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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
05 XLS 2GRFE - recently change the thermostat at 267,000 due to heat issues and for some reason i am only loosing coolant when i drive. sometimes its 8 oz. and other times it the entire coolant reservoir - no leaks on the driveway, no leaks at the work parking lot, or for that matter, any parking lot...

if i am loosing it while driving where may it come from?, why not when left overnight, 8+ hours

any suggestions? thank you

tfhammer

LET'S GO PLACES!
 

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I would check the water pump. If the weep hole is leaking, meaning pump needs replaced, it will only happen when running. But it could be other things leaking as well like the radiator, but only shows up when the system is hot and under pressure. These engines are notorious for water pump failures though so I would start there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would check the water pump. If the weep hole is leaking, meaning pump needs replaced, it will only happen when running. But it could be other things leaking as well like the radiator, but only shows up when the system is hot and under pressure. These engines are notorious for water pump failures though so I would start there.
thank you Sambojoho - i forgot to mention that i did perform the "bleeding" on the system, removing as much air out of the system as possible

i appreciate the feedback!

tfhammer
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No problem. Check the area directly under the water pump for dried crusty drips. Pink in color if you are using the toyota coolant. Mine was running down the oil filter. Replaced the water pump and solved the problem
 

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If it's not leaking where you can see, ( per the reply below Toyota coolant leaves tracks to the source, very helpful) it's leaking where you can't. Pull the dipstick clear/dirty oil or milkshake? Heater core leaking, windshield suddenly fogging up, or head gasket/cracked head, its going out the tail pipe. In this case the coolant can coat the cats and add P0420/421 insult to injury. Invest in a UV dye kit with a lamp you connect to the battery ( not a flashlight ) follow the instructions, give it a few days and look everywhere including the ac drain hose. There is a very good (and inexpensive) combustion gas detector you jam onto the radiator fill, the fluid changes color if combustion gases are in the coolant. Before that came along we used the emissions tail pipe tester, stick the probe in the overflow bottle and look for hydrocarbons and CO. Your symptoms are exactly what happened to my last car before it blew up. Old school Bars Leaks The brown stuff, not block seal, is a pretty good Bandaid. DO NOT use something like Blue Devil block repair unless you just want get a few weeks out of the car and don't need heat, these products clog everything permently unless you use them exactly as instructed. The repair products harden in place forever. You can always back flush out too much stop leak. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No problem. Check the area directly under the water pump for dried crusty drips. Pink in color if you are using the toyota coolant. Mine was running down the oil filter. Replaced the water pump and solved the problem
Thanks again Sambojoho

dropped of at toyota dealership this morning for a Monday eval

interesting sidebar here, purposely drove it to dealership one hour away at 60 mph, pulled over twice to check reservoir level, no consumption from Reservoir at all. however during weekday commute I am at higher speeds typically 75 mph and when I checked it at work/home, it is completely empty in the Reservoir, so at elevated Speed I am definitely consuming a lot of coolant

I am using the peak original equipment technologies brand for Asian vehicles, specific to Toyota from 1990 and up, color is pink/red

TYSM
tfhammer
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Thanks again Sambojoho

dropped of at toyota dealership this morning for a Monday eval

interesting sidebar here, purposely drove it to dealership one hour away at 60 mph, pulled over twice to check reservoir level, no consumption from Reservoir at all. however during weekday commute I am at higher speeds typically 75 mph and when I checked it at work/home, it is completely empty in the Reservoir, so at elevated Speed I am definitely consuming a lot of coolant

I am using the peak original equipment technologies brand for Asian vehicles, specific to Toyota from 1990 and up, color is pink/red

TYSM
tfhammer
LET’S GO PLACES!
It could possibly be a intake manifold leak. At higher speeds the pressure is greater. Any white smoke coming out of the tailpipe? I know with a small leak it would be difficult to spot especially going 75mph.
 

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The silver throttle body does have coolant flowing through to keep it from icing inside in damp weather. Many moons ago we saw a Subaru that had a tiny pinhole from the coolant passage into the air flow from corrosion. Unlike a pushrod American engine ours have no coolant in the plastic part. Anyway worth a look,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No problem. Check the area directly under the water pump for dried crusty drips. Pink in color if you are using the toyota coolant. Mine was running down the oil filter. Replaced the water pump and solved the problem
Thanks Sambojoho-

