a little louder when self-adjusting during reverse.
along with Supercharged's thoughts, not to dismiss your alertness. but i've often wondered when we have a major repair like that, how more observant we are to noises we didn't notice before? just a thought. maybe this is some of what you are experiencing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
1. This can be a normal issue that won't hurt the car. It sounds like it might be gone though as your ECU relearns after the battery being disconnected.
2. Hard to say but if it feels okay and does move just fine I would think that it's okay. After a repair like this your mind will think many things are different, even if the difference is small.
3. You have 2 choices here. Take it back and have the dealer check the level or do it yourself. I would do it myself.
4. That sounds like the brakes, the parking brake, adjusting its self. Do you have rear drum brakes? They are usually a little louder when self-adjusting during reverse.
along with Supercharged's thoughts, not to dismiss your alertness. but i've often wondered when we have a major repair like that, how more observant we are to noises we didn't notice before? just a thought. maybe this is some of what you are experiencing.
I think both of you may have been right. here are my updates:
1. It went away, and then I swapped my battery which was 4 years old and it came back, but it is slowly going away. It's crazy how much the computer controls the car.
2. I've stopped like thinking about it and I don't notice it stiff anymore to be honest. Regardless I took it back and they said nothing is wrong with it.
3. I took it back to the dealer. As much as I wanted to check it myself, I know my mother would've thrown a huge hissy fit and I wasn't in the mood for it. They checked the levels again and they are all good.
4. They said it was my brake pads. Specifically "brake shifting". My service advisor told me there's a grease to remove that sound, but he wouldn't even dare offer it to a customer because its a scam and it goes away after braking a couple times.
 

·
Diehard Rams Fan
Joined
·
20,630 Posts
I think both of you may have been right. here are my updates:

4. They said it was my brake pads. Specifically "brake shifting". My service advisor told me there's a grease to remove that sound, but he wouldn't even dare offer it to a customer because its a scam and it goes away after braking a couple times.
This isn't true. If you apply the brake grease to places of metal to metal contact like the slide pins, tabs and the back of the brake pads it won't go away and show be good for many years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
1. The rpm drop from idle is probably the engine computer. Our car does it a lot. Oddly it is fine after the battery is disconnected, but gets worse after driving it. It must be learning bad habits.
2. I would suspect your shift cable got damaged during the tranny swap, or it is routed poorly during reassembly
3. -
4. I'm sure they pulled the axles during the swap and perhaps disconnected the left side suspension to do that (I don't actually know the process). It could well be the brakes moving around or it could be a wheel alignment issue if the suspension was unbolted / rebolted. Does it steer any differently?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
This isn't true. If you apply the brake grease to places of metal to metal contact like the slide pins, tabs and the back of the brake pads it won't go away and show be good for many years.
the metal slide channels that hold the brake pads in place, that silglide (which is the grease he is talking about) doesn't go away but helps keep the metal the pads are laminated too from rusting and allows it to move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
1. The rpm drop from idle is probably the engine computer. Our car does it a lot. Oddly it is fine after the battery is disconnected, but gets worse after driving it. It must be learning bad habits.
2. I would suspect your shift cable got damaged during the tranny swap, or it is routed poorly during reassembly
3. -
4. I'm sure they pulled the axles during the swap and perhaps disconnected the left side suspension to do that (I don't actually know the process). It could well be the brakes moving around or it could be a wheel alignment issue if the suspension was unbolted / rebolted. Does it steer any differently?
I dont think they pulled the axle or any suspension parts. I was looking underneath and there's plenty of room to drop the tranny and switch it without touching the axle. It drives identical to before. Thanks for the shifter cable comment. I will let them know when I go for my maintenance in a couple weeks.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top