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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K miles, Texas

I want to DIY
Oil Change
Transmission &
Differential Fluid
Replace Air Intake Hose
Clean MAF Sensor

For oil change

1-what capacity does this car take?
2-I don't want to put the wrong oil, so I saw these 2 oils at Wally world and I am wondering if the synthetic blend is better over the Mobile high mileage?
3-For this mileage is there an oil additive (my friend mentioned Lucas high mileage) that is recommended?




Transmission & Differential

This car has never been done either of this at least since I acquired it 10 years ago at 90k miles. I have heard that changing transmission fluids could cause issues because the gears have become used to, and set themselves, to the metal shavings in there, etc. I don't know what to make of that as I am just getting into DIY maintenance. Is this hogwash?

1-What fluids are recommended, capacity and viscosity?
2-What is the frequency recommended for changing?

Air Intake & MAF Sensor Cleaning


I will replace the Air Intake Hose as it's cracked and the new one is here. While at it I might as well clean the Sensor. Which cleaner is recommended? I saw these at Wally





Belt Dressing


My buddy swears by dressing belts and sprays Preston belt dressing product. Is this recommended or does this negatively impact belts? If so about what frequency?

 

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Oil - any 05w/30 oil you can buy at Walmart will work. As Eric the Car guy says the best oil is clean oil. People have their own favorites brands....its a pointless discussion.

ATF - I use Maxlife ATF, available from Walmart. Usually every 30k miles is good.

MAF sensor - I dont think there is one in the I4.

Youtube is your friend.

Read your owners manual too.....if you have one.
 

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That is correct, the 5SFE does not have a MAF. The 1MZFE does (1994+ V6). The 5SFE has a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure). Learned something new today.


Replacing the intake hose is a straight forward process. Detach all the connectors, note where they go. Detach lower box from the hose (the one that attaches near the throttle body side) and swap.

Oil threads are well..out there. As long as you do your oil at regular intervals and use half decent filter, you'll be fine. 5w30 is what I've used. Synthetic is the way to go if you can get it. I use Maxlife ATF (red jug) in almost everything that calls for Dextron.

Also, you don't need to use belt dressing. If the belt is worn, replace it. That is only (IMO) a temporary solution or a solution to isolate a possible belt issue.



EDIT:

For the oil capacity

1 Litre= 1.05669 Quarts, so it's quite on the spot.

Well, heres a list of amount of oil you put in your Toyota.

Since i work at Toyota as Express lube, might as well share it on ToyotaNation.

remember, this is what i have in my mind, and if its not the same amount as you guys put in, I'm sorry:)

The number you read on the chart are including the amount in the oil filter.
Most Oil Filter contains 0.2 Litre of oil inside.

Corolla
4AFE - 4AGE: 3.4 Litre - 3.6 Litre
7AFE: 3.6 Litre
1ZZFE: 3.9 Litre

Camry
5SFE: 3.6 Litre
3SFE: 3.8 Litre
2AZFE: 3.9 Litre
3VZFE: 4.5 Litre
1MZFE: 5 Litre
3MZFE: 5 Litre

Celica
3SGE: 3.8 Litre
5SFE: 3.6 Litre
3SGTE: 4.2 Litre
1ZZFE: 3.9 Litre
2ZZFE: 4.4 Litre (New GTS)

Matrix
1ZZFE: 3.9 Litre
2ZZFE: 4.4 Litre (XRS)

MR2
4AGE: 3.6 Litre
4AGZE: 3.8 Litre
5SFE: 3.6 Litre
3SGTE: 4.2 Litre

Echo
1NZFE: 3.4 Litre

Tercel
3E-E: 3 Litre
5EFE: 3 Litre

Rav 4
3SFE: 3.8 Litre
1AZFE: 4 Litre

Avalon
1MZFE: 5 Litre

Solara
1MZFE: 5 Litre
3MZFE: 5 Litre

Sienna
1MZFE: 5 Litre
3MZFE: 5 Litre

Previa
???????: 6 Litre + 0.4 Litre in side the small container under the hood. remember to reset the Oil Change Button on the dash.

Cressida
7MGE: 4.5 Litre

Supra
7MGE: 4.5 Litre
7MGTE:4.5 Litre
2JZ: ???? <---never done one yet....

Highlander
2AZFE: 3.9 Litre
1MZFE: 5 Litre

4Runner (V6, V8)
Tundra (V6, V8)
Tocoma (V6, V8)
Sequoia (V8)

These are some im still researching at and will post as soon as i find out.




