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Distributor to coil packs 96 to 97 camry

828 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Cosmofennema
I bought a 96 camry for the engine not knowing it had a distributor instead of coil pack, ive heard you can pull the distributor and just plug the end of the cam, which size plug do i use. Also are there brackets already prefabricated to mount the coil packs. Or should i remove the bracket from the 97 and have it duplicated as im wanting to completely rebuild the 97 so i have a back up motor. Or is the bracket for the camshaft position sensor that im thinking will need a bracket?
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The plug is available from Toyota 90950-01489, about $5 USD. I'm sure we have already confirmed this but if not confirm your ECU numbers match between motors. IMO the quickest and most cost effective path for any necessary brackets would be from a breaker.
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I have done this, in February this year.
You cannot use the '96 head on the '97 motor unless YOU can fabricate a bracket for the cam position sensor. The head for '97 IS different, and the sensor locators are cast-in.
The front cover is also different, as are the pastic timing covers.
I will pull the head from the 97 which i had redone last year. may be able to get a bracket fabricated at work.. thanks for all the input if im using rhe 97 head a cam plug will not be neccessary. The block on the 97 has a knock, considering the 96 did not should i rebuild the 96 block. Suggestions please
A little confused here. For what car are you rebuilding the engine?? The head/front cover/timing covers go with the year, the block/pistons/crank are interchangeable, with the caveat that the piston rings change in '97.
In other words, I had a '99 that was run out of oil. I had a '92 engine that I rebuilt the lower end and used the '99 head (very lucky - Toyota feed the head with oil and it suffered no damage) and front cover.
Further - '92 to '96 engines are interchangeable; '97 to '01 are as well. The block and rotating assembly is the same for all years (save piston rings, they went to low-drag rings in '97). And, as always some minor bolt-on parts are different.
Nearly overlooked - the balance shaft assembly changed gear tooth pitch in '97. I did not reuse.
Im rebuilding the 97, with the 96 block. Using the 97 head that was redone last year. I was just thinking about being able to save and use the 96 head for future use if needed.
Im rebuilding the 97, with the 96 block. Using the 97 head that was redone last year. I was just thinking about being able to save and use the 96 head for future use if needed.
I am not tearing down the 96 block.
So, use the front cover and head for the '97 on the '96 block and you're all good.
You CAN use the valves, lifters and springs, but nothing else from the '96 head.

P.S. T'were it me, I'd re-bearing and re-ring the block and lose the balancer for more oil capacity (you get a quart more). Just because you're nearly there, and the parts are cheap. Plus, you add 300,000 miles to the engine and avoid not noticing that the oil control rings are gummed up and stuck. Which they are.
So i can lose the balancer without a problem? I was actually going to look into redoing the block. Ive never done block work myself. Is this something i should have a shop do or myself.
So if i take the balancer out,How much will it shake? I dont think it got hot when it threw the rod/bearing locked up. Should I have the head resurfaced again?
It will shake a bit more, just like an MR2, which did not have the balancer.
Didn't say you threw a rod. These engine are beyond tough, what did you DO?!?!? And how much noise did it make before it stopped??
I drove the last one into the shop with NO bearing material in number four rod. None. It was still running.
As to if you can do this, well, I cannot answer that, only you can answer that. If you can follow instructions, AND have a shop manual, well, that's how I learned.
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