took to toy dealer, radiator leak, $932 quote P&L, went to Walmart, bar's stop leak, $8
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it's not leaking where you can see, ( per the reply below Toyota coolant leaves tracks to the source, very helpful) it's leaking where you can't. Pull the dipstick clear/dirty oil or milkshake? Heater core leaking, windshield suddenly fogging up, or head gasket/cracked head, its going out the tail pipe. In this case the coolant can coat the cats and add P0420/421 insult to injury. Invest in a UV dye kit with a lamp you connect to the battery ( not a flashlight ) follow the instructions, give it a few days and look everywhere including the ac drain hose. There is a very good (and inexpensive) combustion gas detector you jam onto the radiator fill, the fluid changes color if combustion gases are in the coolant. Before that came along we used the emissions tail pipe tester, stick the probe in the overflow bottle and look for hydrocarbons and CO. Your symptoms are exactly what happened to my last car before it blew up. Old school Bars Leaks The brown stuff, not block seal, is a pretty good Bandaid. DO NOT use something like Blue Devil block repair unless you just want get a few weeks out of the car and don't need heat, these products clog everything permently unless you use them exactly as instructed. The repair products harden in place forever. You can always back flush out too much stop leak. HTH
BD-

took to toy dealer, radiator leak, $932 quote P&L, went to Walmart, bar's stop leak, $8
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It could possibly be a intake manifold leak. At higher speeds the pressure is greater. Any white smoke coming out of the tailpipe? I know with a small leak it would be difficult to spot especially going 75mph.
thanks DS-

took to toy dealer, radiator leak, $932 quote P&L, went to Walmart, bar's stop leak, $8
 

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thanks DS-

took to toy dealer, radiator leak, $932 quote P&L, went to Walmart, bar's stop leak, $8
Uh oh! I wouldnt use that stuff man! It does damage to the WHOLE SYSTEM over time! It clogs ports, heater core and the thermostat! Especially on our 3.5L engines that have very fine ports. Sell the car within the next 3 months or get different quotes for a lower price and have it replaced. If you live around Chicago I can point you to a good shop with great prices.

Here... watch this:



READ:


AND.....


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks DS-

yes i did see that video, i watched many on UTube, and the ironic point of his video is that he recommends AGAINST IT - but says HE'S USING IT RIGHT NOW, WHAT????

and my plan all along is to replace the radiator, but i needed something quick that worked for the short term, (cause i was spending $17/gal way too many times over)

then replace the radiator, which has been ordered from BOMMARITO, (already replaced the thermostat 2 weeks ago) and do the Preston flush which i have used before, and the other thing i do 2X year, before summer/winter, drain and fill 1 gallon antifreeze

i am meticulous about maintaining my vehicles, so i'm ok with an extra $34/year, cause i dont piss away $$$ on stupid shit, i am an aggressive consumer/shopper (semi-retired financial planner) and i enjoy plenty of fun stuff with my family and friends

my philosophy has always been i work hard for my money and i make my money work even harder for me!

so if you guys are looking for a great OEM source, i use BOMMARITO Toyota, 9095 Dunn Road, Hazelwood, MO 63042, (314) 731-8270 ext. 5, [email protected]

Reggie is the parts guy and he is AMAZING, patient, helpful - perhaps the BEST parts guy in the business

10% off already included (can't validate this but net prices are good) and free shipping at $75+ use code "FREESHIP"

my OEM radiator is $126, heres their web...
DS - i simply cannot beat ordering and having it come to front door!, in my case, from 300+ miles away - no more running all over flipping town, wasting my time and $$$, then waiting in line, and then its something the dealership has to order anyway!!!... Order, Deliver, Install...

i ordered Saturday, they got it from their central toyota warehouse late Monday, shipped today, and est. delivery is tomorrow (they send tracking # without even asking!!!)

lastly, i might have to walk 20 feet to get this entire thing installed, and i'm more than happy to pay a little more for the convenience... Order, Deliver, Install...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Uh oh! I wouldnt use that stuff man! It does damage to the WHOLE SYSTEM over time! It clogs ports, heater core and the thermostat! Especially on our 3.5L engines that have very fine ports. Sell the car within the next 3 months or get different quotes for a lower price and have it replaced. If you live around Chicago I can point you to a good shop with great prices.

Here... watch this:



READ:


AND.....


DS-

forgot to thank you for offering the good local mechanic, i've got a great local guy too in the Chicagoland area...

also, the product that he shows in the video, IS NOT the same one that i used

after talking with their tech support staff, i used their latest dual action formula, made in the USA, Holly, Michigan, which is activated by driving the car for about 15 min, i did 30...

i didnt want the "heavy duty 2X" this and that, i just needed a short term fix... bars tech support is also very helpful!

