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if sensor is fouled, you do not need to be gentle, break it off to save the wire harness, boot etc and use socket and breaker bar, etc.
i know this is an old thread but it's the best resource i found for this project. just a word of warning, though. my O2 sensor is stuck so badly that i started to crush the exhaust pipe trying to loosen it. used liquid wrench several times and it seemed to do nothing.

used a pipe wrench with a breaker bar which mangled the face of the nut, and with all the pressure the pipe itself started to give way and dent towards the rear. the bung that the sensor is threaded into is separated from the pipe a little. gave up and took it to a mechanic before i did any more damage, but i'm guessing i'll have to replace the center exhaust pipe now.

hoping there's a way to just cut out that 6" section and weld in a new pipe with a bung, but that seems far-fetched.:headbang:
 
took it to a aaa garage and they couldn't get the old sensor off either. said to go to a muffler shop to have them cut it out and replace that section of the pipe. is that possible since the replacement section would need to be tapped to hold the new sensor?

 
ouch, seems like the thread area is rusted through and now broken. yeah, the muffler shop will have to replace that section.

using tons of PB Blaster and a torch is handy in such situation, but still can't guarantee if it comes loose when it was rusted that bad...
 
I'm glad this thread's still active. About a month ago my 99 Camry (Calif emissions) tripped a P1133 code shortly after an exhaust leak, so it looks like I will have to replace the downstream O2 sensor.

I'm thinking about using a universal sensor to save myself about $35. Is it much of a problem to use a universal sensor in place of an OEM unit? I'm not opposed to electrical work (splicing, soldering, etc) but if it's going to be a lot of work I'll just go with the OEM part.
 
If you've done any soldering, and don't suck at it, you'll do fine. Use heat shrink tubing to seal up the joint against the elements. The Denso sensors that I've bought came with a piece of it.
 
For anyone who is reading this thread, if you want Genuine Toyota OEM parts, I sell to members for 30% off MSRP and only charge a couple of dollars over actual shipping cost for materials and a bit of time. I am a member, and Authorized Toyota Dealer, and supporting Vendor. Don't hesitate to contact me.
 
1997 toyota camry 5sfe 2.2l 4cyl, automatic. (replacement JDM import engine)

got a p2270 and p2271 code up and cleared it two times. it seems its bank1 sensor 2, i have all the service manuals but i cant seem to find the codes just yet, becuase i want to read up on the specs:
getting:
EMPI Part # 806150
FWD; Front Left
EMPI Part # 806149
FWD; Front Right
(getting both of them, just to have them both on hand)
do i need anything else?)

hopefully i can get it off without major issues, but im going to have to find someone to help me, just becuase i hate doing work i dont know anything about.
 
bolts on the seat were 9/16" on my camry 2001.

the job was probably as easy as changing spark plugs for me. To remove the sensor:
1) I used some good amount of PB Blaster and Kroil
2) I waited for 5 min until the lubricants penetrate. Meanwhile, chatted with my fiancee. Then repeated the first step again.
3) I used o2 sensor socket (loaned from autozone) with a +16" torque wrench (yay harbor freight!). That did the job. I didn't use too much muscle for that.
4) After removing o2 sensor, i sprayed the hole with wd-40 little bit. Cleaned the hole for any debris etc...

I didn't use any torch, I didn't warm the exhaust pipe by running engine for a while. Just pb and kroil. entire job took 1 hour.
Now i will cross my fingers and wait if the code comes back.

thanks to main menu for everything.

heh, the post looks like advertisement instead of guidance.
 
They also make a special socket for removing O2 sensors so you don't strip it. It looks like a regular long socket but with one side cut out for the wires.
 
bolts on the seat were 9/16" on my camry 2001.

the job was probably as easy as changing spark plugs for me. To remove the sensor:
1) I used some good amount of PB Blaster and Kroil
2) I waited for 5 min until the lubricants penetrate. Meanwhile, chatted with my fiancee. Then repeated the first step again.
3) I used o2 sensor socket (loaned from autozone) with a +16" torque wrench (yay harbor freight!). That did the job. I didn't use too much muscle for that.
4) After removing o2 sensor, i sprayed the hole with wd-40 little bit. Cleaned the hole for any debris etc...

