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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Preface: 2016 Toyota Corolla Le purchased as a certified used vehicle in 2019. Car had 14,475 miles on it. Currently has 54K miles on it. Recently noticed pulsing in brake pedal when braking and also could 'hear' an usual noise while braking. I started another thread here regarding recommendations for rotor and brake pad brands. Went with Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. The pictures attached are what I found when I replaced the rotors and pads. I did replace all the clips, had to 'file down' the brake pads a little as they didnt fit properly (i think this is common), used brake grease in the clips upon reassembly, and did not notice anything out of the ordinary when compressing the caliper pistons to make room for the new pads.
I did notice the 'pins' in the caliper bracket were difficult to move, but i did remove them, cleaned off the old grease, and applied Permatex caliper grease. I worked it around a bit and the pins moved much easier. This is what I 'think' caused the issue on the pads and rotors. (Sticky pins) Picures are as follows: Rotors (inside),drivers side outer pad, passenger side outer pad, driver's side inner pad, passenger side inner pad. Seeing as this car did not get much mileage on it between 2016-2019 (when i bought it), I can only assume it 'sat' a lot.
Automotive tire Wheel Road surface Tread Tire
Tire Wheel Car Hand Vehicle
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle White
Hand Tire Automotive tire Black Wheel
Hand Automotive tire Tire Finger Thumb
 

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イリジウム
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What Permatex grease did you use? Purple or Green? Because both of those are petroleum based and will damage rubber by causing them to swell. You'll need to get new pin boot kits on rockauto and replace them after a thorough cleaning and allow to dry.

Use only a JIS K2228 approved grease, such as CRC Silaramic. One member showed that Rockauto also has the Permatex orange Silicone Extreme. That works too.

If the pins are sticking, your new pads and rotors will be damaged as well. Also, was the caliper piston easy to push back? Or was it hard like the caliper pins?

Did you wirebrush the caliper bracket under the steel clips? Rust or dirt buildup could cause clearance issues with the pads. Akebonos are usually pretty precise.
 

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'21 Corolla LE - Celestite (1K3) / Black (FB20)
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You can use any silicone based paste on the slide pins. Either 3M or SilGlyde is what I prefer. I use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (it's orange) on all other contact surfaces.

Based on you photos, looks like you live in NY and it looks like salty water seeped into your boots on your slide pins. I would replace the pins and boots. Also, watch the South Main Auto channels videos on prepping brakes in the rust belt. I live in the SE and I still follow his way of doing it. It's definitely top notch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
What Permatex grease did you use? Purple or Green? Because both of those are petroleum based and will damage rubber by causing them to swell. You'll need to get new pin boot kits on rockauto and replace them after a thorough cleaning and allow to dry.

Use only a JIS K2228 approved grease, such as CRC Silaramic. One member showed that Rockauto also has the Permatex orange Silicone Extreme. That works too.

If the pins are sticking, your new pads and rotors will be damaged as well. Also, was the caliper piston easy to push back? Or was it hard like the caliper pins?

Did you wirebrush the caliper bracket under the steel clips? Rust or dirt buildup could cause clearance issues with the pads. Akebonos are usually pretty precise.
Green on the pins and purple on the slides. Caliper piston was easy to push back. Used wire brush on the caliper bracket. Rubber boots were in good condition. Pins no longer sticking after I cleaned them and used the green caliper grease on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can use any silicone based paste on the slide pins. Either 3M or SilGlyde is what I prefer. I use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (it's orange) on all other contact surfaces.

Based on you photos, looks like you live in NY and it looks like salty water seeped into your boots on your slide pins. I would replace the pins and boots. Also, watch the South Main Auto channels videos on prepping brakes in the rust belt. I live in the SE and I still follow his way of doing it. It's definitely top notch.
Yes I am in NY. You really think I need to replace the pins and the boots even though I cleaned the pins and used the green permatex caliper grease on the pins? They move much better now that I did that.
 

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'21 Corolla LE - Celestite (1K3) / Black (FB20)
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Only if where the pin boots seat on the pins (there is a lip) were rusty and you didn't clean them well enough. The uneven surface could cause water intrusion. Did you check to see if there was suction from the boots on the pins when you reassembled everything?
 

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Permatex green is petroleum based (so is the purple). I'd say that's the reason the pins are seized. They may move well for a short while, then it'll be back to seized again. Been there.

Therefore, yes, replace the boots and bushing after cleaning the bore and allow to dry. Check rockauto for parts. You can reuse the metal pins and bolts, but if you feel like changing them, then order together from rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Only if where the pin boots seat on the pins (there is a lip) were rusty and you didn't clean them well enough. The uneven surface could cause water intrusion. Did you check to see if there was suction from the boots on the pins when you reassembled everything?
They weren’t rusty at the lip. There was definitely suction from the boots on the pins after reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Permatex green is petroleum based (so is the purple). I'd say that's the reason the pins are seized. They may move well for a short while, then it'll be back to seized again. Been there.

