I'm only using the cathode kit. I removed the stock bulb.
DIY Cold cathode trunk light install (56K warn - 988KB of photos)
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Why not use a SPDT switch instead? That way you can switch between bulb and cathode. The method I depicted in my DIY will not allow the use of a bulb because the terminals for the wires take up some of the space the bulb would normally occupy.
: x 1,000.
Bringing this thread back...where can I get the 1/8" quick disconnect terminals? I got the fuse and holder from Radio Shack but they dont have the terminals. Would Home Depot carry such things? I cant think of another electrical store off the top of my head.
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Just a couple of questions: 1. Now that we are really into the heat of the summer, has anyone had problems with trunk heat effecting the unit (other than the sticky tape) and 2. what light lenth is being used?
Yes. Use ziptie in combination with the stickies.
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What bulb length was found to fit best?
I only used tape in my setup. The car has sat thru SoCal desert summers where the daytime temperature is 120 F or about 51 C. The inside of the car gets even hotter since I got a 1st degree burn on my hand once from the shifter. If that's not extreme enough, I can't help you. I'm not gonna stick a heat gun in my trunk.
The lowest temperature the car has seen with that tape is 15 F or -9 C.
I have since moved and have rather tame summers since 85 F or 29 C is considered hot here.
I used 12" kit with 2 tubes. There are 15" kits but it was already hard enough to find a place to fit the 12" tubes. I don't know if I would go bigger than 12".
The lowest temperature the car has seen with that tape is 15 F or -9 C.
I have since moved and have rather tame summers since 85 F or 29 C is considered hot here.
I used 12" kit with 2 tubes. There are 15" kits but it was already hard enough to find a place to fit the 12" tubes. I don't know if I would go bigger than 12".
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Thanks. I just picked up my 09 model and am still learning the car. Until I came across this thread, I never noticed what a pitiful and embarrassing light was in the trunk. I’ve never toyed with CCFLs before and wanted to make sure that extreme heat wouldn’t melt the bulbs. I’m in Dallas where 105F is not uncommon and who knows what the trunk temperature would be.
Put it this way, temps of at least 110 F were more or less guaranteed during the day where I was.
Completed my 12" cathode trunk light mode. This is my first soldering job. Pics taken from outside the trunk. I used mini zip-ties to keep the wires together and tucked as high as possible so it wouldnt get caught on anything if I have anything big in the trunk. Everything is pretty much hidden and not sticking out. The white wire connected to blue transformer hangs down a little but not a lot.
Those who did this same mod, had one cathode vertical and the other horizontal. Mine are horizontal.
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Homemade 1/8" male spade quick disconnect terminal from my dads coworker whos an electrician (I couldnt find the 1/8" anywhere that is pictured in the DIY thread)
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Let there be light! (closed the trunk lid a little and just stuck my hand and camera in)
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Wiring. I have a 194 led light installed in there as well. Just incase if the cathode goes out and to keep the plugs securely in place.
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Right side (OFF)
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Right side (ON)
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This is how much room I have on the right side from the arm of the trunk..about 1/2 an inch
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Left side (OFF)
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Left side (ON)
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I bought two cathode lights incase I messed up one, I would have a back up. I plan on making an alternative connection using the alternative that I posted in the post before.
If this becomes successful, I'll have a extra set of cathode light for sale (either alternative option using wedge base or the 1/8" connector that I am currently using). I'll have the fuse holder soldered on and I'll include the slow-burn fuse. It will be just plug and play and finding where you want to install the lights. Velcros will be included.
I'll have night pics when it gets dark out.
Those who did this same mod, had one cathode vertical and the other horizontal. Mine are horizontal.
Homemade 1/8" male spade quick disconnect terminal from my dads coworker whos an electrician (I couldnt find the 1/8" anywhere that is pictured in the DIY thread)
Let there be light! (closed the trunk lid a little and just stuck my hand and camera in)
Wiring. I have a 194 led light installed in there as well. Just incase if the cathode goes out and to keep the plugs securely in place.
Right side (OFF)
Right side (ON)
This is how much room I have on the right side from the arm of the trunk..about 1/2 an inch
Left side (OFF)
Left side (ON)
I bought two cathode lights incase I messed up one, I would have a back up. I plan on making an alternative connection using the alternative that I posted in the post before.
If this becomes successful, I'll have a extra set of cathode light for sale (either alternative option using wedge base or the 1/8" connector that I am currently using). I'll have the fuse holder soldered on and I'll include the slow-burn fuse. It will be just plug and play and finding where you want to install the lights. Velcros will be included.
