[aid03]

Note: I am not responsible to anything that happens to you or your vehicle. Always follow proper safety precautions.

The car is a '14 Camry SE 4cyl.

I installed H&R springs and decided to replace the brake pads and lines while I was at it. I didn't install new rotors but I took them out really quick so I could add it to this write up, although, I don't have a pic of the front rotor removed. Hopefully I got this detailed enough for the new guys just starting to work on their own car. If you see anything missing or incorrect let me know so I could revise it. If there are bolts or nuts that are loose that I didn't specify to take off or loosen it's because I was doing the suspension as well so don't panic.

Hopefully this write-up could help you in the future.:x

A. BRAKE PADS
B. ROTOR/DISC CHANGE
C. SS BRAKE LINE INSTALL
D. BRAKE BLEEDING
BONUS: How to replace Wheel Lug in case you break it or just want to install longer lugs for wheel spacers.

A. BRAKE PAD CHANGE

A.1. REAR BRAKE PADS

A.1.1. Remove wheels.


A.1.2. Remove Caliper Bolts(14mmbolt) (14mm nut). If caliper won’t come off, release foot parking brake(may not be necessary). If bolts start moving use a wrench on the nut (14mm). (Note: If Changing Brake Lines, check Step: C.1.2 first)


A.1.3. Secure the caliper so brake line is not being stressed.

A.1.4. Remove old pads, retainers, and clean all brake components with brake parts cleaner. Use flathead screwdriver and pliers if needed to pry them off. (sorry no pic)

A.1.5. Install necessary retainer clips and shims. The pads that I bought had 2 different size retainers so double check before you go crazy and say it doesn’t fit.



A.1.6. Install new pads. Put a dab on the back of the pads and retainers and spread with fingers. Just need a thin layer.


A.1.7. Push the piston on the caliper so it would clear the pads when you install it back. I used a C-clamp on this. There are brake specific tools you could use as well

A.1.7. Supplement.

Whenever possible, avoid pressing on the piston in that manner. Use one of the old pads instead to push in the piston.

For pushing out wheel studs, a air hammer pushes them out like butter.

A.1.8. Install Caliper back.

A.1.9. Reinstall everything back in reverse. (Important: Make sure you pump brakes before driving off)

A.1.10. Follow proper brake pad bedding procedure.
Tire Rack Info - Different Mfrs
EBC Procedure


A.2. FRONT BRAKE PADS

A.2.1. Remove wheels.

A.2.2. Remove Caliper Bolts(14mmbolt) (17mm nut). If bolts start moving use a wrench on the nut. (Note: If Changing Brake Lines, check Step: C.2.2 first)


A.2.3. Secure the caliper so brake line is not being stressed.


A.2.4. Remove old pads, retainers, and clean all brake components with brake parts cleaner. Use flathead screwdriver and pliers if needed to pry them off. (sorry no pic)

A.2.5. Install necessary retainer clips and shims.


A.2.6. Install new pads. Put a dab on the back of the pads and retainers and spread with fingers. Just need a thin layer. (tip: push on this tab with plier or screwdriver while installing new pads. It will make it easier to install new pads)


A.2.7. Push the piston on the caliper so it would clear the pads when you install it back. I used a C-clamp on this. There are brake specific tools you could use as well.

A.2.7. Supplement.

Whenever possible, avoid pressing on the piston in that manner. Use one of the old pads instead to push in the piston.

For pushing out wheel studs, a air hammer pushes them out like butter.

A.2.8. Install Caliper back.

A.2.9. Reinstall everything back in reverse. (Important: Make sure you pump brakes before driving off)

A.2.10. Follow proper brake pad bedding procedure.
Tire Rack Info - Different Mfrs
EBC Procedure



B. ROTOR/DISC CHANGE

B.1. REAR ROTOR

B.1.1. Remove calipers and brake pads. Follow the Brake Pad Change procedure. Release FOOT PARKING BRAKE.

B.1.2. Remove Caliper bracket bolt (17mm).

