[ty**20]

First of all I would like to thank fenixus for making this possible. His advices were very helpful and straight on. Thanks fenixus. Time to replace rear bank air fuel sensor or O2 sensor (non-CA SPEC) and get rid of that ignoring CEL that robs my gas mileage and power. Was gonna just replace it, but I guess I'll make a DIY for the community and future ref.

Tools:
-Pliers
-10mm socket
-Ratchet wrench
-7/8" SAE Open-Close wrench

First of all let engine warm up and cool down. Next remove the entire intake system to get room to access the rear air fuel/ O2 senor harness, which hide behind & under the intake plenum. Cover throttle body and breather hole if necessary.

Standing behind from driver fender lean and reach your right arm under the intake plenum and unclip the Air fuel Sensor harness. Room is tight but is accessible. I got skinny arms and it was easy to get to. Sorry this is a side-way view of the harness.

Slide your 7/8" SAE wrench down the harness to the Sensor (used the closed end of the wrench). I was able to get away without using the special O2 sensor socket. Turn the sensor lose and get that failing sensor out.

Out with the old, in with the new

Assemble everything back in reverse orders. This is a CA SPEC 1MZ-FE therefor, I need the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. Non-CA SPEC 1MZ-FE only need the regular O2 Sensor. Parts# for the CA SPEC Air Fuel Ratio Sensor: Denso 234-9007. No more CEL coming on.

 

[BMR]

Aaaaaand stickied.

Nice job! This one comes up a lot, so it'll be nice to have a DIY with good pics.

Edit: Forgot to mention; I did this one on my Avalon and my Camry going at it from below. But I've got normal-to-skinny forearms and still got scratches that took a week to heal. If you've got Popeye's forearms, fuhgeddaboudit.

 

[ty**20]

Thanks for the stickied. Me too, I looked from below and saw no way I can reach up there without getting scratch. Then a fellow member coughfenxiuscough answered my call. My bro has a gen 1. sienna and I'm already feeling sorry for him when its time for him to change his rear bank air fuel sensor.:lol:

Aaaaaand stickied.

Nice job! This one comes up a lot, so it'll be nice to have a DIY with good pics.

Edit: Forgot to mention; I did this one on my Avalon and my Camry going at it from below. But I've got normal-to-skinny forearms and still got scratches that took a week to heal. If you've got Popeye's forearms, fuhgeddaboudit.

 

[LE05]

Nice DIY!

I managed to do this on my dad's 99 sienna from below... and let me tell you, it's definitely a pain in the ass. I have pretty big arms but didn't get too scratched up. It probably helped that the rear valve cover has been leaking for a while; everything down there was nice and oily.

 

[ty**20]

I managed to do this on my dad's 99 sienna from below... and let me tell you, it's definitely a pain in the ass. I have pretty big arms but didn't get too scratched up. It probably helped that the rear valve cover has been leaking for a while; everything down there was nice and oily.

How long did it took you to replace the rear sensor in his sienna? The oil help lubed your arm as it slide up and down:lol:. I'm glad it can be accessible from a sienna. I'll let my bro know this when his crap out.

 

[LE05]

How long did it took you to replace the rear sensor in his sienna? The oil help lubed your arm as it slide up and down.:lol: I'm glad it is accessible from a sienna.

Probably took about an hour, most of it was trying to unplug the damn sensor than getting it out. Yeah, the oil definitely helped me get a little extra reach... :lol:

 

[Teslacrat]

Bank1 Sensor1... we meet again...

This goes out to all Camry 1MZ-FE V6 owners: please please PLEASE make absolutely certain you have a Denso OEM Air/Fuel sensor, NOT a regular O2 sensor. For one thing, the connectors won't match - which should be caught before you get the thing in there :headbang:

Part Number: 234-9021 $98 on Rockauto

Always keep some PB Blaster on hand. And don't be afraid of it. Just because that stuff doesn't evaporate, doesn't mean be stingy with it. Breaker bars can fit in there, but are not always the answer - they do help, though. If you go at it from underneath, wear eye protection - you'll be right underneath your exhaust line, and you can get oxide particles in your eye. Snake your left arm up between the trannie and the subframe. Lock your tool of choice in place, get a grip on it, brace your foot against the front passenger wheel, and have at it. Just make sure you don't round off the bolt. That's a different problem entirely.

