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2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, while forum member ksteve45 was getting his transmission done, I decided to snap a pic of the drive belt tensioner replacement I also did.

This DIY will apply to all 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, and Pontiac Vibe models with the 1ZZFE engine. It will be very similar for 2ZZGE equipped 2003-2006 Matrix XRS and Pontiac Vibe, 2005-2006 Corolla XRS, and 1998-2002 Corolla and Prizm models.

This DIY was performed without removal of the engine cover and on a vehicle equipped with ABS. I find ABS equipped vehicles are a tiny bit harder to get the drive belt on as there are lines running along your working area.

Disclaimer: Myself or ToyotaNation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of this DIY. All vehicles should be diagnosed and repaired by qualified technicians. Proceed with this DIY at your own risk.

Tools/Supplies needed:

Jack
Jack stands
Block of Wood (I used a 4 x 4)
Torque Wrench (optional)
3/8 Inch Drive or 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet
3/8 Inch Drive or 1/2 Inch Drive Extension (6" or longer will be fine)
3/8 Inch Drive or 1/2 Inch Drive 12mm (optional if not using 12mm wrench) and 14mm Socket
12mm Combination Wrench (optional if not using 12mm socket)
17mm Combination Wrench (ratcheting wrench preferred)
19mm Combination Wrench
Drive Belt Removal Tool (optional and you will still want to the 19mm wrench anyway)

Part Numbers:

Tensioner -

Toyota/GM OEM (This is the latest updated INA type tensioner that replaced 16620-22012/22013 and the OTICS type tensioner) - Toyota: 16620-0W093 or GM: 19190013
AC Delco OEM (This is the same as the above Toyota/GM OEM and is not the same as the AC Delco Professional) -1540399
Gates/AC Delco Professional - 38286
Dayco - 89356
Continental - 49346
Dorman - 419123
Hayden - 5578

Note: Some of the aftermarket tensioners are known to fail. It is best to stay with the OEM Toyota/GM or AC Delco OEM tensioner.

Note: It appears that the Gates, AC Delco Professional, and Continental are the exact same tensioner in a different bag. This is common with other belt drive parts including pulleys and drive belts.

Belt -

Note: It is HIGHLY advisable to NOT go with an OEM Toyota/Bando drive belt. They are known to stretch and squeak in as little as 20K miles.

Note: Goodyear Gatorback belts are now known as Continental Elite.

Gates/Napa Micro-V:

Corolla/Matrix 1ZZFE: K060739 w/AC K060605 w/o AC
Pontiac Vibe 1ZZFE: K060725

Continental Elite:

Corolla/Matrix 1ZZFE: 4060740 w/AC 4060606 w/o AC
Pontiac Vibe 1ZZFE: 4060725

Note: If replacing a tensioner, it is best to do the drive belt at the same time. Not only do you have to remove it anyway, but a cracked or glazed belt can make noise you didn't hear with the old noisy tensioner.

Let's begin!

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut the engine off, secure the parking brake and then secure hood in open position.



Warning: Hot engines can cause burns. You should not attempt this if the vehicle was just driven.

2. Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Jack the car up at the nub of the front K-Member and lower the car into jack stands placed on either the pinch weld or frame rails.



3. Remove the drive belt. Locate the 19mm hex extension/fake nut on the drive belt tensioner. Using your 19mm combination wrench and a second larger wrench for leverage, turn the hex nut clock wise (towards the front of the vehicle) slowly until the tensioner piston is fully compressed. Then while still holding the tensioner in the loose position, remove the drive belt. Set the belt aside.



4. Remove the belt tensioner upper nut and loosen the tensioner mounting bolt. Using your 12mm combination wrench or 12mm socket and ratchet, remove the 12mm nut securing the tensioner hydraulic unit to the cylinder head. Then using your 17mm combination wrench and a 19mm wrench for leverage (2 wrench trick), loosen the 17mm bolt securing the tensioner assembly the the engine block a few threads.

Here is how to perform a 2 wrench trick in case you don't know:


Note: Do not attempt to remove the 17mm bolt all the way. It cannot be removed at this point.



5. Remove the front engine mount bolts. Using your ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket, remove the three bolts securing the front engine mount to the passenger side fender apron.



6. Life the engine. Position your jack underneath the engine oil pan and place your block of wood on the pad. Jack up the oil pan until the engine mount is raised enough to allow clearance for the 17mm belt tensioner bolt.



7. Remove the tensioner. Once you have the clearance, remove the 17mm bolt and maneuver the tensioner out of the vehicle through the top.



8. Install the new tensioner. Maneuver the new tensioner into position and thread the 17mm bolt and 12mm bolt back on. Using your 12mm combination wrench or a torque wrench, tighten the nut. Using your 17mm combination wrench and a 19mm combination wrench for leverage or a torque wrench, tighten the bolt.

