Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
Joined
·
14,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After much waiting here is the DIY flush procedure for the A750E transmission of the RWD Toyota trucks without a dipstick. This transmission is very similar across most RWD trucks from around 2005-2010. This procedure applies directly to the 2005-2007 Sequoia and 2005-2006 Tundra with or without tow package. This transmission calls for WS fluid so you can use any WS compatible fluids. This procedure will be similar for all 2005+ 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, and Tacoma, or any other Toyota truck with a similar setup. Most of this procedure is identical to older trucks with the A340E, except you fill through the dipstick tube and measure via the dipstick. The radiator and coolers are placed identically in the older trucks.

Note: The only difference between trucks equipped with the tow package is which hose you pull. Non tow package trucks simply use the hose from the radiator.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.


Tools and Parts needed:

Note: You will need to use at least one of the optional methods to check fluid temp. This means either the Techstream or thermomemter.

1/2 drive 15/16 or 24mm socket
1/2 drive ratchet
3/8 drive 12mm socket
3/8 drive 14mm socket
3/8 drive 5mm hex socket
3/8 drive ratchet
Needle nose pliers or angle nose pliers
Hose pliers or a very small pocket flat head screwdriver
Drain pan
1-2 Feet of 7/16" ID Rubber ATF Cooler Hose Section
1-2 Foot Section of 1/2" ID Clear Vinyl Tubing
3-4 Foot Section of 1/2" ID Clear Vinyl Tubing
Measuring container or jug to measure roughly 1 quart of fluid (I used the graduation lines of a 5 quart Mobil 1 jug)
16 quarts of ATF
Jack
Truck Height Jack Stands
Drill Pump or Hand Pump
Brake parts cleaner
Toyota Techsteam (Option 1 for fluid check)
Paperclip or Jumper Wire (Option 2 for fluid check)
Non Contact IR thermometer that can read at least 150 degrees Farenheit (Option 3 for fluid check)
Gloves
New fill plug and inspection plug gasket (if necessary)
Rags or towels
Block of Wood (2x6)



Note: I used a drill pump for this job. This little pump is worth its weight in gold and made this job go much smoother and easier.

Note: If using a drill pump, make sure your drill is charged. My cordless drill died so I used a corded drill which was muich better overall.

For a list of compatible ATF, see the Maintenance Sticky below:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/86-sequoia-forum/1164409-official-ultimate-2001-2015-sequoia-maintenance-thread.html

Drill pump: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1314-DrillPump750-Priming-Transfer/dp/B00F1ZJG5E?th=1[/ame]

Pump Tubing: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Watts-SVKI20-Pre-Cut-Diameter-20-Foot/dp/B0046ECL80/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542702936&sr=1-1&keywords=watts+svki20[/ame]



Warning: Hot engines and exhaust can cause burns.

Note: Having a helper here is HIGHLY recommended but not completely required.

Let's begin!

1. Briefly drive the truck around the block one time to warm up the fluid then park on a level surface, place the selector in park, and set the parking brake. Shut the engine off and open the hood.



2. Jack up the truck up and secure it on jack stands. Using your jack and block of wood, jack up the truck across the front crossmember. Lower the car onto jack stands on the reinforced section of the frame rails.



3. Remove the metal splash guard. Using your ratchet and 12mm socket, remove the 5 screws securing the splash guard and set it aside.



4. Check to make sure your fill and inspection plugs can be loosened. Using your ratchet and 24mm or 15/16" socket, remove the transmission fill plug. Reinstall the fill plug finger tight. Using your ratchet and 5mm hex socket, remove the inspection plug. Reinstall the plug finger tight.



Caution: Do not drain any fluids if your fill plugs and inspection plugs cannot be removed. Failure to do so may result in your inability to check the fluid level or add any fluid.

5. Remove the transmission return hose from the radiator or transmission cooler outlet.

5a. On models with tow package, locate the cooler hose which goes from the front mounted transmission cooler line to the transmission return line. This hose is located on the passenger side, slightly above the cooler hose which goes from the radiator to the front mounted transmission cooler.



Note: The cooler return hose clamp ears are over the top of the hose. I positioned my pliers over the top to depress the ears and position them on the bottom of the hose for easier access.

5b. On models without tow package, locate the cooler hose which goes from the radiator to the transmission return line. This hose is located on the passenger side of the radiator, directly next to the lower radiator hose.



To remove the hoses, using your needle nose pliers depress the ears of the hose clamp and slide the clamp down the hose (angled needle nose are priceless here). Using your hose pliers or very small pocket screwdriver break the hose and line seal and slide the hose off of the line.



Note: It is a good idea to have your drain pan and container in position here to avoid spilling fluid on the ground.

6. Drain the transmission pan. Set your drain pan in place and using your ratchet and 14mm socket, loosen and remove the transmission drain plug. If this is your first time doing this you can reuse the drain plug gasket, if not it is advisable to replace the gasket. My transmission drained 3 quarts of fluid. When draining is complete be sure to reinstall the drain plug with gasket. You will not need to touch this again for the remainder of this job.