An excellent thing to do, which I now do with my car, is keep a .doc file with all part numbers that your car uses.

 

[BMR]

This goes out to all Camry 1MZ-FE V6 owners: please please PLEASE make absolutely certain you have a Denso OEM Air/Fuel sensor, NOT a regular O2 sensor. For one thing, the connectors won't match - which should be caught before you get the thing in there :headbang:

Part Number: 234-9021 $98 on Rockauto

Not all 1MZ's take A/F sensors. In fact, the '94 V6's all take O2 sensors, even CA cars. Your point is quite good though. It's always best to check Denso's online catalog here to be sure you get what your car needs.

 

[Teslacrat]

Not all 1MZ's take A/F sensors. In fact, the '94 V6's all take O2 sensors, even CA cars. Your point is quite good though. It's always best to check Denso's online catalog here to be sure you get what your car needs.

That's a great site. And I should have clarified above, I have a gen4. But, for the original poster, this is an excellent DIY. And you obviously had less trouble than I did :thumbsup:

 

[b2p1986]

Not all 1MZ's take A/F sensors. In fact, the '94 V6's all take O2 sensors, even CA cars. Your point is quite good though. It's always best to check Denso's online catalog here to be sure you get what your car needs.

I love this dude lol.. No **** haha

Sent from my HTC Ruby using AutoGuide.Com Free App

 

[ty**20]

That's a great site. And I should have clarified above, I have a gen4. But, for the original poster, this is an excellent DIY. And you obviously had less trouble than I did :thumbsup:

All credit goes to fenixus. I was beyond relief doing this from above compared to what I saw from below. It took less then 8 minutes to complete this DIY job (not counting camera time). To be honest, I spent more time taking off the intake system than getting the fuel sensor out and sticking the new in.

I love this dude lol.. No **** haha

Sent from my HTC Ruby using AutoGuide.Com Free App

I love him too.

 

[b2p1986]

All credit goes to fenixus. I was beyond relief doing this from above compared to what I saw from below. It took less then 8 minutes. To be honest, I spent more time taking off the intake system than getting the fuel sensor out and sticking the new in.



I love him too.

234-4209 it up lol

that's the universal part number for the oxygen sensor. splice wire and connect to old harness..bingo!

 

[BMR]

Aww... you guys are makin' me blush! Awkward guy-hug---> :grouphug: :rofl2:

 

[artbuc]

Probably took about an hour, most of it was trying to unplug the damn sensor than getting it out. Yeah, the oil definitely helped me get a little extra reach... :lol:

I have done a lot of major work on my Avalon and RX300 but unbreaking that B1S1 connector was the hardest, PITA thing I ever ran into, bar none!!!

 

[Rowdyrod]

re: sensor swap

You guys are giving out bad advice about removing anything. My mechanic buddy removed and replaced the Bank 1 sensor on my 1MZ Camry in less than 10 minutes flat. He simply jacked the car up a bit right here in my driveway and had it out and the new one in minutes without a struggle. Don't make it harder than it needs to be.:disappoin

 

[Teslacrat]

Good for him. But, if you didn't do it yourself, then how do you know what bad advice is? Because I did exactly what your mechanic buddy did. And you know what? It still seized, because, sometimes, that shit happens.

I would prefer to be criticized constructively by people who have tried (maybe failed, too) to DIY. Anybody can have their mechanic buddy do it for them.

:rant:

 

[Teslacrat]

I would said that is fenixus is a 1mz-wiz and very experienced with this engine and the 4cy. I would not question him. And yes I did this DIY replacement all by myself. Luckily mine was not seized. You can PB blast or torch the surrounding of the sensor to loose the compression on the thread a bit. Better yet, using the O2 socket and ratcheting it with a super long extension works too.

Sorry you thought I posted that to you, ty. I meant it @Rowdy. I couldn't quote him because I was on my phone when I posted that. His "Don't make it harder than it has to be" remark, in particular. Really, I'm glad you had a good experience with this DIY. I'm putting off tackling it again, because I anticipate a very draining experience.