Torque spec for the 17mm bolt is 51 lb. ft.
Torque spec for the 12mm nut is 21 lb. ft.



9. Lower the engine down. Slowly release the jack and allow the engine to lower into position. Adjust the mount position until all 3 bolt holes are lined up. Using your ratchet or torque wrench, extension, and 14mm socket, tighten the three bolts securing the mount to the passenger side fender apron.

Torque spec for the 14mm bolts is 38 lb. ft.

Caution: Failure to properly align the bolt holes before installing the engine mount bolts may result in stripping the threaded insert. This insert is welded to the inside of the body and is nearly impossible to access without drilling a large hole in the fender apron. Take extra care to make sure the bolts are straight when installing them.

10. Prepare the new tensioner. Using your 19mm combination wrench and a second larger wrench for leverage, SLOWLY turn the hex nut clockwise (towards the front of the vehicle) until the tensioner piston is fully compressed. Then SLOWLY release pressure until the tensioner is fully extended. Do this 3 times.

11. Install the drive belt. Place the belt into the installation position. I like the install the belt in the following order of pulleys:

1. Alternator
2. Power steering pump
3. Tensioner pulley
4. Crankshaft pulley
5. A/C compressor

Belt Diagram:



Once the belt is on those pulleys, I like to bring the belt over to the water pump pulley snout. Then turn the 19mm belt tensioner hex nut clockwise (towards the driver side of the car) until it stops, compressing the tensioner piston and putting the tensioner in the loose position. With the tensioner still compressed, slip the belt over the water pump and check and make sure it is correctly installed on all other pulleys. If there is an issue with the other pulleys, compress the tensioner again and correct the alignment.

Note: Getting the belt routed from the power steering pump over to the tensioner pulley is the hardest part. I usually use my right arm to get the belt tight around the power steering pump and jam my left arm as far as I can and grab the belt from around the pump pulley. I then pull the belt up and route it over the tensioner pulley and down around the crank.



12. Go for a test drive and verify you have no weird noises or other problems.

Enjoy your work!

Hope this helps someone.
 

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2008 Corolla CE, 4 speed AT
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Hello Hardtopte72,

Thanks for this detailed write up!!!
My tensioner (original one, 120K) was leaking and the black boot of the hydraulic side broken with lot of noise when push gas pedal. I only replaced the tensioner because the belt was installed just 2K ago. I installed the continental 49346 tensioner, basically perfect fit and identical to OEM. 1.5 hours was enough to complete the job including final road test. Hope continental tensioner last at least another 120K.

Regards,

David
 

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2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Is the sound you hear from the tensioner a gurgling sound when the the car is in gear and accelerating? I've got 211K on this car and I don't know when the tensioner was ever replaced ( I bought with 175K on odo).
 

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Is the sound you hear from the tensioner a gurgling sound when the the car is in gear and accelerating? I've got 211K on this car and I don't know when the tensioner was ever replaced ( I bought with 175K on odo).

Hi 3puttjay,

Can you upload a recording of the sound you hear? And post on the main board, you'll get more responses that way.

Hope this helps,

Frank
 

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2012 Camry+2014 Sienna+2007 Corolla+2014 Corolla
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A month ago I took my wife's 07 Corolla to the dealer to have the airbag recall done, the mechanic said it's time to change the belt and tensioner as it's over due at 130k miles. I agree because the bearings are worn and it's noisy, what I disagree is they want $500 out the door to do the job. Anyway I got the parts from RockAuto ($90) and this thread to help out, thanks for all the detailed instructions and lots of photos. If all goes well it'll save me $400.
 

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Sheared off the top bolt for the Belt Tensioner

This guide is great and easy to follow thank you. I did however shear the bolt that the 12 mm nut attaches to (I crudely circled it in blue). Has anyone ever ran into this problem and if so how do I fix it? I was surprised it happened I didn't think I was pulling that hard. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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I did however shear the bolt that the 12 mm nut attaches to (I crudely circled it in blue). Has anyone ever ran into this problem and if so how do I fix it? I was surprised it happened I didn't think I was pulling that hard. Any help would be much appreciated.

That's a very tight space, not sure how you can get a drill in there and then use an extractor.


Normally before I do any kind of work on old rusted bolts & nuts is to spray liquid wrench on it and allow to soak overnight, and if it's rust badly I use wire brush to remove it first then let it soak in penetrating oil. Be patient and you'll save the next hours or days manually remove a broken fastener.


I plan to do the belt & tensioner replacement this Sunday, so on Saturday I'll remove the belt then spray the oil on both the 12mm & 17mm bolts. By Sunday noon it should be ready.
 

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Having hard time removing the 17mm bolt, already sprayed with liquid wrench to loosen up, don't want to over torque and break the head off.
 