Therefore, yes, replace the boots and bushing after cleaning the bore and allow to dry. Check rockauto for parts. You can reuse the metal pins and bolts, but if you feel like changing them, then order together from rockauto.
I understand what you’re saying, but these were the original brakes on the car. I don’t know if they had the green caliper grease on them prior to me removing them, cleaning them, and putting the green stuff on them.
 

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マズダスピード3
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Prior to brake service, did the car pull to either side under braking? From the pads, it indicates you have a stuck caliper. As it is more worn that the other side.
 

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Got it! Permatex just went on now. Granted we never really know the history of a pre-owned car, if the brakes had been serviced before even before 14K miles for example noise complaints, and if so what kind of grease was used. If they were serviced before and the pins are stuck I'd suspect petroleum based grease was at one time used.

Even if they were never serviced before, since they're sticking now, I'd still replace the boots and bushings and use an approved grease, especially you already put petroleum based grease in there.


I understand what you’re saying, but these were the original brakes on the car. I don’t know if they had the green caliper grease on them prior to me removing them, cleaning them, and putting the green stuff on them.
 

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'21 Corolla LE - Celestite (1K3) / Black (FB20)
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Especially in the rust belt, you should be cleaning and lubricating your brakes every 30k/36 months. I would also suggest you coat your hubs with Anti-Sieze and Fluid Film or something similar. No, this isn't in the manual, but it is a good rule of thumb.

I would at a minimum remove the slide pins and clean and lubricate them. You might want to do this every spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Prior to brake service, did the car pull to either side under braking? From the pads, it indicates you have a stuck caliper. As it is more worn that the other side.
Nope. I tested that prior to replacing the brakes. When i compressed the caliper pistons, they were not hard to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Especially in the rust belt, you should be cleaning and lubricating your brakes every 30k/36 months. I would also suggest you coat your hubs with Anti-Sieze and Fluid Film or something similar. No, this isn't in the manual, but it is a good rule of thumb.

I would at a minimum remove the slide pins and clean and lubricate them. You might want to do this every spring.
Yes, I did use anti-sieze on the hubs prior to installing the new rotors. I did remove/clean/lubicrate the pins before re-install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got it! Permatex just went on now. Granted we never really know the history of a pre-owned car, if the brakes had been serviced before even before 14K miles for example noise complaints, and if so what kind of grease was used. If they were serviced before and the pins are stuck I'd suspect petroleum based grease was at one time used.

Even if they were never serviced before, since they're sticking now, I'd still replace the boots and bushings and use an approved grease, especially you already put petroleum based grease in there.
Should I use brake cleaner to clean the bracket where the pins go to remove all the lubricant in there now?
 

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Should I use brake cleaner to clean the bracket where the pins go to remove all the lubricant in there now?
YES… I use a drill and drill bit with fine steel wool wrapped around it and stick it in a few times in each pin hole, than spray with brake cleaner and let dry before putting clean pins in...I think you should get new rubber bushings (fairly cheap on Rockauto)...than use any silicone based brake grease (I use 3M).
 

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Yes, I did use anti-sieze on the hubs prior to installing the new rotors. I did remove/clean/lubicrate the pins before re-install.
Burner, my comment was to suggest that you clean and lubricate, at a minimum, the slide pins every 36 months / 30k miles, even if you aren't changing your rotors and pads.

I further suggested that you focus on the slide pins every spring. This is to make sure your brakes stay in good operating condition since you live in the rust belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Burner, my comment was to suggest that you clean and lubricate, at a minimum, the slide pins every 36 months / 30k miles, even if you aren't changing your rotors and pads.

I further suggested that you focus on the slide pins every spring. This is to make sure your brakes stay in good operating condition since you live in the rust belt.
Ah, gotcha. Thanks for that.
 

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As others mentioned, use brake cleaner and allow to dry, also try the roto rooter job as well, at least with a q-tip if there's no corrosion inside the bore. (Verify correct applications below.)

Carlson 16153 boot kit for the front is only $2.78.

Brake clips Carlson P1184 is $5.03. Or you can get boots AND clips from Raybestos H15944A for $6.96 or Carlson 13465Q for $7.11.

If the caliper piston is sticking or its boot shows deterioration, then rebuild the caliper. The kit is about $2.50 each caliper.

Winter and road salt can also do a number of brake hoses. Sunsong is also reboxed by Centric and Raybestos. I'd just order Sunsong unless you want to spend for Toyota stuff.

And if you want new caliper pins:

Orange Permatex silicone ceramic extreme grease:

And use the 5% off discount code if you buy from rockauto, scroll to the newest post:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I went to my local AAP store and bought Silglyde, boots, bushings, and caliper pins. Just ran out of time today so I couldn’t install anything. May not be able to get to it for a week. I should be ok until then correct?
 
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