 

[ty**20]

Sorry you thought I posted that to you, ty. I meant it @Rowdy. I couldn't quote him because I was on my phone when I posted that. His "Don't make it harder than it has to be" remark, in particular. Really, I'm glad you had a good experience with this DIY. I'm putting off tackling it again, because I anticipate a very draining experience.

My bad too. I didn't saw Rowdy's post at the bottom of page 1, I just went straight to page 2, read and reply. thought it was for me. Sorry for the wrong post to you.:chug:. You should give this method a shot, it might be the trick to get the sucker out.

You guys are giving out bad advice about removing anything. My mechanic buddy removed and replaced the Bank 1 sensor on my 1MZ Camry in less than 10 minutes flat. He simply jacked the car up a bit right here in my driveway and had it out and the new one in minutes without a struggle. Don't make it harder than it needs to be.:disappoin

X2 with Tesla. This is not bad advice. You can clean TB or air filter while at it if needed. I don't see anything hard with that. At least we know you didn't do it yourself with this sensor replacement:disappoin. I rather work from above than below for this. Not sure how he worked under the car but kudos for him. Btw I did mine less than 8 minutes haha.

 

[artbuc]

You guys are giving out bad advice about removing anything. My mechanic buddy removed and replaced the Bank 1 sensor on my 1MZ Camry in less than 10 minutes flat. He simply jacked the car up a bit right here in my driveway and had it out and the new one in minutes without a struggle. Don't make it harder than it needs to be.:disappoin

Have you ever tried it? I said it was harder than any other job I have done on my Avy and Lexus RX (same engine) and I stand by that. Harder than replacing struts/strut mounts, harder than replacing the rear valve cover gasket, harder than replacing timing belt & water pump, etc. Problem is getting access to the connector and getting enough grip on it with two hands so you can depress the tab and pull it apart at the same time. I tell people to practice on the Bank 2 sensor first to get the hang of it. Anyone who has to come on this site to ask how they know if their B1S1 sensor is bad or what is the correct replacement part or what tools they need, obviously has very little auto repair experience. For that person, disconnecting the B1 sensor will be an extremely difficult job.

 

[ajkalian]

Have you ever tried it? I said it was harder than any other job I have done on my Avy and Lexus RX (same engine) and I stand by that. Harder than replacing struts/strut mounts, harder than replacing the rear valve cover gasket, harder than replacing timing belt & water pump, etc. Problem is getting access to the connector and getting enough grip on it with two hands so you can depress the tab and pull it apart at the same time. I tell people to practice on the Bank 2 sensor first to get the hang of it. Anyone who has to come on this site to ask how they know if their B1S1 sensor is bad or what is the correct replacement part or what tools they need, obviously has very little auto repair experience. For that person, disconnecting the B1 sensor will be an extremely difficult job.

Well, I've done it many times, and you are indeed making it much harder than you need to.

First off, if you are going to replace the sensor, there is no need to fiddle with the connector. Just cut the wires on the sensor side with wire cutters, and then the wires in the loom are easy to get to, and you can remove the connector easily.

I've never jacked up the car, or removed anything. Put a cover on the fender, and get on in there. It helps if you have somebody available to help drag you out of the engine compartment, in case you get a bit too far over center. :lol:

The OP's use of a 7/8" wrench is the best advice. I've altered a box end wrench, and tried the dedicated o2 wrenches, but a regular 7/8" wrench works fine. Here's a pic of what I did. There's a thread on it somewhere on TN, but I can't seem to find it. If you insist on leaving the connector on before you loosen the AFR, the 7/8" wrench will fit over the connector, as show in the pictures. Additionally, with the connector and wires cut from the AFR sensor, then you can use a deep well socket, with a universal to remove the sensor more easily than with a box end wrench.


http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy154/akalian_01/Stuff/o2-sensor.jpg

It's never taken me very long to swap out the Bank 1 AFR sensor. About easy as changing a spark plug, but standing on your head while you do it. Comparing changing the Bank 1 AFR sensor to changing the rear valve cover gasket on a 1MZ-FE is idiotic. The valve cover gasket job is at best a 3-4 hour job, and can run much longer since you have to remove most everything on the top of the engine, the Bank 1 AFR sensor has never taken me more than 20 minutes, start to finish.

.