B.1.2. Caliper Bracket Supplement.

What I also do is pop out the pins and rubber jacket from bracket and clean old grease off, then re-lube with the purple permetex.

I usually do this when the brake service is past 50K miles.

B.1.3. Remove Disc/Rotor. I used a rubber mallet to tap it.


B.1.4. Install new rotor, pads and caliper. (Important: Make sure you pump brakes before driving off)


B.2. FRONT ROTOR/DISC

B.2.1. Remove calipers and brake pads. Follow the Brake Pad Change procedure.

B.2.2. Remove Caliper bracket bolt (17mm).

B.2.2. Caliper Bracket Supplement.

What I also do is pop out the pins and rubber jacket from bracket and clean old grease off, then re-lube with the purple permetex.

I usually do this when the brake service is past 50K miles.

B.2.3. Remove Disc/Rotor. Use a rubber mallet to tap if it won’t come off. (sorry no pic, I was running out of daylight)

B.2.4. Install new rotor, pads and caliper. (Important: Make sure you pump brakes before driving off)


C. SS BRAKE LINE INSTALL (brake bleeding is necessary after install. Try to change lines as quick as possible so you don't lose too much brake fluid.)

C.1. REAR BRAKE LINE

C.1.1. Remove brake line bracket bolt (12mm). Remove retaining clip where flare nut is (use screwdriver or plier to pull out).

C.1.2. Loosen brake line bolt and flare nut and snug it back so fluid won’t leak out. Loosen before removing calipers, it will be easier to remove later on. (If not planning on removing the caliper skip to STEP: C.1.3.)

C.1.3. Remove the brake line bolt(caliper side, 14mm).

C.1.4. Unscrew the flare nut (10mm) from the brake line. Use 17mm wrench to hold the other side of the flare nut.


C.1.5. Install new brake line. Use both washers provided (install on the caliper side).




C.2. FRONT BRAKE LINE

C.2.1. Remove brake line bracket bolt (12mm). Remove retaining clip where flare nut is (use screwdriver or plier to pull out).

C.2.2. Loosen brake line bolt and flare nut and snug it back so fluid won’t leak out. Loosen before removing calipers, it will be easier to remove later on. (If not planning on removing the caliper skip to STEP: C.2.3.)

C.2.3. Remove the brake line bolt(caliper side, 14mm).

C.2.4. Unscrew the flare nut (10mm) from the brake line. Use 17mm wrench to hold the other side of the flare nut.


C.2.5. Install new brake line. Use both washers provided on the caliper brake line bolt. (Tip: I installed the new line in the bracket first to keep it from moving then installed the new line. This prevented the line from moving.)



D. BRAKE BLEEDING
You could use different methods or use this guide. I created my own bleeding kit for less than $10 which you could follow. When bleeding you would want to start at the farthest caliper w/c is the passenger rear, then make your way to the caliper closest(front driver) to the brake reservoir.

Another method using mityvac by forum member windeye. Mityvac Procedure.

Parts Needed:

Plastic bottle
Clear Tubing ¼” Inside Diameter(I.D.). Long enough to go to the bottle and be above the bleeder valve.

D.1. Drill a hole on the cap bottle big enough to fit the clear tubing but not too loose so it won’t come off.

D.2. Drill a small vent hole to release air on top of the cap.


D.3. Make sure bottle is clean.

D.4. Submerge clear tubing in brake fluid so it doesn’t suck in air.

D.5. Remove rubber caps on bleeder valve. Pry with flathead screwdriver or plier, should pop off.



D.6. Zip tie clear tubing to bleeder valve so it won’t pop off when pressure is applied from the brakes.


D.7. Loosen bleeder valve(8mm) about ¼ to ½” turn to let fluid out.

D.8. Press the brake pedal 3 or 4 times.

D.9. Check Brake Reservoir and make sure it doesn’t go below minimum. Refill with brake fluid. (DOT3 or DOT4 Brake Fluid)

D.10. Repeat Step: D.8. - Step: D.9. until brake lines are completely out of air.

