Toyota Nation Forum banner

Was this helpful to anyone?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 80.0%
  • No

    Votes: 1 6.7%
  • Maybe

    Votes: 2 13.3%
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought an Old Town Predator K 140 fishing/duck hunting kayak and needed a way to get it around in my DC short Bed. I don't have the cash for a nice roof rack or better yet, a bed rack, so I came up with this for around $55. I had some materials on hand (pool noodle, zip ties, PVC cleaner and glue), but I also had some leftover PVC when I was done. I figured that I definitely didn't want my 14' kayak hang out the back of my short bed so I came up with this. It held me on the rack (I'm 6'8", 250lbs) when I was testing the strength so it is actually durable, although maybe not so pretty....I'm going for function here! These plans are not to be sold and are considered to be my property to be freely distributed (aka I don't want to see them being sold on Ebay as a PDF, lol) and do this build at your own risk, I assume no resposibility for your actions/loss. Now that we got all of that out of the way....here we go.



Step 1: Cut (4) pieces of PVC
Step 2: Cut (4) pieces of PVC Step 3: Cut cross member pieces (the "X" section that braces the frames) came out to be 67-1/4 inches for the one that goes from the bottom of the tailgate to the top of the cab, while the other one (from the bottom of the cab to the top of the tailgate) measures 68 inches....this might have something to do with the angles, but my rack is level.

Step 4: End pieces that extend out that the end caps are attached to were cut (4) at 6 inches I think. Edit: This allows for the rack to lay in the bed when not is use, like so.....


Step 5: Put all the pieces together like I have them in the pics. Remember that you must put the pieces together to accomidate for the "X" section so the tailgate frame "top horizontal section" will be the same as the "bottom cab horizontal section"....for the tailgate bottom piece that has the rope run through it here, I just cut PVC until it fit evenly into the rear "T" fitting on both sides of the bed as shown below.


Step 6: Use a straight edge and a marker and after you have the rack dry fitted the way that you want it, mark a small straight line across the fittings and the pvc, so that when you glue the pieces, you know that you are getting it exactly in the right place
Step 7: Drill holes (4) for the "X" member sections that fit into the "T" fittings and insert the bolts, washers and wingnuts. At this point you are almost done...assuming that everything looks good, drill a hole through the center of the "X" made by the 2 pieces of PVC and insert the 6 inch bolt, washer and wingnut through there...this adds a lot of stability.


Connected

In the rear, I just ran rope inside the tube and tightened it down to the D rings....this is a simple idea but it is rock solid and quick to undo when I want to take down the rack.
 

·
n00b
Joined
·
2,104 Posts
whatever works man. looks cool :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Good work. I just might have to do that once I get the $$$ for a kayak, though I'd have to modify it for the long bed. Is it stable from side to side with only one cross member?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Good work. I just might have to do that once I get the $$$ for a kayak, though I'd have to modify it for the long bed. Is it stable from side to side with only one cross member?
Thanks for the comments guys; it is very solid all around. Like I mentioned before, when I go over RR tracks it might "vibrate" side to side a centemeter at best due to the plyability of PVC, but it has no effect on the functionality/safey of the rack whatsoever. My kayak is a beast weighing in at 68 lbs and the weight really keeps everything in place. The bolts in the front, along with the way that I have the rack sandwiched into the bed on the sides and tied in the back keep this thing from moving at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Working great!

Mine came out pretty well. Needed some different specs for a 97 standard bed Tacoma with a bedliner. More images at http://flickr.com/photos/wolfriver I inserted horizontal bars from my old Thule car rack into the horizontals on this one to correct a slight sag that was caused by either the greater weight of my Old Town Discovery 164 or because I made the diagonal struts a bit too short. Looking forward to your e-book!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
If you want to see the original PVC rack with pics and instructions, it can be found here http://sckayakfishing.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=1033 - make sure you go to the 2nd page as well as it shows the final product with 4 uprights on each piece. Since then, I designed a better metal rack and it is about the same price as the PVC one when it is all said and done. It can be very slightly modified to fit a Tacoma assuming you have a receiver hitch. It can be seen here http://www.examiner.com/x-45775-Col...~y2010m5d20-Build-a-kayak-rack-for-your-truck and in a little more detail on my site here http://palmettokayakfishing.com/ under "Free DIY Plans" Hope this helps...I got rid of the Tacoma, but am always willing to help out the Toyota guys if I can. - Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
If you want to see the original PVC rack with pics and instructions, it can be found here http://sckayakfishing.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=1033 - make sure you go to the 2nd page as well as it shows the final product with 4 uprights on each piece. Since then, I designed a better metal rack and it is about the same price as the PVC one when it is all said and done. It can be very slightly modified to fit a Tacoma assuming you have a receiver hitch. It can be seen here http://www.examiner.com/x-45775-Col...~y2010m5d20-Build-a-kayak-rack-for-your-truck and in a little more detail on my site here http://palmettokayakfishing.com/ under "Free DIY Plans" Hope this helps...I got rid of the Tacoma, but am always willing to help out the Toyota guys if I can. - Paul
Believe it or not, I actually found that sckayakfishing page a later on yesterday. I didn't know that was yours I was looking at. I see you're in West Columbia, I'm in Lexington. I'm actually getting ready to take a fishing trip down the Lynches River with a buddy of mine from work and was looking for an easy way to haul the kayaks/canoes. Only problem is I'm leaving on Monday and just don't know if I'll have time to build this by then. How bad would it be just to strap these things in using ratchets ties in the bed of my truck? I know it will hang off a little, but I'm not going really far.

Anyway, thanks for the links. I really appreciate it. I'm deffinately going to try to build the racks eventually. Even sweeter you're a fellow sandlapper.

Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It depends. What model truck are you driving (short bed, long bed etc) and how long is your canoe and kayak? Do you have a receiver hitch?

If you have a receiver hitch, I would recommend buying one of the "truck bed extenders" (local store part # is 45830) from Harbor Freight on St. Andrews Rd and using it as directed to just extend your bed a little and give more support to your yak & canoe.



I called HF and they have 12 in stock @ $29.99 a piece. Print this coupon http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/SingleMagLanders/americanprofile/images/20_c.jpg and you will pay around $25 out the door. Then later if you get around to making the rack I wrote about, you will already have one of the parts you need.

Be careful with the ratchet straps as they have a tendency to be overtightened when using them to strap in kayaks/canoes and can cause oil canning of the hull. I recommend rope or lashing straps like these http://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-2-1-inch-x-12-ft-lashing-straps-67386.html HF's straps aren't the greatest quality like ones designed for canoes/kayaks, but they'll get the job done for this weekend for sure. Good luck this weekend and enjoy your trip!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
It depends. What model truck are you driving (short bed, long bed etc) and how long is your canoe and kayak? Do you have a receiver hitch?

If you have a receiver hitch, I would recommend buying one of the "truck bed extenders" (local store part # is 45830) from Harbor Freight on St. Andrews Rd and using it as directed to just extend your bed a little and give more support to your yak & canoe.



I called HF and they have 12 in stock @ $29.99 a piece. Print this coupon http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/SingleMagLanders/americanprofile/images/20_c.jpg and you will pay around $25 out the door. Then later if you get around to making the rack I wrote about, you will already have one of the parts you need.

Be careful with the ratchet straps as they have a tendency to be overtightened when using them to strap in kayaks/canoes and can cause oil canning of the hull. I recommend rope or lashing straps like these http://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-2-1-inch-x-12-ft-lashing-straps-67386.html HF's straps aren't the greatest quality like ones designed for canoes/kayaks, but they'll get the job done for this weekend for sure. Good luck this weekend and enjoy your trip!
Thanks man, I appreciate it. I didn't know they were that cheap. All the one's I saw online were like $89 and up. I'll deffinately do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
For some reason, Harbor Freight doesn't have the extenders on their website right now, that is why I called to verify they still have them. Take that part number (#45830) with you when you go and it'll make things a lot easier as they have them stored in the back.

They fit a standard class III and up receiver hitch...2 inches. If you don't have a receiver hitch, you or anyone else can buy this http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-step-bumper-receiver-67158.html for $15.99 and bolt it under your bumper to make it work. Print 2 of those 20% off coupons, pay for each item separately (i.e. walk out and come back in) and you will be out less than $40:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
This is great. I had been thinking of constructing something like this to carry my 100 lb Grumman canoe. I was thinking of using metal conduit but this may work ok. I would probably add cables in an X pattern inside each square for lateral strength.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For some reason, Harbor Freight doesn't have the extenders on their website right now, that is why I called to verify they still have them. Take that part number (#45830) with you when you go and it'll make things a lot easier as they have them stored in the back.

They fit a standard class III and up receiver hitch...2 inches. If you don't have a receiver hitch, you or anyone else can buy this http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-step-bumper-receiver-67158.html for $15.99 and bolt it under your bumper to make it work. Print 2 of those 20% off coupons, pay for each item separately (i.e. walk out and come back in) and you will be out less than $40:thumbsup:
thanks Paul. You're been a tremendous help. I'll be heading out there after work today or tomorrow.

thanks,
Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For some reason, Harbor Freight doesn't have the extenders on their website right now, that is why I called to verify they still have them. Take that part number (#45830) with you when you go and it'll make things a lot easier as they have them stored in the back.

They fit a standard class III and up receiver hitch...2 inches. If you don't have a receiver hitch, you or anyone else can buy this http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-step-bumper-receiver-67158.html for $15.99 and bolt it under your bumper to make it work. Print 2 of those 20% off coupons, pay for each item separately (i.e. walk out and come back in) and you will be out less than $40:thumbsup:
Oh sorry I didn't answer your question about my truck. I have a short bed Tacoma like yours. Below is a pic.


Thanks,
Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
Need some advice. My canoe is a 17 foot aluminum Grumman, It weighs about 100 lbs. Here is a representation of what my rig would look like if I constructed the above PVC carrier. Does this look stable?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
nice job..i am aall for function and frugality..nice ingenuity..makes one think af all we cando with our trucks..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
Here is my finished canoe carrier

I went back to the drawing board and considered many ideas, finally settling on this unit made of PVC (already had the foam blocks). It costs about $10 to build and worked flawlessly on our recent week long camping trip.

The advantages to this unit is that it takes no room in the bed, is strong enough to hold my old, heavy canoe and is cheap and easy to build. Also, the tailgate is still usable. It's stable on the road. I got up to 70 mph and had no problems.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
fisherypoo

Tallpaul,
Sorry I don't quite know wot I'm doing in using this forum. Process seems exremely elow loading & tedious, but that may be my fault.

I can't figure out your instructions for the rack without pix. for that matter not sure if you'll ever see this note.

Not sure either if I can find my way back here to check for replies from you, but in case I do is there any way we can email back & forth?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
dl1027, I can see by your pix that the rear goal posts rest on bed cleats in the rail channels, but can't figure out what holds it in place there.
Hard to imagine that it holds the canoe's weight without sagging. Is there a metal bar within?
Did you try that at both ends of the bed? I'm trying to work it out with a 6' Tacoma bed.
Caution: I'm not sure how to use the reply function here and have no idea if you'll even see this messge, much less reply to it. Is there any way we can communicate by direct email?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top