AND THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DS-

forgot to thank you for offering the good local mechanic, i've got a great local guy too in the Chicagoland area...

also, the product that he shows in the video, IS NOT the same one that i used

after talking with their tech support staff, i used their latest dual action formula, made in the USA, Holly, Michigan, which is activated by driving the car for about 15 min, i did 30...

i didnt want the "heavy duty 2X" this and that, i just needed a short term fix... bars tech support is also very helpful!

AND THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT!!!
BOMMARITO IS AMAZING

ALL PARTS DELIVERED TODAY AT 11:24 AM!!!
 

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BOMMARITO IS AMAZING

ALL PARTS DELIVERED TODAY AT 11:24 AM!!!
There is a shop in Itasca Illinois right next to the Itasca train station called Hi-Tech. Or High-Tech. Not sure of the spelling. Owners name is Rashid. Short fella with a mustache. His mechanics have been with him for over 15 years. Anyhow his prices are WAAAAAAY better than the rest and he warranties his work. Sadly for US the guy is usally booked.

I PRAY you dont have any clogs with that stuff. After time it clogs things up. Its all similar. It reacts to heat and is a metallic "glue" if you will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There is a shop in Itasca Illinois right next to the Itasca train station called Hi-Tech. Or High-Tech. Not sure of the spelling. Owners name is Rashid. Short fella with a mustache. His mechanics have been with him for over 15 years. Anyhow his prices are WAAAAAAY better than the rest and he warranties his work. Sadly for US the guy is usally booked.

I PRAY you dont have any clogs with that stuff. After time it clogs things up. Its all similar. It reacts to heat and is a metallic "glue" if you will.
Thanks DS - yes i know of the shop, pass by it all the time, its High Tech on irving pk rd

i'll keep him in mind, as my guy charges for actual labor time, not the book rate, my guy would probably charge $125-ish, where toyota dealership is ~$600

FYI, flushing then replacing my radiator system next weekend... and hopefully our D-line can break the other clavicle on rodgers this weekend, Shea McClellin did the first one in 2013!
 

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Had similar issue in our 2005 XL but could see coolant dripping from the bottom of the radiator. Bought a Denso from Rock Auto and used Zerex Toyota coolant (about 2-1/4 gallons). While I was there replaced the upper and lower hoses and thermostat with OEM Toyota. Coolant is definitely still decreasing. Did the UV dye test and have not found any leaks. No milkshake or white smoke at the tailpipe. Ran the combustion gases test and liquids stayed blue. I'm suspecting the water pump. Used the Lisle coolant funnel and ran the engine for 30+ minutes (fans kicked on about 5 times) to make sure all the air bubbles were out. Got the Aisin waterpump in my cart ready to buy, just not looking forward to unbolting the engine mounts to lift the engine for clearance but looks like I have to. For several days the reservoir emptied but now its stable only losing a few ounces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Had similar issue in our 2005 XL but could see coolant dripping from the bottom of the radiator. Bought a Denso from Rock Auto and used Zerex Toyota coolant (about 2-1/4 gallons). While I was there replaced the upper and lower hoses and thermostat with OEM Toyota. Coolant is definitely still decreasing. Did the UV dye test and have not found any leaks. No milkshake or white smoke at the tailpipe. Ran the combustion gases test and liquids stayed blue. I'm suspecting the water pump. Used the Lisle coolant funnel and ran the engine for 30+ minutes (fans kicked on about 5 times) to make sure all the air bubbles were out. Got the Aisin waterpump in my cart ready to buy, just not looking forward to unbolting the engine mounts to lift the engine for clearance but looks like I have to. For several days the reservoir emptied but now its stable only losing a few ounces.
K-01

eerily similar to mine (and for good reason, same 2GRFE), if you saw my earlier post, lost a major amount of coolant at high(er) speeds, and very little at 65MPH, but the diagnosis from toyota was a leaking radiator - so time to change it out

curious - how long have you had the Denso and are you happy with its performance for the time you installed?
 

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K-01

eerily similar to mine (and for good reason, same 2GRFE), if you saw my earlier post, lost a major amount of coolant at high(er) speeds, and very little at 65MPH, but the diagnosis from toyota was a leaking radiator - so time to change it out

curious - how long have you had the Denso and are you happy with its performance for the time you installed?
It was the original radiator that came with the Avalon and we are the original owners. 16 years and 125,000 miles then it started to leak back sometime in July 2021. Had the Denso for 3 months and very happy with it. If not OEM, go with Denso or Koyorad. Both are OEM suppliers to Toyota. I'm very happy with the Denso and those are the only 2 I would go with other than OEM from the dealer. $100 for the Denso are Amazon or Rock Auto vs. $450 from the dealer. It took me about 45 minutes for the whole job.
 
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