D.11. Tighten bleeder valve (8mm) when done. Install rubber cap back.




Note: I didn’t have an issue with the big air pocket in the middle as long as air doesn’t go back in the brake line. I think my vent hole was too small and air is not venting out easily. Brake fluid after the valve shown in pic is a good sign that air is not coming back, recheck lines if there’s air right after the bleeder valve because you’ll be introducing air back in the brake system. Clear tubing should be above the bleeder valve so the air would go to the highest part and won’t get suck back in the brake system.

Important Tip: Put tire/wheel chocks a foot or so in front and rear tires while you test your brakes. This will help you stop in case you still have air in your brake system.


BONUS: WHEEL LUG REMOVAL AND INSTALL
I broke my wheel lug when I installed my suspension on my Lexus a couple weeks ago and had to do this. I over tightened the nuts. 76ft lbs is recommended to torque the nuts for the wheels.

OE equivalent, Dorman Wheel Lug. Got it from Advance Auto for less than $2.


• If you break your wheel lug and need to replace it, you could follow this procedure.
• Installing new spacers with longer bolts. If you bought this type of spacer:

Bonus.1. Follow brake pad and rotor change procedure to remove calipers, bracket and rotor.

Bonus.2. I used a ball joint separator to push old wheel lug that I used when I installed new suspension before. Amazon has it for less than $20 and I think Harbor Freight as well. Or, borrow a wheel lug removal tool (pic from autozone website.)



Bonus.3. Install new wheel lug. I used a 23mm ½” socket with an old wheel nut lock that I have to pull the new wheel lug. Or, you could use a washer and nut (12x1.5). Make sure the new lug is flushed to the hub flange.




Note: Pics shown are with rear. Front should be similar. Go enjoy your new wheel lugs and spacers(if you installed them).

 

[aid03]

Installed these on a '14 Camry SE 4cyl. Your part#s may vary so double check.

Brake Lines. I bought them at Amazon and listed as Centric and they sent me StopTech lines. Centric makes Stoptech and I gambled to see what I would get. They were cheaper overall, I'm guessing because it is listed as Centric. The store also gave me a discount code you could try using: "Amazon2016"
Rear PN: 950.44511
Front PN: 950.44015


Brake Pads. I got them from RockAuto.com. They were in the Daily Driver category.
Rear PN:0856756. Front PN: 0856758


Brake Pad Grease -Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube. I got an 8oz bottle from Advance Auto for $12 I think. It should last me forever.

 

[ericlw]

Sounds like you need to invest in a torque wrench if your breaking bolts.

 

[aid03]

Yah I bought bought after that lol

 

[Boris Z]

This will be useful for me in a couple years, subbed.

 

[Esoteric Image]

Nice write up.. Its pretty much exaclty what I do.


What I also do is pop out the pins and rubber jacket from bracket and clean old grease off, then re-lube with the purple permetex.


I usually do this when the brake service is past 50K miles.

 

[aid03]

Thanks, I will add that.

 

[sethr]

I may be wrong, but I have been told that Toyo bleeding is not the way we have always learned. That you actually have to start at the closest brake and go backwards from what we've always been taught.

Something to do with the ABS system they use.

Anybody?

 

[ToyotaWrkr]

Is it necessary to replace any hardware such as clips or springs? I see there are a lot of different brake hardware kits available. I will be using Akebono ACT1222 pads that do not have any hardware components, along with the Centric Premium E-Coated brake rotors.

 

[aid03]

Is it necessary to replace any hardware such as clips or springs? I see there are a lot of different brake hardware kits available. I will be using Akebono ACT1222 pads that do not have any hardware components, along with the Centric Premium E-Coated brake rotors.

My car before, the pads that i've bought for it didn't come with them and never had issues. Just make sure you clean them good and put them back you should be ok

I may be wrong, but I have been told that Toyo bleeding is not the way we have always learned. That you actually have to start at the closest brake and go backwards from what we've always been taught.