Note: Torque spec for the drain plug is 15 lb ft.

7. Assemble your hand pump or drill pump. Attach the hoses 3-4 foot section of hose to the outlet side of the pump and the attach the 2-3 foot section into the inlet side of the pump. Place the inlet hose into a jug of new ATF.



8. Fill the transmission with 1 quart of fluid more than was removed during the drain (the transmission will be overfilled by 1 quart). Remove the transmission fill plug and insert the outlet side of your 1/2" vinyl hose and fill the transmission (mine took 4 quarts; 3 quarts drain + 1 quart over). Reinstall the fill plug finger tight only since it will be coming off several more times.



9. Pump out 2 quarts of fluid. Attach your section of 7/16" hose to the transmission cooler return line or radiator return outlet. After ensuring the hose/tubing is well inside your suitable drain container start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a bit less than 2 quarts of fluid. When it is about there shut off the engine. You will notice that after you shut off the engine, a small amount of fluid will drain out. This is where a helper is valuable.



Note: The transmission pumps fluid at a relatively easy rate. You are not in danger of pumping out all of your fluid unless you are not paying attention.

Warning: Hot transmission fluid can cause burns or injury. Take proper precautions when dealing with hot fluids.

10. Fill the transmission with 2 quarts of fluid (the transmission will be overfilled by 1 quart). Remove the transmission fill plug and insert the outlet side of your 1/2" vinyl hose and fill the transmission. Reinstall the fill plug finger tight only since it will be coming off several more times.



11. Repeat steps 9-10 around 3-4 more times. You will notice by quart 14, the fluid will look brand new. The 15-16th quart are there to top off if you were a little off after the warm up.

12. Reinstall the transmission return hose onto the radiator or transmission cooler return line. Remove the 7/16" ID hose section from the radiator or cooler line return outlet and slide the return hose onto the return outlet. Using your needle nose pliers reinstall the hose clamp in its original position.



13. Check the fluid level. Level the truck by jacking up the rear of the vehicle until it's level.

13a. If using a Techstream observe the fluid temp in the data list:



Note: I inspected my flow rate when the fluid was between 104-113 degrees Farenheit/40-45 Degrees Celcius.

13b. If using the paperclip or jumper wire, place the transmission in inspection mode:

1. Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 (OBD2 connector under steering column) using a small paper clip or jumper wire to jump PIN 4 and 13 together. Keep note of the orientation of the 16 pin DLC3 connector when jumping the terminals.



2. Move the shift lever back and forth between the NEUTRAL and DRIVE positions at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds.

3. The AT Oil Temp indicator on the combination meter comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid temperature is within the appropriate temperature range. Remove the paper clip or wire,

4. The AT Oil Temp indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches operating temperature and will blink when it exceeds operating temperature.

5. After confirming the AT Oil Temp indicator turns off, move the shift lever to the P position and remove the paperclip or jumper wire from terminals CG and TC.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/B]

Cycle the truck through the gears with the brake depressed a few times. Remove the inspection plug from the transmission pan. Observe if fluid comes out or not. If no fluid comes out, remove the fill plug and add fluid until you get a steady small stream/trickle of fluid draining (I had to add around another 1/2 quart). Light dripping or heavy flow is a sign of an underfilled or overfilled transmission. When the desired flow rate is reached reinstall the fill and inspection plugs.



13c. If you using an IR thermometer, point the beam directly at the fluid as it exits the overflow point.



Note: Most cheap IR thermometers are inaccurate to some degree. Keep this in mind if you choose this method.

Note: Overflow and thermometer picture is from my Camry DIY. Idea and flow rate is the same.

Note: Torque spec for the fill plug is 29 lb ft.

Note: Torque spec for the inspection plug is 15 lb ft.

14. Reinstall the lower splash guard. First using your brake parts cleaner liberally spray and clean the transmission fluid from under the trcuk. Position the splash guard into place and reinstall the five 12mm bolts.

14. Lower the vehicle off of jack stands.

15. Go for a good long test drive of at least 15 minutes and try to get the vehicle up at highway speed and verify shift quality.

Admire your work and money you saved!

I did this entire flush for around $75. Your cost may be slightly higher depending on fluid cost. The going rate where I live is $209.95 and who knows what fluid is used.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Thank you for taking the time to do such an in-depth write up with good pictures and everything. I have tried to do this before and realize how much time it adds to the process to stop and take pictures of each step.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have 02 with 140k and was wondering if dropping the pan would be enough or will the full flush be needed? it was just purchased so i have no idea when the last one was done. Ive heard there could be issues with slippage iof doing a full flush, any opinions?
 

·
Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
Joined
·
14,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I flush them all this way.

The "fluid change caused issues" is a decades old car myth.

Transmission fluid literally drives, cools, and lubricates the transmission. If the fluid needs changing, especially while you already have issues, change it.

You wouldn't leave motor oil that's never been changed in your engine would you? If not, the argument for ATF maintenance is the same.

Cooler line flush is an excellent method which doesn't use harsh "flush" chemicals or high/low pressure machine pumps which cause issues with the transmission pump.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top