The oil Filter they use on:
4AFE
3SFE
3SGE
3E-E
5SFE
5EFE
7AFE
1NZFE
1ZZFE
Uses Small Short Oil Filter From Toyota.

on:
3SGTE
2ZZFE
2AZFE
4AGE
4AGZE
Uses Small Long Oil Filters from Toyota

on:
1MZFE
3VZFE
7MGE
7MGTE
(or any other 6 cyl and up)
Uses Large Oil Filter

SO!!!!
any body who uses the Small Short Filter can also use Small Long Oil Filter, for better filtering. Just pump 0.1 Litre more oil in to your engine ;)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ion/24706-amount-oil-you-put-your-toyota.html
 
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1997 Camry LE 2.2 178K miles

1-what capacity does this car take?
Owner's manual

2-I don't want to put the wrong oil, so I saw these 2 oils at Wally world and I am wondering if the synthetic blend is better over the Mobile high mileage?
There is no "wrong" oil. Follow owners manual. At 175K you don't need high mieage unless you're trying to solve a problem.

3-For this mileage is there an oil additive (my friend mentioned Lucas high mileage) that is recommended?
Don't use additves - no need.

Is this hogwash?
Yes. You probably need your trans fluid flushed for new. There are some You Tube vids as well as links here on search if you want to do it yourself - other wise have a shop do it.

1-What fluids are recommended, capacity and viscosity?
Owner's manual

2-What is the frequency recommended for changing?
I do mine every 30k miles, check owner's manual.

Which cleaner is recommended? I saw these at Wally
The one that says "for MAF sensor".

My buddy swears by dressing belts and sprays Preston belt dressing product. Is this recommended or does this negatively impact belts?
No need for dressing unless you're having specific problem. Just tighten to spec so no slip.
 

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http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ntenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

...that being posted, here're my recommendations.

Oil:

I use any available full-synthetic 5W-30 (preference for Mobil1 or Pennzoil if I can get them cheaply. Otherwise, Wallyworld Supertech). Never used thicker (10W-30) oil to stop oil burning...haven't had piston ring problems, and if it's valve stem seals I do 'em. Stay away from snake oil additives. Like Still said, you don't need the high-mileage oil, those just have extra seal conditioners. Use a good filter (I like Denso, Wix, Purolator, and Bosch in that order).

Transmission fluid:

Might as well swap the filter and pan gasket, too. I just used the Wix kit, it comes with a rubber pan gasket and the filter looked exactly like the OEM from what I could see. Trans calls for Dexron III, but I use two Dexron VI-spec fluids: Valvoline MaxLife and O.G. ACDelco Dexron VI. Both are excellent. I'll second Still's 30k drain-and-refill interval.

The detergents in new transmission fluid will loosen up a lot of gunk. Since the fluid hasn't been changed in at least 90k miles, I recommend doing three drain-and-refill sets, and drive around for 10 minutes in between to warm up and get the new fluid flowing each time. It'll come out black, then dark brown, then reddish; this should give you about 90% new fluid throughout the trans.

MAF:

As they stated, there's a MAP, no MAF. More reliable and simpler than a MAF, no cleaning, if it goes bad, replace it.

Belt dressing:

Lame. If your belt is squealing, adjust tension properly and it won't.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ntenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

...that being posted, here're my recommendations.

Oil:

I use any available full-synthetic 5W-30 (preference for Mobil1 or Pennzoil if I can get them cheaply. Otherwise, Wallyworld Supertech). Never used thicker (10W-30) oil to stop oil burning...haven't had piston ring problems, and if it's valve stem seals I do 'em. Stay away from snake oil additives. Like Still said, you don't need the high-mileage oil, those just have extra seal conditioners. Use a good filter (I like Denso, Wix, Purolator, and Bosch in that order).

Transmission fluid:

Might as well swap the filter and pan gasket, too. I just used the Wix kit, it comes with a rubber pan gasket and the filter looked exactly like the OEM from what I could see. Trans calls for Dexron III, but I use two Dexron VI-spec fluids: Valvoline MaxLife and O.G. ACDelco Dexron VI. Both are excellent. I'll second Still's 30k drain-and-refill interval.

The detergents in new transmission fluid will loosen up a lot of gunk. Since the fluid hasn't been changed in at least 90k miles, I recommend doing three drain-and-refill sets, and drive around for 10 minutes in between to warm up and get the new fluid flowing each time. It'll come out black, then dark brown, then reddish; this should give you about 90% new fluid throughout the trans.

MAF:

As they stated, there's a MAP, no MAF. More reliable and simpler than a MAF, no cleaning, if it goes bad, replace it.

Belt dressing:

Lame. If your belt is squealing, adjust tension properly and it won't.
Thanx for that link it's become very handy to me.

From acquisition 90k/8 yrs ago I haven't changed the fuel filter.
1-I am wondering if to take this opportunity to change it as I replace the torn air intake hose?
2-While at this is there anything else I can do around this activity?
3-Car has no MAF but MAP which change if it's bad-got it. Never dealt with MAP, how do I know if it needs changing? So far the car starts and runs great.