Something to do with the ABS system they use.

Anybody?

Yah, i saw something about that in one of the truck forums, maybe tundra, not sure. I didn't have an issue when I started from the farthest caliper, but I also did it twice just to make sure the system didn't have air so maybe that helped too.

but yeah, I've been trying to take it easy on the brakes so I could bed it properly I guess but this bmw decided he wanted to make a right turn in front of me. so yeah, it's safe to say my brakes are working properly lol

captured from my cheap dash cam, and photobucket made the video even worse :grin:

 

[Chuy]

Just looking through the pics, the ones that stand out are A.1.7 and A.2.7. Whenever possible, avoid pressing on the piston in that manner. Use one of the old pads instead to push in the piston.

For pushing out wheel studs, a air hammer pushes them out like butter.

 

[Miranthis]

Concur with Chuy on the piston compress...use the old pad...

Also, I really like using the one-man, vacuum bleeder, especially with the one-way bleeder valves. just make sure you don't run the brake res. dry.

Jeff-in-KC

 

[fogelsong]

@aid03

Thanks very much for the DIY with pictures. It really helped out today.

The only issue I had was with popping off the pins and rubber jacket from the caliper brackets. I didn't want to tear the rubber (which seemed thin) and decided to not go any further. Is this a potential issue? Was I being overly cautious?

 

[madmdx]

Hi everyone, few things I'd like to point out that could improve this service.

First of all, when you change your pads, you should always also replace the grease of the sliding pins with grease that is specifically made for that purpose. Odds are, if you don't, you will end up with a seized slider soon enough.
Second thing, always take a small file or wire brush to the caliper bracket where the metal clips are sitting. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize lubricant made specifically for that purpose. If you don't, youre guaranteed to get your pads seized and a more spongey brake feel and weaker brakes eventually.
Third, I don't suggest using aftermarket brake pads. They are almost always a worse quality brake pad than your OEM (longer stopping distance) and usually are not made to a very precise fit (clicking when braking if the fit is loose, weak brakes if the fit is too tight). For a brand new car, why even cheap out? You're probably saving a whole 20-40$ by using jobber parts, not worth it.
Fourth, if you use OEM pads, you can reuse the clips. Just clean them, make sure they aren't corroded or broken.
Fifth, why are you changing your brake hoses? The oem one's will outlast any aftermarket part you get, and you're inviting trouble to yourself unless you are an experienced mechanic and you know what you're doing. Aftermarket parts are almost always made in china with poor quality control. Do you really think you're going to get some kind of "extra braking power" by going aftermarket? If you need new hoses, get OEM, and make sure you replace the washers too with OEM washers. This isn't your air intake, its your braking system, dont mess with that.
Aftermarket parts aren't always junk, but more often than not they are not nearly the same quality as the OEM.

To anyone who is troubleshooting spongey brakes or a long pedal travel problem: 99% chance you have a seized caliper piston (or starting to seize) and/or a/many seized slider pin/s.

Good write-up OP, great pictures too. Thanks

 

[madmdx]

Hi everyone, few things I'd like to point out that could improve this service.

First of all, when you change your pads, you should always also replace the grease of the sliding pins with grease that is specifically made for that purpose. Odds are, if you don't, you will end up with a seized slider soon enough.
Second thing, always take a small file or wire brush to the caliper bracket where the metal clips are sitting. Apply a thin layer or anti-seize lubricant made specifically for that purpose. If you don't, youre guaranteed to get your pads seized and a more spongey brake feel and weaker brakes eventually.
Third, I don't suggest using aftermarket brake pads. They are almost always a worse quality brake pad than your OEM (longer stopping distance) and usually are not made to a very precise fit (clicking when braking if the fit is loose, weak brakes if the fit is too tight). For a brand new car, why even cheap out? You're probably saving a whole 20-40$ by using jobber parts, not worth it.
Fourth, if you use OEM pads, you can reuse the clips. Just clean them, make sure they aren't corroded or broken.
Fifth, why are you changing your brake hoses? The oem one's will outlast any aftermarket part you get, and you're inviting trouble to yourself unless you are an experienced mechanic and you know what you're doing. Aftermarket parts are almost always made in china with poor quality control. Do you really think you're going to get some kind of "extra braking power" by going aftermarket? If you need new hoses, get OEM, and make sure you replace the washers too with OEM washers. This isn't your air intake, its your braking system, dont mess with that.
Aftermarket parts aren't always junk, but more often than not they are not nearly the same quality as the OEM.