I didn't use any torch, I didn't warm the exhaust pipe by running engine for a while. Just pb and kroil. entire job took 1 hour.
Now i will cross my fingers and wait if the code comes back.

thanks to main menu for everything.

heh, the post looks like advertisement instead of guidance.
I just replaced my O2 sensors (both of them) this afternoon and didn't need to PB blast or Liquid Wrench anything...and my Camry has over 330000 miles on it with the original O2 sensors! I just got my 22mm long arm wrench, locked my 24mm wrench to the end of it (http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...mbination-wrenches-together-extra-torque.html) and it turned it right off. I probably was probably at least 26 inches away from the sensor so I had a TON of torque on it with minimal pressure actually being applied by yours truly. I was very surprised at how easy it was to remove it. I disconnected the electrical under the seat and threaded the closed end of the wrench up to the O2 sensor. I saw that tip on Wheeler Dealers...I'm very intrigued by car repair and find it all very fascinating. It is a fun hobby and my goal is for my Camry to hit 1,000,000. Good luck on your endeavor!
 
P1155 code 2001 solara

i know it is the air/fuel sensor / heater circuit bank1 sensor2 can anyone tell me where i can find a picture of the exact location of this sensor #2 or step by step instructions for replacing this sensor on a 2001 toyota solara thankyou anyone that could help me
 
i know it is the air/fuel sensor / heater circuit bank1 sensor2 can anyone tell me where i can find a picture of the exact location of this sensor #2 or step by step instructions for replacing this sensor on a 2001 toyota solara thankyou anyone that could help me
Start reading this thread at page 1. There are pictures and detailed instructions showing how to replace it.
 
^ 14mm, not 9/16'' (but it can loosely fit over it too)
It is a 14mm but, a 9/16" is only 0.0113" larger. So, it's essentially the same thing considering manufacturing specs for tools, also why some tool kits that have both metric and SAE sizes will exclude either the 14mm (if it's got a 9/16"), or the 9/16" (if it has the 14mm).

1/2" and 13mm, 5/8" and 16mm are also usually interchangeable.

Just an FYI.
 
It is a 14mm but, a 9/16" is only 0.0113" larger. So, it's essentially the same thing considering manufacturing specs for tools, also why some tool kits that have both metric and SAE sizes will exclude either the 14mm (if it's got a 9/16"), or the 9/16" (if it has the 14mm).

1/2" and 13mm, 5/8" and 16mm are also usually interchangeable.

Just an FYI.

yeah, I never paid attention to SAE sizing, it takes a while to guy like me - raised in metric system country - to understand (and imagine and compare!) those fractions of an inch just by thinking of them ;)

however what brought me to my (almost) wrong conclusion was the fact that my stupid Duralast 3/8'' metric+SAE toolbox contains the duplicate sizes you mentioned ... unless I remember it wrong, been a while since I opened it ... the margin of error in workmanship of wrenches (quality) is another thing that makes them feel the difference even more between the duplicate sizes of SAE vs metric :)
 
They also make a special socket for removing O2 sensors so you don't strip it. It looks like a regular long socket but with one side cut out for the wires.
a good ol 22mm wrench did the trick for me, the sensor socket gave too much when putting pressure on, so it was a waste of 20$. Wrench would have been 8$ if i didnt already have it
 
a good ol 22mm wrench did the trick for me, the sensor socket gave too much when putting pressure on, so it was a waste of 20$. Wrench would have been 8$ if i didnt already have it
A 7/8" wrench works as well, for the metric challenged out there. I decided to be creative and sawed a slot in one of my 7/8" wrenches to fit over the wire, because the special super duper o2 wrench that I bought didn't fit the o2 sensor.

Then I found out that my hot shot modification didn't work either. The gap caused the wrench to open up, and to round off the o2 sensor. And wouldn't you know it, the 7/8" wrench without any modifications slips over the end of the o2 wire connector and works fine. So now I have a 7/8" wrench with the end cut out of it, that's pretty much useless. :facepalm:

YMMV on whether the connector will slip through the box end of a 7/8" wrench, but every o2 I've tried it on, works.

 
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