EDIT:
4-Changed oil to 5W30 full synthetic couple of weeks ago. After T/Belt work the only thing I have noticed is when I start the car after it's being idle over night or at end of work day it's idling at about 17-1800 rpm and works it way low to 750-800 rpm as it warms up. I don't know if I never noticed that this is how it's always been or I notice because now I am doing self maintenance? My concern is the initial 1700 rpm - is that normal behavior/range?
 

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Thanx for that link it's become very handy to me.

From acquisition 90k/8 yrs ago I haven't changed the fuel filter.
1-I am wondering if to take this opportunity to change it as I replace the torn air intake hose?
2-While at this is there anything else I can do around this activity?
3-Car has no MAF but MAP which change if it's bad-got it. Never dealt with MAP, how do I know if it needs changing? So far the car starts and runs great.



EDIT:
4-Changed oil to 5W30 full synthetic couple of weeks ago. After T/Belt work the only thing I have noticed is when I start the car after it's being idle over night or at end of work day it's idling at about 17-1800 rpm and works it way low to 750-800 rpm as it warms up. I don't know if I never noticed that this is how it's always been or I notice because now I am doing self maintenance? My concern is the initial 1700 rpm - is that normal behavior/range?
1. If you want. In my experience it takes a lot longer on these cars before the fuel filter starts giving trouble (150-200k miles) unless you are pouring dirty gas in or something (all my gas comes from Costco or Shell). If you do, I've used Wix fuel filters, except the last one which got a Beck/Arnley (says Made in China), too early to tell if any problems.

2. Yeah, I did this write-up a few weeks back: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...4-diy-5s-fe-fuel-schrader-valve-retrofit.html
...make it real easy for you to check fuel pressure with a normal, AutoZone gauge instead of some inline dealio.

3. Then you should be fine. Usually the car will run rough, hesitate, and drink gas. It's honestly more rare for the nipple on the sensor to break off due to carelessness than it is for it to malfunction.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1. If you want. In my experience it takes a lot longer on these cars before the fuel filter starts giving trouble (150-200k miles) unless you are pouring dirty gas in or something (all my gas comes from Costco or Shell). If you do, I've used Wix fuel filters, except the last one which got a Beck/Arnley (says Made in China), too early to tell if any problems.

2. Yeah, I did this write-up a few weeks back: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...4-diy-5s-fe-fuel-schrader-valve-retrofit.html
...make it real easy for you to check fuel pressure with a normal, AutoZone gauge instead of some inline dealio.

3. Then you should be fine. Usually the car will run rough, hesitate, and drink gas. It's honestly more rare for the nipple on the sensor to break off due to carelessness than it is for it to malfunction.
Great write up. I will order the parts as listed.

One more thing - on that sticky there's no reference to differential fluid change. I have seen the vid below but I am also looking for a link on what is the correct diff fluid and quantity (I don't have an owners manual; I have an acute TMI overload from searching these details on 3 different makes.)

For the tranny ain't there a summary that states for this model it takes this much fluid? Mostly it's drain, measure quantity, replace with the same. Ok tip if you have kept up with 30k miles changes but I saw some one who barely drained anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
1. If you want. In my experience it takes a lot longer on these cars before the fuel filter starts giving trouble (150-200k miles) unless you are pouring dirty gas in or something (all my gas comes from Costco or Shell). If you do, I've used Wix fuel filters, except the last one which got a Beck/Arnley (says Made in China), too early to tell if any problems.

2. Yeah, I did this write-up a few weeks back: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...4-diy-5s-fe-fuel-schrader-valve-retrofit.html
...make it real easy for you to check fuel pressure with a normal, AutoZone gauge instead of some inline dealio.

3. Then you should be fine. Usually the car will run rough, hesitate, and drink gas. It's honestly more rare for the nipple on the sensor to break off due to carelessness than it is for it to malfunction.
Great write up. I will order the parts as listed.


One more thing - on that sticky there's no reference to differential fluid change. I have seen the vid below but I am also looking for a link on what is the correct diff fluid (I don't have an owners manual; I have an acute TMI overload from searching these details on 3 different makes.)
EDIT:
Found the answers here-> TN Sticky DIY : Differental Fluid Change

 

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re: Differential fluid change:

Official 3rd and 4th Gen Camry DIY and General Information/FAQ Thread

in the sticky section, under Transmission section, 3rd from bottom..