To anyone who is troubleshooting spongey brakes or a long pedal travel problem: 99% chance you have a seized caliper piston (or starting to seize) and/or a/many seized slider pin/s.

Good write-up OP, great pictures too. Thanks

 

[aid03]

I couldn't really tell if the hoses helped a lot or maybe the pads, or bleeding, or just cleaning it since I did everything at once. It does feel a lot better braking now though. I did the whole brakes minus the rotors coz I was bored and wanted to do something with the car. >

 

[molson.david]

^ do the rotors next time. I had slotted EBC Ultimax rotors on my 2012 and combined with Wagner Thermoquiet pads they made a huge difference. My new (new to me) Camry has the stock rotors and I definitely missing EBC's.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Aftermarket pads work great and many are better than OE.

If I replace hoses, its braided always if available. I've replaced plenty of brake hoses with non-OE hoses and never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky and pick reputable brands. Stoptech/centric is the same company and love their braided lines.

You can compress the pistons with your fingers if you open the 'bleeder'. I would never compress a piston and force all that crud brake fluid backwards thru the system up to the master cylinder. Backwash yuck!

Beck Arnley's reputation is that they rebox OE parts from the OE supplier, or source better than OE parts. I can't remember ever getting a bad part from B.A.

I have not had any issues with Toyota brake bleeding. Clockwise/counter/x-cross... starting where ever, always ended up perfectly. I do make sure that I get out at least 8 ounces or more from each bleeder. I'd wager that many don't know how to communicate during a 2-man bleed, or how to use the pressure, vacuum, check-valve, or reverse bleeders correctly. Its as simple as following the directions!
Speed-bleeders work great for the DIY'er.

Follow the brake pad manufacturers' bed in process. I've done plenty of brake jobs where the pads were never bedded in and never had a problem. Normal braking will bed them in with time. I find it not as critical as some claim.

 

[sethr]

I use Raybestos top line rotors and ceramics. They come with all new hardware too. No issues at all.
Ditto on Centric braided..

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk

 

[MSTMTEK]

AND resurface all wheel hubs with this attachment around the wheel studs then switch over to angle die grinder for the middle sections. DO NOT PUT PRESSURE with die grinder just let the tool work. You should see very shinny and no rust on the hubs. For the ring areas use sandpaper.

THEN for anyone in a cold climate areas like Midwest or Northwest...apply white lithium or anti-seized spray around the ring areas on your brand new rotors and open areas between each wheel studs (Do not and I mean DO NOT apply it ON the wheel studs). This will avoid rust around your ring and you won't have to pound on wheels to get them loose or that a**hole Toyota tech who overtorque your wheels so you wouldn't be stranded with flat tire.

Don't be scared to have a parts store to resurface your new rotors....Most of the time new rotors are out of round about by couple mms. Letting you know the cheaper the rotor the higher of the chance they need it done!

Speaking factory pads: You guys are aware that Advics pads make the best pads compared to all the other car manufactures. (Other car makers will have their pads only be 10 MM). And you will never see that thickness on pads with aftermarket. 12-13 MM thickness: which Toyota dealers will never write on your MPI sheet since "we" were trained to. I personally have 140k on my '12 Camry: I have yet to do a brake job on it. I'm still at 4-5 MM. I drive both city and highway 50/50.



The attachment picture is what you should use to resurface wheel hubs with. You attach it to a drill.

You're welcome for the very few secrets that only people who worked in the industry knows....