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excellent write-up! when does this "need" to be done? car's got just about 200k now, I don't know if it has ever been done or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
excellent write-up! when does this "need" to be done? car's got just about 200k now, I don't know if it has ever been done or not.
Tensioners are replaced when they fail (i.e: rattle, leaks, unresolved squealing after replacing belt). If you have no symptoms, leave it alone. It's also possible it has already been replaced. If a belt is bad, replace only the belt first.
 

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How do you tell if the tensioner is leaking? My belt has glazed on the top side. The inside of the belt lines are totally fine. Repair manual recommends replacing belt if it is glazed. There is all this black stuff around all the pulleys. Mostly around the alternator, water pump and tensioner pulley. There was some build up of this between the tensioner pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Replaced the belt today (had almost 70k on it). Got a gatorback for $14 on ebay. Checked the pulleys and the only one with any give was the tensioner pulley. It doesn't move outward horizontally but it moves a bit up and down.

Saw a drive belt replacement tutorial and guy claims if the belt is glazing then there is something wrong with the the tensioner pulley. Is this true?

Should I replace the tensioner? My 05 with 157k currently has the original hydraulic tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How do you tell if the tensioner is leaking? My belt has glazed on the top side. The inside of the belt lines are totally fine. Repair manual recommends replacing belt if it is glazed. There is all this black stuff around all the pulleys. Mostly around the alternator, water pump and tensioner pulley. There was some build up of this between the tensioner pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Replaced the belt today (had almost 70k on it). Got a gatorback for $14 on ebay. Checked the pulleys and the only one with any give was the tensioner pulley. It doesn't move outward horizontally but it moves a bit up and down.

Saw a drive belt replacement tutorial and guy claims if the belt is glazing then there is something wrong with the the tensioner pulley. Is this true?

Should I replace the tensioner? My 05 with 157k currently has the original hydraulic tensioner.
You will usually see an oily buildup on the hydraulic portion of the tensioner. In the DIY, the tensioner I replaced was covered in the oil from a leak which you can see in the pics.

It sounds like your tensioner is definitely bad.
 

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different belt for vibe

just did my 06' vibe and the listed cont/goodyear belt w/ac is not correct. had to go to the parts store and get a gates 060725. so not sure why the cont 4060740 didn't work,but it was to loose. the listed gates 060739 doesn't even come up when you go to the gates parts lookup under the vibe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just did my 06' vibe and the listed cont/goodyear belt w/ac is not correct. had to go to the parts store and get a gates 060725. so not sure why the cont 4060740 didn't work,but it was to loose. the listed gates 060739 doesn't even come up when you go to the gates parts lookup under the vibe.
Those are Corolla/Matrix only numbers. The Vibe has a different AC compressor and therefore different belt.

I will update the DIY to reflect the change. The Vibe part numbers are listed in the Maintenance Sticky below:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...a-matrix-pontiac-vibe-maintenance-thread.html
 

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Tensioner installation question

Did replace the tensioner with oem and gatorbelt (continental) that was 6 weeks ago.


Did about 5K on high road and alternator suddenly started to give intermittent battery light warning when driving 100kph on highway.


When exiting to city at 50kph battery light went off.


There is no green deposit on both battery posts.


Wondering if the tensioner installation was not performed correctly causing the alternator to not do his job.
I checked the belt tension and pressed on it to about ½ inch.


Is the belt loose?
Is the IC regulator on the alternator suddenly going bad having nothing to do with TB installation?


I find it weird that not long after replacing tensioner/belt, alternator develops problems...
 

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I would remove the belt again and check all your pulleys, in particular, the alternator pulley to see if moves freely. Then I would check your battery voltage when your car is idling to see if the alternator is charging your battery/ (sitting around 13.8 - 14~ volts) If that is working accordingly, then recheck the tension on your belt. Move the belt side to side with your finger and thumb. You should feel some resistance.
 

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I would remove the belt again and check all your pulleys, in particular, the alternator pulley to see if moves freely. Then I would check your battery voltage when your car is idling to see if the alternator is charging your battery/ (sitting around 13.8 - 14~ volts) If that is working accordingly, then recheck the tension on your belt. Move the belt side to side with your finger and thumb. You should feel some resistance.


Thanks Mathue for your imput.


To make a long story shorter, I kept the replacement alternator on (bought on eBay) who is not the same part number as the original one but has been running really fine since the replacement.


Decided to not go forward with the rebuilt of the old one for the time being...


I still have the dim battery led wich is more evident at night in my instrument cluster. But to me it is more a matter of making ends meet on my monthly budget $.


Drove about 8,000 kilometers since it's replacement and never had a single problem with the charging system + battery since the new one.


Case close for now for this event.


Thank you all : )
bubbah16
 
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