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Decision time

1392 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  75aces
Got some bad news today and I need to decide whether to put some money into my 2005 Matrix XR or start looking for something else.

Details: Needs new rocker panels/pinch welds. Estimate is for $2,300

127K. Runs great, looks great for a 15-year old car. Other than the rocker panels, there's no rust.

I've had her 5 years (I'm the third owner) and in that time there have been no significant problems except for replacing the water pump.

If I could get another 5 years/60,000 miles out of her without any major repairs, I'd be happy.

What has been your experience with this car? What expensive repairs am I likely to face in the next 5 years?
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"If I could get another 5 years/60,000 miles out of her without any major repairs, I'd be happy.
What has been your experience with this car? What expensive repairs am I likely to face in the next 5 years?"


Another 60,000 miles should be very easy without major repairs.
Can you post some pictures of the rust areas?
That would help in giving you ideas of what your dealing with and possible repairs for much less $$
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Here's my earlier post on this. It's tough to get a decent image without having the car on a lift, you get the idea. I think it's more than a patch: Rusty rocker panels

That said, if there's a cheaper alternative, I'm open to it!
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I would wash out all of that area the best you can (power washer, car wash spray or high flow from garden hose nozzel) and then allow it to dry for two days.

Then on your next warm day (~60 or more) I would purchase a can of fluid film and spray the entire can on all of that visible rust that you can see. Then a day or two later I would spray it all again with one or two cans of this product - CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor

I buy the 4 pack because it is a bit cheaper per can:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1VXTV...olid=2Y1PVGMPNJJI6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


The CRC will not wash out like the fluid film will.

For about $50 you might be able to almost stop that rust and might get more time or years depending on how bad it is - which I can't tell from a picture. It would have been best if you had found and addressed this some time ago.

Here is an example of some alternative jacking points that I used when washing out the underside of mine before doing the above mentioned rust prevention treatments. Of course never get under a vehicle unless you know how to secure it properly :

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The front fender liners trap a bunch of crud on these vehicles as well. You can NOT see what is behind them, but here is what I found before I cleaned it out a few years ago:

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Hey, thanks for the tip. I think this rust is too far advanced for spraying (I've been told it won't pass state inspection here in Maine), but it's good to know for the future. Interesting you mention the fender liners -- I've been thinking of removing mine. Any reason to leave them in, other than looks?
You can get a very solid running and driving car for $2-3k. Just scrap it. Not worth repairing for that much money. Could always buy a similar car and keep that one for parts if you have the space.
Got some bad news today and I need to decide whether to put some money into my 2005 Matrix XR or start looking for something else.

Details: Needs new rocker panels/pinch welds. Estimate is for $2,300

127K. Runs great, looks great for a 15-year old car. Other than the rocker panels, there's no rust.

I've had her 5 years (I'm the third owner) and in that time there have been no significant problems except for replacing the water pump.

If I could get another 5 years/60,000 miles out of her without any major repairs, I'd be happy.

What has been your experience with this car? What expensive repairs am I likely to face in the next 5 years?
Get another opinion/quote on the repair. Sounds kind of high. If the rest of the car is solid, repair it and come back here in 10 years saying how good the car has been ! :)
You can get a very solid running and driving car for $2-3k. Just scrap it. Not worth repairing for that much money. Could always buy a similar car and keep that one for parts if you have the space.
Get another opinion/quote on the repair. Sounds kind of high. If the rest of the car is solid, repair it and come back here in 10 years saying how good the car has been ! :)
Well, that's what I'm hoping for.
You could have chromoly tube subframe braces made for less than a thousand. Tie the rear trailing arm mount to where the k member bolts in at the front. Stiffer chassis, same ride. Find a motorsport chassis shop, less likely to rip you off
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