I'll have night pics when it gets dark out.
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Great pics. Please descibe the "192 led light" you are using in the original fixture. Is that a special order part or one readily available at Radio Shack? Did you run the led wires under the blade terminals?
Its 194. Its a regular LED wedge light purchased from superbrightleds.com. The terminals are plugged into the socket as pictured from the OP in the first post of this thread. Same location.
Instead of velcro to hold the lights and transformer in place, I wanted to use zip-ties, but I couldnt find a location that had holes and spot to hold in place and near each other. Took me about 1-2 hours to decide on location and fiddling around with ideas.
I know some people ran the white wires inbetween the metal but for whatever reason, it was a bitch trying to get the wires out of the blue transformer box incase it shorted out or something. So left the wires out incase I needed to swap it. I will probably put the red cable inside the black zip-tie along with the white cable as well.
I drove the car around hitting potholes and bumps (typical in NYC), and the lights worked fine and the connection stayed in place. If I didnt have the LED light in the socket, I dont think it would have fallen off unless the bump was really hard.
I ordered the accessory from autolumination. Once I get it, I'll work on the second cathode and will sell it. It will include 2 12" cathodes, blue transformer box, velcros, fuse holder soldered on and I'll include 2 fuses. It will either be what I have now or the alternative 194 wedge base plug that fits into socket like a normal bulb/led and not the side of the socket.
UPDATE! I guess my location of having the right cathode being on a slant didnt work out too well. Since it was slanted and with the heat and the heat in the trunk, the velcro didnt hold up too well. I ended up zip-tying the light vertical with the metal bar next to the speaker.
Instead of using the prongs in the first post, I got a wedge base plug. I soldered the wires and got another fuse holder from Radio Shack. This is my second time soldering. Enough with my yapping and on to the pictures...
Wires semi-zip-tied like my first cathodes to keep the wires clean
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The wedge plug base
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Wedge plug in the socket. The white thing and red cable in the corner is the fuse holder, blue transformer box and the red/white wires in the background is from the 1st cathode. I didnt take it down yet.
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TADA! It works! On the carpet is the 194 6-LED bulb (same bulb I use for my license plate lights and interior lights)
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Only problem is that now the socket cover doesnt close. I was trying to figure out how to fix this. I can either
1. leave the cover open
2. have the wires come out from the side of the socket (there is a little opening when the cover is closed). Only problem is that the wires bend near the base of the plug. I dont know if this will affect the wiring
3. cut the circle part and "spokes" of the socket cover so that I can fit the wedge plug in. The socket piece is replaceable and costs only $13 from Toyota. (see image below)
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With that said, I now have an extra cathode available for purchase (the first cathode lights I did with the custom 1/8" plugs) (included: all wires/connectors soldered, transformer box, (2) 12" cathode lights, fuse, velcro and possibly 194 6-LED bulb - pictured on carpet of car).
Instead of using the prongs in the first post, I got a wedge base plug. I soldered the wires and got another fuse holder from Radio Shack. This is my second time soldering. Enough with my yapping and on to the pictures...
Wires semi-zip-tied like my first cathodes to keep the wires clean
The wedge plug base
Wedge plug in the socket. The white thing and red cable in the corner is the fuse holder, blue transformer box and the red/white wires in the background is from the 1st cathode. I didnt take it down yet.
TADA! It works! On the carpet is the 194 6-LED bulb (same bulb I use for my license plate lights and interior lights)
Only problem is that now the socket cover doesnt close. I was trying to figure out how to fix this. I can either
1. leave the cover open
2. have the wires come out from the side of the socket (there is a little opening when the cover is closed). Only problem is that the wires bend near the base of the plug. I dont know if this will affect the wiring
3. cut the circle part and "spokes" of the socket cover so that I can fit the wedge plug in. The socket piece is replaceable and costs only $13 from Toyota. (see image below)
With that said, I now have an extra cathode available for purchase (the first cathode lights I did with the custom 1/8" plugs) (included: all wires/connectors soldered, transformer box, (2) 12" cathode lights, fuse, velcro and possibly 194 6-LED bulb - pictured on carpet of car).
I dont need the whole light. I just need the inverter. Also, I can get the same light on eBay for the same price including shipping.
Do It... It will be more cost effective on your part to get the whole unit than pay the same price or more for the inverter alone......which may not match the voltage / current requirements of the existing bulbs. [Get a matched set-up........ the preferred method, and swap them out.] :thumbsup:
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