BUT, follow that video / make sure the FILL plug loosens BEFORE removing the drain plug, cleanup everything so tools don't slip & engage well, consider purchasing replacement metal crush washers if any doubt before starting the procedure.

re: Diff. fluid to use - you can use MaxLife ATF, many do, I used Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle ATF -

Official 3rd and 4th Gen Maintenance Thread. All you ever wanted to Know!!!!

in the sticky section, under Transmission Fluid for A/T:
only because the fluid CST is closer to Dex II/III at operating temp. ( purely personal preference ), very pleased w/ how smooth the trans/diff operate with this fluid, and will use again for the 30k trans/diff service this summer.

re: how much tranny fluid on drain & fill - most say 2.6 Quarts will drain, but best to drain into clean pan, and measure amount that comes out, refill to .5 Quart below the amount, then start slowly filling -> up to Cold mark on dipstick.. Start, run up to operating temp., then re-check / top-off as needed.

You can use a clean empty oil jug w/ graduated marks on side, the box stores sell a graduated clear plastic Quart pail in the paint section that is also very handy for this (HD, Lowes).

* You may want to consider also doing the Power Steering flush/replace - that made a huge improvement in the steering rack and PS Pump here when done @ 210,000 miles.


Before doing -any- of these procedures, best to warm up to operating temp., drive, park & let sit for about an hour, so fluids drain back down before starting, warm fluids drain -> carry out any suspended particles best, when servicing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
....
* You may want to consider also doing the Power Steering flush/replace - that made a huge improvement in the steering rack and PS Pump here when done @ 210,000 miles.


Before doing -any- of these procedures, best to warm up to operating temp., drive, park & let sit for about an hour, so fluids drain back down before starting, warm fluids drain -> carry out any suspended particles best, when servicing.
10-4!

Great tips. I found answers to my questions and edited my post but am on tiny screen it kept hanging, never'ld updated. Thanx for the tips tho'.
 

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10-4!

Great tips. I found answers to my questions and edited my post but am on tiny screen it kept hanging, never'ld updated. Thanx for the tips tho'.
I'm experiencing this right now, but only on the General Discussion forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm experiencing this right now, but only on the General Discussion forum.
Seems to recur when I edit a post that has a video, at other times its aok. I might have to get tapatalk "...they pull me back in..." and I ain't a godfather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is correct, the 5SFE does not have a MAF.
Transmission fluid:

Might as well swap the filter and pan gasket, too. I just used the Wix kit, it comes with a rubber pan gasket and the filter looked exactly like the OEM from what I could see. Trans calls for Dexron III, but I use two Dexron VI-spec fluids: Valvoline MaxLife and O.G. ACDelco Dexron VI. Both are excellent. I'll second Still's 30k drain-and-refill interval....
I found one of the cars with a caked on gasket that was a pita to scrape off. Have read many opinions for/against and now I would like to know TN members opinion - is it ok to use a high temp. silicone gasket maker instead of tranny pan gasket?
 

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Toyota didn't use a gasket, so I wouldn't either. They used FIPG. Some swear by the genuine Toyota stuff. I've used Permatex Ultra Black with good results.
 

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I find 43 inch lb for these bolts kinda low. jayinc11 may need to retorque after a few warm up cycles. A gasket would be less messy than RTV, especially if the pan will be dropped for inspection/strainer change more often than dropping the oil pan. Permatex has an ATF resistant RTV. But the Right Stuff and even the Ultra series, such as Ultra Black are advertised as suitable for ATF pans (https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/82180.pdf). Just get a ATP or Wix filter kit, but no telling what type of gasket they happen to put in there.


 

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I find 43 inch lb for these bolts kinda low. jayinc11 may need to retorque after a few warm up cycles. A gasket would be less messy than RTV, especially if the pan will be dropped for inspection/strainer change more often than dropping the oil pan. Permatex has an ATF resistant RTV. But the Right Stuff and even the Ultra series, such as Ultra Black are advertised as suitable for ATF pans (https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/82180.pdf). Just get a ATP or Wix filter kit, but no telling what type of gasket they happen to put in there.


I could've sworn there was an update to the torque setting because just that, 43 was a bit low. Or maybe 43 was the updated setting...in any case, I searched the last year of gen4 and 3ES, and didn't find anything.

I use the Wix kits, they always come with a rubber gasket. Works great!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
43 in-lbs. Make sure you use a rubber gasket, not cork.
I find 43 inch lb for these bolts kinda low. jayinc11 may need to retorque after a few warm up cycles. A gasket would be less messy than RTV, ... Just get a ATP or Wix filter kit, but no telling what type of gasket they happen to put in there.
Please share a link

I could've sworn there was an update to the torque setting because just that, 43 was a bit low. Or maybe 43 was the updated setting...in any case, I searched the last year of gen4 and 3ES, and didn't find anything.

I use the Wix kits, they always come with a rubber gasket. Works great!
Please share a link or is this the one? It does look like a rubber type
http://amzn.to/2nhDinr

Yeah rubber gasket, definitely no cork stuff. I will re-torque after a few warm up cycles.
 
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